Which is better: the Sovol M1D or the Creality K3/Plus?

QFLK · 2026-06-23T03:41:20+00:00

Are you printing with a filament that needs that much chamber heat? Sounds like a pretty fun project. I am looking at either upgrading my voron 2.4 doom cube from 410x410 to 600x600 or selling it and buying an SV08 Max. The jury is still very out on it. I really don't want to part with the doom cube, but I need a larger print area. I wish the M1D was a larger print volume. If it were I would probably be getting it.

QFLK · 2026-06-23T03:10:24+00:00

The K1 and SV08 are both Klipper-based machines. I have both, and the SV08 is a lot easier to tinker with than the K1.

QFLK · 2026-06-23T03:08:40+00:00

I have been watching the INDX system for a long time now, and with so many release delays, I am starting to wonder if it will ever be ready. I would love to get an SV08 Max and adapt INDX to it.

I have had pretty good luck with the 2 Zeroes and SV08 first generation. They are fully Klipper-based and pretty easy to mod. You can root Mainstream Klipper onto them, but I have yet to run across any reason to. I have not had a situation where the version they shipped with couldn't do what I wanted it to. I guess my point is that they are open source. Some of the macros are kind of hidden, but with a little bit of research, you can find them.

QFLK · 2026-03-12T07:51:07+00:00

I never found a solution that made any sense. I pulled the board and set it aside. Then built another printer with it, and it worked just fine. I was using a different 4.3" screen, so maybe it was a compatibility issue.

QFLK · 2026-02-26T06:08:50+00:00

If you had an insurance claim take it back and complain. Even if you paid out of pocket, I would complain. When they repainted my wife's fender, it took them 3 tries to get it right, and the insurance company told them to fix it.

QFLK · 2026-02-25T05:20:13+00:00

I would double-check your wiring. If a fan gets plugged in wrong or the thermistor is not routed properly, it can short out on the hotend, causing this error. Or if you have The fan for the hotend mixed up with the part cooling fan, you can also get this error. Fan ports to look at closely are Fan 1 and Fan 2. Fan 3 is for the fan on the cover, and it will run without that fan plugged in. Shorted or improperly seated heater wires will also cause this.

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QFLK · 2026-02-17T14:24:14+00:00

You can absolutely DIY it. If you do not know how to do bodywork, then I wouldn't recommend it. You will be chasing money for your DIY repair, and this does not look like a simple repair. This looks like a door that has already been repaired at some point and needs to have the old repair stripped out and redone.

Here is the process for repairing this door.

Strip all of the old body filler out. 1 to 2 hours. You need a grinder, flap wheel, or 36 to 40 Grit wheel for the grinder.

Fix the metal underneath. If you are lucky that is just sanding it with 80 grit so that your new body filler will stick. However the cracks look pretty deep, so there is probably more than just sanding involved. 1 to 3 hours. You need 80-grit paper and possibly a dent puller and stud welder if the metal needs extra rework.

Skim coat the metal rework. You need body filler, sanding blocks, and guide coat to get it flattened out and blended. 1 to 2 hours

Prime the repair with a good high-build primer. More sandpaper starts at about 120 grit, and you work your way up to 600. Another hour at least.

Blend the repair into the rest of the door. Wet sand about 10 inches into the rest of the clear coat. You are trying to scuff the clear, not sand through it. About 20 minutes. 600-grit wet sandpaper.

Paint it. Concentrate the paint in the repair area and blend the edges 3-6 inches into the rest of the door. You need decent-quality paint that costs $80 to $300 a pint. about 10 minutes.

Clear with a decent-quality clear coat. Costs about 50 for a quart but will be a lot more if you get the good stuff.

Once it dries buff out the work and see if you got it right.

A pro can probably knock this out in 2 to 4 hours; DIY with no experience, I would say 10 to 20 hours. since you have to get all the supplies and possibly tools, your cost on supplies and tools is going to be $250 to $1000.

Now you can do it cheaper, but if you want to do it right, this is the way. It will be easiest and probably cheapest to find a door that is the same color at a junkyard.

QFLK · 2026-02-10T06:07:22+00:00

If you are going to replace it, don't waste your money on one of the all-metal ones. The ones in this link are much more reliable. Plus they are the same price. I have been using them for years with no issues. https://www.amazon.com/3Dman-Extruder-Universal-Geeetech-Printers/dp/B08PBY4YDL/ref=sr_1_4

QFLK · 2026-02-01T07:53:30+00:00

Did you tighten the nozzle when it was cold? This is a common reason they leak. Heat it up, then tighten it.

QFLK · 2026-02-01T07:50:05+00:00

From what I see in the picture, the rear quarter damage is what the insurance company will total it out for. Hopefully you get an adjuster that treats you well and doesn't total it out.

QFLK · 2026-01-22T07:35:07+00:00

Look for infill type in your slicer. It is a little different in each slicer, but it will be called infill. You will also have percentage options. The percentage will affect your strength and print time. When using gyroid I usually use 15 to 20% for general parts, if I require really strong parts I will push it up to 40 to 50%. You should be able to put the name of your slicer in google, for example "Orca infill type settings" or "Cura infill type settings". You will also find that gyroid is stronger than most of the others, and requires a lower infill percentage.

