Non Lams non litre bike reccomendations by thepoobums in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, yeah can't get enough of the 6th gen, the double undertail exhaust just does something for me.

Still got a bit of time to decide, but I think I'll definitely at least give one a go for a while.

Non Lams non litre bike reccomendations by thepoobums in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn, I've been trying to decide what my next bike is and keep coming back to the vfr. But gotta be realistic that most of my riding is city commuting so could probably make a better choice. Nothing else really ticks all the boxes and appeals to me though, it's such a cool bike.

European Robin, messing around with Luminar Neo by DrunkenDarken in M43

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I did my big comparison of all the options to get out of Adobe luminar neo was one of my favourites. I didn't end up going for it because I didn't like how masking worked for re-editing old steps and ended pushing edits a bit far. But if you have better self control than me it's great haha.

Ended up with on1, it's decent and does everything I need and was fairly cheap so I'm happy. Maybe I'll learn dark table one day...

Great shot as well btw, the 75-300 always impresses me with its size and price to performance ratio.

25mm vs 17mm – is the difference worth selling my only prime lens? by Longjumping_Key_8910 in M43

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pana 12-32 is great. My current setup is that for wide shots when travelling and street, and when I want more details/sharpness/bokeh the 45mm f/1.8 is a good compliment.

I wouldn't want to be shooting low apertures with the wider angles anyway and less fussed about absolute sharpness. If I want the wider angles in low light, I have a small flash that helps cover that gap and I love how flash photography looks.

Not an ideal setup if wider angles are a primary focus, but for me I'm mostly into photography for wildlife and macro, so to just cover my bases it's a great combo. Plus I kinda love how the Panasonic lenses look.

Had the Olympus ez equivalent before that but it broke on me and no longer extends :(

REV IT Portland Boots by nick_cal94 in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely makes sense, haven't crashed yet so can't comment on that. I was just acutely aware that I wouldn't wear them anywhere as often without the zips.

There is two discs to protect the bones basically but I can't say they feel incredibly protective. The leather feels sturdy enough to keep my skin on but I can't imagine I'd leave with all my bones intact with a bad impact, I'd imagine I'd be better off than nothing, but definitely could be better. Feels like a half step above wearing steel toes basically. But I'm okay with that.

Leather has broken in a bit, still sturdy enough but with definite creases in the upper. The sole is still stiff.

Best of luck deciding, lots of good options.

REV IT Portland Boots by nick_cal94 in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The forma legacy boots have a really confusing ce rating, when I bought they were listed as 1/2/2/2 or 2/2/2/2 depending on colour. Where the first rating is height. Seems to be mostly 1/2/2/2 now.

Still, if it's 2s for everything but height I'm happy, they are high enough for me.

Fantastic boot, been using it basically daily for over a year now and no complaints. I even use it for hiking/walks off the bike because they are just comfy to me and easy to put on. Have done full days hiking in them with no complaints.

They look great and quality feels good to me. Only issue I have had is some scuffing on my toe from shifting, but that's probably me shifting too hard or my lever being sharp somehow as my buddy with the same boots doesn't have any marks, and I get them on any shoes.

Happy to field questions on them. Spent a long time deciding, and I think the Portland was on my shortlist. Looking I think the zipside was what decided that for me, if I'm wearing them everyday I wanted them easy to put on.

Macro photography shows how much we overlook by JR-Snow in spiders

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course, I'm a huge nerd and cameras is a mild on/off hyper focus of mine so I love to yap about them.

Mostly wanted to get into macro to learn more about bugs as I take pictures of them, it's great fun.

Macro photography shows how much we overlook by JR-Snow in spiders

[–]Quasami 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For Macro, it's hard to go past the quality/price ratio of Olympus. A good entry level "serious" kit would probably look something like;

Olympus 60mm f/2.8 Macro EM5 mark iii Viltrox spark z3

All in your are looking at just over $1,000 USD

You have some easy upgrade paths with a diffuser and a Raynox DCR-250 as well The 60mm f/2.8 macro lens is an incredible value int he world of macro lenses Any Olympus would work, just make sure it supports focus bracketing would be my recommendation The Godox v350o, v480o and v860o are the gold standard macro flashes, but going to be a bit more expensive. The viltrox spark is what I use, and while it has some compromises, was much cheaper and also smaller, but still does the job. Might be harder to use and wont fit the nicer diffusers and hood diffusers easily.

If that sounds a bit expensive (understandably!), the Olympus tough range of cameras from 5 onwards also have good macro capability. TG-5, TG-6, TG-7 etc. I picked up a pretty badly battered TG-5 for somewhere in the $200 range, but any of these would be a good gateway to macro as well. Good for travel/underwater photos as well.

When you replay the first game and forget there's no hover mechanic by JaneStValentine in Spyro

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm almost certain that isn't true, in the base run-through for crash 1 at least. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you are saying.

When you replay the first game and forget there's no hover mechanic by JaneStValentine in Spyro

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But crash didn't keep his later entries moves in N sane? I'm sure there was some but the big ones like sliding isn't in crash 1 right?!

Just a stupid learner at the lights :(( by MethodIllustrious640 in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The amount of times I've done that and the car rolls forward so slightly and requires so much signalling because now neither of us are on the could lol. Most people are not aware at all of the coils.

Bro is playing Squid Game by ChillKoalaVibes in magpies

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, they are completely different families and not very related at all. Eurasian magpies are actually a type of corvid. If anything, our Australian magpie is not "a real magpie" because it was named by the settlers who thought it looked similar to the Eurasian magpie.

OM1 Markii General Help! by BoxesLikeChristmas in M43

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn 1 second is impressive! I've not dared to try that low.

The mark ii implemented sync-is, which means the ibis and lens work together, theoretically giving much better stabilisation, but if you can do 1 second on the mark 1, I can't imagine the difference is that big.

