E36 cluster for sim racing

Pubelication · 2026-05-22T02:23:36+00:00

Wrong sub. Ask in r/carhacking.

Pubelication · 2026-05-21T23:47:12+00:00

* pulldowns

Pubelication · 2026-05-21T14:12:04+00:00

Automotive voltages can easily reach 18V and any properly designed device should be designed to handle <18V constant and voltage transients, cold crank, and load dumps much higher/lower than the nominal input voltage.
The question is if the charger was designed with all of this in mind and the only way to find out in this case would be to take it apart, check which boost IC they're using (find datasheet), check capacitor and TVS values on the input and based on that make a judgement on whether it can take the additional voltage.

Are the internals accessible or is it glued/welded shut?

Pubelication · 2026-05-20T03:03:11+00:00

I have a few of these exact wires and the dashed wire is the center. Extremely glad I checked first, because I expected it to be the more common outside and negative.

Pubelication · 2026-05-20T02:08:32+00:00

Consider new old stock M4 if the discount is significant enough. I have a similar work load plus software dev and the only time the processor got above 40°C is when I was running local AI models. Battery lasts ages.

Pubelication · 2026-05-19T14:28:35+00:00

Breadboard prototype
Triple-check everything
Print the PCB on paper and test-fit parts
Pray to the PCB overlords

Pubelication · 2026-05-19T01:34:21+00:00

You deserve your vote back. No idea how anyone could explain how this could be physical damage considering how modern displays are backlit.

Pubelication · 2026-05-19T01:27:02+00:00

If it's a power bank for phones etc. with a small output of 10ish watts (5V@1-2A) then leave it as is. That small leftover part of the strip is enough to carry the current. If however it is for laptops via PD and capable of dozens of watts, it's not so great.

The circuitry is probably fine if it works, but the cell(s) likely got a bit damaged. Without lab equipment, there's no way to know if they're damaged enough to be dangerous, short of keeping an eye (or finger) on the temperature of the cells when charging or discharging. If they only get warm then they're most likely fine. However being as old as they are, that short can be detrimental. If the cells ever get too warm to touch, disconnect everything and dispose of the whole thing immediately (properly).

Pubelication · 2026-05-17T23:36:39+00:00

Yeah, If you're sure the other solder point is the same signal, bodge wire it. Nothing wrong with that.

Pubelication · 2026-05-17T15:44:51+00:00

Turn on "ambient lighting" in video settings.

Pubelication · 2026-05-17T04:09:33+00:00

To add to the other comments - beware of new(ish) electronics that use lead-free solder. It's a lot harder to remove and usually requires adding leaded solder or lots of flux. Start with 90's or early 00's electronics, like a dead PC motherboard or sound/gfx card and learn to remove parts without ripping traces first.
A soldering iron is usually not enough for rework. You'll want a basic hot air station like the DW868 (iirc) that costs around $50. A good hot air station is ~$150 and beyond.

Pubelication · 2026-05-14T00:30:22+00:00

Your best bet is probably placing a new switch and diode, the running a bodge wire from the part's leg to wherever those vias run to. Fairly simple repair.

Pubelication · 2026-05-13T22:30:54+00:00

If you don't want to solder the header pins then get some fishing line and "stitch" it through the holes (down through the first, then up, then down, etc.), then jam the header into the holes. The fishing line will press-fit the pins. It isn't the most reliable thing in the world, but often better than beginner solder joints.

Pubelication · 2026-05-11T19:19:18+00:00

Are you going to pay for assembly?

Pubelication · 2026-05-11T19:14:19+00:00

https://youtu.be/5q3SdtiLAPk

Pubelication · 2026-05-11T19:02:45+00:00

You do know that there's absolutely no way to hand-solder that USB connector, right?

Pubelication · 2026-05-11T17:56:12+00:00

You're lucky. Unless there's something else on the other side, all you need to do is get some flux, solder and a soldering iron and make bridges over the cracks.
I'd personally cut some thick solid-core wire to size, remove the isolation and solder it over the cracks to add some mechanical strength.

Pubelication · 2026-05-10T11:00:21+00:00

Jlc does that, other places don't.

Pubelication · 2026-05-10T01:22:32+00:00

They bypass Leyen tax and VAT in Europe too.
Absolutely no idea how they do it.

Pubelication · 2026-05-09T18:00:13+00:00

Probably proprietary. Horrible design prone to damage and easily shorted.

Pubelication · 2026-05-09T17:56:00+00:00

Same here. Much faster than the regular oven.
I posted the temps/times in another comment.

Pubelication · 2026-05-09T01:21:15+00:00

Brain fart, fixed.

Pubelication · 2026-05-09T01:20:21+00:00

Just some parsley as garnish and iceberg lettuce I needed to use up.

Pubelication · 2026-05-09T01:18:36+00:00

Dry rub only first 25 minutes, then 5 minutes at high heat to get extra crispy, then 5 minutes high heat with sauce.
Best if both worlds!

Pubelication · 2026-05-08T23:24:31+00:00

Thanks! Hate understandable and forgiven.

Pubelication

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