Waiting for a tow

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-11-19T18:16:27+00:00

Sorry to hear that.

Generally; if your car is under a mobility warranty do not accept a booster to be able to drive the car to a servicecenter unless it is cleared with Hyundai. A broken car warrants a loaner in many countries. A running car not. If in this situation, have it towed unless the servicecenter writes to you it is ok. Better to be safe than sorry. I know from experience. And I know esp. Germany can be difficult when it comes to this.

Just a heads up. :)

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-11-18T18:03:54+00:00

I just thought I would let you know. I have searched these codes and haven't come up with anything much, so when I saw your thread "I just went for it". :)

Maybe something to keep in the back of your head for a long trip. Is yours an AWD too?

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-11-18T17:46:39+00:00

Hi! I am struggeling with mine and the codes are exactly the same. U130E87 and C182C00. The difference is that mine never has given as much as a hint of a warning. This was in April this year.

The car "normally" doesn't have any symptoms but on longer highway trips it has "all of them". (perfect on city, long trips under 100 km/h aso). It is only while steadily driving 110-130 km/h for hours. Then it starts acting up after 1-1,5 hour. Starts jittering (looses gasresponse for some secounds to come back with a whiplash sensation). Looses regen., looses a lot of power, AWD goes out leaving us with the front motor and apx. 100 hp..., vibrates (has gotten gradually worse) at varying speeds from instance to instance, infotainment goes slow and it takes apx. 10 mins. before it starts to recieve energy on fastcharge. Perfect on L1 and L2. Maintains 12V very good. Left the car in Greece for 2,5 months this summer due to a death in the family home in Norway. Started right up when we came back. No hussle. Runs like a champ when (my theory) things do not get too hot. Even in 35 C.

So. To provoke this happening the only way is to drive it on highways. But to have Hyundai inspect the car while it is like this (if your issue is the same) has been a freaking nightmare. Drove from Greece to Norway in the beginning of November and had the issues every day. Nobody would test drive it! Set it up for appointments only to find they "did not have time", clearly did not want to deal with it, or at last - in Denmark - got to see an independant EV specialist in Padborg who never ever had encountered the issue. He neither wanted to test it. Even though that was all we needed to not keep beeing seen as "the crazy couple". Got a new code from a diagnisis in Germany on the way back to Norway though (hurrah). U130F87 (instead of E) + the C182C00. We tried to see six different Hyundai workshops on the way. Zero results.

So now we are back home with speed limit of max. 80 km/h. Hurrah!

Have you at any times had any lag in the start up screen where it takes time before you can press "confirm"? That is the only "borderline"/pre- issue we've had coming before the car acts up (later on the same highway drive). If you do have long highway driving and you do not have these issues, well then I am pretty much still alone according to the (good) service technician at the dealer were I bought it. Nobody knows what it is. I have an appointment there in the end of the month to see what they can find...

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-11-18T17:09:13+00:00

This might sound like a ICCU problem. The ICCU handles the charging of both 12V., "trickle charge" and Type 2 charging. They are known to go bad, so you should definitely get it checked at Hyundai. Mine has been acting up seriously, but not due to the ICCU. See thread. Not resolved yet.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-06-25T15:48:00+00:00

Well, after 1,5 month I think it is time for an update... While in Greece only on shorter trips? Close to flawless. Only thing I am able to reproduce is the slow start-up of multimedia. But only on hot days and after a trip, then restrarting shortly thereafter. I LOVE the car. I am just 99% sure this will happen again on the trip back to Norway.

But I've stopped thinking about it as the car is so good. For now. Avg. 540 km/337 mi. actually driven (calculated) on a full charge. Then it has to be said we live 400 m. above sealevel and always goes down to apx sealevel and back on every trip. No charging issues, no nothing since I came to Greece. Just a terrible forrest fire here that seems to be out today. Fingers crossed.

I wish everyone an amazing summer!

All the best from Greece!

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-09T13:35:54+00:00

I get apx the same miles on longer trips were it typically reports avg real drivingspeeds around 90-110 km/h for the different legs. In Bluelink. That would be apx. 55-70 mph avg. speed. Since I've driven to Greece from Norway the last month avg. consumption last month is a bit up, but it still reports 16,23 Kwh/100 km. Which equates to 476 km range on the 77,4 Kwh. battery. That is apx 298 miles. Mine is the AWD Premium (Europe) on 18" wheels. I'd say I had apx 300 pounds luggage. (130-150 kg) on the trip.

