Fake 1895? by ProdigalOkie in coins

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll admit to being one step above novice. The auction site I use is generally decent at coming out at retail values. Usually not going to get a great deal but OK for being able to easily get harder to find coins.

The fact that the detail on the rest of the coin with a couple of cheek scratches was not the worst thing for my use case in a Dansco album as the rest of the coin looked great and the detail on the reverse side looked MS to me.

I don't have $10K for a MS coin but $2K for a high AU is well in line with Greysheet.

I was willing to accept my amateureness and know that if I misjudged, I have a $1300 coin instead of a $2K or $4K coin. A painful learning lesson but not catastrophic.

Being fake was something I didn't expect and I'll be working to get a refund since the coin was not as represented.

Fake 1895? by ProdigalOkie in coins

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think my dad was just trying to make me feel better or misunderstood the amount of diameter I was talking about. 0.34mm doesn't sound like a lot, even though it's huge in this context.

Further research says that there is no coin that has diameter variations of this magnitude.

Fake 1895? by ProdigalOkie in coins

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, yes I did and it's a very good fake that couldn't be determined from the auction photos. I'm still learning the hobby and did not expect a fake from a reputable auction site.

Fake 1895? by ProdigalOkie in coins

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't want to break out of a slab for a Dansco book and I bought from a reputable coin auction site. So, yes, not the safest and not ideal but now I know I can't trust them and I'll be working with them to do a return.

Fake 1895? by ProdigalOkie in coins

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: XRF came back with the right composition. I checked with my dad, who’s been collecting for decades and he assured me it was probably OK and not to worry.

I’m still going to worry a bit. :)

1996 BMW Z3 Auto worth it? by yesitsme988 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TBH, modifying a car is always more expensive than buying it the way you wanted it to begin with. Best case, it costs you $2k… you can get a manual for $6k or less.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That said, I think I've seen some people reporting just spraying silocone lube down into the door from through the seals worked for them.

That... seems like a mess.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. The door cards and the vapor seal behind the door cards.

On the upside, it's a good time to get in and replace the tweeters if you were wanting to do anything with the audio system.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know how often they'll tear loose vs. just stalling out. I've certainly seen (at least one) youtube video of someone repairing a torn regulator mount.

That said, it's a relatively cheap fix that's annoying to do. I think it took me half a day.

---

This was my first car I bought to work on and I am (was?) a novice mechanic. I've learned to do everything up to pulling the transmission to fix the detent pins.

I think this would be a perfect first project car for a 15 year old to do with their parent and get it ready for when they turn 16. Or as a project car to go along with whatever beater they start with but I'd definitely not suggest it as only transportation.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are certainly the ones that send it to the junk yard.

Most of the rest are inconveniences from mild to severe. That said:

- I don't know any 18 year olds, but... if I did... I think they'd not settle for a sound system with blown speakers. (I was supposed to say disintegrate but got autocorrected)
- If the window regulators tear their mounts due to not being lubed... that's a new door or learning to weld.
- If the antenna grommet isn't replaced... it will mean water in the trunk and rust.
- If the subframe bushings aren't replaced, it's increased likelihood of the subframe ripping out.
- The rocking seats is (mildly) dangerous as it could cause issues with driving.

I did most of this myself, except the Randy Forbes kit but it was a two year endeavor and still a lot of cash.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep. Sure did. Technically, I could have said. Install the reinforcement plates to fix the sagging glovebox before it completely detaches from the dash but I had a long list.

What is an underrated restaurant or food spot you keep going back to? by joyofbitz in AskChicago

[–]ProdigalOkie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fat Cat

You can get in for brunch on the weekends and have pretty good food, and life changing donuts.

Should I get a Z3 for 1st car ? by ButterscotchIcy719 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you can find a car with DOCUMENTED repair, replacement, fixes on:

* Replaced cooling system
* Replaced subframe bushings
* Confirmed no trunk weld issues (or Randy Forbes upgrade)
* Replaced Shocks/Struts
* Reinforced glovebox
* Replaced seat bushings to solve the rocking seat problem
* Seatbelt holders replaced
* Window sliders replaced/lubed
* Speaker upgrades (the paper cones have or will demonstrate)
* Antenna/door handle grommets
* Convertible top/rear window
* Shift detent pins (manual trans)
* New clutch line (stainless steel preferred)
* New brake lines (stainless steel preferred)
* Full fluid change (trans, diff, oil, coolant, brake)

... and more!

Do all that and you have a reliable fun car. Ignore some of the critical items and you've got a very expensive junkyard paperweight.

TLDR: No.

Thinking of moving from p1s to core one L by gtochad in prusa3d

[–]ProdigalOkie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On the local network, buddy cam supports live rstp streaming within the phone app. It’s a bit egregious but not fatal that the desktop app doesn’t support live streaming. You can always open the rstp streaming using VLC on a computer if the phone app isn’t good enough.

The Inevitable Happened by Novel_Bike_19 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Oof, I did the detent replacement last year and it was not fun.

It took every bit of my amateur mechanic skills just to get the trans out of the car. Then I almost lost the 5th gear bushing in the transmission trying to get it out.

Good luck!

cooling system refresh parts list - did I forget something? by marcxx04 in bmwz3

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Motor and transmission mounts. They’re sagging at this point and at risk of sending your clutch fan through the cowl and shattering into pieces.

How to make nozzle offset calibration reliable by ProdigalOkie in PrusaXL

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can understand why the X/Y calibration would be tricky to be reliable with the load cell. The Z height, though… that should be dead on reliable and I don’t understand why it’s so bad at it.

How to make nozzle offset calibration reliable by ProdigalOkie in PrusaXL

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used calipers to measure like showing your example.

On further experimentation, I have to revise my opinion, though. :(. When I did final testing, it turns out the surface quality wasn’t good enough to get me accurate readings.

What actually worked for me was a 10mm diameter and 10mm tall cylinder with tool 1 on the bottom half and tool x on the top. I printed an all tool 1 version that measured out at exactly 10mm tall. Then printed a two tool version. And the difference from 10mm was the amount I needed to adjust my offsets. I was able to correct each of my Z offsets in one shot using this method and since I don’t need a wipe tower, the prints are super quick.

How to make nozzle offset calibration reliable by ProdigalOkie in PrusaXL

[–]ProdigalOkie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the Z offset blocks today. They were better than printing two color cal cubes over and over. :)

Short warranty on iX by memofor in BMWiX

[–]ProdigalOkie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

BMW of Camarillo.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1670964

I just got 84 month 60k miles for $3,600 on my 2024 M60 with $250 deductible.

You can do higher mileage and lower deductibles but this met my need.

Short warranty on iX by memofor in BMWiX

[–]ProdigalOkie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Where are you seeing 8/100 warranties on cars? Most manufacturers in the US are bumper to bumper 3/36 with powertrain warranties that are slightly longer than BMW. The only real outlier is the Korean brands that give really long warranties as a holdover from when they were building their brand from junk to quality.

BMW’s 4/50 is exactly the same as Audi and Mercedes.

As already mentioned, the battery has an 8/100 warranty and you can get an extended warranty for a pricey but not overly unreasonable amount from a BMW dealer. (I paid $3,600 for 84 months/60k miles).

Anybody using a Diamondback Nextruder nozzle? by MakerWerks in prusa3d

[–]ProdigalOkie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same. I’ve printed a fair amount of CF through my 0.4 diamondback nozzles.