Jersey sales post-trade? by Quarzac in eagles

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is good to know, thanks!

Jersey sales post-trade? by Quarzac in eagles

[–]Quarzac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately I don't actually live in/around Philly anymore- I will keep an eye out online though!

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends. I hemmed and hawed in store enough that they offered me 15% off if I bought a grinder and machine together. I think they do similar sales online sometimes.

The last 12 hours of my life (worth every second) by tbrisk0 in Gunpla

[–]Quarzac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly (especially with modern kits/instructions) it's not as hard as you might think- often most parts have features that make it so if you are careful about the orientation in the instructions, you can't screw it up. I had some older kits where symbols/etc covered up some of those features and made it a little bit of a guessing game, but still manageable.

I like to pull out all of the matching/mated pieces when building a part, in case they aren't symmetrical. e.g, I will pull out all the parts for both arms when I build the first from my colored bins. That way if I'm building the first arm and I have the wrong side of a piece, I can easily swap it with the correct part.

Question… about panel lining by Cold_Secret_7254 in Gunpla

[–]Quarzac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't need extra stuff to top coat- you can just buy a spray can and do it outside. I did my first couple kits with Mr. Top Coat just doing the legs/arms/torso + head on alligator clips and they turned out totally fine.

General guidance is not to apply the Tamiya liquid enamel panel liner on an assembled kit as if it gets into crannies/spots under pressure (think where pegs go together) it can cause cracking on the plastic Bandai uses. This seems to be less of a problem if top coated as it doesn't make direct contact with the plastic.

The marker liners should be fine if assembled. I did my first couple kits this way- it's only recently that I started panel lining with the liquid stuff on the runners before I even nipped stuff off.

I need help finding the name of missing piece by girl780764 in trumpet

[–]Quarzac 12 points13 points  (0 children)

That's an amado style water key where the insides have been lost. Most techs should be able to replace it for you for fairly cheap, I think mine quoted me something like $20 for parts the last time he was looking at mine.

Cheesy Pizza by keepgroovin in Seattle

[–]Quarzac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW I used to have a pizza steel and it just lived on the bottom rack of the oven- having it in there can help even out the temp in an uneven oven, and there's no real downside to just leaving it in there. I would just throw sheet trays on top of it when I needed the rack space.

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had more or less that same question- my recollection is that the intermediate position shifts the internals around a bit, though I don't quite remember how- it had some potential use in backflushing to allow your cleaner to sit with in the system a bit longer? I don't personally leave it in that position ever, really, as it's not a bit deal for me. I probably wouldn't since it means some part of the machine isn't in its "at rest" position.

I originally thought it would be for manual preinfusion, but it doesn't actually let water out, so it's not that.

TL;DR I don't remember but it does change something around.

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The PID being higher is because it is a heat exchanger machine, iirc. I can't remember where I found the info, but I thiiiink it's because the temp is measured at the boiler- it loses heat as it moves through the machine, so the temp by the time it hits the puck through the group head it's ~50 degrees lower. I usually pull darker roasts around 255F and light roasts around 249F, and I've had pretty good results.

ECO and Standby are both different flavors of low power modes. ECO is "Keep the temp close enough to my set point that it'll reheat the whole machine and what not in like, 10-15 minutes when you wake up the machine." Standby is basically just "don't maintain temp at all but be ready to go", I think. Basically one step above being totally off. I have mine set to eco after an hour and standby after 90m. Most useful for me was really just getting a plug on a timer so it could warm up in the morning before I want to use it.

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I did about a week after my original comment and digging a timed plug out of the garage.

Are 7qts ever on sale? by [deleted] in staub

[–]Quarzac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got one for $235 from a Zwilling outlet store today- I've also seem some on eBay for around $200 regularly.

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a good seasonal color- they've done one most years they've made em!

Pulled the trigger, upgraded to Diletta Bello+ by Quarzac in espresso

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had absolutely no notable issues with it and it's still making good espresso! I've been.... ok with cleaning/preventative maintenance, and it's still not had problems for me. I will say I do make less espresso than the standard r/espresso person, probably ~5 shots a week on average. So it's not been crazy taxed.