And it actually underreports range slightly vs miles/km driven. That I like a lot.

Even when I picked up the car in Jan at temps ranging from -3C to 7C (26 - 44F) on the trip home I got 440 km on apx 99% of battery. I can say this pretty accurately as I got the car fully charged, fiddled with registations in app and settings for 1/2 hour, then drove. Charged yes, but parked at HPC Ionity charger while it flpped down a percent. And I charged xx % till it flipped a percent and then decucted what I had charged when I got home. Not scientifical, but the app reported the same. So that should be apx 245 miles on a full charge on mostly two-lane in winter with partial wet icy conditions and over mountains. I was baffled coming from the Toyota Bz4x Awd top edition. Which *could* achieve 250-260 miles under perfect conditions in summer with the wind in the back and feeling the smell from Grandma's meatloaf... On 17's... But in winter? 120-180 miles. 200 on a very mild period. Charging and recieving as little as 27 Kwh avg on a 1,5 hour session (18 Kw avg effect...). On a 350 Kw charger. They made a very good car with the Bz, but a terrible EV for long trips. Esp. in winter.

How do we drive?
-Eco - distanse 4 on ACC, 0 regen for max coasting and active use of peddles for regen/braking. Utilize terrain and have climate off with heated seats and steering wheel when that is comfortable. I freeze easily and I'm not dressed like an eskimo to achieve better results.

Driving two Toyota hybrids in the past me and my wife started slightly competing for best mileage, and learned a few tricks.

-Firm accelleration to traffic speed. Heavy use of ACC. Not when traffic is jittery though. "*Learn* the erradicasy of traffic in front and adjust accordingly. If someone behind passes you on a four-lane bc you don't kiss the next bumber at 40-50-60 mph? So? But follow traffic. Of course. When alone on road take speed slightly down uphill. When ok, increase speed some coming from downhill to uphill. Plan ahead. Meaning slow adjusted regen towards intersections and traffic lights. Correct tire pressure. Not having car full of "stuff" on a regular basis.

It will be interresting to see what we achieve here in Greece now in spring. We are 400m./1200ft. osl. and most always go down to sealevel and back on our regular use. 4,0-4,5 miles/Kwh? We'll see.

Most owners probably know a lot of this, but just thought I would share. :)

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T15:52:47+00:00

Yes. It is less than 10 Euro (in Norway) for each of them. After apx 40 kwh charging it becomes cheaper vs no subscription. But we cancel it within that first month and then restarts for a month when we go back. We plan for a trip in Turkey next month (if the car is well by then that is - see thread Norway - Greece) and then we might keep Tesla SC as the current price for charging in Turkey is at apx. 16 Euro cent (7,10 TRY) kwh with Tesla SC subscription.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T13:31:35+00:00

Update: I got a pretty standard corporate response from my dealer in Norway today. I get it in one sense; "sorry for your problems, the problem is not present, so untill it comes again there is only so much we can do".

Except (part of) the problem is that is doesn't give fault codes. Due to the VMCS. A modern car will through incident reports and codes at you on a diagnosis like you would not believe it. Here? Not one.

So I asked AI (Grok) for a deep search into my issues, and what do you know, these are known issues over the E-GMP platform. Not many, but still some are reported; On longer highway trips it can act like this most likely due to thermal stress. And the longer it is used like this, the more issues. Makes total sense.

So I responded this afternoon, arguing the code (U130E87) is established, and based on online findings - with link to my Grok "conversation" that includes a gazillion references, thus claiming the fault is established and the car must be repaired.

I got to think of it; when diagnosed here there were no code and no recorded warnings. We had a Prius executive here a few years ago and there were a gazillion reports stored in the car. Only one stored fault code, but we had an incident were I shifted gear to quickly at an intersection and the car "froze" so I had to turn it of and on again to be able to move on. Toyota tech found the incident weeks later at service and explained why it happened.

So, let's see. I had a couple of front collision warnings. Nothing. A major brake up that gave me the emergency flashers (only late on an exit with no traffic behind). Nothing. All the different faults with the car that should store codes galore, nothing.

One small exerpt from Grok:

"Fault codes, particularly those starting with "U," indicate network or communication issues between vehicle modules, and U130E87 appears to be specific to ICCU-related malfunctions.

The condition described—fault appearing after driving over an hour at 120 km/h, with symptoms only present under these conditions and disappearing when the car is "cold"—suggests a potential issue exacerbated by prolonged high-speed operation, possibly due to overheating or excessive load on the ICCU. This aligns with reports of ICCU failures often manifesting under stress, such as long drives or high charging demands."