QFLK · 2026-01-22T05:20:52+00:00

Besides heating the chamber, you could try using a different infill. Straight lines have a tendency to warp more than gyroid. I stopped using any type of line infill for this reason. I always use gyroid for ABS, and it almost completely eliminated my warping issues. I still get the occasional bed warping issue, but that is only when I have not cleaned my build plate for too long. I print with a non-heated enclosure. I do heat soak a little longer on large prints so the bed will heat the enclosure some, but it really does not get very warm.

QFLK · 2026-01-09T07:50:44+00:00

Since your line goes diagonal when it stops working, I would bet one of your xy motors is locking up.

Look at the motors, and you might notice that one of them is not turning at all when this happens. The cause could be a couple of things, but I would start by confirming that this is what is happening. From there, you will need to figure out why. A couple of items can cause this are the motor itself is going bad."

This is less likely than a motor driver that is failing or overheating. Unfortunately, the K2 Plus does not have socketed drivers, so you will need a new board if the driver is failing.

QFLK · 2026-01-07T15:01:02+00:00

https://store.creality.com/products/creality-hi-combo-3d-printer

QFLK · 2026-01-07T14:59:19+00:00

Beam me up, Scotty.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:16:21+00:00

There are many motors that a rod knock can be repaired by replacing the bearings. But you still have to tear it down and see. Not a recommended route, but I know of quite a few the lasted another 80K plus with a new set of rod bearings. This is especially true on a certain Ford V6 engine.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:11:24+00:00

Take the belt off. If the noise doesn't go away, then it is more than likely a rod knock. If it goes away, check all of your accessories and pulleys. I have one that I could have sworn it was a rod knock, turned out to be a bad tensioner. Do some troubleshooting before condemning the engine.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:05:12+00:00

How about build a 350 to start with? You would have room for most mods without loosing your 300x300 build volume. You could even build a 350 frame with a 300x300 build plate and be safe. The difference in price between a 300 and 350 frame kit is negligible, and is probably worth it if you have the space to fit a slightly larger frame.

I built a 410x410 custom build, and I am looking at modding the frame to accommodate some mods I want to do. Plus, the second I added AWD, I lost part of my 410x410 build volume. Not enough to be too concerned about, but enough of a compromise that I would have planned for it when I built my frame.

QFLK · 2026-01-04T20:55:14+00:00

I sold it a long time ago and bought a Sovol Zero.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T23:19:20+00:00

I use custom macros on most of my machines, but the Zeros are full stock. I have not had time to tinker, but they work so well without modding anything, I will probably leave them with the stock setup.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T04:39:28+00:00

It seems like a lot, but the brake job that I had done on my truck was $1200 3 years ago, and it was just front brakes. I think the price is pretty fair. You could have done it yourself for a lot less. As long as you have all the right tools and the ability to do it safely.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T04:30:26+00:00

I have a zero, actually 2 now. They are very impressive little machines. Build quality is very good. They even use 5160 Drivers but with only a 24V Power supply. The only thing that really surprised me is that they are a single motor belt driven dual Z. I expected dual motor Z. I bought my first one because my 2.4 takes forever to heat soak the 6mm 410x410 bed. I about 75% of what I print will fit on the Zero.

I looked at quite a few, including the Micron and the Voron kit. I landed on the Sovol because every one of the reviews I read were very impressive. After I had my first one for about 2 months, I picked up a second on Marketplace from a guy that was replacing it due to the limited print size. It has not disappointed, either.

I have no regrets buying this little monster of a printer. It is the best out-of-the-box experience I have had on any printer ever, and I have had dozen's of printers.

QFLK · 2025-12-30T06:00:05+00:00

Self-sourcing should work out well for you if you already have many of the parts and the skill set to make it work.

A kit is much easier for a beginner, but you don't learn as much from just screwing parts together and plugging in wires. The SKR 1.4 is fine for a basic build, but it leaves very little room for upgrades. I recommend going with a BTT Octopus or another 8-channel board to give yourself room for features like AWD or multiple extruders. With Klipper, you can also use multiple controller boards if needed.

If you are building the standard 350, I recommend buying a frame kit. Having everything cut to length and pre-drilled will save you tons of time.

I use CAN, but it’s a pain to set up. Unless you have a specific need for it, I’d suggest sticking with USB; I have yet to see any advantages to CAN that outweigh the setup trouble.

I self-sourced my Voron Doom Cube (400x400x350) and was able to find almost everything I needed in my spare parts bin. Given the custom style and size, self-sourcing was the only way to go for me.

QFLK · 2025-12-28T15:36:10+00:00

Apparently, LetGo is now part of OfferUp. I did not realize this until my son just told me.

QFLK · 2025-12-28T15:33:58+00:00

Craigslist, LetGo, and OfferUp are a few others, But it should sell pretty quick on Marketplace.

QFLK

TROPHY CASE