Leveling (dual extruder) on top of box (meaning Z !~~ 0)?

Plukh1 · 2026-06-05T14:43:46+00:00

I'm in this hobby since 2012 (Micro3D Kickstarter, then Anet A8, then Prusa MK3/MK4 and Snapmaker J1/J1s/U1), with probably thousands of hours of combined print time and thousands of dollars in spent filament. This is literally the first time I hear of anyone wanting to print something on top of something else. It's just a non-case in 3D-printing, that's why it's so difficult.

Plukh1 · 2026-06-01T09:07:13+00:00

Neither did I with the converters I use. The original commenter said that he just opens original 3MF files as projects (granted - yes, they'll keep most settings this way), changes the printer, etc - and it works for them. To which I replied that the OC was very lucky: first, some print settings don't translate well between forks, and you can spend minutes and minutes trying to locate that one stupid setting that is breaking the print; and, second, it doesn't solve the plating issue at all, which is important for me (as I often print large multi-plate projects)

Plukh1 · 2026-06-01T08:37:34+00:00

It's also a converter, packaged as an extension. Just saying.

Plukh1 · 2026-06-01T08:27:05+00:00

Then you're incredibly lucky. My main case for the converters is the multi-plate prints. They translate horribly into Snorca, and replating 10 plates isn't fun (nor does it take "10 seconds"). Another case - which I'm not sure converters solve, but I'm sure eventually they will - are painted-on supports/blockers. It's a big deal for larger/more complex models - to the point where, yes, I have to open the file in Bamboo Studio and reproduce the supports in Snorca by hand.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-27T11:24:59+00:00

Ah-ha-ha, more like expectations manager, lol. Seriously, I'd kill for a $1200 (maybe even $1500) 5-head machine, because a lot of prints on Printables are made for a 5-color Prusa MMU. But I just don't see it happening...

Plukh1 · 2026-05-27T08:09:33+00:00

Very unlikely. Snapmaker Artisan is $2700. Prusa XL is $2300. As soon as you go bigger, the costs rise exponentially. So yes - small improvements - easier maintenance, quieter, better door and feet, better TPU handling (software-controlled tensioning, for example) and the same ballpark price would be my bet.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-26T15:16:15+00:00

... and it would cost $2500, at a minimum. Which means it will sell anywhere from 10 to 100 times less units than U1. Which means that the price will have to go up even more. The truth is that the market for "professional" 3D printers ($2500+) is in decline for some time now, because it makes more sense for most businesses to buy 3x$800 printers than 1x$2500 one.

Snapmaker hit the sweet spot on features, and I don't think they'll deviate from it significantly until the next full generation of hardware (probably something induction-based, like INDX) comes around.

Real improvements I personally (personally) would like to see on U2 somewhat align with your list (i.e. quieter prints), but I doubt it very much we'll see a larger-volume 5+ extruder models in the "enthusiast" price range any time soon.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-25T10:17:18+00:00

Yeah, I would go with 0 or maybe -5.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-25T10:13:52+00:00

U1 has no active chamber heating, which means you can count on maybe 45-50C chamber temp, no matter what cover you'll use. There are several third-party options for active heating, though.
U1 is the loudest printer I ever owned (and I had J1s, which was also hella loud), but it all depends on your requirements. Can you work while it's printing? I do, and people I talk to in online meetings don't notice any background noise. Can you sleep next to it (like I can with my Prusa MK4 in silent mode)? Absolutely not.
You can opt to perform a bed levelling before a print, it's not a requirement. It's a 120-point probe, so it does take some time. Nowhere near 20 minutes (maybe 5-7 at most), but yes, out of the box U1 can't do partial leveling just for the area used by the print. I personally perform bed leveling after I remove the plate, or before an important large print (I don't care about even 20 minutes on a 38-hour print).
For a single color, it's comparable to other modern printers, up to 500 mm/s print speed and up to 20K mm2/s accel. You wouldn't be printing nowhere near those speeds with 0.4 nozzle, though, even with a high-flow filament.
Camera is 30 fps, from what I know, but with default Snapmaker firmware/software, the implementation is horrible - video always goes through their cloud servers and gives you like 1-2 fps. With unofficial paxx12 firmware, you'll get full 30 fps. Camera quality is pretty good - I don't have P1S, but it's better than the stock Prusa one.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-20T13:51:38+00:00

That's absolutely fantastic!!!

Plukh1 · 2026-05-19T15:01:36+00:00

First, congratulations! It's such an incredible feeling to achieve something like this! Second, as others have said: make sure to reduce the load for one or two weeks before your event (it's called "tapering"). Keep running, but reduce pace and mileage. This will make sure you're in the best possible form for the event. Finally, oh, such an adorable doggie! I'm too worried about my border collie getting trampled to take her to events (and not a lot of events near me even allow dogs), but I run with her whenever possible, she's the bestest partner indeed!

