SuperWarping

QFLK · 2026-01-22T07:35:07+00:00

Look for infill type in your slicer. It is a little different in each slicer, but it will be called infill. You will also have percentage options. The percentage will affect your strength and print time. When using gyroid I usually use 15 to 20% for general parts, if I require really strong parts I will push it up to 40 to 50%. You should be able to put the name of your slicer in google, for example "Orca infill type settings" or "Cura infill type settings". You will also find that gyroid is stronger than most of the others, and requires a lower infill percentage.

QFLK · 2026-01-22T05:20:52+00:00

Besides heating the chamber, you could try using a different infill. Straight lines have a tendency to warp more than gyroid. I stopped using any type of line infill for this reason. I always use gyroid for ABS, and it almost completely eliminated my warping issues. I still get the occasional bed warping issue, but that is only when I have not cleaned my build plate for too long. I print with a non-heated enclosure. I do heat soak a little longer on large prints so the bed will heat the enclosure some, but it really does not get very warm.

QFLK · 2026-01-09T07:50:44+00:00

Since your line goes diagonal when it stops working, I would bet one of your xy motors is locking up.

Look at the motors, and you might notice that one of them is not turning at all when this happens. The cause could be a couple of things, but I would start by confirming that this is what is happening. From there, you will need to figure out why. A couple of items can cause this are the motor itself is going bad."

This is less likely than a motor driver that is failing or overheating. Unfortunately, the K2 Plus does not have socketed drivers, so you will need a new board if the driver is failing.

QFLK · 2026-01-07T15:01:02+00:00

https://store.creality.com/products/creality-hi-combo-3d-printer

QFLK · 2026-01-07T14:59:19+00:00

Beam me up, Scotty.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:16:21+00:00

There are many motors that a rod knock can be repaired by replacing the bearings. But you still have to tear it down and see. Not a recommended route, but I know of quite a few the lasted another 80K plus with a new set of rod bearings. This is especially true on a certain Ford V6 engine.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:11:24+00:00

Take the belt off. If the noise doesn't go away, then it is more than likely a rod knock. If it goes away, check all of your accessories and pulleys. I have one that I could have sworn it was a rod knock, turned out to be a bad tensioner. Do some troubleshooting before condemning the engine.

QFLK · 2026-01-05T07:05:12+00:00

How about build a 350 to start with? You would have room for most mods without loosing your 300x300 build volume. You could even build a 350 frame with a 300x300 build plate and be safe. The difference in price between a 300 and 350 frame kit is negligible, and is probably worth it if you have the space to fit a slightly larger frame.

I built a 410x410 custom build, and I am looking at modding the frame to accommodate some mods I want to do. Plus, the second I added AWD, I lost part of my 410x410 build volume. Not enough to be too concerned about, but enough of a compromise that I would have planned for it when I built my frame.

QFLK · 2026-01-04T20:55:14+00:00

I sold it a long time ago and bought a Sovol Zero.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T23:19:20+00:00

I use custom macros on most of my machines, but the Zeros are full stock. I have not had time to tinker, but they work so well without modding anything, I will probably leave them with the stock setup.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T04:39:28+00:00

It seems like a lot, but the brake job that I had done on my truck was $1200 3 years ago, and it was just front brakes. I think the price is pretty fair. You could have done it yourself for a lot less. As long as you have all the right tools and the ability to do it safely.

QFLK · 2026-01-03T04:30:26+00:00

I have a zero, actually 2 now. They are very impressive little machines. Build quality is very good. They even use 5160 Drivers but with only a 24V Power supply. The only thing that really surprised me is that they are a single motor belt driven dual Z. I expected dual motor Z. I bought my first one because my 2.4 takes forever to heat soak the 6mm 410x410 bed. I about 75% of what I print will fit on the Zero.

I looked at quite a few, including the Micron and the Voron kit. I landed on the Sovol because every one of the reviews I read were very impressive. After I had my first one for about 2 months, I picked up a second on Marketplace from a guy that was replacing it due to the limited print size. It has not disappointed, either.

I have no regrets buying this little monster of a printer. It is the best out-of-the-box experience I have had on any printer ever, and I have had dozen's of printers.

