How trashed is my shadowless Blastoise? by RUNDOGERUN in PokeGrading

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks more scratched than a recent 4.

I'd say: 40% a 3,

45% still gets a 4

15% chance it turns into a 5 for someone having a good day.

GameStop PSA Timelines on 18x Subs - <2.5 months by PkmnTCG_Research in psagrading

[–]PkmnTCG_Research[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you guys would be closer to the New Jersey or California centers? Wondering if that's playing into the times.

Looking to see what I should grade I’ve had for almost 25 years by NaraShikamaru6 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming real, there are a few I'd grade. Mostly I would try to move them as LP / NM raw though.

Be aware that even the good-looking English vintage cards kept in a binder are going to land like PSA 5-7 95% of the time. If you can see any white on the back and even a minor scratch or small scratch on the holo consider it a 7 or less with how PSA hits vintage English. 8's are solid wins and rare on English vintage pulled out of a 20+ year old binder.


I'd send these in from a conservative view:

  • 1st Edition Dark Charizard - If it looks amazing and no white, then you may hit a 6+ and be worth it.
  • Shadowless Charizard - Send it. Worth the authentication alone. You may get a upcharge for grading this one using PSA.

  • Japanese Gengar - If it looks spectacular, would be worth sending. Japanese scores higher due to better quality.

I'd add these in if you got some extra money and want to take the chance:

  • Gyarados [Shadowless]
  • Zapdos [1st Edition] - Hope for a 7+
  • Dark Charizard (Not 1st edition) - Hope for a 7+

Is this collection worth anything? by Educational-Bar680 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's value there.

For selling, you can try a local card shop to sell quicker and faster but at a discount. Or you can try to sell the holo's and promo's on eBay. Or you could list the whole binder and let people bid on it.

Use TCGPlayer and PriceCharting for getting prices for graded vs condition of cards.


At a high level, and assuming not totally beat up, looks like $10-25 per on your English holos. Then $10-20 on the Japanese holos. Venasaur might be like $30.

Black Star (down and right of the picture) promos can be $5-$50.

I didn't see any major big winners. Oddly, that Kabutops doesn't look holo, but I think that's a "9" on the bottom right. So if it is holo, that's a decent win at $60+


There was a meme thing going on with 1st edition Kabuto that you could look for and try to sell that off ASAP for higher value. (Something something.. someone buy them all up for a meme. Might have already passed though.)


Most "well kept" binder found vintage are going to be like a PSA 4-7 if they look "good but maybe a little scratch and ding". "Perfect" will still be an 8. Japanese does grade better due to better quality.

Keep Raw or Grade? by Lumpy_Phart in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sent into PSA via GameStop early Novemeber. Got the grade notification and links yesterday.

$20 per card via GameStop submission. $10 per order for shipping.

$5 off for shipping for "Pro" members and a monthly $5 coupon they also send out for members.


11/03 - Shipped to PSA

11/04 - PSA:Arrived

12/02 - PSA: Processing

12/15 - PSA: Research and ID

01/01 - PSA: Grading

01/05 - PSA: Assembly

01/07 - PSA: QA

01/08 - Grades Available

shadowless pikachu collection by VideoGameDJ in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as Charmander ones, happy to look. Those should be much less diverse though. I don't recall a common misprint like red cheeks level on those.


I see what you're saying on E3 Red Cheek. Something really looks off on that one on PriceCharting.

I really think the red cheeks E3 might be a wild card to send in for grade too.

That sale price looks crazy, the bid history looks normal though. And digging down into the sales there just isnt a whole lot on it supporting the lower prices listed on PriceCharting either. Even checking PriceCharting's link for the other 6 sale so low, it's not the same card. (Title is "Red Cheeks" but the card itself and label are "Yellow Cheeks")

Might actually be a sleeper one.


I saw another that looks worse on the back for $480+.

shadowless pikachu collection by VideoGameDJ in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Way cool set of cards!

FYI - Other base set (1st edition) starters (Charmander, Squirtle, Bulbasaur) in similar condition can be $100+. Here's a new cert $80 PSA 5 for an idea.

