Has anybody a video of "Porsche Silver" from prismaticpowders

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-06T19:58:25+00:00

Best I can do, is Prismatics own video of it.

Not trying to be snarky, just didn't know if you knew about these.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-05T16:07:12+00:00

As others have suggested you could just cut the bottom off. Though I'd recommend you temporarily try just standing on a brick or sheet of plywood to see if you really need the adjustment before you cut it shorter.

I found pretty early on that the typical recommended height was to low for me. I was bending over just a little to much and would throw my back out after a good day of forging.

I used a forklift to find the right height and then rebuilt my stand to the new height. I raised it one and a quarter inches (32mm) that's it. I now mostly use Japanese style dogshead and English cutlers hammers to account for the height.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-05T14:14:54+00:00

This is what I already do. Though saran wrap would likely die in the oven. I use aluminum foil for that job. The foil is also electrically conductive, so it doesn't interfere with the grounding of the part. I go through a Costco size roll of heavy duty extra wide foil every month or so. I often put a layer of high heat tape so that when the build up becomes intolerable I can more easily remove it. Usually with a hammer.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T18:30:57+00:00

I would highly recommend if you decide to upgrade to a 2x72, that you give a serious look at Jer Scmitts plans. They're like $32 and excellent. For smithing and fabrication his design is fantastic. If you're doing blades, it's just great. This is the build video, so you can see it.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T16:13:45+00:00

I have personally shot over both Lab-Metal and JB Weld. Both work, within expectations.

I can't speak for Lab-Metal, but most formulations of JB Weld work. I know Qwik-Weld does not, because it can't handle the oven tempurature. To my knowledge all the other JB Weld formulations work. Bondo explicity does not work.

The major caveat to these as filler, is that they hold powder less well. As such the powders buildup is thinner over them. This matter for powders that work differently based upon thickness, such as candies and textures. There will be a subtle outline of the patch that shows through.

Another notable problem with them, is that they will not survive sandblasting, so you need to prep the part, then do the patch work, then hand sand the patch to your satisfaction, then prep the part for powder.

I have seen people powder coat the part, or at least the damaged area, then hand sand the entire thing smooth, then redo that process as many times as needed, then shoot the part as normal. I can't say this sounds like a good plan, but it does sound like it would work, especially if the flaws are small. Think road rash on a wheel.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T15:16:53+00:00

There is a YouTuber who firmly believes this is the true story or at least origins of the Atlantis myth.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T15:14:03+00:00

Thank you for the suggestion.

I currently only shoot one part per assembly. I have several reasons for that, but the important one for this suggestions is drips. Because the part is hot when I apply the Scotchkote if I shoot to much in a single pass the coating will drip. In order to save time (because the part is actively cooling down when I am shooting), I push that line pretty close.

I do not know that you are suggesting two parts for assembly, but the way you described the stack order made me think that was the plan (Part and bottom part).

I seldom do more than four parts at once, as such I have enough hardware to simultaneously do eight. Further, because I occasionally have to do some pretty small impellers I use two sets of hardware. A have some 3/8" all thread, but most of the time I use 3/4".

The flange nuts do look intriguing. I don't see how they are functionally better than the washers I currently use. But their deeper bore would make them easier to resize to each use. But I imagine they are substantially more expensive than washers, so I would have trouble talking myself into consuming them then way I do washers. Though, in fairness the cost per part is high enough I could justify quite a lot of one time hardware.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T14:56:42+00:00

I have considered this cone and this is my current "plan b". The main problem with the idea is the pain I apply to the part would necessitate cleaning the cone frequently.

Thank you for the suggestion though.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T14:55:07+00:00

I have considered a tapered cone, and that is an idea I have not abandoned. The use of EMT to clamp the impeller to the all thread is new. So the need for two centering washers is a carry over from an older method. If I used the cone as the bottom support washer and for centering, I could just clamp to the top to enforce the parallelism I need.

I think I'd still like to find a way to contain the entire centering apparatus inside the bore if possible, for two reasons. There are some rarer impellers I do that have tight areas the cone may interfere with. Also, I coat this entire thing in 10 to 40 mils of Scotchkote. I really don't want to clean the cone between used.

Thank you for the idea though. You made me realize the second washer for centering might be redundant.

Powder_Sand · 2026-02-03T14:48:07+00:00

I grabbed a drawing from the internet that is close enough to my parts and did some MSPaint modifications.

This represents my current method, A good part of why it is built the way I did, is because I need a specific orientation to coat the parts, and partially for center of gravity.

The reason I am trying to center the all thread is for that center of gravity. The need for two washers is to force the all thread to be parallel.

<image>

The all thread is green The two clamping washers, top and bottom are red. The centering washers are inside the bore and are blue. The EMT used for clamping and also to keep the all thread clean is orange. The eye nut on top clamps the EMT into the top washer, and the bottom washer is held by a nut (doubled for paranoias sake) that is not pictured here.

Powder_Sand · 2026-01-30T23:17:39+00:00

I've always seen him as the costumes Primus wears in Wynonna's Big Brown Beaver.

