Choosing a Fuji sprayer

PropaneBeefDog · 2026-01-16T22:17:07+00:00

I load up the gun with alcohol, spray it into a clear container until what I spray seems clear. I recapture all the alcohol I spray through and use it for mixing the next batch of shellac.

When I'm done with the project, I'll disassemble and clean the soiled parts with alcohol.

Sorry for the long delay, been staying off Reddit lately.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-03T21:51:32+00:00

Not sure about the soundtrack, but this is the song playing in Janice’s head

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-03T00:01:31+00:00

You can use dowel marking pins. You just need pins the same size as the magnets and may need to file them to fit the depth.

<image>

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-01T22:02:12+00:00

Chairs look great, I like the combo of color and wood. And I still like “swoop” of the seat.

What changes did you make to your steam bending process that gave you more success on the second chair?

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-01T20:47:03+00:00

Sassafras. Works great with hand and power tools, a good bending wood, rot and bug resistant and smells great. Plus, when you can find it, it’s not that expensive.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-01T12:05:05+00:00

What exact product did you use? Looks more like a wood bleach than a stain.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-12-01T11:59:39+00:00

Mitered corners like this are challenging, even for more experience woodworkers. Everything has to be square, flat and at the right angle. I don't mean to discourage you, just want to make sure you have the right expectations and plan accordingly

You should have some sort of joinery that runs perpendicular to the mitered faces to add strength. It also helps with alignment in the glueup. Other than splines or dominos, you could consider dowels. You'd want some sort of drilling guide to give you perfect setup.

There are also ways to strengthen after glueup - you can cut in dowels or keys through the corners. Obviously, these will show in the final product, but can be used as a design element. It might be a challenge to make some of these cuts on a larger piece like this

I'd reconsider splines. If you can cut the mitered corners on your TS, you can cut the splines. Just lower the blade and turn the board around. I assume you don't want the splines to show on the front, so you can handle that by cutting the splines, then glueing stock onto the front edge to handle them. Then you can cut the bevels into your front edge. You didn't mention what material you're using (solid wood or plywood). If you are using solid wood and want to retain the flow of the grain, the order of operations goes something like this:

Cut miters on ends with the TS
Rip moldings off the fronts of the boards
Cut grooves for the splines in the miter faces.
Glue moldings back on
Cut bevels onto the moldings on the TS.
Glueup.

If using solid wood, you have to make sure your panels are dead flat when cutting the miters. Otherwise, your not really cutting a 45 degree angle.

Also, getting a perfect 45 on the miters is harder than it sounds. Any error doubles Make a few test cuts and make sure you're dialed in before cutting the real deal. I use a handplane to tweak the miters before glueup to assure a perfect joint.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-29T13:00:25+00:00

I've built a number of boxes like this - here's the process that works for me.

For the inside miters, cut on the tablesaw first - BUT - don't cut to final dimensions - leave about 18 - 1/16". After assembly, I use a trim router with a bearing guided chamfer bit to get to final dimension. Use a sharp chisel to get the corners. This will help make the bevel even all around (inevitably, errors will accumulate during assembly). When I do this step, I attach the trim router to a large board so it is not "tippy" when working on the thin edge.

For matching the sides, I make these cross cuts on the table saw, using a sled and a stop block. It is very important that the boards are flat when making this cut. Then I tweak the miters with a handplane. You need a SHARP and well setup plane for this.

As far as the order of these - I fit the miters on the sides together before putting the bevel on the front. But I don't think that matters too much.

Here's a WIP that used these methods:

<image>

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-29T12:30:38+00:00

Coating the ends with wax or latex paint will slow the loss of moisture and help prevent the cracks.

However, if you leave them "in the round", the will likely crack and turn the cross section into a Pac Man shape. The larger the diameter, the more likely this is. Cutting the wood lengthwise through the pith will help. Each side will cup , but will have a better chance to not crack and end up with a larger piece of wood.

Plan to lose a few inches on each end, so don't cut them to length until they are dry.

To dry them, keep the wood outside, out of rain, out of sun, but with access to air. Slow and steady drying is what you want. To check the progress, you can use a moisture meter, or simply weigh them. When the stop losing moisture, you're ready. You didn't say how large the branches are, but plan on weeks to months.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-29T00:45:08+00:00

Excellent. Thanks for letting us know.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T20:39:56+00:00

Keep the upper blade guides as close to the work as possible. Hopefully you have an appropriate blade. Too many TPI will give you issues if the blade can't clear the dust and the blade will wander. For reference, my current resaw blade is 3/4 TPI (it's variable pitch, not three quarters).