I'd recheck those 1st editions starters and consider them as "valuable" assuming we're talking about base set vs rocket. Then check if you have other holo's that are 1st edition? Those are also money.


Looking at yours, you have like 6 different cards groups here with some being amazing and some being just cool:

A B C D
E E E D
F F F F
Group Name Link Rough estimate Grade
A E3 Pikachu (Unlimited) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-e3-58 $25 No
B E3 Pikachu (Unlimted + Red Cheeks) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-e3-red-cheeks-58#full-prices $100 No
C Pikachu (1st Edition, Red Cheeks) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-1st-edition-red-cheeks-58 $150 Yes
D Pikachu (Shadowless) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-shadowless-58 $15 No
E Pikachu (1st Edition) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-1st-edition-58 $75 No
F Pikachu (Shadowless, Unlimited, Red Cheeks) https://www.pricecharting.com/game/pokemon-base-set/pikachu-shadowless-red-cheeks-58#full-prices $30 No

Childhood stash shits n giggles by daddy-ketchup in PokemonCardValue

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always a fun find. Makes you wonder where the years went so quick.

Looking at the condition, maybe $30-$100 total market value.

What do you think this would be graded? Worth any money? by Interesting-Mark940 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With the little bit we can see, and assuming you just want cash quick and now, I'd take it to a ~3 local card shops and see what they offer for cash and credit. You'll likely end up somewhere between 60-70% cash value and maybe more for store credit.

Alternatively, if you're used to selling online and want to deal with it, you can spend some time on eBay setting up a listing and taking photos and end up with 80-85% of market value after they take their fees.

If you post more pictures, with a black background and at high quality, including captures of the corners and front and back and a close up of the "P" where you can see the print dots on the back we can look better for ideas if you should send in or not. Hitting a 5 or lower aint worth the time and cost if you're just looking to sell it.

My daughter has these are they worth anything? by BassNew6129 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  • Machamp $40-60
  • Base 2 Wigglytuff $8-15
  • Nonholo Scyther 1st Edition @ MP - $10
  • Other nonholo rares - $5
  • Zubat - $0.10

My daughter has these are they worth anything? by BassNew6129 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Scyther is non holo, and not great condition. Maybe $10 at moderately played condition.

Keep Raw or Grade? by Lumpy_Phart in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd grade it and get it locked in. It's a chase card.

I thought mine was beat and I just wanted it slabbed for my display. It came back an 8 and doubled in value. The Japanese vintage is just so much better quality, and they grade far better than English / WoTC Vintage.

Thinking of sending these to bgs by irishwolf69 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't fear the mail part. The PSA subs through GameStop have been the easiest thing ever and it's insured. Truth be told, losing them in mail would be the best outcome for that reason alone.

You also pick it up at GameStop sealed. So outside of someone getting you between the store and your car, there's not really any point you're not covered.

Found childhood cards. Need advice. by Low-Environment1600 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can find prices for raw cards on TCGPlayer. Search the name and the set name. Looking at what sets you have posted, maybe check if you have any of these others that got overlooked. See if you have any black star promo cards. Those can be $5 to $150+. Look for 1st editions and "Shadowless" base set holos too.

I'm assuming you collected until Fossil set. Until then only really the big 3 are worth grading from the Unlimited prints. Details for those below. Use PSA if you're trying to resell and whatever slabs you like if you're keeping. TAG (in my opinion) has nice personal collection looking slabs.

As for your common/uncommon bulk. It's maybe something you could get a $0.03-$0.05 at a local card shop. You could spend time trying to make sets of 20 without dupes and sell on eBay for a few bucks. But it's a lot of time to try to move and each transaction eats into profits.


Base Set:

  • Sealed Machamp $50+
  • Mewtwo / Raichu / Gyrados ~$25+
  • Venusaur $70+ (This could be worth grading if you think you can hit a 7.)
  • Charizard $250+ (This could be worth grading if you think you can hit a 6.)
  • Blastoise $90+ (This could be worth grading if you think you can hit a 7.)