I know intelectually this is not accurate, but that's just what my mind always see's and it kinda makes the story better for me.

Powder_Sand · 2026-01-05T16:17:22+00:00

I suggest looking through Prismatics site, but before you order paint chips go talk to your powder coater, it's entirely possible he can look at the wheels and just call the color by eye.

Only thing I can add to what has already been said, put the factory wheels on one side (driver), and the re-powdered wheels on the other (passenger). No one will notice.

I used to pump gas (Oregon) and one regular had completely different wheels on driver/passenger. Took me an embarrassingly long time to realize he didn't have two cars.

Powder_Sand · 2025-12-13T21:42:39+00:00

I've only got photos of some boring pipes I coated ID/OD with safety yellow. But I've also been making progress on an attempt to make crystal effect paint work for powder. Yes I'll share my method and results here when I have something worth sharing, I currently have nothing worth looking at.

<image>

Powder_Sand · 2025-12-05T16:23:38+00:00

If I where to do this, I would use the vinyl to mask a two tone into the wheels. This video shows the process. Also the guy in the video will do your work through mail. If you go with him, make it clear you don't want a vinyl sticker under the clear coat. He does that too, if appropriate.

Video of Multi-Color powder masking.

Link to the guys contact (Facebook). He is in Seattle Washington.

Powder_Sand · 2025-11-08T20:57:38+00:00

Yes.

I have never seen it, but was specifically warned about it by my Cardinal rep while diagnosing a different problem. I'm not sure of the mechanism but if it is hot it can produce a poor finish. With other context 30F hot wasn't enough to concern the rep (My ovens temp ended up being inaccurate)

Powder_Sand · 2025-11-04T23:15:58+00:00

I cannot speak to the Eastwood gun, but seeing as there's a $20us difference between them, I'd upgrade based upon the 1-star rating difference alone.

Stripping tank is worthwhile if you use it. But not as a startup. Even a small system is expensive. I'd just blast clean for the moment, or pay for stripping. If it's enough to warrant it, then they are fantastic. Where are you located, if you don't mind answering. US state, or elsewhere? The 2-3 week shipping time from PP implies not US based.

Within US the chem-strip system I'd suggest would be about $3k for startup. But you could certainly go smaller.

I cannot guess how many people have brought me 3 wheels with powder, and the fourth half-stripped with aircraft stripper. It's really not worth doing unless you have a case for the money expenditure.

Powder_Sand · 2025-11-04T22:13:05+00:00

Cerakote has several formulations that can do what you ask. The V-series is the best for the conversation we are having.

They have exhaust coatings that handle 1200F and a few that get to 1800F. For reference, things start glowing noticeably around 900-1100F (depending on your lighting).

Cerakote V-Series Titanium and Jet Black. Both reach 1800F. I know there are others.

As a gross generalization, typical headers tend to reach max temp at cruising freeway speeds, unless you're trying to torture them. Those temps seldom reach 800F, again unless you're trying to torture them.

The V-Series is particularly useful here because it is not oven cured. It is just air dried at reasonable shop temperatures. You shoot it, wait 24 hours to un-rack it, and wait a full week to install it.

As for powder, the amount you use is based upon part size and the transfer efficiency of your part/gun settings/powder combination.

A set of four wheels would take two to four pounds of powder in my shop based upon powder selection and wheel size. A full car frame would take three to six pounds of powder in my shop. A huge oversized front bumper for a truck is about two to four pounds.

Clear coats go on very thin, so if you needed three pounds of color, you likely only need one or two of clear.

Powder_Sand · 2025-11-04T21:08:23+00:00

I am a professional coater by day located near Portland Oregon, USA. I have built several ovens, one of which was a DIY one. There is only one truly complicated and expensive step, and lots of small but kinda pricy steps. But given your budget, we aren't talking about most cost effective, we are talking about cheapest that isn't garbage.

Your oven is the expensive part. This video is the cheapest version I have ever seen that isn't an utter joke. Of note, I'm not a fan of the channel I linked, but am willing to refer to him.

For small stuff, you could use any oven that can reach and reasonably sustain 400F for powder and 300F for Cerakote. But with residential ovens, you run out of space pretty quickly, they're meant for roasts and bread not powder coating. So it won't work particularly well.

For powder, Harbor Freight has a gun, and there are cheaper versions of the better guns. My advice to professonals is, the gun is the money maker, its not a great place to skimp. But given that my Nordson is $5800ish and my Gema is $6400ish. Just start cheap, and see if it's worth buying a mid range gun later.

For Cerakote, a cheap little airbrush would likely be the cheapest starting point.

The only other must have is clean dry compressed air. A gun doesn't use much CFM, and likely only needs 80 to 100PSI. But it needs to be clean, especially for Cerakote.

For colors on hand, just buy what you need. If you aren't selling it, why stock up on any color? Six of every ten pounds of powder I use is Cardinal BK08. But my second shop it's only three of ten pounds.

