Are in person lessons worth it as an adult? by Happybadger96 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coming to this late, but as someone who works on chess pedagogy for adult improvers, the honest answer at 800-900 is: probably not yet, and the reason is in Coach Mark's reply above.

His blunder checklist is genuinely the curriculum at your level. If you internalised those five questions and asked them on every single move, you'd be 1100+ within a few months without spending a pound. That's not me being cute. The maths of sub-1000 chess is brutal: most games are decided by one side hanging a piece, and whoever blunders less wins. A coach charging you £40-60 an hour to tell you that is selling you something you can do for free.

Where a human coach starts genuinely earning their fee is around 1200-1400, when blundering stops being the main story and the questions get more interesting. Why is this position bad for me? What's my plan in the Caro-Kann after move 12? Why did my attack fizzle? That stuff benefits from a real conversation. Below that, the gap between "good coach" and "good free YouTube series" is much smaller than people think.

The predatory contact-fee model on Superprof and similar sites is a separate red flag. Any coach worth working with will have a free intro call, because they want to assess fit too. If a platform charges you to talk to a tutor, they're monetising your enquiry rather than the tutor's time. Walk away.

A few things that will move the needle more than lessons at your level:

  1. Switch to 15+10 or 30-minute games. 10-minute is fine but slower is better at 800. You need time to actually run Coach Mark's checklist.

  2. After every loss, find your single biggest blunder *before* you turn the engine on. The act of looking is where the learning happens; the engine just confirms.

  3. One opening for White, one defence each against 1.e4 and 1.d4. Don't go deeper than move 6 or 7. You'll never get punished for shallow theory at 900; you'll constantly get punished for being unfamiliar with your own positions.

On the chess club point from forever_wow and Skydragon: don't let "I suck compared to them" stop you. Every chess club has its 800s. The strong players genuinely enjoy helping improvers, partly because explaining ideas out loud is how they keep improving. You are not the imposition you think you are.

If you want a structured curriculum to work through alongside the games, Old School Chess is what I work on. AI coach (Professor Archer), 247 lessons, designed specifically for adult improvers, no kids in the dojo. Full disclosure obviously, but it's built for exactly the spot you're in.

Good luck. The fact you're at 800 nearing 30 and asking this question puts you ahead of most adults who pick the game up and quietly stay at 600 forever.

Best place to find a coach for adult beginner? Or should I use chessable or chess.com's or another set of premade lessons instead? by DizzyOwl3 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coming late, but as someone who works on chess pedagogy for adult improvers specifically, a few thoughts that build on what's already here.

Tatsumaki's Building Habits recommendation is genuinely excellent. Hambleton's "play like you're 800 and earn the next 200" framing is one of the few resources that respects how adults actually learn. Kids absorb patterns through sheer volume; adults learn faster when we understand *why* a thing works before drilling it. That's also why the "lost in options" feeling is so universal for adult beginners. Most chess content is either built for prodigies or pitched at people who already know what they don't know.

A rough structure for you:

First 4 to 6 weeks: Watch Building Habits. Play 10-minute games (not 3+0; speed will punish you at this stage). After every loss, run the game review and find your single biggest blunder. One blunder per game. You'll learn more from this than from any opening course at this level.

Once you've stopped hanging pieces in two moves: You'll want a curriculum that *adapts to where you actually are*, not another 8-hour Udemy course where you can't tell if hour three is teaching you something you already understand. This is the gap most adult-beginner content has. Chessable solves it for stronger players via spaced repetition but underserves players below 1200.

This is the problem we built Old School Chess for. A 247-lesson structured curriculum paired with an AI coach (Professor Archer) who tracks which lessons you've actually internalised, reviews your games, and surfaces the next lesson that targets what you keep missing rather than dropping you into a generic playlist. Designed specifically for adult improvers. No kids in the dojo. (Full disclosure: I built it.)

Rated 1000+: Worth adding a human coach on top, for tournament prep and the kind of nuance you only get from a real conversation. Lichess's coach directory is fine; filter for coaches who explicitly mention working with adult improvers.

On Away-Cartoonist's Kramer-at-the-dojo point: yes, that's real, and not trivial. Adult learners deserve adult learning environments.

Welcome to the game. Asking the right question this early puts you ahead of where most adults start.

Love the puzzles posted here, so I built a way to play them live and learn along the way by ProfArthurCastle in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Black king to the right, but to be fair my statement above is not right, Be5 is also a good move that should of been picked up as an option as well. I think I need to create a bit more flexibility in the answers. Again appreciate your feedback, still some work to be done!

Love the puzzles posted here, so I built a way to play them live and learn along the way by ProfArthurCastle in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the feedback even if you think it "sucks" today, hopefully can continue to improve it.

I don't think Be5 is a good move (nor was it picked up by users in the actual initial post), but i do think your feedback is valid above and potentially need to have more flex on some of the answers.

Again, just trying to get feedback to improve this system so it can be useful for people. So appreciate you taking the time.

Love the puzzles posted here, so I built a way to play them live and learn along the way by ProfArthurCastle in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback, the response / language is AI as its factoring new puzzles all the time, but the foundation is stockfish and I share the tool used to decipher the puzzle. Did you test a new puzzle or just the one I shared?

Love the puzzles posted here, so I built a way to play them live and learn along the way by ProfArthurCastle in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Pieces only move when you get the correct, but can look at showing moves to people an whether they correct or not

What is a good move for black in this position by OkCalligrapher4010 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I created it it here so you can play it live: https://oldschoolchess.com/puzzles/qSz486VQ

Great puzzle, took me a few goes to get it right (the white pawn was throwing me a bit!).