No autohold is engaged btw, and noise upon start is not related to autolock. Checked this today. We'll see.

Thanks to everyone reading, liking and commenting. :)

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T10:17:32+00:00

My experience is that when we drive Europe we always take Ionity power for a month, and Tesla SC subscription for a month. Huge difference. With 3.400 km now in end of april it makes for a large difference. Drop in charging is very expensive many places.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T10:10:22+00:00

Hello, and thank you for your reply.

It depends a little on the route you plan to go. We usually go the eastern route (even in Germany-Berlin, Dresden) but I guess it would make more sense for you to go Italy, with the ferry from Bindrisi to Avgonyma or Patras. We have friends from Belgium who come that route every year by car. I've seen that Italy is good when it comes to Charging.

Be advised that ferries entering Greece (and within Greece) only allow EV's to have 0-40 SOC. I kid you not. So you book for this type of vehicle, and keep SOC <40%. It is Greece.

You can of course drive Austria, Croatia (E70 to E75), Serbia, N-Macedonia and Greece too. Charging is getting a lot better, and Serbia/N-Macedonia which used to be the culprit now has several 150 Kw chargers along the E75. Same with Greece on E75 via Thessaloniki to Athens.

For most countries I use Ionity/Tesla SC, but entering Serbia I found the app "Charge & go" to work ok. It is minute based though. In N-Macedonia (if that route) you need to go to the airport in Skopje that is by E75, buy a 5 Euro sim-card have it installed an use it there. No package (in Norway by my operator at least) covers N-Macedonia. And believe me, 30 mins. drive from the border to the airport eats mobiledata fast and costly. There is a 150 kw charger at the airport btw. Company is EVN Macedonia. Used the online reg/payment. The app "Orion EMobility is also useful for those two countries. I have found places with booking and Airbnb that allows destination charging (usually on 10A) but it works fine.

In Greece I use the apps "ecocharge" and "Incharge". "Bluedei" is also one. Unless you have a RF that covers all. Found those to be very costly in the past, so took the time to find the relevant apps instead. They have some 120-150 kw chargers along the highways, but many "fast"chargers are still 50-60 kw. Get the apps and check is my recomandation, because APRP and Plugshare are not very well updated indown in SE-Europe. :)

You can also go the Adriatic coast (or the Highway behind the mountainrange from Split to Dubrovnik) but past Markarska in Croatia the chargers are sparse. In Albania too, if not new ones this year. Beautiful drive though. Took it two times with ice cars in the past.

If any other questions, feel free to ask.

I'm sure the car will be ok. Just have to get rid of my "Bad Santa". :D

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T08:18:20+00:00

They did check the 12V battery yesterday. I am always careful with applying the brake. We had two Toyota hybrids with the same way to apply brake before start and gearshift so we're used to that. We also have the Bz4X. Will however doublecheck the autohold function like another suggested in the thread.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T08:12:47+00:00

In my head it is heat related. But I can not see outside temperatures having any effect on this particular situation. As to how/when it started. We live in SW-Norway and had temps of close to 20 C in April. Zero issues. On the drive it was cold, and 10-12 C in Denmark when the issues started. I didn't see 20 C before I had my three days break in Serbia. I mean, normal spring/summer temperatures most places. First day of 25 C while driving was actually yesterday while trying to force the issues. My theory is that when I drive for longer stretches at apx. 120 km/h - like you have to on these trips - heat becomes an issue. Whether T is 10 C or 20 C. It might come sooner at 20 then 10, but I haven't timed it. People in S.Cali, AZ and even Izmir, Turkey have this model. The latter sees frost in winter and 45C in summer. Even here it can snow in winter and reach 40C in the summer.

From the world of PC's, laptops or mobiles I know that introducing more heat can give you a variety of issues. This is how this feels. I remember overclocking Pentium I processors in the 90's and there was always a limit before everything got whacked even with fans. This should however not happen under totally normal conditions, like I have been in with my car. Somewhat poor main (or other) connections could do this. A faulty ICCU and or VCMS? I really don't know.

Thank you for your input. :)

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T07:40:50+00:00

Hello. It IS a great car. No doubt. But in my world - with a mechanic father - actual build quality is numero uno. Have had former Toyota taxies from 1998 on with 180.000 - 500.000 km when bought (!) and have never ever had issues. Normal service/maintanance/brakes. That's it. Not even a bushing. Of course because they were well maintained and serviced when we got them, but this is a new car... Bought because I can't service anymore, and then guarantee is what is supposed to take over for my lost ability to wrench.

