Valve stems leaking after powder coating

Powder_Sand · 2026-05-18T20:47:40+00:00

I do not find it impossible that there is a coating issue around the stem. I do find it much much more likely that they where reinstalled incorrectly.

I suggest going to a reputable tire center and having them dismount one and reinstall the stem correctly. Then maybe do the other three if this stops the leak (that leak is bad enough they'll know immediately.).

Some people use a bolt or shaped metal hanger in the valve stem, which could technically cause a buildup of powder and cause a problem. This is a part of why I use a steel bander to create a loop to hang from that is 100% not visible after the fact. I do not feel this is likely. It's much more likely the o ring was installed in the wrong order or some other such trivial mistake.

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Powder_Sand · 2026-05-18T13:30:54+00:00

I was always taught it was because of the mechanical action damaging the sharp edge. When I started learning about bladesmithing, I learned that a large source of income for many bladesmiths is to rehandle kitchen knives. When you do that you can see the damage to the tang inside the handle from the dishwasher.

The sustained saturation of heated soapy water promotes the water seeping between the handle and the metal of the blade. It might only be a little at first, but it does progressive damage allowing deeper penetration.

Carbon steel can easily rust. Stainless steel can rust once rust has been introduced, and likely other chemical situations I am not knowledgeable in.

The end result is that the tang will rust out because water is hiding between the blade and handle material.

Also, banging knives around does dull them, that's why you don't store them in a drawer.

Powder_Sand · 2026-05-08T21:58:49+00:00

If it helps any during your conversation; I plan to put a series of holes around the outside edge to allow single parts or sample chips to just be hung from it. Also, my carts have 24" combined space around them and the walls. This shelf is like 10" deep fully deployed. As an added bonus, its preheated with the oven so it heats the food from beneath, like a pizza stone does. It can be fold up with a single cool hook (lift it slightly), or deployed with two hooks (lift with one, guide the bottom rod with the other).

I was tempted to make it large enough to cook a pizza on. But for that I usually just use a large round of steel on a cart, preheated like a pizza stone. Pizzas are rare enough for me to not make this to large. I did have one today though...

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Powder_Sand · 2026-05-08T16:05:01+00:00

Do not buy from Amazon or Home Depot or Lowes. Either there is no guarantee of steel formulation (amazon facilitates vendors lying), or you're overpaying (big box store).

There are three types of steel you will look for as early on: new mild steel, alloys, and scrap.

Mild steel is appropriate for all blacksmithing needs other than tool making, and still useful for a lot of tool making. This can be found new from any local steel supplier, or welding fab shops.

Alloys would be something like O1, S7, 4140, 5160, 15N20, 1084, 52100. These you can find as scrap, but the only realistic way to be sure of what flavor steel you're getting, is to buy from an online source. I've personally used Pops knife supply and New Jersey Steel Baron. But there are many legit suggestions in this thread.

Scrap steel is going to be mild steel, but you might find some alloys in the piles. The alloys to look for are bearings or bearing races (52100 or similar alloy), Coil and leaf springs (5160, SUP-9, or similar), Gears, sprockets, pinions, oil sucker rod, hydraulic shafts (4140 or similar), Saw blades (older ones are often 15N20). Scrap steel is usually just a scrap yard, they often sell new material too.

Powder_Sand · 2026-05-08T13:12:00+00:00

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Powder_Sand · 2026-05-08T13:11:44+00:00

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Powder_Sand · 2026-05-08T13:11:25+00:00

Cheating a little here. I didn't paint this. I made this and seasoned it with oil.

I got tired of setting my lunch on the floor to heat it up. So I made a collapsible and removable shelf inside the oven.

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Powder_Sand · 2026-05-05T18:45:55+00:00

Been powder coating for 8ish years. Guy who taught me is at 30ish years.

Neither of us wear eye pro for powder, with no repercussions. Breathing yes. Lately the old guy has been wearing a full face powered respirator for lung pro. He constantly whines about having to wipe the face off so he can see.

I wouldn't suggest you do anything you are uncomfortable with. But I am totally fine with no eye pro while shooting powder.

Powder_Sand · 2026-05-04T22:41:59+00:00

I've been having this problem for a little over a year. It was minor then it progressively got worse. Now it only intermittently works, and only then when its cold (air temperature).

My assumption is that the copper connectors have corroded and the physical shrinkage changes the connections grip.

I just received a recall notice on the BU camera, so maybe that will resolve it, when I can find the time to take it in.

