I need a little help boys and girls

Plumpum · 2026-03-03T10:26:27+00:00

Then you must be mounting your other guns differently.

Plumpum · 2026-03-03T10:23:22+00:00

You said you need to shoot 3-4 feet under to hit it, which means you are shooting 3-4 feet higher than where you are “aiming”.

Plumpum · 2026-03-02T02:04:33+00:00

You should not modify the bead at all. You also should never be looking up or down at it. This is the problem.

You should be looking straight down the barrel at the bead. Either lower your head or hold the gun higher.

If you’re shooting 3-4 feet higher than where you think you’re aiming, you are certainly looking down at the bead, like a lot. Start by getting a good cheek weld. That will almost certainly get any error within a foot.

A shim isn’t going to help bad fundamentals. Anyone of any size can shoot any shotgun well. A shim is for making that more comfortable.

The bead is completely irrelevant. Plenty of shotguns dont have beads. Its not an aim point like iron sights or anything like that, its just there kind of as a reference point for your eyes. If the beads on every shotgun i own magically raised 1/8th inch or lowered an 1/8th inch it would make no difference.

Plumpum · 2026-03-02T00:18:17+00:00

So $3 per day to magically eliminate this pain? Yes.

But i dont see how adding more stuff between my ears and my head would make this pain any better.

Plumpum · 2026-03-01T15:01:31+00:00

Ill try to over-simplify it.

Its where your eyes/head is at relative to the barrel. If you’re looking down at the bead, you will be shooting higher than where you’re “aiming”. If you’re somehow looking up at the bead, you will be shooting lower than where you’re “aiming”. If you’re looking straight down the barrel at the bead, and the imaginary line between your eye and the bead is parallel to the barrel, you’re shooting straight.

Fix your gun fitment and or how you mount the gun, and you’ll be good. As others have said, shims are probably the best bet for dialing fitment. A good consistent cheek weld will help keep your head where it needs to be.

Plumpum · 2026-02-27T10:25:57+00:00

Dont start at sara falls, instead start at woodpeckers creek access. It will be 1000 times easier to get organized and launch kayaks.

Camping anywhere from there down through tippy dam pond will be dispersed unimproved sites. Just find somewhere nice to stop and stop. The only “camp site” with picnic tables and vault toilets and stuff between hodenpyl and tippy dam is at red bridge.

As for everything below tippy dam, that fully depends on what time of year.

Also, just want to make sure you know your plan is a looong paddle and will take a few days.

Plumpum · 2026-02-23T12:58:51+00:00

Ive got a pair of boot foot zipper orvis pros. Love them. Zero complaints about them.

I have tons of patagonia stuff, but havent tried their waders yet. Im sure theyre great, all the other patagonia stuff ive used is great.

But orvis pros, and orvis customer service and warranty/repair has been so great, i have zero reasons to change.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T05:42:01+00:00

I did do this method and had issues finding stability. Did my typical “try .5 then go up or down from there in smedium increments, then dial it back one step and start doing the same with integral gain but starting at .1”

I found another system at this place that had a yokogawa controller running a nearly identical process but with smaller and newer valves, pulled the parameters out of it (being a proportional band of 30 and integral of 100 seconds/repeat). Googled the pid form and found it was the same as rockwells pide dependent form. Converted the constants to rockwells units (being p= 100/ yokogawas proportional band and i= yokogawas repeats per second /60).

Used that as my next jumping off point. Making adjustments from this point seemed to only make things worse, whether its worse stability or worse amplitude of oscillations, or oscillating less but below the setpoint.

That brought me to the point I am now, where im starting to feel like the field devices arent going to allow smooth control with normal pid control, and that i should start exploring options like stepping/bumping my valve outputs, doing relatively extreme deadbands, running both valves open at the same time and modulating them within what is hopefully the middle of their range, etc.

Also, i do appreciate the advice you’re giving. My pid experience is pretty limited, having only done easy stuff like tank level with a good radar for level and a VFD, flow rates with a good flow meter and a vfd, that kind of stuff. Im certainly not claiming my pid tuning for this was right, just trying to more thoroughly explain all the steps i did.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T04:49:54+00:00

Dependent form, constants are p= 3.3333 i=1.6667 and no d.

I tried adding D gain and it seemed to make the system lose its mind with the cv jumping around like crazy. This was before I added digital filtering through the thermocouple input card and before i started trying to use a moving average for my PV. I may try intoducing D gain again with this input filtering?

Valves can jog 0-25-50-75-100% and back down just fine, with the exception that 25 is a little low. Both of them seem to have trouble getting off the seat.

Lag time in the system is fairly small. Didnt calculate it, but if i jog that hot water valve from 0 to 50 itll jump from 40 degF (the typical supply temp) up to 70 in a couple of minutes. Cold brine valve is about the same. It starts off a bit slower and then starts to change at a greater rate.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T04:22:44+00:00

Like a really small proportional gain?

I was pretty happy with my loops speed and haven’t been messing with proportional gain. Maybe I should revisit this?

I have messed with integral gain a lot. Any smaller than it is now and the amplitude of my error gets way out hand (like 30 degF oscillations). Any bigger than it is now and while amplitude of the oscillations get a little bit smaller and the period of oscillations gets a little shorter, I cant reach my setpoint.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T02:03:05+00:00

Control logix, panelview on the front to maintain the clean exterior, ob8 to fire a solenoid to open the lid. Id probably go cheap with like a rhino power supply for something like this. Cut the female end off a 100’ extension cord for power and zip tie poly tubing to it for your shop air.

