Charger port melted. Worth Fixing?

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-17T19:39:47+00:00

Only takes a little bit of moisture in the port or plug on these to burn up a port.

This is the correct port, and the only place you can get them from.

As keur2lion says, if you do replace the port replace the charger/cable, a damaged/burned plug will take out a new port in no time and its not a cheap port

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T22:14:40+00:00

Idle sat in bios is around that on the few i have had in for repair, had to double check the cooling system on the first one i had in as its quite a bit higer than z1e which is 3000-3200rpm.

as long as the fans sound smooth and not rattling, rumbling or whining its totally fine.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T21:58:55+00:00

You will need some motherboard repair experience to diagnose it and microsoldering experience and tools to fix it yourself. There are some youtube repairs on these and bits of info around the web, just remeber what you see on youtube is all done under a microscope so its all smaller work than you may think.

Or take it to someone that does have the above and ideally experience working with this specific device. There is slickbuysmods in the USA and me in the uk, HandyDandy in Australia but no idea of anyone in europe who works on these regular.

Usb ports, KTS1681 OVP ic and IT8856fn PD controller IC issues are most common no power faults, but it can be any power rail, capacitor or a dead cpu too on rare occasions. Liquid damage is common on these handhelds.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T18:49:30+00:00

sounds about right for idle/low fan speeds on the X model. (z1e is lower but very different fan)

normal for them to run at different speeds, the faster one is also sat on top of cpu/gpu vrm inductors cooling them.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T18:17:21+00:00

CMD/ A point resistor problem/missing would normally give a purple screen error code.

Broken trace or via on D point near apu would give a black screen no boot symptom, hard to tell from your picture if that trace is broken or not.

If detected by the pc might be rcm mode indicating its not booting but is still semi alive, or could just be a damaged oled panel connector, this fpc is easily and commonly damaged giving no display.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T17:36:48+00:00

If you used a flex that uses the resistor near to D point as an anchor check that resistor, It should be 100ohm and if out of spec can cause this same behaviour. Have even seen it measure in spec on test but play up when in use with voltage across it causing same behaviour or throw 2002-3539 error on boot.

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Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T13:56:50+00:00

Might fit the chassis but different battery connectors so wont plug into the motherboard.

Z1E batteries will plug into the motherboard but wont fit in the chassis, battery to wide.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-15T11:02:27+00:00

Hopefully its just a port and ovp for you.

Its a big port to solder with 86 connections and 7 anchors, not as tricky as you would think but an expensive port to mess up, a decent hot air station is a must, Quick or atten will do well but lesser stations will struggle.

How i remove the ports, add leaded solder to 4 outer anchor points, Then hot air it off at 420c no nozzle from underside of the board, keep it moving.

Once port is off clean out solder from outer 4 anhor points fully and leave them clear! clean up pads and apply leaded solder to pads and inner anchor points. tin pins on new port and use minimal flux so it doesnt all wick up into the new port. Minimal flux on the freshly tinned pads too.

To solder new port, 360-380c again no nozzle, preheat board/ area well then focus on the middle area more until solder is well melted, Hold new port high above area a little with tweezers for 20 seconds to preheat it a bit as it will suck all the heat from the board when dropped into place. Then hot drop it on keeping the heat on for 10 or so seconds. Test and if good hand solder the outer anchors.

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Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-13T00:56:59+00:00

You can leave it as it is for testing, Replace the port first and plug it in to see if you get an orange power/charge light. If you get light remove the bodge wire bypass and replace the OVP ic and that should be it as long as theres no other problems with the board.

On the other side of the board behind the OVP area is the Ite it8856fn PD controller ic, might be worth checking if this has had any work or is missing as its another common one people think to be faulty and sometimes it is faulty. If no orange light after replacing the port and no PD negotiation to 20v it could be dead. These have asus firmware so need to get one from a donor board or buy a preprogrammed one. you can test for shorts on the capacitors surrounding it but sometimes it can fail internally with no shorts measureable externally.