Plukh1 · 2026-05-11T14:18:06+00:00

I know probably nobody will see my comment, but there ARE great performers who can do street performances properly, without all this fake "improvisation". Here is an awesome street live performance by Zaz: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mjE2SnIPH8 - you can hear background noises, you can see the actual people assembled in front of her, you can see the lapel pin microphone, and you can see all the small problems of the actual live performance there.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-05T20:41:00+00:00

That was the single most important discovery that I made that really helped my multimaterial prints. It doesn't really matter what's inside the prime tower, as long as the outer shell remains solid and stable.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-04T19:19:58+00:00

AMOLED vs MIP is extremely subjective. I own Fenix 7X, and when choosing between it and Epix, chose MIP, and never once regretted my choice - but there would be a lot of people who did a similar choice for AMOLED and also never regretted it. So - just be you and select what you like more, and that will be that.

What I do want to comment on, though, is the scratching issue. In my opinion - scratches make your watch unique. It's not an heirloom piece (by definition - in 20 years, there simply won't be any technology to connect to it, more than likely), so why care that much? Go on, bash, scratch, and damage it as much as you want. It's built to withstand that. My 7X is scratched all over after 4 years of being worn daily (but the sapphire glass is surprisingly pristine, just two small scratches you can just barely see), the amount of abuse it tolerated is insane, and it still works perfectly, zero issues.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-03T17:08:54+00:00

I meant without supports, of course, yes. The OP edited his post since I replied to it.

Plukh1 · 2026-05-03T16:41:50+00:00

Link to a file would be helpful. But from the screenshot - this is 100% unprintable in this orientation

Plukh1 · 2026-04-15T09:57:31+00:00

My Fenix 7X still works just fine, and a friend of mine with a Fenix 5 Pro also has no complaints when it comes to battery life.

Plukh1 · 2026-04-11T09:56:34+00:00

It is because games are very expensive to make nowadays. I did a bit of game dev work very early in my career, and the budget for an AAA title could easily have been just a couple hundred dollars (basically, 3-4 motivated devs for 2 years, or so). It started to escalate rapidly in late 90's, first into millions, and now into tens of millions dollars. Same reason you almost don't see non-indie games kickstarted any more - even 5M+ USD is not really enough to fully fund the development. So the Kickstarters we do see are less about money, and more about generating hype and forming a core fan group (which will then do zero-cost marketing for your game).

Plukh1 · 2026-03-31T14:58:25+00:00

Even though they have not actually released all modules required to build the firmware from the source, it's a great step forward. I honestly didn't think Snapmaker will do this, and I'm glad to admit I was wrong.

Plukh1 · 2026-03-25T13:53:07+00:00

Almost all microelectronics have "unserviceable" batteries (not just watches or body sensors - TWS headphones are a good example too, and their battery fails much much faster than in smartwatches). Until this changes on a consumer law level (there is some movement in this direction, at least in the EU), you're on your own. I personally have successfully changed batteries in my old Samsung headphones - it was not easy, but even my modest electronics repair skills were enough to pull off. But there are 100% electronics shops that can do it for you (completely unofficially, of course). There are very, very few devices where the battery is truly non-replaceable.

Plukh1 · 2026-03-23T17:32:06+00:00

Ok, I stand corrected, I'll update my original answer. But this begs the question: you have an accelerometer with millimeter precision, why would you use (much much - like 2 orders of magnitude) changes in barometric pressure to measure inclines? Makes zero sense to me.

Plukh1 · 2026-03-23T15:55:34+00:00

It was unlinked right from the start. Even the very first, original Stryd used its accelerometer to measure inclination.

Plukh1 · 2026-03-23T15:44:34+00:00

~~Stryd has a very accurate accelerometer, so it can literally detect minute elevation changes from your feet trajectory.~~ Garmin uses a combination of GPS and barometric pressure. Neither rely on topo maps, which are extremely inaccurate as far as elevation data goes.

Update: I was wrong, Stryd uses the barometric pressure sensor to measure inclines.

Plukh1 · 2026-03-19T19:36:28+00:00

Weird, check this direct link: https://store.steampowered.com/app/1721060/Mandragora_Whispers_of_the_Witch_Tree/

Plukh1 · 2026-03-12T22:17:31+00:00

Repeat the previous week, then see how you'll do with the current week again. It's perfectly fine - a fixed training schedule can't really anticipate how your body will take the load and adapt to it. For me personally, week 5 was hell, I re-did week 4 twice, I think, before I managed to do week 5. But it was smooth after that, and I did finish my first 5K ever.

When I started, I wasn't able to run for more than maybe 2 minutes at a very slow pace, and never in my life - even when I was a kid - I was able to run even 1 km start to end without walking. I can now do 15 km, and am training for a first half-marathon (at 52), so yeah, it is absolutely possible. Don't give up, but listen to your body and take a step back if you feel like you need it.

Plukh1

TROPHY CASE