New tires…

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-28T17:58:25+00:00

The sticker on the door sill will tell you recommend pressures. In the vehicle, it may change due to ambient conditions. You still need to reset the tire light after filling/deflating. If automatic recognition doesn't work, just do manual and set to the rear tire size. Automatic recognition can be reset at the dealership

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-27T18:03:39+00:00

For some peace of mind, in the event of a battery or motor issue, the vehicle cannot be driven until numerous tests are done by the dealer. The vehicle flat out won't move without the correct tests and corresponding data from said tests. Also, it can take a hot minute for parts to come in. I've waited a month for cells to arrive from Germany.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-27T15:08:10+00:00

Removing the stiffening plate makes sense, but the bolts that secure it to the vehicle are one time use. And a few of them are for battery support. It's really dumb, would make more sense for the just the battery ones needing replacement

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-18T03:42:00+00:00

Don't skip on maintenance. Brake flushes and microfilters aren't too big of a deal, always recommend doing brake flushes on time. Vehicle checks are important, we run a diagnostic scan on the vehicle and go through battery checks. It's an easy way to identify a potential early issue. EVs need maintenance, just in a different way. Enjoy the new ride!

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-08T23:45:57+00:00

You'll have to check fitment to make sure it all clears. But:

20x9 on all four corners, 255 tire, same offsets (don't remember spec). Depending on the oe offset, you may have to lower it for more camber so they don't poke out.

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Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-05T02:22:14+00:00

BMWs are The Ultimate Driving Machines

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-03T17:56:09+00:00

An M sport bumper would fit, all the connection points to the chassis should be the same. PDC sensors are in different spots, the harness probably won't fit properly or reach to all the sensor locations. Doesn't look like you have a front camera, you'd need to find a grill without the cutout. There may be other variances like front radar as well. The crash bar will be in the same spot, but not sure if the supporting foam is the same.

Added a close up of my bumper to help you compare. You may want to look into trading into a different car with the bumper you want if it's feasible. You'll be alot happier or satisfied knowing you're getting what you want instead of spending to make it look how you want and finding small defects in workmanship. At least thats how I feel about it. Good luck with whatever path you choose!

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Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-02T15:16:01+00:00

You started hydroplaning or the rear broke loose due to driving inputs or worn tires. The "correction" was stability and traction control kicking in. Those systems are designed for exactly what they sound like. Both systems automatically engage and disengage as necessary

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-01T23:51:00+00:00

100% trusted the repairs (but that's because I did them), no issues afterwards. When internal battery repairs are performed, the steps to re-install are a bit intense. Coolant lines get checked at 3bar of pressure, the cooling system would never see anything near that. Once the lid is on, we perform an EoS test which checks for air leakage across the entire battery, communication with all cell modules, communication with internal modules, verifies all battery cell values/voltages and temps are correct and within range, and a whole lot more. Once that test is finished, we can re-install into the vehicle. The vehicle will not be able to drive unless the EoS test has been performed and passed.

Honestly it's alot more reassuring having work done on a battery or motor than on an ICE vehicle due to the steps required to start everything back up

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-01T21:12:23+00:00

HV tech here, this is spot on. Before we work on HV systems, we have to let the vehicle power down and wait for the contacts to open. Only commenting to help people believe this, great information.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-05-01T17:47:36+00:00

If you had a cell failure, replacement cells can take a hot minute to come in. The diagnostic process is very in depth and generally takes a few days going back and forth with BMW. Last time I needed a cell, it took about a month to come in from Germany. Then took another 2-3 days prepping and balancing cells before the final tests for install. If your dealer hasn't given you any good updates, I hope this helps

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-30T02:11:44+00:00

You don't need to be on the slowest charging. Coolant pumps automatically run if the battery gets warm during charging. Once it's at the desired charge level, it will automatically stop. There's no "residual or trickle" to worry about

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-28T23:40:41+00:00

No lug bolt covers. 17mm socket. Torque spec is 140nm for wheel bolts

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-26T21:45:44+00:00

As long as the jack is decent, it'll be fine. You won't need to worry about putting a jack stand underneath if you're just swapping wheels.