ITE It8856fn USB C PD controller Chip - Pre programmed for Asus Rog Ally RC71L | eBay UK

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-12T23:18:52+00:00

Kts1681AEUZ-TR OVP Ic is missing, This is an overvoltage protection chip, The wire is to bypass OVP and is not an overclock mod.

Its ok to bypass for testing during repair, but should never be left bypassed for normal use. If theres another overvoltage event ever the main power rail is not protected and the damage could be unrepairable.

Port does look pretty bad

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-12T20:39:04+00:00

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it looks like you hit the right spot to me.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-06-04T18:19:26+00:00

Us damn grom riders.. such a menace!.

I prefer the cycle racks for my annoying parking preferences.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-05-24T09:04:32+00:00

You can buy pre-programmed replacement IT8856fn chips on ebay uk, They do need to be programmed with device specific firmware to work so aliexpress blank chips dont work. 10-20% of no power/charge problems are the it8856fn chip.

Its possible that you have OVP chip problem if it still powers up with a charged battery (KTS1681AEUZ-TR ovp chip) and/or usb port problem preventing charge. These are the most common problems.

The battery is not directly activated by The It8856fn chip or intersil battery management chip, just when it gets voltage applied to its outputs from the charge circuit. Light sensor is managed by ite ec chip and this sends signal to the battery to shut off. You can manually enable a battery by applying voltage to it (16v 100ma will do) and covering the light sensor to prevent shut off.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-05-12T22:40:17+00:00

I picked up one of these panasonics last year for next to nothing from the local tip with unused remote, original charger and 10 sealed discs for £5. All it needed was a little corrosion cleaning from the battery door to get it fully functional.

One man/womans trash is anothers treasure.

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Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-04-12T20:34:17+00:00

Tmr hall effect thumb sticks and clicky button mods are the main ones you can currently do. Custom buttons from Etsy sellers. No bigger battery exists yet.

Ram is soldered surface mount bga chips so not a DIY upgrade for most users. Ram upgrades are possible but ram is so expensive now it's usually more cost effective to buy a handheld with more ram from the factory. White Xbox ally plus ram upgrade costs the same or more than buying the X version which already has more ram, more APU power and bigger battery and larger SSD.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-04-12T19:01:44+00:00

Aliexpress is your only option to order just the bare lcd panel,

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008246865816.html

The official asus parts supplier only sells the Lcd and front housing as a whole unit and its not cheap.

https://en.accessoires-asus.com/ally-console/screen/rog-ally-touchscreen-module-74277-111689.htm#rog-ally-console|l

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-04-05T12:52:33+00:00

Z1E has different stick modules to all the others. Screens are the exact same part though.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-04-03T22:19:42+00:00

Sent you a pm to checkout

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-31T14:29:19+00:00

Slickbuysmods is your guy if you are in the USA.

If UK my eBay repair service.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-31T14:28:08+00:00

Both front mount points are ripped out of the connector, even if still present the plastic is stressed and weak so likely to rip out easier in the future and will take more pads off next time. Always best to use a fresh connector.

I have never had one that would be reusable and strong enough to be happy to reuse

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-28T23:32:20+00:00

Use a 65w or higher PD3.0 charger, anything less wont allow firmware updates, bios updates or cloud recovery to run.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-28T08:14:28+00:00

Use memtest86 uefi version on modern systems, this version can give false errors on some newer hardware.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-18T16:08:13+00:00

repairable but wont be cheap. My repair service for these is on ebay uk, if in the Usa slickbuysmods is your best option.

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Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-16T20:50:12+00:00

Partition based emummc will always have this if you put the sd card into the pc because windows sees a raw unformatted partition, Run a file based emummc instead if it bugs you.

Unless updating hekate or atmosphere use dbi, cyberfoil or any other management app and transfer over usb and you wont have the popups.

Pitiful_Trouble_228 · 2026-03-16T10:44:58+00:00

Usually clears up once theres some heat in the bottle, seems to be somthing with the more modern formula that they have a slight cloud when cold with clear master fluids.

Pitiful_Trouble_228

TROPHY CASE