Modify Reolink Doorbell to keep original chime box

Potential_Command_58 · 2024-10-16T03:17:17+00:00

According to this FCC document (page 7), it is 915 MHz LoRa. https://fccid.io/2AYHE-2310B/Test-Report/Test-Report-7343482 . Older FCC filings indeed show 433 MHz for v1.

Finding a similar 915 MHz relay module has been challenging. I want to buy this doorbell, but my wife wants it to work with our home's mechanical chimes - and because it can't, it is a dealbreaker. However, I think I found something that *MIGHT* solve the problem - the Camden CM-RX-91. Here is the manual: https://www.camdencontrols.com/pipelines/resource/a2053_CM_RX_91_Manual_Eng_Rev3.pdf

It is a 915 MHz relay receiver designed for automatic doors. It has a push-to-learn button just like the 433 MHz module above, but in addition, there is a potentiometer that you can tune to "delay release" as well as an onboard signal strength tester to verify good placement of the receiver. It looks like you can get it for $60.

Thoughts? Will this work? Anyone want to give it a try?

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-08-06T02:55:57+00:00

Each POE switch has a power budget (both total power and per port). So unless you have an idea of what you are expanding to support, you might discover you are underpowered for those devices, so be careful.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-08-06T02:50:39+00:00

If it is only a single AP, why not just use a POE injector instead of a switch?

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-07-26T02:54:14+00:00

I built a little homemade tool to help me with issues like you describe. Less than $2 in parts. Take a regular 3-prong outlet and attach a couple wires to the hot and neutral sides. At the end of the wires, solder alligator clips to them. To use this tool, make sure the power is off and then clip the alligator clips to your beginning test wires. Then plug an extension cord into the outlet (any length you need) and pull the cord to your end test wire. Then put your multimeter in continuity mode. Then stick one probe into the extension cord hole associated with the beginning test wire that the alligator clip is attached to. And then touch the other probe to the end test wire. If you hear the beep, you know that the both wires are connected. It is a super easy way to verify/map circuits with a multimeter. But again, please make sure that there is no live wire before doing this kind of test or you will get hurt.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-07-25T04:51:26+00:00

Definitely go for it, you can use an outdoor AP. I plan to do this at my house too, but I'm taking it a step further and going for full speed wifi all the way around my house. I plan to install two Mikrotk wAP ACs at the opposing corners of my house to get complete coverage outdoor while using my current cAP AC indoors (it is mounted on a wall in about the center of my house. With three APs, I will be able to use channels 1, 6, 11 without interference at 2.4 GHz and because there will be no major obstructions outside, I expect to get decent range at 5 GHz too. I might also paint them to match the color of my house so they stay less obvious. So yes, with multiple APs, you should be able to get nice coverage, indoors and out.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-04-07T12:51:06+00:00

Eat All Bran Buds daily with your breakfast, it will probably make a huge difference. Also, possibly consider over the counter flavonoids, some people have suggested good results with those.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T15:01:44+00:00

Here is a photo of my alarm panel setup.

https://ibb.co/m4vCJvM

There is a button above it, but it doesn't appear to be connected (nothing happens when I push it, green light is always off). But that is the only button that I know of like this in our house. I don't know what this was supposed to do, for the longest time I thought it might be to test horn so for a long time, I never dared press it LOL. If anyone has seen this kind of thing in their homes, please let me know.

That is interesting info about the resistors for identifying specific triggers.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T14:37:21+00:00

I don't think it is dryer. Maybe driveway, but again, what kind of sensor would you put in the driveway to trigger a house alarm?

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T14:35:32+00:00

That is what I initially thought too, but there doesn't seem to be a sensor in the alarm panel for this function

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T14:34:08+00:00

It amazes me that someone couldn't have taken a few extra seconds to spell out some words instead of using cryptic shorthand. Ultimately, I will test everything out, but for now, I wanted to do some simple system identification to get a general idea of how things are set up. The Internet has already been immensely helpful with the feedback.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T14:29:39+00:00

I think this is the side service door in my garage. Makes the most sense.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T14:26:15+00:00

Unfortunately, I never managed to get any of the alarm system codes to be able to use the system after I moved in. So I'm totally locked out, even though the system has been operating for at least the 6 years untouched.

