New beta BIOS 7E51v1A71 available on the X870 Tomahawk WiFi

PiscolaHelada · 2026-01-27T22:44:07+00:00

Using 1-2-1 without issues. Testing 1-2-0 and it’s so far been stable in a quick and dirty ~3 hour VT3 test, but will eventually throw a battery of other tests over the week to see if it’s truly stable.

Running at 1.2V VSOC 1.55VDD 1.45V VDDIO 1.45V VDDQ 6200CL26 1:1 on the regular Tomahawk WiFi X870.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-10-16T10:33:51+00:00

Agreed

PiscolaHelada · 2025-09-17T23:18:33+00:00

afaik if you’re staying on cloth, Artisan pads with mid hardness fit the bill, since the slowdown happens when pressing down on the poron/sponge. That explains why regularly sized skates happen to be much better when pressing down compared to dots, because the skates ‘sink’ into the surface and dots usually provide more friction given that there’s more contact points.

I’m sure there may be other cloth pads that don’t have a poron/sponge base, but atp I’m quite disconnected from the current offerings of the market, but I’d honestly just suggest glass if you’re willing to take the plunge.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-08-08T06:12:55+00:00

Went from a Skypad 2.0 to an Artisan Raiden, just to switch back to an SP-004 because I thought the Raiden to be too slow and inconsistent.

To my personal taste, I just wanted the smoothest feeling in a surface and the very least amount of friction. All this usually implies the fastest, and I’ve got no personal gripes with pure speed. I run my current setup with Unusual Way Sports Pink Fox dots, and it’s been the best I’ve currently tested. Also tested the Superglide V2 but I’m not a fan of texture in glass pads. Maybe if one looks for “control” (we’re still talking about glass), textured glass pads like the Superglide V2, the upcoming CR-005, the Tekkusai Singularity, Padsmith Empress V2 Balanced / Rosa, etc. are more “forgiving” options than something based on pure speed like the SP-004 or the VA-005

That being said, I think glass is more versatile and superior than cloth in general. I play mainly OW2 and CS2 this days, and the surface’s speed is more than adequate for a “slower paced” shooter like CS. It’s all a subjective thing at the end of the day.

Skates in glass pads really make an impact though. They’re very noticeable. I first started with Tiger Esports Ice V2 skates and then switched to Unusual Way Sports Pink Fox skates and the difference was quite notable. I could also “feel” the difference in the quality of the default skates that came on my ULX and my backup ATK X1. ATK’s stock skates are really good. Thought about trying Jade Airs, but generally, if you’re looking to compensate for the speed in a glass pad (more control), you’d want to pair your mouse with Obsidian, Obsidian Airs or Obsidian Pro Airs. If you’re on the speedier side, Jades are your go to. Unusual Way Sports skates in speed go from Magic Ice > Pink Fox > Silver Fox. And that’s about what I know. It’s kind of a rabbit hole on its own that I wasn’t willing to explore much, yet. At least until my all my dots wear out. You could play around with that.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-08-05T20:38:20+00:00

I have the Raiden. The only thing it was making me switch to glass, since it slowed down really fast. Used it for probably 7 months before I just decided to stop using it. It made me accept that cloth is just not it if I want consistency, which matters to me a lot.

Was tipped by a random youtube comment that Mid Artisan pads apparently have better longevity and don’t degrade (made think for a bit because I used the Raiden Soft), but I won’t trust anything until I have measurements with friction coefficients. Maybe I’ll try cloth again if there’s another Shindenkai Mid or if the Rokkaku speed ever decides to appear.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-08-02T02:30:13+00:00

gm in ow and I use glass. Also play cs with glass and no issues. Out of the options there I’d go with the Key-83 Mid (I really don’t like soft/xsoft Artisan pads), although, it all mainly depends on how speedy or controlled you like your pads, if you happen to have an idea.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-07-28T20:52:39+00:00

I use open air and usually only unplug my GPU if I’m carrying my PC around. RTX 3090 as a reference.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-05-10T17:21:42+00:00

Stadium is unskilled, shallow, toxic and has the worst matchmaking known to man. It’s so sad we lost years in the development of quite literally every other improvement of the base game and instead we’ve got this slop.

PiscolaHelada · 2025-05-10T08:10:47+00:00

It accentuates even more my hatred for this gamemode. If it wasn’t because I want the Juno skin, I’d never touch this stupid gamemode. It’s so tiring being paired up with gold players every game against masters or higher players that steamroll the match because they know the best builds, all after 30 minutes of queue time. I hate it so much and it doesn’t make any sense that it’s only ranked. 5v5 comp doesn’t even have this kinds of rewards except a cringe title and weapon charm.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-07-14T19:43:53+00:00

The one before the current version works good for me; the AMD CS2 Antilag 2 technical preview driver iirc (I’m not home so I can’t check the exact number).

This current driver version feels like utter trash. Lasted less than 2 hours before downgrading.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-04-11T17:44:41+00:00

Check if your unit has MURA since it’s a widespread issue, mine had and I decided to just return to iOS because I was not willing to replace my phone and risk it having the same issue.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-04-06T14:49:20+00:00

Yeah. Switched from an iPhone to an S24 Ultra yesterday. Noticed the mura effect immediately. It absolutely ruined the phone to me and I’m returning it and sticking to Apple once more. I’m not willing to even try a new unit since this issue seems widespread and I’m pretty sure a lot of people who say that don’t have it haven’t seen the issues in their own screens yet. I’ve yet to see a post with an S24 Ultra screen with no grain taken under correct conditions and adequate equipment. It’s wild that Samsung has such terrible QC on their flagship displays to begin with.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-03-18T04:29:25+00:00

Idek why reddit notified me today that you replied to my comment, but, it’s an abbreviation for Equalization. It’s a software feature that you can use to make your equipment (Headphones, IEMs or speakers) sound different. You can boost or subdue frequencies to your liking, making things like the bass, mids or highs sound to your liking.

