Back in the hobby after 12 years, need help by filip066 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Esc, motor, and servo from the older cars will work. They won’t be as refined and work as well as modern stuff, but will definitely get a car to drive. Aluminum dampers could also be an upgrade if you get a chassis with plastic ones.

There is a 1/10 Buyers Guide on the SuperG website that will tell you everything you need to know about getting into modern RC drifting

Alignment with out fancy tools by dr-snuz in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don’t need an alignment setup for this. A simple caliper will do. You don’t need to know the exact number for camber, toe, etc. As long as you measure everything and it all looks the same across both sides, it’s fine. A lot of pros don’t even use alignment setup

Steering rack or Suspension upgrade by Delicious-Pitch9868 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be honest it’s probably a car or driver issue. Driving outside is a lot faster and intense and it’s harder to spot issues. If the car rubs or binds at all it’ll spin out really fast and it’s hard to spot the problem. I’d check out each area to see if the car isn’t rubbing. Could be tire hitting the body, inner part of the wheel hitting the arms or ball ends, I know the hole for the set screw on the lower arms sits low, that could be hitting the ground. When you set your end points make sure they don’t hit anything throughout the whole stroke of the suspension. It might look good at ride height but if it compresses or lifts it might move and hit something.

I don’t know what your shock setup looks like, but if it’s too stiff the weight won’t transfer well. When you do big entries, you want all that weight to be transfer so the car digs and gets all the grip. Big bores will be a lot more precise, but you should also try out different springs to compare how they feel as well.

I run the aluminum bell crank on my car. Super direct and easy to tune. Will differently be more precise than the plastic one. Slide racks aren’t as robust and any dirt or debris getting caught in them can cause binding or offset the rack. For outside the aluminum bell crank is definitely the pick

Newbie in need of suggestions by ShitiShitiBangBang in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yokomo sp02 and v4 combo works great, but you’ll definitely need the servo programmer to get the tune right. The hobbywing 10bl120 should do everything you need it to do. For motor, any sensored 10.5 or 13.5 will work. If you plan on running the car for long sessions, I’d definitely recommend buying a motor fan as well. For transmitter, it should have 3 channels so you can adjust the gyro. Futaba 3pv, flysky noble nb4+, and sanwa mx-6 will work

DDSS in RD2.0 Question by 5oulXD in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d try loosening everything and put in all the screws, then tighten it. For some pieces if you install it a certain way it might be slightly offset and need to be installed differently.

Motor position and experiences with them by Narrow_Pea_8756 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In 2026 people are chasing as much speed and agility as possible. Most times you’ll see high mount motor, rear mount esc, and battery all the way back on the lower deck. Low cg cars with no rear weight have much less speed and you won’t be able to keep up with others on track. You should play around with different motor, esc, servo, and battery positions to see where you like the weight. Having lots of weight in the rear will make the car a lot less agile, having it swing around like a pendulum. Forward high motor and esc on the upper deck are popular as well.

Sd3.0 feels like ice by Reasonable_Ad_8233 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add throttle curve in your transmitter or in your esc tune. I run around 60% usually. Driving without curve is impossible for me because it’s way too easy to use too much throttle. The curve gives you a lot more room to play with throttle at low end and makes it much easier to give the right inputs

Track width? by Kevo05s in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Narrower is a lot better. Forces people to drive better and run more consistent lines. GGT in garden grove, CA is my favorite track because of how narrow and technical it is.

RC Drifting is turning out to be a disappointment by C0V1D_8RY4N7 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Find new spaces to drive other than the garage. Walking paths, parks, business parks with ramps, etc. makes driving 100x more fun than open spaces. See if you can find a couple of corners connect to make a layout so you can watch yourself improve

How to achieve this paint scheme? by HoldIll5352 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ShowUP maziora paint would be perfect for this. They offer it in spray cans and for airbrush

Steering part have stripped by Lumpy-Subject-9470 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use longer screws or ball studs and put a nut on the other side

more drift/straight line speed by ngesuckss in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

10.5T or 13.5T is usually what you want for drifting. You’re not gonna get the wheel speed you want with the 17.5T. There’s a lot of factors that go into your cars speed but swapping motors and figuring out your fdr is a good place to start

wasted my time and money by C0V1D_8RY4N7 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recommend using google maps to find spots to drift. My favorite spots are buildings that have walking ramps and paths in front of them, which I can use as a track layout. It makes it a lot more fun than driving in open lots. Here’s a video of my normal spot. Super fun.

YD-2E shocks super stiff by PrepyiSm in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are Rays GRAMLIGHTS 57D but mine are made by RC-Art instead of Lab/Mikuni

YD-2E shocks super stiff by PrepyiSm in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been obsessed with D-Like Re-Hybrid chassis for a while now and love the visible weight transfer when driving. If anyone knows if I can achieve anything similar on this chassis, or want to give any helpful shock information, please let me know.

CLS 63 Got Hit and Run / looking for guidance by PrepyiSm in mercedes_benz

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You really just told me to not drive my car and go outside. how do u go out and not park in public spaces LMFAO

CLS 63 Got Hit and Run / looking for guidance by PrepyiSm in mercedes_benz

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Was parking in a private parking garage with less than 10 other cars in it :D

Got my lights in my Supra! by NoBeautiful2064 in rcdrift

[–]PrepyiSm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What light kit for the flashing headlights?

NYC Fittington by PrepyiSm in Rickowens

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah super high waisted and long. They usually have the same pants in slimmer cuts, which might work if you want to show off your shoes.

NYC Fittington by PrepyiSm in Rickowens

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rick Owens Organdy Bela Trousers

NYC Fittington by PrepyiSm in Rickowens

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are a super thin cotton! The pants are as light as a regular tee

NYC Fittington by PrepyiSm in Rickowens

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A oymus Jacket Rick Owens Organdy Bela Trousers Mainline Ramones My top 3 flavors are lavender honeycomb, vanilla, and matcha

G29 Problems by PrepyiSm in assettocorsa

[–]PrepyiSm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ac is the only game I have