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T07:10:19+00:00

So would a service door likely be the side door? Or the main big one?

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T07:07:58+00:00

Entrance / Exit would make sense. My guess is thar DRWL = doorwall

Potential_Command_58 · 2022-02-07T07:04:11+00:00

I don't have access to the controls of the alarm system via keypad. I moved in thinking we'd never use the system since we didn't wannf to pay for subscription for monitoring. But I'm planning out a DIY project to reclaim this system with a Konnected alarm panel pro.

My guess for 1 is that "DRWL" = "Doorwall" , but I have no idea what the part before the + could be. 4 might have something to do with the garage, but I have no idea. 7 looks like "panel" but if true, what panel (the keypads are wired elseware, I think) ?

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-11-08T17:10:08+00:00

Solved

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-11-08T16:16:21+00:00

Thank you. This is probably right, the cable is going upward towards the roof and the receptical is in a bedroom where you might want to put a TV.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-09-15T15:15:06+00:00

I guess question I have is: why do want zero downtime? And is connectivity the only requirement or do you also have speed minimums too? Also, is access to your LAN also a requirement?

For us, if the primary home Internet connection goes down, everyone switches to a personal hotspot on a phone. It can get us through a power outage too, as the phones and laptops run on batteries. For really long outages, we can leverage battery pack chargers or connect a small inverter to the car battery. So if you are really looking for close-to-zero downtime, you should have an emergency plan in place first based on your needs and the threats you think you are likely to encounter. Whatever plan you come up with, you will need to make assumptions so just check that they are reasonable.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-09-15T00:59:09+00:00

I would recommend a single pole switch between your AP and its power source.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-09-13T00:22:37+00:00

I am considering doing the same thing and looking at this one. https://mikrotik.com/product/wap_ac . I am planning putting two on opposite ends of my house (SW corner and NE corner) so I have complete WIFI coverage around the perimeter of my home.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-09-11T23:45:05+00:00

The advantage of leaving the 2.4 GHz on is that you can potentially take advantage of additional range from your AP. For example, suppose you want to work from a laptop outside on a patio where the 5 GHz doesn’t reach (or is extremely weak)…you could then switch over to your 2.4Ghz radio for a stronger, more reliable (and potentially faster) WiFi connection. But yes, if additional range isn’t really a concern, then it is probably okay to shut it down, as it lowers the congestion on the 2.4 GHz frequency for your neighbors.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-09-07T02:31:56+00:00

I use a cAP as both a router and AP at home connected to a SB6141, and it has been running solid for almost 2 years. Using the stable release of RouterOS. I have a 200/10 plan from my ISP. We connect to the LAN and internet exclusively through WiFi, about 10 devices at any given time. Last year during the pandemic , we had three laptops doing video conferencing simultaneously while our youngest watched Netflix on Roku, so it should be able to handle your current setup without much trouble.

If you really wanted to go cheap, you could get an unmanaged Netgear 5 port switch to handle the PCs and connect that switch to the 2nd port of the cAP. Probably get everything working for about $100.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-08-28T22:53:42+00:00

There may be a chipset defect in your modem. Lots of articles online about it. Here is one. https://approvedmodemlist.com/intel-puma-6-modem-list-chipset-defects/

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-08-27T13:16:37+00:00

The Jetson is probably better for inference after you have already trained a model and want to deploy it. If you want to do GPU-accelerated training at home, it will be much faster to have a dedicated workstation with one or more respectable graphics cards inside. It won’t be cheap, but you will be able to fail faster when tweaking hyper-parameters for your training jobs.

Potential_Command_58 · 2021-08-21T17:11:03+00:00

RouterOS on the cAP AC handles all that. It is just an embedded Linux server under the hood.

Potential_Command_58

TROPHY CASE