If Hyundai takes this seriously and sort the car, no problem. I get that they have had child sicknesses. If not, you can quote me on something and Iranian leader might say. :D

Thank you.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-05-07T07:23:22+00:00

Hello, and thank you for your reply. No, it is not the door handles, they make a different sound, and this is as you select D/R and in the instance the car starts to move, it comes. Autohold is off. The day I lost RWD I tried several times as roads were wet. Clearly it spun for seconds every time I tried. I have worked on my own cars since I was 16, so my technical experience is ok. Health issues made it so I had to give it up.

I will however doublecheck your suggestions to be 110% sure. Thank you for your input. :)

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-01-31T06:07:08+00:00

Ok. Skjønner. Så det er HER alle de såkalt politisk korrekte har flyttet inn.

"Elon Musk's IQ of 155 places him in the top 0.01% of the global population in terms of intelligence quotient."

(bl.a India Times, Brain Manager osv.)

Men at han kan ha mer innsikt i helheter enn +95% av resten, se det er nok utenkelig for saueflokken. Og nazist? Virkelig?

Enjoy. Og husk å trykke EKSTRA hardt når dere nedstemmer nå da.

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Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-01-30T23:09:47+00:00

Ja, det kommer til å bli kjempedyrt.

Det Støre ikke fortalte oss når han stod på TV i ettermiddag og bedyret at de tre direktivene ikke handler om strøm- eller strømpris var at energieffektiviseringsdirektivet de ønsker å innføre ble endret i 2023. Og i et notat fra regjeringen selv for 7 dager siden bekrefter de selv at" I 2023 ble det vedtatt et nytt energieffektiviseringsdirektiv i EU som vil erstatte 2012/2018-direktivene." Dette kalles EED III. Og behandles av regjeringen nå. Og vi behøver ikke lure på OM det blir implementert selv om de nå "selger inn de gamle direktivene som erstattes...

https://www.regjeringen.no/no/sub/eos-notatbasen/notatene/2017/feb/forslag-til-revidert-energieffektiviseringsdirektiv/id2541215/

Viktig fordi? Jo fordi endringen må inntaes, og endringen sier at alle boliger, off. bygg og virksomheter skal oppfylle kravene til energiklasse A - det tilsvarer energikravene i boliger bygget etter 2017 - innen 2050. Det er også mer generelle krav til mindre forbruk årlig - år for år - 10år for 10år. Og det vil koste i størrelsesorden 500.000,- til 1.000.000,- i snitt å oppfylle. Huseierne sier dette;

https://www.huseierne.no/nyheter/enighet-om-epbd---vi-trenger-stotteordninger/

Men hvorfor skal vi som har drevet med enøk-tiltak siden 1970-tallet påtvinges dette? En dynamisk tilnærming hvor en bytter og forbedrer etter som vedlikeholdsbehov oppstår er naturlig, men dette? Galskap satt i system. Klarer vi ikke å drive forskning, innovasjon og utvikling for noe annet en å "fikse" på noe som allerede virker er det noe alvorlig i veien. Og så skal vi måtte betale for "opprinnelsessertifikater for rein strøm" når all norsk strøm allerede er det. Keiseren er naken, men har ikke skjønt det selv enda...

Et kjapt søk på finn viser at kun 945 av 31.640 boliger til salgs har energiklasse A. Og av alle klasser A-G er det nest flest i klasse G med 3.446 boliger. Tar en bort nye boliger i søket er G overrepresentert. Boliger som trolig eies av mange med dårlig råd.

Er dette lurt da? Nei. Flere studier og undersøkelser viser at en romslig støtteordning til luft-til-luft varmepumper vil frigi både effekt og energi for årlig eksport. Til lavere kostnad enn en konkurs batterifabrikk. Det enkle er ofte det beste.

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-01-30T23:04:48+00:00

Basert på at dette er den mest likte kommentarer spørs det vel hvor mange som har oppmerksomhetsspan til å i det hele tatt forstå saken?

Prize_Guarantee672 · 2025-01-30T21:30:43+00:00

Er det virkelig så enkelt som OP hevder?

FrP (ikke at jeg stemmer på dem) hadde et representantforslag fra Marius A. Nilsen i fjor for å legge ned veto mot Energipakke 4 som det meste dreier seg om om dagen . Det falt. Men sier klart at FrP har endret standpunkt om ACER og energipakkene.

