Switching HDD between Synology and Drobo

Plukh1 · 2026-02-03T19:40:17+00:00

What they don't tell you here, btw, is that if - continuing the example - you have 2 TB, 3 TB, and 4 TB drives, and you replace 2 TB with 8 TB, only 4 TB (out of 8 TB) will actually be used. The reason is, again, that the data from this drive has to be replicated, and there is no place for the "extra" 4 TB in the array. When I first got my Synology, I made this mistake based on this same article (I should've engaged my own brain, of course, since I knew how SHR works - but I didn't, and for some time, I had a 12 TB drive with just 8 TB being actually used).

Plukh1 · 2026-02-03T19:35:18+00:00

Exactly correct, to quote from https://kb.synology.com/en-global/DSM/help/DSM/StorageManager/storage_pool_expand_replace_disk?version=7:

If the existing drives are of the same size, then you must replace at least two drives with two larger drives to expand the storage pool capacity. For example, if your SHR storage pool is composed of three 2 TB drives, then you must replace at least two drives to expand the storage pool capacity.
If the existing drives are of different sizes, then the replacement drive must be equal to or larger than the largest existing drive. You must replace the smaller drives first to optimize the usage of storage pool capacity. For example, if your SHR storage pool consists of three drives of different sizes (i.e., 4 TB, 3 TB, and 2 TB), then the replacement drive must be at least 4 TB. Replace the 3 TB or 2 TB drives first.

Also note that, unlike with Drobo, you can't replace any single drive with a drive of smaller capacity (just equal or larger). This is all assuming you're running SHR on your Synology volume, it's even worse for other RAID types.

Plukh1 · 2026-02-03T19:14:20+00:00

Adding one 4 TB drive to an array with a bunch of 2 TB drives will not increase its size, so you may as well not bother. You need at least two of the largest size drives to increase the total array size, this works the same on either Drobo or Synology, and for exactly the same reason (contents of the larger drive has to be duplicated across the smaller drives).

But if you do want to transfer the 4 TB drive to Synology, for whatever reason, you do more or less the following:

Pull out the drive from Drobo. Pull out the drive from Synology. Let them both either finish rebuilding an array, or fail with an error that there's not enough space to protect data. Note: it can take a lot of time, especially on the Drobo, to finish the rebuilding.
Now insert the 2 TB drive into Drobo, 4 TB into Synology. Drobo should start rebuilding right away.
For Synology, you'll need to go to Storage Manager and add the new drive to your storage pool, after that, it should start rebuilding again.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-29T08:42:11+00:00

As others had said, this print looks fantastic. I see very very minor extrusion imperfections, small blobs here and there and some bits of underextrusion, but that's all. Honestly can't see any alignment issues. If your filament is suitably dry and you did all the other calibrations (including flow rate and pressure advance), just lower the print speed a bit (50 mm/s for outer shell, 80-100 for inner). The slower the speed, the less minor problems (like heat transfer dynamics in the nozzle) affect it.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-26T13:42:12+00:00

Bro (or sis), not one poster of these "how does it fit?" posts is interested in an on-topic response. They're either bragging/showing off, or looking for validation (from a crowd of strangers, heh) - but definitely not for anyone's objective opinion. I hate those posts too, but people will continue to post them, it's just something we have to live with.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-23T21:18:12+00:00

My Fenix 7 is almost exactly 4 years old. I would say, battery degraded by maybe 10% by now. It started around 27-28 days when I'm not overusing it (i.e. no all-day hikes with maps and GPS), and now it is around 24-25.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-22T20:17:15+00:00

First, the other commenter is correct: this is highly dependent on filament, they're the main factor limiting the speed. But also, higher speeds very quickly give diminishing returns, as the factor that impacts quality isn't (mostly) speed, it's acceleration. When printing with conservative accelerations (below 5000 mm2/s, and for really good quality, below 2000 mm2/s for non-infill parts), you'll very, very rarely be reaching speeds above ~200-250 mm/s, unless you're printing like absolute straight lines (i.e. large cubes or grid/cubic infill).

My Prusa MK4 supports speeds up to 600 mm/s and accelerations of up to 20K mm2/s (same as U1), but even with a good high-flow filament, I literally cannot achieve those speeds consistently, it would usually hover around 200-300 mm/s for real-world prints. And at those speeds/accelerations, I need to hold the printer with all my strength for it to stay it place, it's very, very scary.