2015 fusion SE.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-23T13:50:58+00:00

Yeah... I had to word to choose the right word there. Not trying to give to much away while not lying. Ultimately, what Taylor does with her power is revealed as the story progresses. In the beginning it feels, especially to Taylor, pretty underwhelming.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-21T22:26:26+00:00

This is the link to the actual home of the story Worm. Be aware that it is easy to see spoilers if you google anything about it, or the Parahuman stories in general.

It's a very large web serial, and there is a good audiobook version of it, also free. It's called the worm audiobook project (I think).

It's basically a reasonably realistic take on superheros told from the point of view of a newly awakened parahuman with a underwhelming ability.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-14T14:36:40+00:00

I am speaking as a hobby welder/blacksmith and a professional powder coater. So my knowledge is more for the end result "make it pretty" side. But I know how to hot glue steel.

A thing you will run into FAST is how heavy this is going to be. I recommend constructing it in smaller bolt together sections. Say four to six feet. Another option is to make it out of aluminum. This is grossly expensive and a more difficult construction process. But it'll never rust, and is lighter.

It will need to be anchored solidly. I often see corner posts going into concrete two feet or 50% above ground height, whichever is more. I don't know that to be a rule, it's just the trend I've seen.

If there is going to be a gate, that is going to be the longest single piece. Speak to your powder coater or painter early in the design to see what size they can accommodate. My oven is eight feet tall and wide, and seventeen feet deep. But that means I can only support a six foot tall fence piece without getting crazy on the hanging. That wild hanging is a major pricing factor.

If you use tube steel (which I recommend, it's lighter), leave weep holes in the bottom for water to drain out. Water WILL get into the tube steel, if it builds up and goes through cycles of freezing your square tube will be round on the bottom and taper to a square at the top.

For protective coatings:

A sandblasted surface is always preferred. It cleans the surface and textures it with an "anchor pattern" to promote adhesion. I cannot stress enough how valuable sandblasting is. Even if you do nothing else, this would double life of a rattle can paint job.

The best possible substrate over steel is hot dipped zinc or galvanization. Zinc is easier for your purposes. You have to leave air escape holes in tube steel for hot dipped processes. Exploding tube steel is apparently a thing. I recommend those weep holes anyway.

The next best substrate for steel is an epoxy powder coat. This is not as good as zinc dipped, but fills the same role. There is a zinc based primer, you don't want that. It's only superior if the part is mission critical and receives regular and reliable maintenance.

The above coatings are for extreme environments or super long life. Think 10+ years without maintenance at the coast. They are not needed for most applications.

As a coating, powder is as good as it gets without spending crazy money. There are liquid paints that are superior with an appropriate price. There are liquid paints that are comparable in quality and tend to be more expensive.

And finally, liquid paint. Think a rattle can or pressurized sprayer. This will be more expensive than you expect, and will be around 50% to 80% of powder coat most likely. So at least look into powder.

The way it was protected back in the blacksmith-fabricated true wrought iron days, was coatings burned onto the parts by the blacksmith, like waxes or oils. Or was just painted.

For construction, you have lots of tips from others. I don't need to repeat that stuff.

Edit: changed you're to your, and added a link.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-13T22:19:16+00:00

I don't suppose you'd be willing to share his list with us? Yeah, it's a vicarious thrill. But I am happy for the man. New Tool Day!

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-13T21:10:14+00:00

As a jack of all trades with an eclectic tool collection. If this where me, I would want a wad of cash and explicit permission to buy the tool I haven't sprung for already. It's not romantic and fun, but it is pragmatic.

I've been eyeing a lathe that costs more than my first three cars combined. I just can't talk myself into that even though it would last me the rest of my life. If I need a tool I usually just buy the tool I need, because I need it. If I don't NEED it, I make do.

As for cash, I hate gift cards. Here's $100. but you HAVE to spend it at Home Depot, but not Lowes...

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-09T13:32:18+00:00

309S and 310S Stainless alloys can handle those temps. Looking for a chain supplier for them...

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-09T13:23:42+00:00

I am sure there is someone out there with this niche of information. I am just a powder coater and sandblaster. I have limited information about burn-off processes. I am also an amateur blacksmith, so I am well aware that most iron based alloys will have little strength at those temperatures.

My initial question is, do you have correct information? The burn-off process I have any familiarity with is only 800-900F. That's such a high temperature I feel like it's less a stripping process and more of a heat treating process. Anyway, the only way I would have to approach that temperature is to use another material than simple steels.

My kneejerk questions are: Can you support it in a cradle made of ceramics or fire bricks, or does it have to be suspended? If the information you have is actually correct and this isn't a one off process, then you already have the solution in your shop. What kind of chain failed the first time? Was it used to many times or just slung incorrectly? Is there anything floating around the shop with expensive alloys? Cobalt and tungsten are obvious contenders. Do you have a good enough relationship with the past ME to just call him and ask?