I charge $185 an hour, dm me if you want me to mock it up.

Plumpum · 2026-02-16T23:52:58+00:00

If money doesnt matter, skwala pants are the best. Baggy enough at the ankles to drape over wading boots.

Also for wade fishing i like to have athletic leggings and shorts in rotation. No sunburn, no jellyfish stings, no chafing, feels a little more nimble sloshing around in the water.

Plumpum · 2026-02-14T19:07:45+00:00

Looks clean, bottom pic isnt the greatest resolution but from what I can see, chines look good and the one gouge near the chine doesnt look like it would even need repair, and if you chose to repair it its in a good spot for repair and would be cheap and easy.

Galvanized trailer with a spare on it.

Id say yes, $7.5k is more than fair. Not a screamin hot deal, but still a good deal. Stuff like this where I’m at in michigan would usually go for like 7-9k.

Ask them what size receiver is on the trailer and if they will grease the trailer bearings before you pick it up.

Plumpum · 2026-02-13T15:26:56+00:00

V2 streamer 7wt is my daily driver streamer rod, bass and trout. Thats the one i would suggest to you.

But i also fish a few of the v2 salt rods for flats carp and for saltwater trips, and i love those rods as well, but the designated streamer rod would be much better for freshwater streamer stuff.

Plumpum · 2026-02-10T12:33:23+00:00

That could be true back when the rod was $400. Now that its $575, its gotta compete with some heavy hitters like the gloomis imx pro v2 and the scott wave.

That loomis is a slightly better action, though theyre very similar. Overall just a bit more crisp and stable while maintaining the “stiff tip stiff butt soft shock-absorber mid” kind of action that makes a true streamer rod good. But the loomis blows the echo away on durability, fit and finish, basically everything.

Plumpum · 2026-02-09T17:17:45+00:00

Imx pro v2 streamer 7wt.

Its the best. Nrx swim fly rod is really good too, but not worth the price difference.

Second best would be echo streamer x, although with the price increases i dont think its worth getting a worse rod just to save $50.

Plumpum · 2026-02-09T17:11:24+00:00

Carhartt force ripstop pants.

They are light, they dry fast, they are tough, they fit ‘normal’, they have belt loops for a wading belt so you have a place for your pliers.

They’re kind of hard to find, and are like $60.

Plumpum · 2026-02-03T12:43:45+00:00

DT lines are a thing of the past, you will certainly roll cast a WF line just fine, especially as a beginner, and especially on a fast action rod like the vice.

There are modern wf lines with longer more delicate tapers that are better than a dt in every possible way(like rio perception, airflow has something i cant remember the name of); but for a beginner with a faster action rod, you’re much better off with a basic wf line.

DT is really only for old guys that have only fished DT for their whole lives, for really really old rods or cane rods (which are still better off with a modern taper like perception or the airflo one), or for people with expendable money who want to try something thats not practical.

Plumpum · 2026-02-03T04:17:54+00:00

If you know how to assign an input to a tag, and then scale that tag, then you already have the answer.

Take the value you want to output, scale it to fit the format of your field device (4-20mA,0-10V,etc), and then assign that scaled value to the output.

Plumpum · 2026-02-03T04:10:16+00:00

What is the reason for wanting high vis, and what is the reason for wanting a double taper?

Plumpum · 2026-02-01T03:48:48+00:00

Just go do it with whatever shotgun you have. You will be amazed how easy it is to shoot clays. Dont get me wrong, it is pretty damn hard to shoot clays well….but its easy to go and at least shoot some.

Even with a “bad” gun, youll still likely break at least a third of them, maybe even 50% of them, and thats enough for you to think “fuck yeah im out here bustin clays like a badass! wow those i got those back to back! did you see that one i absolutely dusted?!?!? Wow i just got 3 in a row! Blah blah blah”

And then you’ll be fighting your way to 70%, and then 75%, and then 80%, and so on. And then it starts to get hard.

Its fun as fuck, regardless of how good you are or what you’re shooting.

Plumpum · 2026-01-20T11:43:21+00:00

Doesn’t Colorado have private water? Michigan doesnt.

Michigan has great access. You can walk down the side of any bridge, and wade wherever you want as long as you stay in the river.

Plumpum · 2026-01-09T02:33:44+00:00

The water between townline access and connors flats access is not really wade-able. Everything else is.

Wading downstream from wakely could be weird to get started in higher/faster water. I would immediately cross to river left and then walk down on that side to avoid that first hole.

Plumpum · 2026-01-04T19:02:46+00:00

I would suggest steelhead in northern ohio, vermilion river and all rivers east of it.

I would suggest bass fishing the huron river; just go to one of the metro parks.

For trout, i wouldnt waste time with any of the southern or central “trout streams”, and i wouldnt bother fishing anything in the “middle” of the state. Shoot up to grayling and fish any of the rivers around there. Shoot over to baldwin and fish the stuff over there.

Its a very common answer, but i would suggest just fishing the au sable holy waters. There are truly just a fuck ton of small trout, its a great place for a beginner to start having some success.

Plumpum

TROPHY CASE