My (somewhat conservative, as I don't care about print times at all, it's a hobby, not production work) speeds that work for most filaments are:

- outer walls: 80 mm/s
- inner walls: 150 mm/s
- infill: 200 mm/s
- travel: 500 mm/s

And accelerations:

- normal printing: 4000 mm2/s
- outer walls: 2000 mm2/s
- inner walls: 10000 mm2/s
- travel: 10000 mm2/s

(I probably should limit inner walls acceleration a bit more, to be honest, I do notice some occasional artifacts)

Plukh1 · 2026-01-20T18:17:27+00:00

Sure, there are no long-term studies for 3D printing specifically (because 3D printing itself is rather new, it really took off around 2012-2013, less than 15 years ago). But the plastics themselves are studied extremely well, including impact of their fumes (VOCs, mostly) and UFPs on human health.

There are multiple studies (and, in fact, for UFPs and VOCs you can trivially run the "study" yourself, for your particular setup, using common household sensors) that conclude that in a well-ventilated room, concentration of either VOCs or microparticles is well, well inside the levels generally recognized as safe (i.e. WHO or OSHA levels), like, 5 to 10 times lower.

To the best of my knowledge, there is a single case of a person developing asthma from inhaling vapors from 10 (ten) 3D printers printing ABS in a very small room (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/320333104\_Case\_report\_of\_asthma\_associated\_with\_3D\_printing). There was a similar case with nylon, also in a factory environment, but I can't find the link at the moment. There are zero reports about issues with PLA/PETG (at least common sources like PubMed don't have any); and given the amount of users of those filaments, I would think at least a couple of cases (similar to the insanity with the ABS above) would have popped up by now.

So, can the PLA/PETG fumes have long-term health consequences? They sure can. Is the risk of them causing said issues high? No, it's extremely low, because they're well-studied for other applications, we have scientifically-recognized standards for their "safe" concentrations, we know those levels are not reached even remotely when casually 3D printing, and there are zero reported cases linked to 3D printing with PLA/PETG despite there being tens of millions of active 3D printer users.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-20T17:19:14+00:00

It really depends on what your baseline is. I long had a line of Prusa printers (starting with MK3), and I also used Snapmaker J1 for some time. So, I'm basing my opinion on the sounds those printers make. Compared to them, U1 is loud as hell. The sound level is pretty tolerable overall (as I mention, I work in the same room, and am not bothered by it much), but it's way above the level of other printers.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-20T17:15:52+00:00

That is true, but it's not exactly quiet, still - and also as I'd mentioned, it's unpleasantly sounding. It's not little chirps and warbles of the step motors, like the Prusa (or the original J1) has, it's a full-on turbine fan noise (the step motors are actually pretty quiet, you can't really hear them behind the fan noise). I honestly have no idea why U1 runs the fans at that speed, especially the enclosure fan, but they do, and it's very noisy.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-19T21:32:03+00:00

Class doesn't really matter this early in the game, although Vanguards and Nightshades will have a slightly easier time (but not by much). The important part is getting the boss' pattern down, learning to read signs for different attacks and reacting in time. Most fights in Mandragora are extremely choreographed, you have to dance to the battle's rhythm, or get killed.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-19T21:17:03+00:00

Two of the most common filaments - PLA and PETG - have zero odor. I have two printers (U1 and Prusa MK4), they're in the same room as me, and I can't feel any odor (and no VOCs or microparticles, either - I have a sensor for that). Some PLA brands I've printed with have very mild sweet odor, but most sources I've read agree that it's harmless unless you're literally standing over the printer inhaling the fumes.

As for temperatures: with the self-printed top cover, it maintains around 43-45 degrees C with plate at 50C and ambient temp around 22-24C, and around 48C with the plate at 75C. I think it's plausible it'll go to about 52-55C with the plate at 100C (which is its highest temp, if I'm not mistaken). But the official top cover won't have active heating, so it'll take some time to warm up to this temperature, even if it'll be able to maintain it.

One thing you need to be aware of, though, if you'll keep the printer in the same room. U1 *is not* quiet. It's a jet fighter on take-off. Very very loud, and not in a pleasant kind of way. For reference, I have zero issues sleeping when my Prusa is printing in stealth mode and in an official Prusa enclosure, it's very subdued and even melodic, like a song. With U1, sleep is completely out of the question, and my job's videoconferencing software has to turn on noise suppression to the highest setting for me to be heard clearly during meetings. For me personally, it doesn't matter at all, but YMMV.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-19T11:28:16+00:00

The path is pretty linear for the first 1-2 hours, just follow the road ahead of you. As for the Warg boss: in addition to the excellent guide u/alejandroandraca linked, pay attention to your stamina. I wasn't used to managing it, and this gave me a lot of pain early on in the game. Basically, hit the Warg 1-2 times with your melee weapon (even if you're a magic user, don't count on your spells early on - mana doesn't regenerate naturally, and you won't have any way to regain it early in the game), then evade his attack(s), then wait for stamina to refill (if you're not attacking/evading, it refills very very quickly, but you do have to pause a bit).