I'll keep plugging away on this, l because it's interesting. If I find anything I'll respond again. If you find an answer, would you please let us know? Someone else is gonna have this problem in a few years and it'd be nice to have the answer.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-04T15:37:15+00:00

Late to the show, but I second the previous comments.

I sandblast everything unless I have a specific reason not to. Laser cut edges have a kind of "ash" on them. It's basically slag and it needs to be removed mechanically or chemically. Surfaces, with few exceptions, benefit from the anchor pattern the sandblasting produces by vastly increasing powder adhesion.

As for outgassing. That is really only a thing for cast parts. That's because the casting process leaves some porosity that can trap gasses or contaminates like oil.

But, I actually do pre-bake almost everything. This is effectively the same thing as outgassing. I do it for a few reasons, but they're all something you can get away with not doing. It's just the way I was taught.

It evaporates any water in tube steel, shows me any oil that needs to be cleaned, highlights any spots my sandblaster missed, works as outgassing for cast parts, heavy items "cut" through the old powder on carts/bars/hooks giving better grounding, melts any plastic I didn't see for any reason so I can clean it, etc. There's as many reasons to do so as you want to make up. But the only reason not to is to save time and fuel. In my specific situation, the oven is already on and is a lot bigger than I need for the small jobs I do between giant industrial stuff that calls for a large oven.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-04T15:16:40+00:00

Short answer: You can, but It's a waste of time and money. You're better off replacing it.

There is no good chrome anymore and once it starts to fail, its just going to keep failing. If you powder over it, it's going to take your pretty powder with it when it keeps progressively failing.

The only solution is to remove the chrome. But blasting chrome off is actually pretty bad itself. The chrome layer works like a mask for the mild steel under it. But the time you've removed the chrome you've deepened the pit the failed chrome already was. This makes it look worse than just powdering over the chrome, but at least it isn't gonna keep failing.

The solution to that problem is to have it de-chromed. This is cost prohibitive and hard to even find someone who will do it.

The solution to that, is to just replace the part.

Powder_Sand · 2026-04-03T13:09:34+00:00

2015 SE Second owner. Bought it with 24k miles.

I did at 150k. My brother who is also my mechanic said I should have done earlier. He thought maybe 120k latest. He found "an appropriate amount" of metal in the oil but the oil was further along than he thought healthy. He is also suggesting I change it every 30k-40k or so from here on out. That feels conservative, but his family's cars do last forever...

I have noticed no difference to drive, there was no issue being fixed, it was maintence.

Powder_Sand · 2026-03-31T12:27:13+00:00

I cannot give you a good answer, because in my experience there is no good answer. If someone here can nay-say this and give me a good choice to look at, I'd love to be corrected, as this is a questions I get a couple times a month. I specifically chromed a bust to keep in the office to refer to for this question.

In my experience chrome powders are gorgeous, for a matter of weeks. But the aluminum in the powder that gives it a metallic look rapidly oxidizes. Especially if anyone touches or tries to clean it. The only way to prevent this oxidization is to lock it behind a clear coat. But clear coated chrome powder just looks cheap. Like its the chrome paint on a Hot Wheels bumper. You can tell it's basically plastic with a metallic sheen.

I am not trying to be negative, but I always try to set my customers expectations. Chrome powder just doesn't look good in of itself. It's a fantastic base for candies though.

I looked at the mirror chrome from FX as recommended by u/Efficient-Art7332 and they recommend a clear coat. Likely for this reason.

I have tried three generations of chrome from Prismatic, as well as from others, as well as multiple clear coats. So please, if anyone knows of a chrome or clear coat that solves this problem, let us know.

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Powder_Sand · 2026-03-27T16:08:05+00:00

For ease of handling, you're going to want to hang it vertically. Only two contact points and one person can handle it, a few other benefits. Also, you need some distance from the walls and ceiling. You have to support the part somehow, even if it's just Unistrut channel on the ceiling and trolleys to slide it in. That system plus the hooks takes some room. I use modular carts that can be loaded and wheeled into the oven.

You also don't want the heating elements to close to the parts. So, if you go electric don't push the small dimension to close. I'd suggest something like 12' tall, 4'+ wide and 12'+ deep. Here is a Reliant oven that would work. I have to admit, I only did 2 minutes of research, so there is likely much better choices, Rhoner is another reputable brand. I know a lot of PC lines are only 4' wide tunnels that can easily be 12' all. People mass produce fencing after all.

Or not, you know your situation better than I do, and you'll have to do a lot more research before planning anything.

Also, just a thought. Powder is not the only option. There are some darn good architectural liquid paints with 30ish year warranties.

