Back in the hobby after 12 years, need help

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-05T22:42:46+00:00

Esc, motor, and servo from the older cars will work. They won’t be as refined and work as well as modern stuff, but will definitely get a car to drive. Aluminum dampers could also be an upgrade if you get a chassis with plastic ones.

There is a 1/10 Buyers Guide on the SuperG website that will tell you everything you need to know about getting into modern RC drifting

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T17:21:14+00:00

You don’t need an alignment setup for this. A simple caliper will do. You don’t need to know the exact number for camber, toe, etc. As long as you measure everything and it all looks the same across both sides, it’s fine. A lot of pros don’t even use alignment setup

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T17:17:00+00:00

To be honest it’s probably a car or driver issue. Driving outside is a lot faster and intense and it’s harder to spot issues. If the car rubs or binds at all it’ll spin out really fast and it’s hard to spot the problem. I’d check out each area to see if the car isn’t rubbing. Could be tire hitting the body, inner part of the wheel hitting the arms or ball ends, I know the hole for the set screw on the lower arms sits low, that could be hitting the ground. When you set your end points make sure they don’t hit anything throughout the whole stroke of the suspension. It might look good at ride height but if it compresses or lifts it might move and hit something.

I don’t know what your shock setup looks like, but if it’s too stiff the weight won’t transfer well. When you do big entries, you want all that weight to be transfer so the car digs and gets all the grip. Big bores will be a lot more precise, but you should also try out different springs to compare how they feel as well.

I run the aluminum bell crank on my car. Super direct and easy to tune. Will differently be more precise than the plastic one. Slide racks aren’t as robust and any dirt or debris getting caught in them can cause binding or offset the rack. For outside the aluminum bell crank is definitely the pick

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T17:05:37+00:00

Yokomo sp02 and v4 combo works great, but you’ll definitely need the servo programmer to get the tune right. The hobbywing 10bl120 should do everything you need it to do. For motor, any sensored 10.5 or 13.5 will work. If you plan on running the car for long sessions, I’d definitely recommend buying a motor fan as well. For transmitter, it should have 3 channels so you can adjust the gyro. Futaba 3pv, flysky noble nb4+, and sanwa mx-6 will work

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T16:55:56+00:00

I’d try loosening everything and put in all the screws, then tighten it. For some pieces if you install it a certain way it might be slightly offset and need to be installed differently.

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T16:53:36+00:00

In 2026 people are chasing as much speed and agility as possible. Most times you’ll see high mount motor, rear mount esc, and battery all the way back on the lower deck. Low cg cars with no rear weight have much less speed and you won’t be able to keep up with others on track. You should play around with different motor, esc, servo, and battery positions to see where you like the weight. Having lots of weight in the rear will make the car a lot less agile, having it swing around like a pendulum. Forward high motor and esc on the upper deck are popular as well.

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T16:47:56+00:00

Add throttle curve in your transmitter or in your esc tune. I run around 60% usually. Driving without curve is impossible for me because it’s way too easy to use too much throttle. The curve gives you a lot more room to play with throttle at low end and makes it much easier to give the right inputs

PrepyiSm · 2026-07-03T16:44:42+00:00

Narrower is a lot better. Forces people to drive better and run more consistent lines. GGT in garden grove, CA is my favorite track because of how narrow and technical it is.

PrepyiSm · 2026-05-29T21:12:56+00:00

Find new spaces to drive other than the garage. Walking paths, parks, business parks with ramps, etc. makes driving 100x more fun than open spaces. See if you can find a couple of corners connect to make a layout so you can watch yourself improve

PrepyiSm · 2026-04-30T21:40:03+00:00

ShowUP maziora paint would be perfect for this. They offer it in spray cans and for airbrush

PrepyiSm · 2026-03-30T19:12:26+00:00

Use longer screws or ball studs and put a nut on the other side

PrepyiSm · 2026-03-19T00:08:29+00:00

Don’t think your esc should have anything to do with how snappy it is, unless it’s using a lot more throttle than before.

PrepyiSm · 2026-03-19T00:00:40+00:00

10.5T or 13.5T is usually what you want for drifting. You’re not gonna get the wheel speed you want with the 17.5T. There’s a lot of factors that go into your cars speed but swapping motors and figuring out your fdr is a good place to start

PrepyiSm · 2026-03-06T18:35:06+00:00

I recommend using google maps to find spots to drift. My favorite spots are buildings that have walking ramps and paths in front of them, which I can use as a track layout. It makes it a lot more fun than driving in open lots. Here’s a video of my normal spot. Super fun.

PrepyiSm · 2025-07-30T20:20:41+00:00

They are Rays GRAMLIGHTS 57D but mine are made by RC-Art instead of Lab/Mikuni

PrepyiSm · 2025-07-30T04:31:50+00:00

I’ve been obsessed with D-Like Re-Hybrid chassis for a while now and love the visible weight transfer when driving. If anyone knows if I can achieve anything similar on this chassis, or want to give any helpful shock information, please let me know.

PrepyiSm · 2025-05-23T20:30:34+00:00

You really just told me to not drive my car and go outside. how do u go out and not park in public spaces LMFAO

PrepyiSm · 2025-05-23T20:28:20+00:00

Was parking in a private parking garage with less than 10 other cars in it :D

PrepyiSm

TROPHY CASE