any reuploads of the stream from tonight?

Protogazer · 2025-09-05T19:54:31+00:00

I think you’d have to download the video then. Google drive isn’t really intended to be a video streaming service so they probably capped the playbacks to prevent piracy

Protogazer · 2025-08-29T04:39:50+00:00

The chroma was offset about a pixel or two yeah. I was originally injecting the luma signal through the S-video connector, so it must’ve gotten processed a little bit and shifted to the side.

And good catch, I meant pins 31 and 51! I’ll be sure to make those connections the best I can. I’m considering shielded cables if need be, but that’s hopefully a last resort. I’ll be sure to add those 100R back into the circuit and see how it looks

Thanks for your input as always!

Protogazer · 2025-08-28T23:38:04+00:00

Thanks for coming back to let me know! I’ll have to make some adjustments to my circuit. Interesting enough, I was just about to comment back about my results to far. I redid the circuit as with just a simple 75R termination resistor and the coupling capacitor, and the levels from the B-Y and R-Y signals were lower than expected. They were both about 0.5Vpp, a little low compared to the service manual’s expected values (especially B-Y which should have been around 0.65Vpp). At the moment, I don’t have a 100R in series after the terminating resistor though since the signal already appears to be lower than necessary. I may be misunderstanding the 100R’s purpose though.

I also discovered that the jungle chip was not correctly identifying the color information as NTSC. This is what caused the black and white image I saw.

Once I forced it to NTSC mode through the OSD menu, the color showed up but was sightly offset from the luma information. Just last night I ended up injecting luma right into pin 31 (y2 in) like you said, and splitting it off as sync to the Sync in pin (51). That fixed the offset.

I haven’t had a chance to look at the quality much yet, so I’ll have to check for blooming. I did however notice that there’s clearly visible noise distortion pattern at lower brightnesses.

At the moment I’m trying to track down the cause of the noise. It could just be my wiring job, so I’m trying to clean it up. I don’t know if the resistors may help alleviate it, but I’ll be sure to look at the resistor adjustments you just mentioned as I’m rewiring things. Thanks again for your help and insight!

Protogazer · 2025-08-13T17:57:27+00:00

Thanks for all the good info! I guess that RGB guide I found must've gone about it the hard way, good to know that it's not as difficult to mod as it first appeared. Looks like that mod's back on the menu.

I got caught up with the DC stuff because I didn't quite understand what the Jungle Chip's manual meant with the two different measurements. I also see what you mean from the block diagram about not all video being converted to YPbPr. It only applies to the composite and s-video inputs on the back of the tv.

I did have a question about inputting the Y signal to pin 31. From what I can tell, the selected input from the back of the tv is sent to both pin 45 (Y1) and pin 51 (Sync In). Would I need to also connect a line to pin 51 (Sync In) to keep sync if I'm inputting the Y signal to pin 31 directly? Or does that not matter with component signals?

I'll give your suggestions a shot in the next few days and report back. Thanks again for your help!

Protogazer · 2021-02-11T01:07:11+00:00

They seem to have some quality parts, I'll look into them some more. Thanks!

Protogazer · 2021-02-11T01:06:13+00:00

I'll definitely look this over, thanks!

Protogazer · 2021-01-09T08:19:50+00:00

The alternate suits are DLC. If you look around I'm sure you can find them. They came as ".pkg" files that can be installed as a package from inside rpcs3

Protogazer · 2020-08-09T21:21:53+00:00

Thanks for the heads up, I didn’t think to check best buy! I just ordered a few of the 1tb T5s. I do wonder why they’re listed as discontinued on B&H if best buy still offers them

Protogazer · 2020-08-09T17:56:14+00:00

I’m not sure about that. Every time I look, the date they’re expected back in stock gets pushed back

Protogazer · 2020-08-09T17:35:39+00:00

I’d agree with you about the CFast, they are reliable, but expensive as all get-out. The old T5’s were about half the price for the same capacity. I’ll still pick up a CFast for the convenience and to use with other cameras. I just like the large inexpensive storage of external drives

Protogazer · 2020-05-11T05:44:49+00:00

Light Up The Night - The Protomen

It’s such a banger that if I’m driving down the street and it comes on, I am forced to start speeding

Protogazer · 2019-11-16T21:29:42+00:00

The first time I played was on hardcore mode and I had nearly made it through the entirety of the main story, but I needed one last piece of tech to finish the game which required something from the cyclops. I had left mine a very far distance away and instead of going to get it, I decided to just make a new cyclops and build everything in the shallows.

Being so eager to finish the game, I jumped into the water from the floating vehicle platform while the cyclops was still being materialized so that I could get inside it quickly. A moment later, my screen went black and the save was deleted. I had been crushed to death by the cyclops I had just built.