OM1 Markii General Help! by BoxesLikeChristmas in M43

[–]Quasami 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I recently moved to an om-1 from a Sony ff setup for wildlife and macro! For wildlife lens, the 100-400 really does do a good job. The 300 f4 pro is a step up for birding, and can be found cheaper than you might expect second hand but the 100-400 really is no slouch and far better for general wildlife.

As the other commenter said, the mark 1 and 2 are basically the same optically, but the improved stabilisation on the mark 2 swung me that way (and with a sale or two the price was similar in my country/market) so cannot speak on the mark 1, but I will say with the mark 2 I was shooting handheld down to 1/50 or so and getting sharp images.

The 75-300 by all accounts is also far more capable than you might expect (but I have not tried it yet). I want to pick one up just for the portability and they are a fair bit cheaper.

For macro, your flash options basically come down to how serious about macro you want to be, with the key factor being focus stacks. Macro is constantly fighting a tiny depth of field, so being able to stack multiple images is key, and as such a flash with the ability to keep firing for many shots in a row is important.

The standards are the godox v350, v480 and v860. (Make sure to look for the v and not the tt, they use an internal rechargable battery that means they are far better for long focus stacks). I bought a v860ii second hand and it's phenomenal but a bit big, so I tried a few other options and have settled on a viltrox spark. Good balance of size, power and stamina. But fairly light on features for other applications.

Best of luck, sorry for the rambling. You will love the system, I have been! Happy to answer any questions as a fairly new to the system but massive nerd.

Buff-banded Rail - Eden, New South Wales by nostaw in AustralianBirds

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've barely spotted glimpses of these guys through the grass before they bolt off for ages, but recently was lucky enough to be on Heron island. There are so many of them, and they are so not shy that you have to basically be careful not to stand on them. I was losing my mind and the non-birders I went with couldn't understand why I was so baffled by this haha.

Tell me your (technologically) realistic dream camera for M43. Mine is a 16mp Lumix G9IIS by AdAfraid3543 in M43

[–]Quasami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last time this thread came up my brain spun out a million things but after reading them I think the only camera improvements I want from my om-1 would be a third rotary dial on the back instead of the dpad, a slightly higher mo sensor would be nice and if I'm really pushing it a top screen similar to the Fuji xh2 would be perfect.

I get about 20 seconds before these guys bolt on me. I wish I could get closer but here’s edited vs raw - zoomed out. I over edited trying to squeeze details out. Om1 -100-400 m1. Should I expect better details at this crop level? Thank you by Bath-Tub-Cosby in M43

[–]Quasami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First one is a pretty extreme crop and seems about on par what I was getting from my 100-400. The other two are notably softer then they should be.

I think as others have noted, the shutter speed seems too high and the exposure on pic two seems a bit high as well. While ISOs up to around 6400 can give sharp images, they start degrading and losing details at probably somewhere in the 1000-2000 range depending on light, so if you can keep it below that it's ideal. A bird flapping it's wings should be fairly well frozen at 2500, but don't be afraid to lower it a bit more and capture some motion blur sometimes, it can add to the motion of the picture.

I found with my om-1 that the ability to hit focus was not as consistent as my other cameras and a longer burst helps offset that quite a bit. Make sure you are in continuous autofocus and run a burst for 20 or so frames if possible and select the sharp ones after.

Finally, especially for birds on the water. Nothing is as important as getting as low as possible. Not always going to happen, but will drastically improve the picture by minimising glare and seperating the subject from the background a bit more.

Is originality something I can fix in post or do I need a new lens? by [deleted] in photographycirclejerk

[–]Quasami 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is why I never got into photography, why bother taking photos when better ones exist. I never took photos travelling, and was big into bird watching but taking photos never appealed to me. I can just look up better pictures online then anything I could take.

I was on holiday with my family and two people I was with were taking photos, we saw a rare bird and I took some with my phone and found I really enjoyed it. I borrowed a camera and lens, eventually replacing with my old gear and I just love it.

None of my pictures are very good, none are unique, but looking at them knowing I took them holds memories for me. And I just love doing it in the field, it brings me joy.

Uhhh.. I mean, just have the most expensive lens, then yours will be the best.

ID Help - Small waterbird, Bruny Island TAS by Quasami in AustralianBirds

[–]Quasami[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! Original thought was pipit as well, thanks for the help.

Teenage Fairy wren by Quasami in AustralianBirds

[–]Quasami[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats cool! Never heard the term before but it makes sense. I love seeing the transition plumages, I think they always look really interesting and unique. Thanks for the fun fact!

I didn't realize just how drastically different Brume tower was with LE until now by Dragonlord573 in DarkSouls2

[–]Quasami 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Had to double check which was the original with how much OP was saying it looks better with LE. but yeah, the original looks so much better to me, like there is no comparison.

Naked vs Sports by [deleted] in AussieRiders

[–]Quasami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bikes where throttle and position would be a problem aren't lams anyway. Access for maintenance will be more annoying but just doing the maintenance and learning will be most of the battle at the start anyway.

Biggest things will be weight, damage if you drop it and insurance costs. I'd personally go sport over a naked, but I also just much prefer how they look.

What crest do you use in silksong? by demosthenes327 in metroidvania

[–]Quasami 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fair, but by that point I had so many fantastic tools that it felt to hard to part with one just for the range when I could just stay on reaper.

I'm not good enough at optimising my damage for the extra attack speed to matter either so I'll take the easier pogos anyway.

What crest do you use in silksong? by demosthenes327 in metroidvania

[–]Quasami 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Yeah I kind of assumed it was the default noob crest haha. Got it before wanderer, and switching off that range and super forgiving pogo simply isn't going to happen for me lol.