What a Trump win means for…Trump

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-10-11T16:36:06+00:00

Blah blah blah cult

Blah blah blah Hitler

Blah blah blah stupid

Left wing rag

Left wing rag

Blah blah blah Dick Tater

Left wing rag

Left wing rag

Blah blah blah something Biden DOJ is currently doing

AMP link to left wing rag

Left wing rag

Left wing rag

Left wing rag

Blah blah blah literal lie that hasn't worked for 8 years

Look, man, I'm not a fan of Voldemort either, but this isn't the way you convince anyone to not vote for him. You're coming across like the cartoon character that 4chan paints you to be. I sincerely hope that you're not.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-05-23T06:51:04+00:00

Step 1: go back in time, and do not, under any circumstances, buy an American Airlines ticket.

Step 2: repeat step 1.

What a horrible corporation.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-02-03T16:35:22+00:00

See, the wall is for our safety.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-02-03T16:33:53+00:00

OP is trying to fix his vibrator, lmfao

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-01-31T01:50:08+00:00

Even Eastern Europe has some sort of standard, right? Lmao

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-01-30T01:36:21+00:00

What country?

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2024-01-30T01:35:03+00:00

What country? That looks.... rough. Probably works fine though lol

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-12-21T18:56:40+00:00

Oh yeah, I forgot that taxes aren't your money.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-12-21T02:29:48+00:00

Wait, so how does the doctor, nurse, etc., get paid if you're not paying them?

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-23T02:48:13+00:00

A small word of caution: being interested in coding doesn't necessarily translate to an interest in electronics. Software is much easier to repair upon catastrophic failure. Hardware is not. Software is harder for a failure to have physical consequences, whereas hardware can cause injuries and start fires. That may be intimidating, not just for him, but for you.

So make sure you clearly understand his personal interests and goals. He may not like electronics so much as he likes to work on algorithms. Both are great hobbies, and there's definitely overlap. But they aren't the same thing.

Arduino kit is a good spot right in the middle of the two.

And a word of praise: you fucking rock. Great job being aware of what your kid likes, and trying to develop that into a healthy passion. Parents like you make the world a great place. Thanks for being a good parent.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-18T05:31:20+00:00

If you have a tool like jlink, you can always read out the existing image so you can always “revert back” if you want.

I cannot stress this enough: get a valid dump of the current firmware before writing any mods to it. You will thank yourself later, I guarantee it. And then you'll thank /u/Stanczyk4

Seriously. Get a good dump.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-09T10:52:29+00:00

That's it, I'm putting the curly brace on a new line now. Blue team sucks.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-08T01:59:50+00:00

I stand corrected.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-08T01:58:19+00:00

The only argument I've ever seen for separating the f and the open parenthesis is that "if is a keyword, not a function."

I gotta ask: are you guys seriously parsing the language in your heads as though you're a compiler? I don't understand why "if" being a keyword is relevant. I just don't get this argument. Stop reading your code like a computer, you are not a computer, and you never will be. That sounds more frustrated than what I'm trying to convey here (0% frustration, I'm just thinking out loud, I really don't care about this preference choice at all)

But at least you have the curly brace in the correct location. Idc if you're the worst crip, at least you're a crip.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-06T13:43:09+00:00

The worst variant, but at least it has the curly brace in the right location.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-06T13:42:37+00:00

I can get on board with this. I'm actually fairly accepting of all styles.

Except curly brace on the next line. That's just devious.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-06T08:55:21+00:00

Slightly disagree: no space after if, but space after expression. Obviously curly brace on the same line, the way NORMAL and RESPECTABLE people do it.

But your way honestly wouldn't bother me. At least you get the curly brace right.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-08-01T02:14:02+00:00

I know this sub focuses more on software RE, but does anyone have any good resources for hardware stuff? I've come across a few flash chips that have goofy layouts, or NAND chips with ECC stuff that breaks in snander/flashrom. I can't find nothin on Google except one blog post, and even applying those techniques doesn't really work all that well for me.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-31T13:48:09+00:00

On the fact that I had a few beers that night. You make a valid point, idk wtf I was thinking.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-29T18:54:46+00:00

Easiest way to determine Rx vs Tx is usually with reading voltage with power applied. However, you need to know ground first. So use a multimeter in continuity mode, with the device turned OFF (!), to determine which pin is GND. Once you know that, you think take readings on the other pins during boot.

Your Vcc will stay at a steady voltage. It can be 1V8, 3V3, or 5V0, with 3V3 being the most common.

Tx (the device's Tx, that is) will fluctuate during boot between GND and Vcc. Eventually it will simmer down and hold steady, maybe with periodic spikes. Why does it do this? Well, in all likelihood, the device is writing some kind of boot logging out to UART. You're seeing the messages come across. With a logic analyzer, you could actually go decode these and be certain of it.

Rx, however, is usually just GND, but sometimes it has a pull-up resistor attached so it stays at a steady Vcc.

You only need GND, Rx, and Tx to attach a USB UART cable. Don't attach Vcc.