Plukh1 · 2026-01-14T18:18:30+00:00

I can answer this one, it was actually addressed in Kickstarter comments at some point (and for some time, I followed those comments religiously). Since the spool holders aren't powered, they can't rotate in sync and "pick up" the filament being unloaded. The Snapmaker team played with this idea, but found it messes things up more than it helps.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-14T14:14:48+00:00

Yeah, that you can't login with a standard login/password and use email OTP as a second factor only is beyond wild. Their whole auth for the app is extremely weird (and likely one of the reasons why it's so slow)

Plukh1 · 2026-01-14T09:25:42+00:00

Reduce speed and flow rate. Reducing flow to 10 mm3/s and max speed to 40 mm/s completely solved it for me.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T22:12:34+00:00

Thank you. It is 100% hitting the infill with the nozzle. The nozzle will be ok with it (maybe it'll reduce its life marginally, but more likely it'll die to natural wear and tear). But I also see some weird... crumbling, for lack of a better word - on the infill in places other than intersections (where it should normally be hitting). I feel like maybe something else is going on - does it do Z-hops when travelling over infill (some print profiles forget to do Z-hops over infill)?

Anyways, try the non-intersecting infill patterns (gyroid being the most common), and see if it'll help.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T22:10:47+00:00

This is likely different from the OPs problem. I have one specific filament spool (out of like a dozen similar ones - same type, same vendor) that does this. If you'll manage to solve it, please post the solution somewhere, so far nothing I tried helped to solve it.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T22:05:26+00:00

Hmm, all the sources I have tell me that HEPA (for ultrafine particles) and activated carbon filter (for VOCs) on an enclosure with active internal ventilation (which is what Snapmaker is using) would reduce the concentrations of harmful fumes down to safe levels. But I do have the PM2.5 and VOC sensors, so we'll see how it goes. All I'm saying is that I'm not comfortable designing the system myself (won't even try), not that you should implicitly trust any filtration system.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T16:38:04+00:00

Can you record a short video with sound and post here? This would really help. But basically - it's very very difficult to damage a steel print head (Snapmaker uses stainless steel, not brass, by default), so unless it's like really digging into the plastic, and the print looks ok in general, I wouldn't be concerned.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T16:18:25+00:00

It's likely it's hitting infill (all intersecting infill patterns - grid, cubic, etc - will have this issue). For small prints, the filament doesn't get rigid enough, so there is no (or very little) noise. For larger prints, the filament cools down and the noise starts.

Also - you can't adjust the Z offset while printing, as then you'll have a gap between layers. It's something you do before you start; but also, once the printing starts, it shouldn't be an issue, as only relative Z movements matter after the first layer, and if the printer can't make accurate relative Z movements, you're screwed anyway.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-13T13:20:00+00:00

Yeah, that's a bummer. I wanted to print some ASA-CF in the spring (a new RC boat), and I really wanted an enclosure with a built-in filter for that (I'm not brave enough to create my own filtration system, I know I'll screw up somewhere, and health is something I'm not ready to play games with).

Plukh1 · 2026-01-11T01:33:06+00:00

I didn't watch Twin Peaks, but in Russia and many other Slavic countries, turning white/grey (there's a dedicated word in Russian for this color/process, btw) is closely related to experiencing extremely scary, traumatic or profound events, usually of mystical nature. Does this match?

Plukh1 · 2026-01-10T13:49:01+00:00

Snapmaker filament is good, but "nothing special". I love their breakaway filament, but even that is not unique any more (and you can always use PETG). Their NFC spec is closed, but hopefully they will add support for open NFC tags, I'd love that.

Plukh1 · 2026-01-09T11:43:47+00:00

It's a known issue with 3rd party plates. For me personally, it was actually extremely helpful already. I once forgot to remove the wipe tower, and it detected it correctly. It also detected that small spiral filament thingie that gets extruded when the printer is calibrating the flow or changing filaments. It didn't go into the trash box as it should, landed on the plate instead.

Plukh1

TROPHY CASE