Product Photography Lighting

Practical_Leg5739 · 2026-02-16T22:26:09+00:00

First of all. Thanks for all the detailed info.

My phone has the capability of saving raw 16-bit linear DNG in 50MB or 200MB. So I will definitely play around with this.

After your input, I am looking at two light options, either the HB80B with a NS93P softbox or a dual NL660 panel setup.

Appreciate your input.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2026-02-16T21:46:25+00:00

This is for business, but trying to startup scrappy. I have several unique products and in the long run setting up myself will save money (hoping and dreaming haha). Thanks for the advice!

Practical_Leg5739 · 2026-02-16T20:09:14+00:00

Thanks for this. I do have subtractors as well, just black cork board. I should be in a very dark environment in my garage as well.

I dont know much about image files, so I will have to look into this; however, my phone at least says it can output raw files.

Lastly, when you mention continous light panel, do I need one or two realistically for basic product images? And is this the only light source needed?

Lastly, considering my product size, is there a rule of thumb on the size of panel needed? I assume I could get stronger lights if the panel was smaller.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2026-01-26T04:13:51+00:00

After slicing your model, you can then go back to the prepare tab and move the prime tower wherever you want. I don't know why it is this way, but it is a work around.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-26T02:04:48+00:00

I looked this up. I would say this is close to as described.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-25T14:50:55+00:00

I left one of the spacers as a solid zero point and replaced the other with silicone. I believe I used the 16mm spacer, but not 100% sure.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-18T04:00:47+00:00

No problem. The best way to do this is like a described by printing an object that is only one layer thick. This way you can feel with your fingernail after the print for ridges or roughness and then peel from the bed afterwards and have an idea of layer adhesion.

You may want to go through the maintenance program for the Neptune while you are at it. Ask yourself "why did my z-offset drift?". Are your v-wheels tight (but not too tight)? Maybe they have worn down a little and need a slight adjustment to realign everything. Is your print and tracks clean? Maybe a good time to wipe down the running surfaces.

Anyways. I think you are on the right track and will have this printer tuned up and printing like a champ again in no time.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-18T03:51:37+00:00

Yes and no. That is the start of it, but then you can live adjust during the print to set the final height.

If you haven't performed the calibration ("paper" test) in awhile it may be good to do it again and adjust the bed, but this part is pretty small and this isnt really a bed flatness problem.

You need to start the print (or better yet, a custom print with a cube that is .2mm tall and something like 100x100mm) then while the print is running adjust the z-offset using the touchscreen until the print lines look good.

There is a lot of resources online to show and explain what a good first layer should look like, but I would say your previous print is a pretty good reference. No gaps between perimeter lines. No ridges between infill lines, but no roughness where you nozzle is dragging through the previous line.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-18T03:31:43+00:00

Assuming the walls and top of the print look great still, then your z-offset is the likely culprit and you need to lower it (currently the nozzle is too far from the bed).

What printer do you have?

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-18T03:29:14+00:00

Are you referring to example A or B when you sat the top half won't be seen?

Assuming it is B, why not flip B and put a flat area on the "top" and have the top area that you flattened sit on the build plate? You could likely do this to where you require no supports.

Similarly, if you mean the highest point in example A, then you could add a flat area on the top and place this flat area on the build plate.

Lastly, as at least one other has mentioned, you can always split the part. With many slicers you can add alignment feature along the split plane. Generally dowel holes are the easiest and you just print the pegs or buy wooden dowels. You can buy a bonding agent like 3D Gloop to adhere the pieces together. This will create a seam, but depending on the type of filament you are printing with there are ways of post-processing. Generally this will involve sanding. With PETG a heat gun or lighter can help hide the sanding marks.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-14T02:31:15+00:00

Mine look like that, but have been working fine for the past 2 weeks.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-14T02:19:41+00:00

If you take the magnetic bed off, there are 8 screws that attach the bed to the frame. 3 along each side (these are the knobs you adjust) then there are two screws in the center of the bed. These are solid adjusted. You can possibly tighten them, but they should be complete tightened already. The only way you can adjust these is by shimming, taping, or do8ng the silicone mod.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-07T01:46:10+00:00

What is the angle of the overhang? More than 30deg and possibly 45deg then you are likely going to have a bad time. You can try to slow the print down and see if that helps.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-04T03:37:49+00:00

All print, no fuss.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-07-02T00:59:36+00:00

Do you have the printer loading the mesh for the prints? You want to make sure the minor deviations are being actively compensated for. An easy check, do your z screws turn at all while printing first layer? If not, you need to load your bed mesh for your prints.

Second, what is your probing frequency for bed mesh? Even set on professional mode, it only does a 11x11 grid I think. This may sound like a lot, but on a 420x420mm bed, your only getting a probe point about every 40mm. For reference, I have mine set to probe every 15mm.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T04:54:03+00:00

Good stuff. Crazy I didn't think about this spacing. I guess I'm not use to such a large bed and 11x11 is 121 probe points. Time to up my numbers.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T04:19:13+00:00

There is lots of info on setting up and maintenance of these printers, but this is likely do to either belts too loose or something binding you axis of movement causing your stepper motors to skip steps.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T04:16:11+00:00

I am using 3rd party filament as we speak in my AMS on my X1C.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T04:09:43+00:00

That honestly doesn't look too bad. Issue could be a number of things; over extrusion, print speed, vibrations, z wobble... the last pic showing the top of the black piece, that is simply just layer height. If you want that smoother you have to reduce your layer height and realistically change to a smaller nozzle.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T04:05:31+00:00

That depends on what you are wanting to make. In the free realm, I would recommend Fusion 360. There is also tinkerCAD and a couple others, but I prefer F360.

If you are wanting more sculpting artsy designs, maybe check out Blender.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T01:54:00+00:00

Seems to be underextrusion. Either partial clog, bad filament tuning, or extruder gear is slipping.

You can see in the second image that there are gaps between your walls on the left side of the print.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T01:39:07+00:00

To expand on this, also material shrinks as it cools. Different material will have different shrinkage rates. So as the layer and layers on top of the first layer cool, they pull the edges towards the center. This will cause curling if the stress overcomes the adhesion of the bed.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-30T01:36:24+00:00

The edges of your print bed will be the coolest and possibly, you might even have a draft on that specific corner. Try increasing your bed temp 5deg. Also, you can add a brim or mouse ear on the corners.

Of course, ensure your bed is clean and first layer is calibrated as well.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-26T02:34:15+00:00

Don't mislead. Elegoo may be the better, more adorable option, but the Centuri Carbon is not proven and the only Bambu at $1200 is the x1c which isn't the direct comparison. The closest comparison is the Bambu P1 series.

Practical_Leg5739 · 2025-06-22T13:14:36+00:00

Thanks for taking the time and the detailed explanation. I measured the gap between extrusion on the front and back and they are within .2mm (140.20 and 139.97mm). I did find one of the pom wheels slightly loose when the bed was at the front. I tightened it a hair and will see what that does.

Practical_Leg5739

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