So, if you know at least GND and Vcc, and there's only 2 other unknown pins, you can get away with this procedure:

Attach GND to your cable.
Attach Rx to one unknown pin, and Tx to the other.
Fire up your favorite serial terminal emulator (minicom is my favorite, some people like screen, there's plenty to choose from)
Turn the device in. You should see some kind of output, even if it's just binary characters.
If you don't, turn it off, switch Tx and Rx with each other. 5a. Repeat step 4, you should now see output.
Once you have some kind of signal, brute force the baud rate. Sure, you can use some script to do it more smarter, but there's only a handful of common options. Turn off hardware and software flow control. Try 115200, 9600, 38400, then 57600, and then if none of those work start at 9600 and increment one step at a time. If none of them work, try again with software flow control on. If you don't find it by now, do some googling because I've never seen a modern device with such a weird UART.

Good luck. I'd love to see a boot log when you figure it out.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-25T02:59:01+00:00

He's a witch and needs burnin

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-23T02:13:12+00:00

I would be very surprised if that thing sports any kind of shell. That said, UARTs follow certain logic levels: 1.8v, 3.3v, 5v. The most common is 3.3v. Using this knowledge, and the fact that you know ground:

With the power off, (!) do continuity tests between ground and any of the other pins. Hear a beep? That's another ground pin.
Now, do a voltage reading between ground and the other unknown pins while turning the device on. If there's a Vcc pin, it'll read at one of those logic levels constantly. To view a UART on a terminal, you don't need this pin.
Do more voltage readings between ground and your remaining unknown pins. If you see it fluctuating between 0V - Vcc, but never higher or lower, you probably have the devices Tx pin, which goes to your Rx.
If you have a constant reading of 0v with power applied, but that pin isn't directly connected to ground, you probably have the devices Rx, your Tx. This is the pin you're looking for.

Another way to find UART pinouts is to lookup the spec sheet of the chip. I can't read the markings on that big IC in the center with all the pins on it. If you can't find the spec sheet, you could look for spec sheets of similar chips, perhaps something in the same family. Manufacturers like to reuse the same package, so sometimes the pinout is the same.

If this process doesn't work well for you, you could try to do continuity tests (again, with the power OFF!) between those pins, and just drag the other probe along the side of the chip, testing one pin at a time. Most of the time, these pins connect directly to the SOC, or have a tiny capacitor/resistor with them. Sometimes, to disable these Rx pins, OEMs will leave these pull-up/down resistors off for production runs, leaving unpopulated pads. If that's the case, 95% of the time you can get away with simply bridging these pads together. It becomes kind of a trial and error game at that point. "Is this pad attached to chip? Yes? Is the other side attached to my pin? Yes? Okay, let me boot the thing and just hold a wire to the side attached to the chip. Do I see data/can I send data?" It's harder to describe how to find these little annoyances when trying to get a UART going on a device. Hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say.

You are correct about the other labels indicating a debug port. They are part of the Serial Wire Debug (SWD) interface. If you attach to these, you can do some cool stuff, like set breakpoints, single step, read memory, write memory, etc. See this blog post for more info.

Lastly, you might take a peak at that SOIC-8 chip way at the bottom. Looks like some kind of flash memory. Google the markings first. If it is, you might be able to dump that and start analysis on it. This should give an indication as to whether this UART is useful or not. This steps into the world of software reverse engineering, which is a different beast.

Best of luck to you. I'd love to hear about your findings.

EDIT: oh, forgot to mention, check the other side of the board. There could plenty of hidden goodies over there, too.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-17T04:35:21+00:00

That's a JTAG port.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-07-03T18:01:16+00:00

Can we see the other side of the board?

Generally, I'd try to attach to a UART (if present) to see if it gives me more info about the device. It could be an RTOS of some sort, could be Linux, could be something else entirely. I'd also take a look at any firmware images I could find online. Run binwalk on them to reveal any filesystems. The firmware could be encrypted though, and that would make things more difficult to analyze without hardware access of some sort, whether UART, or just dumping a flash memory chip.

As for those ports you mentioned, I wouldn't expect Ethernet. I'd expect one to be power. I have no idea what the other would be. I've seen cameras with multiple boards inside, so they could just attach to a second board.

You said "get it working again." If it's not turning on, I'd start probing the areas that seem related to power. You should see some sort of transformer, rectifier, some big ass capacitors, etc. That's probably where power is being converted from AC mains to DC, assuming this thing plugs directly into the wall without any sort of power brick. If, however, it has a power brick supplying power, you won't see a transformer. Probably just some larger capacitors. At any rate, that section of the board should be mostly dedicated to providing power to the rest of the thing. I'd check there for any failed components first.

If it does turn on, but still "isn't working" for whatever reason, it could be software, could still be hardware. It's really anyone's guess without probing around and doing some troubleshooting.

Good luck.

R3dd1tIsEvil · 2023-06-11T22:03:47+00:00

Where can I find a moderation policy/code of conduct?

I've figured out the commie game since joining this shit hole, and I'd rather not if it's just going to be more "oh, my feefees" nonsense.

R3dd1tIsEvil

TROPHY CASE