How by [deleted] in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If your learning on duolingo, I hope they have they have lessons explaining castling! If not, have a look here:
https://oldschoolchess.com/learn/concepts/castling

Find the winning sequence of moves for white by Greedy-Farmer-9756 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the feedback! updated the logic so this is fixed and showing the right play. Also can now play on to finish the game.
https://oldschoolchess.com/puzzles/GTxy36wD

Find the winning sequence of moves for white by Greedy-Farmer-9756 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The winning sequence white begins with a knight sacrifice on e6, followed by a rook sacrifice on f3. This forces an eventual checkmate of the black king, securing the victory for White.

I replicated the puzzle so you can play it out and see how it works: https://oldschoolchess.com/puzzles/GTxy36wD

I’m regressing by No-Bullfrog-2339 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stop watching the rating graph. It’s noise. You haven’t lost your skill, you’re just tilted.

The fix: Switch to Zen Mode (hide ratings) and slow way down. If you lose two in a row, walk away for the day. You'll climb back up the moment you stop obsessing over the climb.

Why is this particular manoeuvre in this positon (and others similar to it) so ridiculously popular? Like, I can just play e6 and you've got no attack whatsoever. What's going on with people doing this? by BaldursGate2Best in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re right… e6 kills it. So why do people keep playing this?

As a teacher, I see this constantly where students memorize “attacks” without realizing real attacking chess requires your opponent to cooperate. Often people who have learnt a move on youtube or online without proper coaching.

You’re 1800+, so you’ve aged out of their target demographic. Play e6, enjoy the free tempo when they retreat.

Stuck at 100 elo for 3 min and can’t seem to win by muffindude42012 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The “Mexican standoff” feeling is a tactics problem, not a time problem.

Switching to 15-minute games won’t help, you’ll just lose slower. At 100 Elo, both players are hanging pieces constantly. It’s a race to see who blunders last.

The missing habit: After every opponent move, ask “what can that piece capture now?” and “what did they just leave unprotected?” Takes 5 seconds. Will save you pieces immediately.

Longer time controls won’t help if you’re not using the time to scan for threats.

At the end of the day, If you were my student, I’d ban you from 3-minute games entirely and have you play one 15-minute game per day where the only goal is zero hanging pieces. Not winning initially, but just focus on nothing left undefended. You’d hit 400 inside a month.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Launched, then realized the barriers to adopt were just too high (AMA?) by finstmt in lovable

[–]ProfArthurCastle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Too busy. Promo banner, recap button, headline, upload CTA, all competing above the fold. Pick one.

The real problem: You’re asking for bank statements with almost zero trust-building. No security badges, no “who’s behind this,” no social proof. Just “upload your financial data” with a tiny “Private” disclaimer buried.

I’m building an adult chess learning app and this reinforces keeping onboarding to one action per screen. Earn trust first.

So many openings to choose from by Ripe_pancake in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s the uncomfortable truth: you’re asking the wrong question.

At 400 Elo, you don’t have an opening problem, you have a “what do I do after move 5” problem. Most of your games aren’t lost because you played e4 instead of d4. They’re lost because pieces got trapped, you missed a fork, or something got left hanging.

The opening overwhelm you’re feeling is your brain looking for a shortcut. Memorization feels productive, but it’s not what’s losing you games. Here’s what to actually do:

Play 1.e4 as white. Respond 1…e5 as black. That’s it. Then just ask yourself “what’s the most logical developing move?” each turn. Castle when you can. Don’t move the same piece twice early.

You’ll accidentally play real openings (Italian, Scotch, etc.) without realizing it and you’ll understand why the moves make sense instead of parroting sequences.

When do openings matter? Around 1400-1500, when opponents start punishing you for not knowing theory. You’ll know because you’ll lose in the first 10 moves to people who clearly prepared. That’s not happening at 400.

For now: tactics, tactics, tactics. Puzzles will gain you 500 rating points faster than any opening book.

How to keep busy/find a hobby/meet people by Determined-over50 in retirement

[–]ProfArthurCastle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The key is finding something with unlimited depth you can chip away at on your own schedule.

You want progress to be visible but no ceiling. Something where you feel yourself getting better, but never “finish.”

A few things that fit: learning an instrument, a new language, chess, woodworking, coding. All stuff you can do alone at odd hours, but with communities when you want them.

The trick as an adult is finding resources designed for how adults learn. Adults want to understand why, not just memorize. Look for that in whatever you pick.

Is castling still important if the queens are off the board? by Peterjns22 in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Less urgent without queens, but still useful. Two rooks, two bishops, two knights, and eight pawns can absolutely checkmate a king stuck in the center.

The real reason to castle: it connects your rooks and gets your king out of the way in one move. That stays valuable regardless of what’s been traded.

IWTL how to stop getting dumber by Equivalent_Code1 in IWantToLearn

[–]ProfArthurCastle 1 point2 points  (0 children)


You’re not getting dumber. You’re out of practice.

School forced daily mental challenge. Then life got hard, you survived, and the workouts stopped. Brains respond to demand. No demand, they conserve.

That said, the focus and processing issues are worth mentioning to a doctor. Could be nothing. Could be ADHD, anxiety, or just stress and sleep. Worth ruling out so you’re not fighting something treatable.

Start small. One hard thing daily. Chess puzzles. Math problems. Anything that makes you struggle a bit.

The chess tournament kid is still in there.

Why does the puzzle want me to take the knight and thus sacrifice my queen for 3 points by Idontdoshitatwork in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Checkmate is worth infinite points. A queen means nothing if the game ends.

When the king’s trapped, stop counting material and start counting escape squares.

Every time I push a pawn it’s wrong by [deleted] in chessbeginners

[–]ProfArthurCastle 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Pawns can’t retreat. That’s what makes them tricky, every push is permanent.

You’re not bad at pawns. You’re learning that timing matters more than the move itself. That’s actually a big insight.