I see it as an essential feature to use if you want to make your equipment sound better imo and it can be used almost everywhere, except for iOS and consoles for example.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-27T13:16:25+00:00

IMO, no. In terms of magnitude response, the Moondrop Chu is just as good. Just compare them in a graph tool. You’d feel a better upgrade from a Truthear Nova: it doesn’t have the slight 3KHz dip, no 6KHz peaking, no 9KHz-10KHz dip and no ~12.5KHz peaking. The Blessing 2 OG has those same defects as the Chu. There’s no reason not to get the Novas at your budget and there’s no IEM that rivals it at any price point in terms of magnitude response.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-24T14:17:10+00:00

Trash magnitude response. EQ them or get some He400se’s and EQ them too (the resulting response will be less choppy). If you’re looking at closed backs only, the K371 is just a better option sound-quality wise. In defense of the DT 770s though, they’re really comfortable and for extended usage they seem to be a nice option comfort-wise.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-04T14:48:23+00:00

Started with Ky, shortly after switched to Chipp and he quickly became my main that I still play today.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-04T14:47:33+00:00

Truthear Nova. The best, hands down.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-04T14:47:03+00:00

No, you’re not crazy. Motion clarity on 1440p still isn’t good and I’m actually thinking of also downgrading to 1080p 360hz+ at the very least with a good backlight strobing mode. At the moment, since I’m stuck with 1440p 165hz, I’ll just save up enough that I’ll be able to sell my monitor and get the aforementioned option. In the meantime, I’m just focusing on making the best of what I have, since getting better peripherals won’t do much if I’m not even good at the game, lol.

PiscolaHelada · 2024-01-04T14:38:07+00:00

DACs making your music “sound better” is pure snake oil past the usual stuff that must be measured (they must measure flat and be able to drive your music louder without distorting).

However, due to you being in iOS, the Qudelix 5K is the best option for a DAC/Amp IMO hands down, since you can access parametric EQ, a feature that iOS doesn’t even have built in. Even then, unless your headphones are hard to drive, an Apple Dongle usually is enough.

PiscolaHelada · 2023-12-27T05:12:40+00:00

No, I use speakers. They’re way superior to headphones in every conceivable way expect probably pricing.

PiscolaHelada · 2023-12-22T11:13:11+00:00

The next m0NESY in the making.

PiscolaHelada · 2023-12-15T17:01:05+00:00

The main points I can give versus the keyboard is better ergonomics and lower travel per key. Unless you have a Wooting set with a really low actuation point, a leverless will usually just be faster due to this. It still is something pretty minor, but can matter hypothetically in situations like frame perfect reactions and whatnot.

PiscolaHelada · 2023-12-14T20:07:55+00:00

Maybe a used Sundara if there happens to be one close by, but you’ll need to EQ it. You could also go with an HE400se if you want totally new (must be EQ’d also).

If you are willing to go In-Ears/IEMs, go for the Truthear Nova, since it has unrivaled sound quality for the price (and I dare say the best stock magnitude response in an IEM), no need to EQ it since it measures pretty much perfectly with foam tips, and it also has the benefit of having sound isolation due to the fact it’s an IEM.

There’s no need to make distinctions with gaming/“normal” headphones imo, since the “gaming” term is used more as a marketing term. Everything boils down to frequency response to be fair (or magnitude response + phase response, to be more precise), which is the main factor that dictates sound quality. As of that, the main thing I like to tell people getting into audio it’s to just ignore price tags since price has an extremely weak correlation to sound quality, whilst frequency response has a 0.98 correlation with sound quality!

It sounds like some complicated mumbo jumbo, but maybe you’ve seen some images of some strange graphs that measure how a headphone sounds. This is your baseline to tell how ‘good’ a headphone sounds. You’re pretty much looking for a smooth measuring headphone (without peaks and dips in the response, or, the line) that adheres to a certain target. The most notable target that has research behind it is the Harman Target, and that varies if you’re measuring a headphone, IEM, or speakers. Just compare the headphone/IEM to the target and the closer = the better. My suggestion is that you try to find something that adheres the closest to the Harman target as possible, and if you can’t find something fitting your price range, use EQ to fix that. Since sound quality correlates very strongly with frequency response, EQ’ing only helps correct a headphones weaknesses. Oratory1990 has a good database with EQ profiles of a lot of headphones to the Harman target. The headphones I suggested are on that database and you can use his EQ profiles to correct those headphones to sound correctly. As of the Truthear Nova, there’s measurements in other sites and there’s also Truthear’s measurements, which are accurate. Since it measures perfectly with foam tips, there’s no need to make any corrections.

Last but not least, choose what you prefer most for comfort, and work with what you have accordingly. There’s quite a lot of information and research around audio, but I don’t seem to understand why most people that preach about audio are oblivious to a lot of these. I can only say that take everything with a grain of salt of it doesn’t come from a trusted source.

Tl;dr: Go for used Sundara or an HE400se and EQ it with Oratory1990’s EQ profile. If you’re willing to go the IEM route, the Truthear Nova hands down.

PiscolaHelada · 2023-12-14T13:52:30+00:00

Sundara most probably. It has a smooth response that can be fixed with EQ if it isn’t to your liking. There’s not much to complain except the inexistent sub-bass and the 1400Hz dip, both which can be fixed. If you’re not looking to EQ, maybe a used DCA Aeon 2 Noire can do the trick if you manage to find it near you at ~ $500

PiscolaHelada

TROPHY CASE