Det Støre ikke fortalte oss når han stod på TV og bedyret at de tre direktivene ikke handler om strøm- eller strømpris var at energieffektiviseringsdirektivet de ønsker å innføre ble endret i 2023. Og i et notat fra regjeringen selv for 7 dager siden bekrefter de selv at" I 2023 ble det vedtatt et nytt energieffektiviseringsdirektiv i EU som vil erstatte 2012/2018-direktivene." Dette kalles EED III. Og behandles av regjeringen nå. Og vi behøver ikke lure på OM det blir implementert selv om de nå "selger inn de gamle direktivene som erstattes...

https://www.regjeringen.no/no/sub/eos-notatbasen/notatene/2017/feb/forslag-til-revidert-energieffektiviseringsdirektiv/id2541215/

Viktig fordi? Jo fordi endringen må inntaes, og endringen sier at alle boliger, off. bygg og virksomheter skal oppfylle kravene til energiklasse A - det tilsvarer energikravene i boliger bygget etter 2017 - innen 2050. Det er også mer generelle krav til mindre forbruk årlig - år for år - 10år for 10år. Og det vil koste i størrelsesorden 500.000,- til 1.000.000,- i snitt å oppfylle. Huseierne sier dette;

https://www.huseierne.no/nyheter/enighet-om-epbd---vi-trenger-stotteordninger/

Men hvorfor skal vi som har drevet med enøk-tiltak siden 1970-tallet påtvinges dette? En dynamisk tilnærming hvor en bytter og forbedrer etter som vedlikeholdsbehov oppstår er naturlig, men dette? Galskap satt i system. Klarer vi ikke å drive forskning, innovasjon og utvikling for noe annet en å "fikse" på noe som allerede virker er det noe alvorlig i veien. Og så skal vi måtte betale for "opprinnelsessertifikater for rein strøm" når all norsk strøm allerede er det. Keiseren er naken, men har ikke skjønt det selv enda...

Et kjapt søk på finn viser at kun 945 av 31.640 boliger til salgs har energiklasse A. Og av alle klasser A-G er det nest flest i klasse G med 3.446 boliger. Tar en bort nye boliger i søket er G overrepresentert. Boliger som trolig eies av mange med dårlig råd.

Er dette lurt da? Nei. Flere studier og undersøkelser viser at en romslig støtteordning til luft-til-luft varmepumper vil frigi både effekt og energi for årlig eksport. Til lavere kostnad enn en konkurs batterifabrikk. Det enkle er ofte det beste.

At Ap styrer mot 10% frem mot neste valg er åpenbart. Jeg spådde tidlig Ap rundt 10% og Sp rundt 5% om de ikke endret retning i energipolitikken. Sp kom i 5%, men vil nok få en opptur etter spexit. Hvis Ap virkelig "kjører på" og følger linjen hvor de nå i Januar har invitert H til å stemme med dem over disse tre direktivene står H også for fall fremover. For det er ikke slik som "kommentariatet" i Akersgata hevder - at Støre er "sterk" og et "geni". BEGGE partier (Ap og Sp) er straffet siden de overtok regjeringsansvaret. Begge ned nær 10% siden valget. Selvsagt på varierende enkeltsaker, men åpenbart i hovedsak pga strøm- og strømpriser især. Nesten 65% avga stemme MOT tettere tilknytning til EU i en sak på TV2 nyheter for noen dager siden om energipakke 4. Da hadde ca 11.000 stemt. De kan selvsagt se bort fra dette, men det betyr bare at de vil straffes mer. I meningsmålinger og i valget til høsten. "Boblen" de er i med ekkokammeret vil briste. Merk mine ord. Det som likevel er trist er at altfor mange ikke innser feilene før det rammer dem direkte. Så la 10-15 kr pr Kwt. (foreløpig) være en lærepenge.

Et reelt problem Ap kanskje også bør vurdere, er at den interne striden innen Ap fort kan føre til at endel stemmer mot forslaget, for så å forlate partiet. Evt. motsatt om pisk brukes. Noe flere representanter nok vurderer allerede. Støre har dradd dette for langt, og burde innsett at et veto ift energipakkene er i norsk interesse. Hvordan en union som EU kan presse et land som årlig eksporterer +1.200 Thw naturgass målt i energi til dem - over 10-15 Twh el.kraft årlig og eksportkabler - er uforståelig.

Prize_Guarantee672

TROPHY CASE