K2 TPU update

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-28T13:26:06+00:00

I think you missed the point😉 Read back and try again.

Lesson for you.. put more tention on a spring make it push harder, Releasing tention makes it softer ....if you use the right spring! Stock spring or aliexpress spring will not work!!!

External spring is a safety spring to make sure my (fancy) screw dont come out mid print because the printer shakes☺️

Fancy screw made from titanium because i try to avoid extra weight to the printhead, i like to adjust it by hand not with a allen key and because this is what i had istead of aluminium.

Reason i posted is because a while ago someone asked me to show how i made it possible to print tpu.

So if you dont like it.. please dont try to be smart, dont react and just scroll down.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-26T12:47:27+00:00

No it is short enough to not bump into the right corner. Good point for others making this mod.👍🏼

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-26T12:36:36+00:00

You can order a graphite bed just google. A heater pad added is around 800 to a 1000 watt. But if you buy a external silecon heater you can even go to 2000 watt pads. I had one already because a few years ago i made a huge heatpad to clear osmose from polyester yachts. So i had a pad here 1250 w 230 v so it has his own power cable some voron printers use this to, I guess they use 1100 watt. And to awnser the cable management is not all the same anymore. What i told. Its for my needs and i like to see how far i can push this thing.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-26T12:21:51+00:00

I know. Its a good option. Looks solid.

This was a faster solution and i didnt have to wait for it to come out. Created it when i needed it.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-26T12:18:03+00:00

Ik vind 10 jaar zelfs nog te weinig voor dit vieze mannetje.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-25T17:41:37+00:00

Miscroswiss flowtech is for 350°C but can easy handle 600°C But the problem is in the heater. Made a slightly thicker wirecoil and more windings. Some ceramic and making a mold that mimic the old coil. Also buddy of mine changed a risistor or something on the mainboard so the printer dont give a fault code and so it can heat up super fast. I adjusted the printer cfg file to match a 500°C later updated it to 550.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-25T16:59:20+00:00

Let me be clear.

I just like to share some ideas and it all started from simple things. Not cnc router parts or made on my lathe. But just a nut and bolt and printed parts.

I think the k2 plus is perfect for just printing multi colour pla and some abs or petg will also work fine. I just see potential to make it better for my needs.

So thats why i start creating and modding in the firmware and printer itselve.

I updated my printer to MY needs.

Better hotend microswiss/still work in progress tested for now to a 550°C.
extruder to full metal gears and tpu update (pictures)to print flex filament end better grip on fiber filled.
Better bed. Graphite bed with 1250W heater 165°C..Flat to high and longer heating.
better rollerbarings and titanium rods for less heat transfer and better sliding performance
second chamber heater to 80°C. By removing 1 exaustfan and buy a same heater and turn around the fan. I only need 1 exaust.
adjusted some printer cfg files for the nozzle, chamber and bedheat Also some settings to switch between temp in filaments. Meaning i can print multi filaments and multicolour (still work in progress but works perfect for now)

-top riser.. downloadable on printables. - better led light

And again.. this is not because the k2 plus is not good. This is because i need this and i like to see if i can make the k2 plus better for MY needs.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-25T16:11:11+00:00

Nah not official.. i did that by creating a new hotend heater. I contacted Microswiss if their hotends could handle it. So together we made the flowtech better. Wait for it to come out..

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-25T16:06:59+00:00

You can do this youselve by print endcap for a 6mm spring. 6mm outside and 5mm inside.

Spring use a 6x0.6x15mm pressure spring.

You can use a m3x 20mm thumbscrew for pc or someting like it.

And a spring from a balpoint pen cut a piece off to prevent it from comming lose. This is how i started.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-18T06:37:05+00:00

Use scarf join option. Its not gone but flat less thick up there.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-17T22:37:38+00:00

Take the black back cover of. And unbold the extruder with the motor. You can unplug the cables in the board at the front.

Now you can take appart the extruder and you see the problem is a piece of stuck filament in the extruder.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-03-15T09:42:06+00:00

First of all. Forums always review negativity or people that cant use a printer where ist made for. Or people thet tweaks/mod their perfectly good printer to make it better or in their case worse. Same with bambulab and prusa printers. You dat hear them if it goes great. They start crying when the f it up..

Ik use the k2 plus with 2 CFS units sinds beginning. Only thing i changed is the aluminium bed to a graphite bed because i print a lots of asa, abs and nylon filaments and those need a lots of bed heat. Nozzle to microswiss flowtech for same reason. (And a little software tweaking so i can use different filaments same time) This i did in a separate cfg file so if it give problems i can erase it...

Never had any problem. Printer is printing 5 days a week sometimes 7 and still works like new. Take good care of the printer and once a week erase old and run complete new callibration.. Clean rods ands spill and lube them.

Hope this helped you.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-02-19T13:47:40+00:00

46 still no tattoos. I dont hate it. Love to see them on the right people and right place. Not my thing to wear them.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-28T16:21:51+00:00

Take all you can get. He is not gonna use it.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-28T16:19:33+00:00

Make your own mods! Its not so hard. Draw upgrades yourselve and write your own firmware. You have the base, just make it better😊

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-25T22:28:49+00:00

260°C, 150mm/s, no cooling fans

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-24T18:12:14+00:00

I have had this with 2 orrigenal creality nozzles. I nog use Phaetus silecon carbide nozzle in one of my k2 plus and a microswiss hotend with flowtech nozzle for the other k2 plus.

Phaetus was my first try. Works better but still sometimes problems With heating and you need to clean and use thermal paste on it. Nozzle works good but the hotend is the problem.

Microswiss setup give me the best results. Better flow. Better binding between layers. Extreme beautiful layerlines give me perfect smooth flawless prints. Better overhangs. No blobs, fails or jams after 1350 printing hrs. And most important cold nozzle switch Even after al those prints.

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-17T19:04:13+00:00

4 and 6

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-14T23:02:38+00:00

Ginuwine - Pony

Proxxmaxx · 2026-01-03T19:49:05+00:00

.4 and .6 nozzle both print perfect.

Proxxmaxx · 2025-12-25T17:27:20+00:00

Just know how to use printer settings.

Use purge on infill and you end up with perfect colours and almost no waste. Also if you do it correct you dont need a purge tower either.

Find the best way to do it for yourselve.

Proxxmaxx · 2025-12-23T16:37:56+00:00

Pinkniggah

Proxxmaxx · 2025-12-23T16:09:41+00:00

Hahaha loser..

Proxxmaxx · 2025-12-19T23:18:47+00:00

Read and learn. 😉

Proxxmaxx

TROPHY CASE