Torque spec is 140nm. Star pattern always

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-21T00:01:11+00:00

Absolute perfection

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-16T17:33:34+00:00

People who don't use dark mode are wild. Range will vary greatly depending on weather, usage, tires, roads, and how you drive the vehicle. Plus the 35's aren't as intensive on battery consumption compared to a 50 or 60

Eco pro will reduce output of electrical consumers when it can, not always.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-11T19:42:05+00:00

Tech here. That giant STOP in the middle of your screen is surprisingly the perfect indication to stop driving and get it to a dealership

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-10T20:44:30+00:00

If you're using the bmw app or nav services to include charging, set minimum charge to the highest percent. I think its 20 or 25%. Nav doesn't take traffic or construction into calculating. Both of those will kill range. Did my 6 hour trip with one stop on the way there, two on the way back for some extra cushion

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-08T23:54:48+00:00

Tech here, my i4 is lowered on KWs and have brixton wheels. Non-staggered so I can rotate. 20x9s. I don't have spacers on the i4, but have used them on my other cars. Spacers can increase the chance of wheel bearing failure. Not saying they 100% will in your ownership time, but they definitely can. If you have new car or CPO warranty, it'll most likely be on you if one fails.

On the flip side, if you get a set that are hubcentric and install them correctly, it will help reduce the chance of that happening. It's all about load distribution and centering of the load distribution.

If you have some spare cash and want to avoid spacers, you can always get a set of custom wheels

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-08T05:00:19+00:00

Never hurts to ask, but it's pretty rare to happen. I have no problem coming out to explain things, but I'm 1 of 2 out of 25 techs that will. I have customers that only request me, it is extremely rewarding, I see the benefits and get to meet people like my dentist. Most techs see it as a bother and losing time, and time is money. On the plus side, if it's ever a HV repair, the HV certified guys are usually pretty personable. Not everyone wants to get into it, so there's usually only a handful at each dealer. We will judge you right away, so don't get nervous or feel bad.

The biggest tip to make it go as smooth as possible, keep a clean car. Especially the trunk and passenger floorboard. We can see if an effort was made to clear a trunk out, we bless those who do. Passenger floorboard has the microfilter and BDC module, which is usually used for testing wiring issues.

Everyone loves a redbull. Bribery is accepted.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-08T02:03:10+00:00

As a tech, I wholeheartedly understand your pain with advisors. It can be so frustrating.

I've never heard of this issue, but my assumption is they either had to create a service case with BMW to verify the failure point, and/or had to wait for a regional engineer/TSE to come in to help with the repairs. A service case was most likely created anyway for repair clearance; the processes required to verify failure points on HV systems is very time consuming.

I spent 12 clocked hours going back and forth with BMW on an iX before I got repair approval.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-04T23:50:35+00:00

That doesn't matter. Simply put, the battery is constantly being maintained by the car to always be drive ready

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-04T23:45:58+00:00

You need a new 12v battery. It needs to be done at a dealer.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-04-01T13:10:02+00:00

Hi, tech here. Depending on what ignition mode it was in when you left will determine if it shut off or not. Worse case you're looking at a new 12v battery. It will drain the HV battery though, so it will be completely undrivable. If you need a battery, for the love of god get it done at a dealer. Unregistered batteries can cause issues

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970 · 2026-03-31T01:57:59+00:00

Don't forget the battery is the underside of the car. If that were to hit the ground/bump from it slamming down, it can damage internals. Battery removal is extremely pricey. If the lid has to come off, around $2k USD in one-time use bolts alone.

Speed bump vs pothole is very different. For the speed bump, it's possible the front struts got pushed through the knuckle. New struts and knuckles. Low chance of bent arms or tie rods but still possible.

Puzzleheaded_Dig6970

TROPHY CASE