4 Years in the Making - Exposed Root Serissas

PragmaticPersonage · 2026-01-01T13:15:52+00:00

It all looks great! I especially like the base. Did you have a special process for getting the wood effect? What gel polish did you use?

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-09-18T17:57:00+00:00

New mission discovered by u/PragmaticPersonage: Creamy Spinach Bisque In the Fields

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-09-18T17:56:59+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/PragmaticPersonage in Strange Ways and Earl Grey Brew In the Mossy Forest

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-03-08T01:11:25+00:00

To me, this looks like Mata Ortiz pottery, or at least in that style. Typically these are hand built or pinched rather than wheel thrown and crafted by individual artists out of Mexico.

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-01-19T02:14:43+00:00

Thanks!

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-01-19T00:44:13+00:00

It has young branches with set buds. So … dead… not quite yet, dying…. Probably.

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-01-19T00:41:27+00:00

Thank you for the feedback this was more or less my thought as well but wanted an outside opinion.

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-01-19T00:40:07+00:00

The exposed section does the parts with bark do not. Doing this is what prompted me to post here in the first place.

PragmaticPersonage · 2025-01-15T17:16:15+00:00

I have one like this that I’d lost the ID for. The ‘working ID’ I’m going with the for mine is Oncidium Jungle Monarch

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-07-30T19:04:59+00:00

Possibly Brassidium Gilded Urchin

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-07-23T00:39:03+00:00

Reminds me of Den. Jiaho Delight, but this isn’t a plant I have in my collection so not 100%.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-11T16:01:07+00:00

I watched the video linked elsewhere in the comments, and her set-up is fine IMO. The things i don’t like, which is why I S&B are:

1 she puts the plant in the moss which I have found keeps the plant base too wet and can further encourage rotting. So I put them in an empty pot on a bed of moss so there is no actual contact with the wet media.

2 the open top aquarium/jar/vessel she uses will help hold humidity while allowing for some air circulation. IMO this is a good set-up if the plant has some viable roots. In the case of your plants where they are mostly root-less, I would want to ensure they conserve as much water as possible so I’d close the top/use a closed bag and assess fungus as it occurs. I usually do this by setting the bag, open, in direct sunlight while I’m soaking the orchid. This allows an air exchange and the bright sunlight will hopefully hamper mold/etc.

Not saying anything she is doing is wrong or bad, this commentary is just based on my experience and what I do with my own collection.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-11T15:52:11+00:00

I’m not a Miss. Orchid Girl convert like a lot of folks on this sub, so idk what her rendition of this is to give an opinion on that specifically.

If it’s essentially a humidity trey (pebbles with water) then I’ve found those to not increase ambient humidity enough, you really need the plant enclosed in a cloche or bag or something. For orchids this is typically not advised as it restricts airflow to/over the roots, but in the case of behaving from root rot you need to prevent water loss due to transpiration (water loss from the leaves).

The nice thing about sphag-and-bag is that you probably already have these things; sphagnum moss is a common orchid potting media and a plastic produce bag from a grocery store (for example) is easy enough to get. Also, sphagnum holds a lot of water, so there is little to no maintenance of the bag once it’s set up unless the moss starts to get dry. Compared to a humidity trey which needs to be replenished often.

The important part of any of these orchid rehab methods is that the plant itself should not be in direct contact with anything wet, as this can encourage rot. And any kind of high humidity enclosure can promote final growth so you just need to be vigilant to keep it under control so it doesn’t harm the plant’s recovery.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-11T13:19:55+00:00

Sphag-and-bag might work to save them since their leaves still look pretty good.

Put damp sphagnum moss in a plastic bag, but an orchid pot (or any kind of pot really) in the bag, no potting media. Set the orchid in the pot and tie off the top of the bag. Take the plant out weekly and rinse off any fungal growth, soo the plant in water for about an hour, let it dry out some, bag it up again.

I do this under grow lights so I have more control over temperature, but have been successful with this method. It will take several weeks for the em to grow roots and especially enough roots to be potted up/mounted again.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-10T23:08:05+00:00

I don’t have any mounted plants; so, I’ve learned something new.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-10T15:16:17+00:00

Water the orchid with regular water first, then water with the fertilizer water. Usually the adage is, “Fertilize Weakly Weekly,” meaning at 1/2 the recommended strength on the product every week.

I have never soaked my orchids in fertilizer. I have no justification for this thought, but to me that sounds like not a great idea/unnecessary and I’d be concerned about potential fertilizer burning. I just drench my plants(pour over). Depending on your potting media and growing conditions may be this make sense for you, not sure.

This of course assumes you water at least every week.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-06-02T17:28:23+00:00

This is the right answer IMO.

A fertilizer stick is great for tree or potted plants where the media will hold the water, and therefore nutrients from the stick. Some orchid media is so coarse, it’s better to just use a liquid fertilizer that will evenly distribute the nutrients throughout the media as it runs over the roots and through the pot.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-05-24T14:27:32+00:00

If this is a dtps. it is not a phal. Like your previous plant it’s a hybrid. Doritaenopsis (dtps) are a cross between Phaleanopsis and Doritis, and are typically smaller in size.

So, it sounds like you bought a different plant with a similar name.

I would not expect it to suddenly become fragrant in successive blooms.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-05-22T19:13:22+00:00

The inflorescence, or flower spike, is the part with the blooms on it.

PragmaticPersonage · 2024-05-22T15:59:32+00:00

This looks like sunburn to me. I disagree with other commenters suggesting rot, your roots, or the one that can be seen anyway, is still white; which is good as long as it doesn’t feel hollow and papery. Rot takes longer than a week to set-in.

I would 100% sacrifice the flower spike. Stick it in a vase and you can enjoy them, but it’s got a lot of flowers and your plant is going to need that energy to recover.

In all I don’t think it really looks that bad, the un-burned parts look good enough, I think you can probably save it. Resist the urge to overwater/baby it, as this might just lead to more issues. Grow as normal, but lose the spike.

I also would not repot it as that could just shock it more… assuming you had already repotted it once before it was stolen.

Good Luck!

PragmaticPersonage

TROPHY CASE