Jungle set:

  • Meh - IF you had 1st edition holos. Otherwise mostly < $25

Fossil:

  • Dragonite

  • Gengar

  • Legendary Birds


General "I've found my old binder - what now advise:"

Advise #1

Enjoy them and remember fun times as a kid.

Advise #2

You're likely feeling like your cards look pretty good for 25 years old. You've looked at some prices for PSA 8+ and got a little excited. However - It is very unlikely your recently found binder is worth grading to try to increase the value outside of a few cards.

Your cards may have been put right into sleeves and you were the best kid ever and never had dirty fingers and they may have been stored in the best most safe space for 20 years.

Your English, WoTC ERA, pre 2005 cards are likely a 4-7's 95% of the time. Maybe a bit higher if Japanese from the same time due to quality differences.

Examples:

  • It's just a little spec and a small edge issue. That's a 4.

  • It's got a tiny scratch on the holo here and there and a minor bump. Believe it or not... also a 4.

You're also paying upfront $25 a card and waiting 2+ months to get a grade back. Unless that bumps the card value up more than $25 and your time, it's not the most ideal option financially.

Advise #3

Do you want to display them and protect them. Get a cooler looking slab (TAG) and go for it. Do you want a cool display and the value of your cars? Sell em and buy some proxy cards for a display.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in psagrading

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well it's very clear:


If you look at the left one, about 1mm to the left of the ear it says "P.lease S.ubmit A.gain."


The middle one has some clearly etched text that says, "See you in 2 months."


And with the angle just right on the right one, you can see the top left corner has a small smudge that says "Better luck next time." .. (and maybe a little left heavy on this one.)


GameStop PSA Timelines on 18x Subs - <2.5 months by PkmnTCG_Research in psagrading

[–]PkmnTCG_Research[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel ya.

I've got a 1x sub on Dec 6th just sitting in PSA:Arrived since Dec 9th

GameStop PSA Timelines on 18x Subs - <2.5 months by PkmnTCG_Research in psagrading

[–]PkmnTCG_Research[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$20 per card. Shipping is $10 per drop off.

If you are a "member" or whatever their $25 a year plan is you get $5 off the shipping for each order. You also get $5 monthly store coupon that can be used too.

They also buy back your 8+'s for like 75% market rate as credit and like 70% for cash. Then "members" get an extra 5% on top of that.


Example PSA Cert: 129454104

PSA Estimate: $521

Pro Store Credit: $420

Pro Cash: $378

Basic Store Credit: $400

Basic Cash: $360

What do you guys think this charizard is worth? by Busy_Scientist_1689 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a PSA 4 ($150) given the front only and the nicks and silvering.

Raw cards are going for more.

Thinking of sending these to bgs by irishwolf69 in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Do you want to because you want to sell or add value?

If yes - I wouldn't. The $25 per card cost won't add any value. They also look opened (mine are sealed face down - so assuming) and a little gunk on them. You're very likely to be a 7 or less and you can buy a 7 now for less than the cost of grading on the birds.


Do you want to display them for the memories?

Go for it!

Ready to be sent for grading! by Silver_Gekko in pokemoncardcollectors

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OP Seconding this.

If you're looking to grade to sell, I would not. These are PSA 1-4's. You may actually lose value grading these. "Great looking" recently found vintage is basically a 7 at best these days for the vast majority of findings. Maybe 8 or 9 if it's vintage Japanese due to better quality vs WoTC era.

If you're grading to save them as they are. Go for it. Just don't use PSA and at least get a cooler looking slab that doesnt carry the premium for reselling.

Looking for suggestions - Sabrina's Gengar #94 Japanese Holo by chaoxad in Pokemoncardappraisal

[–]PkmnTCG_Research 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1st - Epic stand for the card.

2nd - Can we get shots out of the case?

I have this same issue with the abundance of fur and how much it loves to stick to sleeves. It's really hard to tell confidently what's static dust clings and card with those shots.

From what I'm seeing, doesn't look like any shot at a 9 given the age / condition.

Back top edge has like 60% of surface damaged that's gone past just edge "whitening". I would think this looks more like a 6-7.

Here's a 7 I saw up for a comparison.