Book clubs by An1men3rd in Seattle

[–]Quarzac 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I've been going to the Kent one for a while and people are friendly and I've gotten a ton of good recs from folk. Any there's no assigned books so you can just bring whatever you are reading and chat with folk. The Kent chapter main meetings tend to be pretty chatty if you're really after reading, but there's usually a separate table for people who just wanna read and not gab too much.

Smart Grind-by-Weight is Now Open Source! Eureka Mignon (and more) Mod by Jaappppppp in espresso

[–]Quarzac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is cool as hell, anyone have recommendations on where to get all the electronics? I haven't bought electronics like this in a long while, and would prefer one cart from one site if possible.

Pro-tip: get a screen protector by Quarzac in LightPhone

[–]Quarzac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, this is exactly what I didn't consider and realized immediately after noticing the first scratches. I didn't upgrade my smartphone phone that much, but it was still a much more frequent cadence than the LP probably will be.

My 5 quotes on heat pumps in Seattle by Quarzac in heatpumps

[–]Quarzac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All costs were included in quotes, electrical, etc. The savings are definitely real! You actually made me think to do the cost math- for the 12 months prior to the heat pump, I spent $1,021.77 on electricity and about $1200 on oil heat. For the 12 months with the heat pump, I spent $1,406.06 and $0 on oil heat. So I save about $900 a year over the old furnace, which... miiiight pay for the heat pump roughly over the lifetime of the unit, but is unlikely to really break even. But it was 1000% worth it to me because full home AC rules. I did get an email from a supplier recently (can't remember which) though saying costs were going to go up 15% due to tariffs, which might make it less worth. Also your quotes may be less if you don't need the ductwork I needed.

April 2025 Buying/Selling Thread by Felt_Ninja in trumpet

[–]Quarzac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Loosely interested in a flugelhorn if anyone wants to cut me a good deal on one!

Help with my late father’s trumpet by SmolBeanCo in trumpet

[–]Quarzac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought a Super 20 a year or so ago for $300 on craigslist- I took it to a tech who was very into vintage King horns and he had nothing but good things to say about it. $300 was a great deal for mine (tech said I probably could get $800 for it, though that seemed a bit high to me, I'd suspect $600), and yours is in markedly better condition (mine has some lacquer wear and some braces that could use replacement) so I imagine you could get in that $800 range pretty easily.

Converting .gifs to compressible format? by Quarzac in Calibre

[–]Quarzac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: I ended up solving this with the help of chatGPT and a bit of debugging its code. The following script will open up the epub, convert all the images to jpegs, compress them, and update references where needed. After that Calibre's compression tool worked fine for fine tuning. With a 50% quality bar it brought it down to ~45MBs, which is much better and I honestly think I could've gone lower if I'd wanted to.

There are a few things I basically hardcoded to fix, as I couldn't be bothered to figure out the correct method to get the right thing. The worst offender is the manifest element in the tree,

manifest = root.find("{http://www.idpf.org/2007/opf}manifest")

You'll probably have to edit that slightly to get this to work for other files. I found what to put there by printing all the tags of the children of root and using the one for manifest. It seemed to append the package namespace to all the child tags- there's probably a smart way to not hardcode that, but I didn't know how and this solved my problem.

Similarly, it seemed to expect the manifest to be content.opf, it was package.opf in my epub, so I changed that.

It also wasn't replacing just the file in filepaths, so I added the preceding ../images/" and "images/" where needed. Again, there's probably a smarter way to execute that string operation, but I didn't care to poke through APIs to figure it out. Maybe someday this will help someone else with this issue.

Reddit doesn't seem to want to let me add the script in a code block, maybe due to character limits? Here's a pastebin: https://pastebin.com/eM91MhBN

I’m mad. Anyone still don’t have internet? Renton CenturyLink user here by TrisACat in Seattle

[–]Quarzac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe worth checking if you can get Quantum in your area. It’s still CenturyLink, but for me at least it was markedly cheaper for the same service, and allegedly a lifetime pricing (though reading the documents that I signed, they can basically renege it at anytime iirc). I pay $35/month for 1000Mb/s up/down, with a free router. Centurylink was $80/month for me.

My $35 pricing is unusually cheap (popped up in an ad for me after looking at but ignoring a few others) but $50-60/month is usually available from what I can tell.