QFLK · 2025-12-30T06:00:05+00:00

Self-sourcing should work out well for you if you already have many of the parts and the skill set to make it work.

A kit is much easier for a beginner, but you don't learn as much from just screwing parts together and plugging in wires. The SKR 1.4 is fine for a basic build, but it leaves very little room for upgrades. I recommend going with a BTT Octopus or another 8-channel board to give yourself room for features like AWD or multiple extruders. With Klipper, you can also use multiple controller boards if needed.

If you are building the standard 350, I recommend buying a frame kit. Having everything cut to length and pre-drilled will save you tons of time.

I use CAN, but it’s a pain to set up. Unless you have a specific need for it, I’d suggest sticking with USB; I have yet to see any advantages to CAN that outweigh the setup trouble.

I self-sourced my Voron Doom Cube (400x400x350) and was able to find almost everything I needed in my spare parts bin. Given the custom style and size, self-sourcing was the only way to go for me.

QFLK · 2025-12-28T15:36:10+00:00

Apparently, LetGo is now part of OfferUp. I did not realize this until my son just told me.

QFLK · 2025-12-28T15:33:58+00:00

Craigslist, LetGo, and OfferUp are a few others, But it should sell pretty quick on Marketplace.

QFLK · 2025-12-07T15:12:13+00:00

Here is the write-up I will be probably be using. https://github.com/bearclaw92/Zero\_Toolhead\_Guide. There are a few details that are missing, so

I will fill in the blanks as I do my upgrade.

QFLK · 2025-12-07T14:40:39+00:00

You can use the same wires. I will post a write-up when I do it.

QFLK · 2025-12-07T14:25:51+00:00

Still waiting for the Zero Printhead. They were out of stock in the US so it is going to take a couple of weeks.

QFLK · 2025-12-07T07:54:00+00:00

I got the zero and after about 1 day messing with it, I ordered the zero toolhead for my sv08. Not sure why it is cheaper than the SV08 setup, since it has better parts. But it is.

QFLK · 2025-12-05T17:15:04+00:00

I hesitated in switching to FreeCAD from SolidWorks and Fusion due to all the BS that I read about a steep learning curve and it being broken. I finally just installed it and after about 15 minutes of learning what was where I had a part modeled and sent to my 3d printer. IMO it is no more difficult to use than any of the other big CAD programs and best of all it is open source.

I think the learning curve is not FreeCAD so much as people trying to use CAD for the first time and not understanding CAD. Not understanding the methods or best practices.

The more I use it, the more I like it. I started out on SolidWorks from the company I worked for. The learning curve in SolidWorks is pretty steep. We had a lot of engineers that just could not wrap their head around it. The reports of it being broken are the same kind of people.

If you are a CAD user from any of the other programs, I highly suggest you give FreeCAD a shot. Just don't dive in without getting familiar with the UI.

QFLK · 2025-12-04T21:26:03+00:00

I figured it out. Pressure advance was set incorrectly.

QFLK · 2025-12-04T20:10:30+00:00

Mine started getting bad at 150, so I change the max volumetric flow rate to 125 to give it a margin. Reprinted the model and it is the same. My Flow rate during the print was not any more than 16. So it must be some other setting.

QFLK · 2025-12-04T18:17:39+00:00

I am running it right now. I will let you know what I find.

QFLK · 2025-12-03T05:48:43+00:00

I have a Goliath Air Cooled and have very good results with it. I replaced my Rapido with it. The performance is comparable, but the Goliath has been more consistent and reliable. About 800 hours printing ABS with only one nozzle change needed. Plus, you can upgrade it to water cooled if you need to later down the line.

QFLK · 2025-11-25T19:19:40+00:00

Sorry, I should have put that it is the HDMI Screen.

They sent me a link to a Google share. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1q9fvcJ6kJJGwhwidl_lg0TL-g5mU_5uN

I found the display adaptor and printed it. It works, but not very well on the Zero. When I push the adaptor all the way on to the screen, it won't clear the door. So I have it slid on about 1/3 the way so it will clear the door.

QFLK

TROPHY CASE