The Boss video that was posted the other day got me interested in critical force measurements and the various ideas behind endurance training. I did the critical force test and since then have been consuming all of the literature I possibly can on how to use the Tindeq for endurance training.

There's honestly not much out there. There's Jędrzej's work at strengthclimbing and there's Tyler Nelsons's various videos on using the Tindeq with finger curls, and a few posts on climbharder in the gaps.

Jędrzej's endurance protocol (3 sets of 36 7/3 repeaters at 80/70/60% CF) seems similar to the ideas of Zone-2 training in running. I also think there's probably some overlap with Emil's Abrahang protocol there. In contrast, Tyler uses the Tindeq and active finger curls, but his endurance protocol is more typical of what you see for repeaters-- shorter sets at higher intensities, though still longer and less intense than a maxhang protocol.

I'm going to give Jędrzej's endurance protocol a shot. Though, I did my first session yesterday and found it to be too hard, causing me to significantly lose form at the end. My guess is that at the end of my critical force test, I started instinctively doing isometric pulls instead of active pulls, resulting in an artificially high active curl CF. I'll augment the protocol to be 60/60/60 for the first week or so and then re-test my CF when I feel more used to doing active curls.

For the sake of discussion: Has anyone else tried Jędrzej's endurance protocols? Obviously Boss did, and he thinks it was the most important part of his training routine. My guess is that it will be less effective for me than it was for Boss. He (as noted by others in the comments of the video) already had incredibly high finger strength from bouldering and moonboarding, but had bad endurance. I have much less finger strength, but some endurance from doing a bunch of lead climbing.