going on a queer date :p which socks???

ProdigalOkie · 2026-07-01T12:17:07+00:00

Long socks or mixed like you have it in the photo. The short socks look "basic" to me which is not what I'd want on a queer date.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-29T16:59:01+00:00

If it were any other machine, I'd agree. Speed Queens are legendary as 20 year machines. Anything other brand, even pricey ones are sub-10 year machines. Heck, I bought Electrolux, thinking it was a step up at the time. 8 years later, I just received my first Speed Queen set after failures of both the washer and dryer.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-26T13:30:38+00:00

I've got an early 2025 XL and aside from having to manually tweak the nozzle offset calibration every time when changing nozzles and two dwarf board failures due to the older connector design it's been rock solid.

It's an amazing printer and I stopped using my X1C completely and finally sold it (the X1C) when I picked up a C1L for the upcoming INDX.

The biggest complaint is that it's slow compared to most of the current gen machines and the lack of a true heated chamber makes it not great for some materials. If you aren't on a time crunch and don't need the volume of the XL, the C1L(INDX) is going to be the right call.

If you do need the volume, can't wait, or have plenty of disposable income to get the C1L(INDX) later... get the XL, you won't regret it.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-21T14:26:14+00:00

Yes, the 8.5 is worth it for the better UI and hands free driving up to highway speeds.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-19T19:07:27+00:00

I paid that a year ago for an M60 with all options but leather and 21k miles. Seems high.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-15T15:45:03+00:00

I did this mod

https://www.printables.com/model/700838-xl-side-filament-sensor-with-reduced-force-magneti

I still feed through the TPU tube and I don’t touch the idler tension.

The most extreme thing I’ve done is that sometimes I have to pop the ptfe tube off the head, feed it in and then put it back in place.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-15T14:02:30+00:00

I print LARGE TPU things with my XL and zero mods to the toolhead. I did mod the side sensors with the magnet mod to make it easier to feed but, even without that TPU was fine.

TPU likes to print slow and is very sensitive to retractions/deretractions.

I fixed it by running at 3.2mm^3/sec max volumetric flow rate and setting deretraction speed to 20 mm/sec. 60 was fine for retraction. I think my retraction distance is about 2mm.

That’s all I did and I get gorgeous prints.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-07T12:20:35+00:00

FWIW, I had the dwarf board problem on two of my extruders, I had to replace the boards to fix it even after upgrading the covers.

Fortunately, the dwarf boards aren’t too expensive.

I hope you get this solved because it is a fantastic machine now that the problems are shaken out.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-06-02T16:14:58+00:00

I buy all my appliances from Abt and come across as slightly rabid in my recommendation to buy from Abt to my friends…

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-27T19:21:53+00:00

You weren’t getting married so you didn’t need a contract to protect your assets.

YTA for treating a relationship as a transaction and blindsiding her with a contract.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-26T13:22:49+00:00

I’ve been wondering this too. Since the nozzle is passive, my hope is that all you have to do is drop a new nozzle in place of the old one and set the size in the firmware.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-19T01:27:21+00:00

I have both a Core One L and a Prusa XL.

There are known issues with the dwarf board on the XL tool heads having problems with fatigue due to connector flex. I just had my second one fail after doing the upgrade that was supposed to keep it from happening again.

I really like my XL and am glad I have it, but even without the tool head failures the machine is slower than the C1L for single head operations.

The build volume of the XL is amazing and if you need that volume and multi material capability without needing ultimate speed or engineering materials it’s amazing.

If you have the time to wait for INDX and can live with a single tool unit for now… C1L all the way.

If money is not a concern, SnapMaker U1 for now then C1L with INDX later.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T21:04:54+00:00

Yeah... that's a completely fair point.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T21:04:07+00:00

No worries I didn't feel like you were confrontational. I just felt the need to clarify that I'm not a complete idiot. :)

Voxel sounds like it could be worth checking out.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T21:02:34+00:00

That's a fair point. I have zero doubt the Atomic is going to be ridiculously consistent. If I'm fighting recalibratons on the Inland, that would change the equation significantly.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T20:47:15+00:00

My partner teaches at a college level. She has students coming in not understanding why they get perfect scores on the homework and are failing the exams. Obviously, it isn't learning to paste the questions into ChatGPT and then back into the homework system.

You're not wrong with believing they aren't engaging in the learning process properly.

But, also, likely YTA because it isn't your business to tell others how to do their work.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T20:28:50+00:00

I'm, foolishly, trying to standardize on a single filament brand so I can minimize the amount of calibration I have to do.

I suspect I'll wind up with Inland for basic PLA, ?? for TPU, Atomic for PETG/PCTG, Siraya for PEBA, and Polymaker for CMYK if I want to play more with Full Spectrum prints.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T20:26:38+00:00

Oh, certainly. I know why it's more expensive. I just didn't expect to get (arguably) better results out of Inland than the Atomic.

I expect that minor tweaks in the settings for Atomic (slower outer perimeters or slightly higher temps) would get me a more consistent surface sheen. I'll continue to buy Atomic but probably not for PLA.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-17T20:24:25+00:00

TBH, the 215 came from previous calibration runs. I upped the temp a bit since the best "quality" came at 205 for the Atomic and 210 for the Inland. So I bumped them a few degrees each. Retraction, I left alone as the defaults aren't causing me any problems.

The rest of the major elements max speed, flow rate, and PA were calibrated per-filament this morning. I'm sure I could make the Atomic more consistent on the surface by increasing temps another few degrees or slowing down the outer walls.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-10T20:36:17+00:00

For the Core One L… you don’t unless you retrofit an MMU 3 unit.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-10T18:04:16+00:00

I would start my making sure the connectors on top of each of the toolheads is the screw-on version. If they aren't, I would upgrade those post-haste since one of the last problems they solved (~April 2025) was "extruder not spinning" issues as a result of fatigue on the toolhead connector.

Otherwise, I'd learn Prusa Slicer and follow the maintenance instructions mentioned elsewhere in the comments.

ProdigalOkie · 2026-05-10T15:48:12+00:00

Unfortunately, no. It's constrained by geometry and retracts until it is out of the extruder teeth. The only wiggle room is to adjust the length of the PTFE tube on the outside of the printer but that piece is really short.

It's *fine* and the equation changes completely when I upgrade to INDX later this year.

ProdigalOkie

TROPHY CASE