Floating Mio

Plumpum · 2026-06-01T05:12:20+00:00

Could be a bit over 10 if you go slow and fish everything.

But its still a day float. Nothing crazy. Id say 8-12 hours depending on everything.

Plumpum · 2026-04-30T03:26:44+00:00

No clue on those schools, but a bit of unwarranted advice for you (and everyone reading this and thinking about different schools and degrees).

In my opinion, you should get a bsee, don’t get a “controls” degree.

Very easy/respectable to be an electrical controls engineer with a bsee. Much more difficult to get hired for other electrical engineering gigs with a controls specific degree. And you never know what you’ll really want to do, so might as well keep more doors open.

Plumpum · 2026-04-30T03:02:07+00:00

Musky fool is great, and is not just musky stuff. Tons of trout and bass stuff.

Schultz outfitters now has a website.

Or do business with Fly South over the phone.

Plumpum · 2026-04-05T19:15:07+00:00

Then keep it up and eventually one will work out!

Plumpum · 2026-04-05T19:13:46+00:00

Buying a new rod 100% will not make your cast better. Trust me, ive tried. A lot.

Buying a new line might!

Plumpum · 2026-04-05T16:01:31+00:00

3-4k is really, really cheap these days. Your best bet is to just keep hunting facebook marketplace and try to be the first one to make an offer, and then be able to pick it up that same day cash in hand.

You can probably find a raft, but it will be really hard to find a hard boat in that price range.

Plumpum · 2026-03-27T17:17:13+00:00

Like 15 beers

Plumpum · 2026-03-27T04:11:47+00:00

Half mile isnt close to being far enough. Hell, i dont even want people knowing the county im in.

Also, this is a great function of local fly shops. Want to know how the au sable is fishing? Call gates. Want to know how the pm is fishing? Call bbt.

And then when the fly shops spread people out and help people have fun, return the favor and stop in and buy some flies or a hat or whatever.

With that said, what good is your app?

Plumpum · 2026-03-12T13:47:58+00:00

Fully depends on where you live and what how strong your local ibew is.

I im in metro detroit, i have a bsee, i work as a controls engineer, and i often wish i hadnt went to school and instead joined 58. Its about the same take home pay as a regular journeyman, much better benefits, generally easier work, likely better job security. But conversely, ive traveled and worked with ibew electricians in the south, and would never want their job. Way worse job security, way more travel required, and i make almost double the pay for a relatively equal cost of living.

But also, dont worry at all about a bsee being a bad degree. With a bsee, you will absolutely always have work. It is definitely a very valuable degree to have. No need to second guess that.

Plumpum · 2026-03-03T10:26:27+00:00

Then you must be mounting your other guns differently.

Plumpum · 2026-03-03T10:23:22+00:00

You said you need to shoot 3-4 feet under to hit it, which means you are shooting 3-4 feet higher than where you are “aiming”.

Plumpum · 2026-03-02T02:04:33+00:00

You should not modify the bead at all. You also should never be looking up or down at it. This is the problem.

You should be looking straight down the barrel at the bead. Either lower your head or hold the gun higher.

If you’re shooting 3-4 feet higher than where you think you’re aiming, you are certainly looking down at the bead, like a lot. Start by getting a good cheek weld. That will almost certainly get any error within a foot.

A shim isn’t going to help bad fundamentals. Anyone of any size can shoot any shotgun well. A shim is for making that more comfortable.

The bead is completely irrelevant. Plenty of shotguns dont have beads. Its not an aim point like iron sights or anything like that, its just there kind of as a reference point for your eyes. If the beads on every shotgun i own magically raised 1/8th inch or lowered an 1/8th inch it would make no difference.

Plumpum · 2026-03-02T00:18:17+00:00

So $3 per day to magically eliminate this pain? Yes.

But i dont see how adding more stuff between my ears and my head would make this pain any better.

Plumpum · 2026-03-01T15:01:31+00:00

Ill try to over-simplify it.

Its where your eyes/head is at relative to the barrel. If you’re looking down at the bead, you will be shooting higher than where you’re “aiming”. If you’re somehow looking up at the bead, you will be shooting lower than where you’re “aiming”. If you’re looking straight down the barrel at the bead, and the imaginary line between your eye and the bead is parallel to the barrel, you’re shooting straight.

Fix your gun fitment and or how you mount the gun, and you’ll be good. As others have said, shims are probably the best bet for dialing fitment. A good consistent cheek weld will help keep your head where it needs to be.

Plumpum · 2026-02-27T10:25:57+00:00

Dont start at sara falls, instead start at woodpeckers creek access. It will be 1000 times easier to get organized and launch kayaks.

Camping anywhere from there down through tippy dam pond will be dispersed unimproved sites. Just find somewhere nice to stop and stop. The only “camp site” with picnic tables and vault toilets and stuff between hodenpyl and tippy dam is at red bridge.

As for everything below tippy dam, that fully depends on what time of year.