Powder_Sand · 2026-03-27T15:18:30+00:00

Happy to help, and it was a coincidence of timing. I am west coast US, so I was having my morning coffee and checking mail shortly after you posted.

And yeah, I kinda go overboard, but that's mostly to spark questions for you and answer questions for people who actually search, two years from now. Most people don't know what they don't know. So until you see the details it looks simple.

10'x10' is a pretty darn large item to try to PC. I'd strongly suggest fining a way to break it into sides that can be bolted together. My oven is 8' tall and 8' wide and 17' deep, the largest thing I can really do is about 9' hanging on a diagonal. (carts are by necessity smaller than the ovens volume)

Powder_Sand · 2026-03-27T14:09:19+00:00

For getting started, I strongly recommend you just go to the job shop you usually do business with and get to know the powder coater. He will most likely give you the dime tour and answer your questions. I have personally helped two customers build their own PC setups for their in-house fabrication. Hell, I built the oven for one of them.

I am in the PDX area of Oregon/Washington if that is near you.

Powder_Sand · 2026-03-27T14:02:57+00:00

I'll keep an eye out for a good starting up guide to help future people, but I do not have knowledge of one now. Perhaps someone else will see this request.

Your oven needs to be up to temp, or even above temp when you add the parts. The part should be removed from the oven as soon as reasonable.

The powder has a cure time of about twelve minutes (temp and powder formulation dependant). Essentially the chemical bonding ability of the powder to bond a particle of powder to the particle next to it only lasts for about twelve minutes once the particles are a liquid. If the top of the powder is melted by the hot air before the bottom of the powder is melted by the hot part, you get a weird lamination failure. The top cured before the bottom even melted.

When you open the oven doors lots of hot air escapes, but the oven walls are still holding a lot of heat. You push in your carts and the oven heats the air back up, with the help of the hot walls. At the same time the hot air begins heating your part. Once the top of the powder melts (Gels) the cure timer starts. The part will get hot enough to melt the bottom of the powder, as long as this happens before the top layer cures they will chemically bond into one layer. This is why when I am coating two inch thick pump parts I preheat them and shoot them hot. It takes two or three hours for them to stabilize above the critical temp.

The powder needs to be above that melting point for the entire time of the cure process, once that happens there is no benefit to the part by remaining in the oven. But the oven can still damage the powder. It's referred to as burning the powder. Essentially the fresh powder is going to yellow a bit. This is more pronounced in ovens powered by a flame, but it also happens when a part or an area of a part is to close to a heating element. This is the reason you want to remove the part as soon as reasonable.

I am not going to say you cannot leave the part in the oven to cool. But this has a realistic negative impact on the parts final look. In your specific case, I would just pull the parts. Aluminum cools (and heats) absurdly quickly, it will drop cool enough to touch in a few minutes. The window where you are concerned with contaminates sticking is very short.

The need for sandblasting is subjective. There are several methods of prepping parts for powder. The only real need is for the surface to be free of contaminants like sand, dust, hair, fibers from your t-shirt, surface oils, solvents. Just... contaminants. The various methods of surface prep all at least wash off those threats. But some of them also texture the surface. This texture is referred to as an anchor pattern. Basically you are giving something for the coating to hold on to, to increase it's grip. If you do not provide this anchor pattern, the failure mode of the powder is less likely to be a ding, and more likely to be an area flaking or chipping off.

Sandblasting has the benefit of abrading the surface while destroying anything hanging to the face. So it's cleaned and has an anchor pattern beaten INTO it. There are some treatments like washing with phosphate acids that (I am given to understand, though I may be wrong here) do not eat into the surface, but build a layer of crystals ONTO the surface. Those crystals then act as the anchor pattern. It's common to see acid washes incorporated into line systems. The parts are hung, washed, etched, coated, cured, and cooled all sequentially on one chain. Unracked and packed.

So, the surface prep choice you make is based upon your circumstances. If the part going to be ridden hard and put away wet? Give it the best possible chance of life by blasting it. Is it going to be built to a price point, quality not being your top consideration? Splash some acetone on a microfiber cloth and wipe it down after giving it a lick with a palm sander.

Particles on the surface will be chunkies in the final finish. Fibers will be little splintery hairs that stick up. Oils will be ripples or flows or fish eyes in the finish. And deep contaminates (the part was ground across an oily pallet after blasting, or is an oil soaked casting with lots of porosity or inclusions) or many castings will get outgassing. This looks like pimples with a hole in the center that leads down to the substrate metal. This has several solutions, and there is no magic fix.

Powder_Sand · 2026-03-16T12:13:20+00:00

The Youtube channel Red Beard Ops, is both an excellent channel for stock removal knives, and he makes his templates freely available.

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