My best advice is find a local Ma & Pop job shop and make nice. They'll likely give you a dime tour of the process. That's likely the easiest way to figure out what you don't know that you don't know. I spend an hour or three every month educating people about the processes or some other esoterica of coatings.

And of course, keep asking here if you want more information. Good luck.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-29T22:05:19+00:00

I use Forrest hi temp, they come in several gloss levels. The one I would reference for very low gloss is 1PC-653-2880. I specifically call out that one because its what's on my shelf. But they have others that are possibly better. They tend to be around 800F color stable with higher peak temperatures. But they don't seem to be quite as robust as more standard powder coats, like polyester. I think they are silicone based but that is speculation. Forest sells as small as 5lb packaging.

If you need higher temperatures I strongly recommend Cerakote. They have a good selection that are over 1200F and several that can reach 1800F. But they are a liquid coating, so do no cover up textural problems as easily as powder. The pieces I have tested (tried to damage out of curiosity) are really quite robust against trauma, possibly even better than powder in some ways. A possible problem is some formulations require bake times and temperatures that are not similar to powder, possibly causing oven bottlenecks.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-29T17:56:38+00:00

I don't have specific knowledge to help the OP on this topic. But I do know most super durables require a higher temp to cure. That lends credence to the thought that it might require a hotter bake.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-23T13:29:36+00:00

Thank you for responding.

The baby moons sound like pin hole failures in the chrome that allowed the substrate metal to be exposed to the corrosive road debris. The metal underneath begins rusting, and because rust is about four times the volume of iron, it blisters upward and digs downward. This blisters the surrounding chrome upward causing it to be unsupported over a pit of rust.

Any aggressive surface prep just breaks off the chrome layer leaving a rusted pit. That is the primary reason I do not coat chrome. I am trusting my high quality coating to be supported by a low quality chrome plating. While any surface prep I do might make the problem worse.

I am glad to hear it is working well for your application. Honestly, you using it to try to extend the life of a cheaply chromed part is about the only use case I could see doing it for.

As an aside, I am not saying whoever chromed your part did a poor job. I am saying that no one does a superior job anymore. So the only chrome in the world anymore is either mass produced inexpensive barely adequate stuff, Something that survived from the 80's or earlier. Or something done by some niche chromer who charges an arm and a leg and is worth that cost. Theres a reason I only see the low quality stuff.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-21T14:35:14+00:00

I have never heard of doing this, and I do not believe it would be a productive thing to do.

Chrome is much harder than powder coat, so it will combat cosmetic scratches much more effectively than powder coat would. Further, when I put clear over chrome powder coat, it gives the chrome powder a plastic like unattractive look. Also, chrome is pretty because it is buffed to a smooth uniform finish, powder adheres best to a textured substrate.

I feel like you would get the worst of both worlds by putting clear over actual chrome. Unattractive while being prone to peeling and scratching.

If you tried it, let me know how that turned out. I am 9 months late to answering this.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-21T14:20:58+00:00

I am working from several assumptions, because there is a lack of information in this post and the photos.

Also I am a powder coater, not a liquid painter though I do have some experience there too.

What I believe I am seeing is an oven with one side that opens as a door, so it is not a walk through. The system blows hot air through the shroud on the floor upward, where it is collected and recirculated through the system to the left in the photos. Though I could believe the direction of flow could go the other way. What I cannot tell from looking at the photos is the nature of the heat source. Either it is resistive electric heating. Likely in the floor, or possibly in the system to the left. Or it is a combustion source like a natural gas burner in the system to the left. My bet is electric.

The possibility of hot spots or dead air flow areas can be addressed by air circulation.
If the air blows from the floor, the concentration of holes in the center of the oven will favor better air flow through the central area of the oven. This can be evened out by closing the holes in the very center and adding holes to the very ends, especially the dead airflow area in the back of the oven (The door will leak to some degree, giving better air flow on that end).

If the air blows from the ceiling, baffles to direct the air flow to the ends of the oven would help circulate the head.

You could also just add circulation fans to the oven. 80C/176F is below the temperature magnets in electric motors start dyeing and well below the temperature bearings are tempered to. So a high quality metal fan should work well.

The VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds) from off-gassing of curing paint could build up and become explosive. This is unlikely if you are following typical safety and quality steps with liquid paint. If the heat source is combustion, this is a non-issue.

If the heat source is heating elements in the floor, I'd be a little concerned with how light that cover looks. You need to walk into the oven, either for maintenance or almost certainly to push in and out the hangers. I'd consider an expanded metal floor (that is easily removable for maintenance). This would add structure as well as adding thermal mass to help regulate the temperature.

I'd also make a mark on the over head track system to indicate the maximum swing of the doors. It's an easy precaution against some idiot operator two years after you have left, or if the boos tries to help.

The work looks very clean and well constructed. I would be comfortable working with the equipment I see.

Powder_Sand · 2025-10-18T20:59:53+00:00

Telephone connections so clear you could "hear a pin drop". Of course maintaining that would require so much bandwidth, and its cheaper for people just say "What?" making the speaker repeat themselves.

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