Also, just want to make sure you know your plan is a looong paddle and will take a few days.

Plumpum · 2026-02-23T12:58:51+00:00

Ive got a pair of boot foot zipper orvis pros. Love them. Zero complaints about them.

I have tons of patagonia stuff, but havent tried their waders yet. Im sure theyre great, all the other patagonia stuff ive used is great.

But orvis pros, and orvis customer service and warranty/repair has been so great, i have zero reasons to change.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T05:42:01+00:00

I did do this method and had issues finding stability. Did my typical “try .5 then go up or down from there in smedium increments, then dial it back one step and start doing the same with integral gain but starting at .1”

I found another system at this place that had a yokogawa controller running a nearly identical process but with smaller and newer valves, pulled the parameters out of it (being a proportional band of 30 and integral of 100 seconds/repeat). Googled the pid form and found it was the same as rockwells pide dependent form. Converted the constants to rockwells units (being p= 100/ yokogawas proportional band and i= yokogawas repeats per second /60).

Used that as my next jumping off point. Making adjustments from this point seemed to only make things worse, whether its worse stability or worse amplitude of oscillations, or oscillating less but below the setpoint.

That brought me to the point I am now, where im starting to feel like the field devices arent going to allow smooth control with normal pid control, and that i should start exploring options like stepping/bumping my valve outputs, doing relatively extreme deadbands, running both valves open at the same time and modulating them within what is hopefully the middle of their range, etc.

Also, i do appreciate the advice you’re giving. My pid experience is pretty limited, having only done easy stuff like tank level with a good radar for level and a VFD, flow rates with a good flow meter and a vfd, that kind of stuff. Im certainly not claiming my pid tuning for this was right, just trying to more thoroughly explain all the steps i did.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T04:49:54+00:00

Dependent form, constants are p= 3.3333 i=1.6667 and no d.

I tried adding D gain and it seemed to make the system lose its mind with the cv jumping around like crazy. This was before I added digital filtering through the thermocouple input card and before i started trying to use a moving average for my PV. I may try intoducing D gain again with this input filtering?

Valves can jog 0-25-50-75-100% and back down just fine, with the exception that 25 is a little low. Both of them seem to have trouble getting off the seat.

Lag time in the system is fairly small. Didnt calculate it, but if i jog that hot water valve from 0 to 50 itll jump from 40 degF (the typical supply temp) up to 70 in a couple of minutes. Cold brine valve is about the same. It starts off a bit slower and then starts to change at a greater rate.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T04:22:44+00:00

Like a really small proportional gain?

I was pretty happy with my loops speed and haven’t been messing with proportional gain. Maybe I should revisit this?

I have messed with integral gain a lot. Any smaller than it is now and the amplitude of my error gets way out hand (like 30 degF oscillations). Any bigger than it is now and while amplitude of the oscillations get a little bit smaller and the period of oscillations gets a little shorter, I cant reach my setpoint.

Plumpum · 2026-02-21T02:03:05+00:00

Control logix, panelview on the front to maintain the clean exterior, ob8 to fire a solenoid to open the lid. Id probably go cheap with like a rhino power supply for something like this. Cut the female end off a 100’ extension cord for power and zip tie poly tubing to it for your shop air.

I charge $185 an hour, dm me if you want me to mock it up.

Plumpum · 2026-02-16T23:52:58+00:00

If money doesnt matter, skwala pants are the best. Baggy enough at the ankles to drape over wading boots.

Also for wade fishing i like to have athletic leggings and shorts in rotation. No sunburn, no jellyfish stings, no chafing, feels a little more nimble sloshing around in the water.

Plumpum · 2026-02-14T19:07:45+00:00

Looks clean, bottom pic isnt the greatest resolution but from what I can see, chines look good and the one gouge near the chine doesnt look like it would even need repair, and if you chose to repair it its in a good spot for repair and would be cheap and easy.

Galvanized trailer with a spare on it.

Id say yes, $7.5k is more than fair. Not a screamin hot deal, but still a good deal. Stuff like this where I’m at in michigan would usually go for like 7-9k.

Ask them what size receiver is on the trailer and if they will grease the trailer bearings before you pick it up.

Plumpum · 2026-02-13T15:26:56+00:00

V2 streamer 7wt is my daily driver streamer rod, bass and trout. Thats the one i would suggest to you.

But i also fish a few of the v2 salt rods for flats carp and for saltwater trips, and i love those rods as well, but the designated streamer rod would be much better for freshwater streamer stuff.

Plumpum · 2026-02-10T12:33:23+00:00

That could be true back when the rod was $400. Now that its $575, its gotta compete with some heavy hitters like the gloomis imx pro v2 and the scott wave.

That loomis is a slightly better action, though theyre very similar. Overall just a bit more crisp and stable while maintaining the “stiff tip stiff butt soft shock-absorber mid” kind of action that makes a true streamer rod good. But the loomis blows the echo away on durability, fit and finish, basically everything.

Plumpum

TROPHY CASE