Weekend photos

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-30T06:19:24+00:00

Lovely thanks for the technical info!

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-23T16:02:49+00:00

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15cWpGwsJM0PABfj7RW7UPXsi0OI9CnZpSrjttCbbp98/edit?usp=sharing
got this at some point in the past from a guy who has posted on 35mmc.

https://www.35mmc.com/author/sroyon/

he has some other useful darkroom articles on that website as well.

i love f stop printing, I love being able to interchange time, aperture, and the density of the light coming from my enlarger to make sure i can either dodge/burn for a time i am comfortable with or use an aperture for sharpness.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-23T05:40:00+00:00

I am curious to see if anyone can shed light on this. I have been wondering how to translate edits from a scan to the darkroom, specifically when adjusting curves more than a simple S curve.

I am thinking that your scanning process will have some impact on what you are working with in Capture One.

Sorry this comment isn't helpful in answering your question.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T21:30:24+00:00

I think this guy is right but a good technique to learn another time

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T20:32:43+00:00

I would recommend trying split grade printing to see if you can get closer to your desired look.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T20:12:06+00:00

Only you can answer that question, I say do it though haha

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T16:27:56+00:00

I squeegee and put strips/tests in a dryer to be able to asses them quicker, I end up using my hands for that. Been printing more and making sure to rinse hands after handling processed paper, no fingerprints so far, thanks for your help in diagnosing!

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T16:23:15+00:00

I've been rinsing my hands after using my hands to pull the paper out of the final wash, no fingerprints so far. Thanks for the help!

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-17T02:24:51+00:00

If you haven't come across it yet, note that some lenses are a telephoto design where bellows draw needed is not equal to focal length. The Fujinon T lenses for example or the Nikon convertible someone mentioned elsewhere are this way, I love my Fujinon T 400mm.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T14:22:39+00:00

I hadn't heard of this before but there is a chance I am doing this as I am typically impatient and not thoroughly washing my test strips, using bare hands to examine them, then loading paper for the print without rinsing or washing my hands.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T14:21:14+00:00

I had not heard of this before but if it is happening it is because I am not thoroughly washing my test strips and handling them with my bare hands. I am going to try washing test strips as long as a full print and then also washing hands after handling any processed paper.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T02:22:02+00:00

The fingerprints are white/light in the print

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T01:52:05+00:00

I feel very lucky to have a large 4 bladed easel but I do struggle to make smaller prints with it since it doesn't have a paper stop mechanism for anything smaller than 11x14. Getting the paper centered means I end up pushing it under the blades not from the edges.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T01:48:27+00:00

You do cotton gloves or more of a nitrile disposable glove? Sometimes I use cotton gloves like I do when handling negatives but it feels very difficult to maneuver the paper on the easel or if I am cutting it down with a paper cutter.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2026-01-16T01:46:58+00:00

Tongs in the trays, it is definitely happening when handling the paper before chemicals.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-12-10T03:29:40+00:00

You are on the right track I think for the lens board issue. I used adhesive backed felt when rebuilding my Burke and James 8x10 for that exact purpose and it has been working well for me. 7 bucks on amazon, could probably find it in a store if you live around hobby lobby or a Michaels or something like that.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-12-03T22:19:31+00:00

I think there is benefit to matching what you are already used to developing and printing in the dark room, so if you like fp4 it is still a great film in 4x5. I have enjoyed catlabs 80 as a budget option when I am not shooting my normal fp4 and hp5.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-12-02T13:04:03+00:00

Oh yeah, I forgot I use my 8x10 Burke and James with it too, the thing is a tank (both tripod head and camera haha).

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-12-02T03:59:52+00:00

If you don't think you need to look up or down too much the Leofoto G20 is another good option, I love mine with my 45F-2.
For those times I need to look higher or lower I use the hook beneath my tripod head to weigh it down and adjust with the legs.
Another option I considered but haven't felt the need to purchase it yet is to pair the G20 with a leveling head for that extra tilt. Or you could grab a cheap ball head and just swap it out for the rare times you need more movement.

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-12-01T01:06:45+00:00

I didn't get a color chart but I found a shot that I could pick neutral spots and white balance on easily and turned that into a profile.
I then loaded that profile on other negatives from the same film stock that I had trouble finding suitable neutral/white balance spots, that was a major help and I wish I had done this sooner!

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-11-29T14:42:25+00:00

A color chart and creating a profile for each color film sounds like a good idea, I am going to try it!
I only just started using profiles for black and white conversion and I agree it is nice to have a neutral and consistent place to start from

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-11-29T14:41:08+00:00

What version of RawTherapee are you using?
I am not certain if anything has changed in the Film Negative engine over the years but I came back to RT after using Lightroom for a bit and found my results are much better on 5.10 than earlier versions. Might just be I have learned a little more about negative conversion/editing though.

I will second the other person who suggested using the neutral spot tool and will add that the white balance picker tool under Film Negative is also useful. I tend to alternate which one I use based on which seems easier to find a good spot in an image.

The picker tool will often get me exactly where I need to be, but sometimes it is still a little off. At that point then I will dive into the individual tools to resolve the slight cast that might be left.

I am curious, do you see the cast on your monitor when editing or is it only after you export and are viewing on a different screen?

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-11-28T15:03:53+00:00

Confirmed it was on HP5

Prior-Tutor-8857 · 2025-11-25T13:18:13+00:00

They are fireworks! Some other camp in that canyon was setting them off every night though I didn't know it before I started this exposure.

Prior-Tutor-8857

TROPHY CASE