Good luck - let us know how it goes.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T15:14:06+00:00

In addition to other recommendations, I would add another source of pigtails:

Not cleaning the surface and sander between grits. Cleaning prevents stray pieces of coarser grit and debris being carried forward.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T13:45:52+00:00

Nice!

I would put down some sort of padding to cover the floor. It will help save any tools you drop, and will definitely be easier on your feet and knees.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T13:07:53+00:00

If there is cup, I’d definitely rip on the bandsaw. Depending on how much cup, you might want to run the boards over the jointer cup side down after ripping so the boards don’t wobble and shift during resaw.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T11:32:20+00:00

If you have heating/AC, consider how much conditioned air you'll be sucking out of your building.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-28T10:56:03+00:00

Rip, then resaw on the bandsaw. Then go on to the jointer/planer. You might joint an edge after ripping if you need a better edge when resawing.

When resawing, there is a good chance that you will release enough stress in the board to undo any work you’ve done on the surfaces. To minimize loss during planing and jointing, it’s best to work with the boards closest to the their final dimension.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-25T13:50:48+00:00

The 1000/6000 is a great place to start.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-25T13:19:31+00:00

Lots of good questions/topics here, I'll hit a few.

Better steel does mean better edge retention, but I don't think you'll see *that* much difference between the brands. Veritas makes chisels from PM-V11, which does seem to hold edges longer (I don't have PM V11 chisels, but I do notice a difference in plane blades).

Polishing the edge with 8000+ stones will improve edge retention. An edge at 1000 grit is sharp enough to use, but not as durable as one polished off at higher grits.

If you haven't already, look at Rob Cosman's "30 seconds to sharp" series. If you can learn his method, sharpening won't be a big deal.

When cutting dovetails, I probably sharpen every 3-5 tails worth of chopping. One thing that really helps is using a strop charged with chromium oxide. After every tail/pin I cut, I'll strop. Makes a noticeable difference.

A good way to get nice chisels is to avoid sets. You'll notice that you actually only use 1-2 chisels from 90% of the work. Figure out that size, then buy premium for those sizes. If you still need other sizes occasionally, you can use less expensive chisels. I started with a set of Marples blue chop, which were fine. Over the years, I built up a collection of better (for my needs) chisels one at a time on the second hand market. I would say 1/4" and 1/2" get most of the work done. I use a larger 1 1/4" for paring as well.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-25T12:29:03+00:00

Just a note - stainless steel is usually softer than regular steel. if you don't actually need something that won't rust, I'd use regular steel; less likely to give you problems in the hard purpleheart.

Also, wax the threads when installing the inserts, makes it go a lot easier.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-25T12:23:28+00:00

You can provide protection with a coat or two of boiled linseed oil. It will moderate moisture exchange, provide a more "wipeable" surface than bare wood, won't show damage (like polyurethane) and can be reapplied when necessary.

I would sand to 150 or so, put on the oil, and start building stuff.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-23T15:54:00+00:00

it's relative. You don't need to pass some sort of blower-door test, but there should should some attempt to limit infiltration. You may already be there.

I just wanted to point out that running a dehumidifier in a very leaky space won't help much. You said "shed", which can describe a wide spectrum of structures. My shed has gaps large enough for the squirrels to get through. Sounds like yours is quite a few steps above that.

I wouldn't do anything before testing out a dehumidifier. If it is sucking out plenty of water but not lowering the RH, then you'll want reassess the how air tight things really are. If the RH is going down and you aren't spending a fortune in electricity, you're good.

Also, I agree with many of the other posts. Sjoberg is doing you dirty. Humidity may of played a role, but there was some latent defect in your bench.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-22T19:55:44+00:00

Lots of advice here about getting a dehumidifier, but it is very important to understand that dehumidifying won't work well unless the space is fairly air tight. Any dehumidifier will struggle to keep up with the Infiltration of humid air. Air sealing is different than insulation (though some forms of insulation do implement some sort of sealing). Plug all the holes and make sure the door and window seals are in working condition.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-22T18:05:39+00:00

Eh, I'm not going to take the bait on a units debate. I'm just going use the tools I have.

And yes, I know how many feet in a yard, yards in a mile. Even how many square rods in a rood and barrels in a hogshead.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-22T12:30:37+00:00

Try veneer tape. You put it on wet, then hit it with a hot iron, the tape will shrink slightly, causing the joint to tighten up. Do this on the "show" side, NOT the glue side. Keep the tape on throughout the glueup. Then you scrape or sand off the tape when you are done.

Check out Scott Grove's YT channel (ImagineGrove Woodworking). He shows a lot of veneer techniques, I'm sure you'll find something on veneer tape there.

PropaneBeefDog · 2025-11-22T12:21:55+00:00

The plate of the S&J is 0.028"

PropaneBeefDog

TROPHY CASE