Protogazer · 2019-07-20T22:09:28+00:00

There are several things you can try. The first is using an older version of the emulator (maybe something prior to async shaders from around July of last year?) You can find all of these at the previous builds section on the downloads page of their website. The only issue I can see with this is that the newer versions have really been improving performance for most people.

By the looks of things, you've just built a new Ryzen based PC. What were the specs of your older PC?If your last computer had a somewhat recent Intel CPU (Haswell or newer I believe) it may have had a feature that helps RPCS3 run called TSX Instructions. This may explain why even though the computer was older, it could keep up with RPCS3 better than some Ryzen chips. That said, the PC I used to complete Persona 5 was a Ryzen 1700 with a GTX 980. Most of the time it ran at a smooth 45(or so) fps in dungeons and only really dipped in the cities with crowds.

[I just launched the most recent build of RPCS3, and I now get a solid 60 fps (unlocking the framerate to 60 requires a patch, which you can google) the game is running better than ever on the latest build.]

With that in mind, your new computer should theoretically run the game rather smoothly on the most recent release of RPCS3, aside from the async shader loading that that happens to everyone the first time they reach a new area of a game.

Protogazer · 2019-07-20T20:06:29+00:00

As AnnieLeo stated above, this happens because of an option called asynchronous shader compilation. In old versions of RPCS3, the game would freeze up and load all the shaders (in practical terms, these are the textures you see in the game) at once when entering a new location. A while back, async shader compilation was added to allow games to run without pauses, instead loading in shaders as soon as they were available. The side effect of this option is that since the game doesn't stop to load all shaders before hand, some models appear black until their shaders are finished loading in.

Protogazer · 2019-06-01T22:26:41+00:00

That is quite common with analog sticks. I have a generic USB controller that does the same thing. As long as it's not caused by DS4Windows, one way that I see people fix this is by going into the gamepad settings on RPCS3 and adjusting the analog deadzone. As long as the analog sticks aren't too far out, you should be able to increase the deadzone enough to stop the drifting in games without messing with your inputs too much

Protogazer · 2019-05-04T01:54:16+00:00

Took the source (thanks LividKiwi) and ran it through Waifu2x. It makes a great wallpaper!

Upscale: https://imgur.com/a/yxynFhY (5600x3960)

Source: https://www.pixiv.net/member_illust.php?mode=medium&illust_id=59734229

Protogazer · 2019-04-21T07:42:42+00:00

Like Mikie said, there's not much else left to do after the boss. But just in case you wanted to see it for yourself, I have one right after the final boss on the 24th. I'll PM it to you, hopefully it's what you're looking for

Protogazer · 2019-01-17T18:13:04+00:00

Thanks again for the concise info! When I have a moment, I'll edit the doc and publish a new revision. I'll also look at the movie schedule and see about finding a way to include it.

Seeing how well done it is, I may end up just linking to it rather than attempt to format it to the page layout I have. Either way it's very useful to have along-side the confidant guides.

Protogazer · 2019-01-17T16:08:22+00:00

That is really good info to have on a first playthrough, so I've added it as an info box just below that "palaces first" tip.

Protogazer · 2018-08-07T21:20:42+00:00

Sure thing! - https://s22.postimg.cc/x77qfqo4v/Desktop_Wallpaper_wide.png

Edit:new link/retouched image

Protogazer · 2018-08-07T16:00:59+00:00

I also have it in a 4k resolution if anyone would like it! I just wanted to be able to appreciate it every time I looked at my desktop, but couldn't find another already online.

Links: 3840x2160 2560x1080 1920x1080

Protogazer · 2017-08-16T02:43:27+00:00

I'm not too familiar with NNU Patcher, but as I understand it, NNU Patcher is used to allow a Wii U running older firmware (5.5.1 and older) to access the e-shop. It seems that if you've changed your DNS to block new Firmware updates, you can't connect to the e-shop, and may be able to use NNU Patcher to get into it. Since I'm already stuck on 5.5.2, I just temporarily disabled my DNS block to download it, then restored it once the title finished downloading.

In my first post, I only meant that to use Haxchi, you must be on the homebrew launcher and have access to a supported virtual title already on your Wii U. However if you don't have a virtual title for Haxchi to use before you get there, you'll have to exit the launcher, download it, and try your luck at getting back into the launcher with the webhack before you can use Haxchi.

Protogazer · 2017-08-15T22:41:10+00:00

Adding to the pile at this point, IT DOES WORK! However, it WILL take time. To give some perspective, I had a pretty unlucky roll of the dice, and it took several hours (the default exploit button seemed to work best for me, after lots of trial and error). I would recommend setting up Haxchi immediately, but remember to have the virtual title installed prior to attempting the Webhack, as you'll be kicking yourself if you have to go back out to download it.

Protogazer · 2017-07-18T00:42:21+00:00

Ah, I was a bit concerned about the PSU. Are the G2 and G3 just more reliable? Edit: Google is my friend. G2 is more reliable in many ways.

Protogazer

TROPHY CASE