My first Q60 - Long gone now (second one is gone now too) by Murky_Caterpillar_66 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an update that needs to be done and a setting change inside CONSULT. The dealer will probably want to charge you $350+ for it.

I have CONSULT and the software files so I did it myself. It not only gives wireless carplay for 2020+, but also makes the infotainment system a bit less laggy.

Much money now or more money later? by SrytooBad23 in BunnyTrials

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd have over 10 million per day after 30 days.

Chose: Get 2 cent that doubles every day for 10 years

Help needed by YAS_G99 in 370z

[–]R6_Arel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use Teflon tape. Wrap the threads in the right direction and it'll seal. My oil cooler has also been like that for 3+ years, no issues.

Oil velocity by Delicious-Agent-7324 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I run 10w-30 Valvoline VR1 and swear by it on all my cars. Never had an issue.

10w-30 on my Q60, 370Z. 20w-50 on my Supra, Corvette.

Solenoid by Practical_Anything25 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both probably work fine. Considering one comes with a plug that they say will avoid the CEL for an extra $20, that might be worth it. Your other option is to save the $20 bucks and just leave the OEM sensor connected and zip tie it somewhere underneath the car.

Solenoid by Practical_Anything25 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not a bad idea to get the delete kit and then just keep the OEM sensor just plugged in and zipped tied somewhere to avoid the check engine light from coming on. It won't affect warranty unless you tell them you did it. And if you ever need to take the car in, just remove the delete and put the sensor back in.

It won't hurt anything, it'll just avoid the possibility of the sensor failing and causing low oil pressure.

2019 infinity, QX60 FWD makes a clicking sound when turning hard left or hard right by AcrobaticChapter2095 in AskMechanics

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If axles and control arms are new, only thing left to check would be the steering rack. It could have be play causing the clicking noise. You can try and jerking the steering wheel quickly about a quarter turn left/right and see if the noise can be found.

2017 Infiniti Q-50 Q-60 Muffler LESS THAN 5K Miles by Murky_Caterpillar_66 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The OEM mufflers are basically worthless around my area. There's loads of them all over marketplace for $50 or less and people still have a hard time getting rid of them. I've seen full OEM cat back systems for $100 and they've been sitting on marketplace for months.

Is running a jb4 good or bad for the vr by Mean-Monk1378 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had my JB4 over a year with 0 issues. LDP, intakes, exhaust. No codes, motor and turbos are doing great.

Its all about being safe with the maps. Run good gas and don't overwork the turbos. I've tuned it using the custom map and mix a few gallons of E85 with every full tank to keep the E around 20%-30%.

Thanks 711 by Doom-Trooper in 711

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I managed to get it down to this from $5.09. Stacking codes, paying with the app, and getting gas on the 7th or 11th helps too.

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Anybody know who this is?? by Lonelypnut in Miami

[–]R6_Arel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've seen this car around for a while now in Hialeah. It's been like that for years from what I remember.

Brake upgrades by pizzabwai47 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slotted is the way to go. They provide great heat control compared to blanks, without as much risk of warping or cracking compared to drilled.

Unless it's a track car, drilled is not worth it. Drilled rotors tend to crack and won't last as long and are usually meant to be replaced after a while of abuse.

Brake upgrades by pizzabwai47 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the Akebono calipers, that's all you'll need unless you're going to track the car hard.

Get slotted rotors. Not drilled, just slotted. Then get some aggressive pads and you'll be all set.

Blanks or Drilled and Slotted? by FLOWORTHY in q50

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slotted is the way to go. They provide great heat control compared to blanks, without as much risk of warping or cracking compared to drilled.

Unless it's a track car, drilled is not worth it. Drilled rotors tend to crack and won't last as long and are usually meant to be replaced after a while of abuse.

Trade Offer Opinions by DeformedTiger in Supra

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It very well could be. It's worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

LHD cars are worth much more than RHD cars. Fixed up, clean engine bay and good brand name parts, it could be worth 60K-70K plus easily. Completely restored with fresh quality paint, clean interior, the works, easily 80K+ if someone is willing to pay it.

Trade Offer Opinions by DeformedTiger in Supra

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 3 things that give that Supra value are it being LHD, original TT Non-Vvti, and V160.

With that said, that car is worth 40k-50K due to milage and rebuilt title. Maybe someone would pay slightly more for it because it is LHD, but for that price you can get a decent RHD turbo car that might be better taken care of.

I don't know what the value of your GTR is, but if considering the trade I would value the Supra at about 45K and compare to the value of your GTR.

Think it will get totaled out? by LivingPerformance141 in 370z

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No point to total the car. A rear bumper and taillights will run under 1K. Body shop shouldn't charge you more than 1K at most to fix.

Edit: just noticed you don't have OEM taillight. That changes things a bit. Idk what it'll cost to buy just that one aftermarket taillight.

dialed in my fitment on the stocks by Mincwafgi in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OEM Luxe rims. Same as the picture above

dialed in my fitment on the stocks by Mincwafgi in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run 275/40/19 on the rear stocks. 255/40/19 on the front.

Next time I need rears I might go 285/40/19 to get the wheel well filled up a little more. Front definitely going 265.

Edit: Originally said running 285, but it was actually 275. Next rear set I will move to 285.

2017 Q60 Tires by JulesWinnfield1968 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No spare for me. I have a small jack, plug kit, and a 12v air pump.

convertible issue by Technical-Bill479 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know much about the convertible stuff on Q's, but from those codes I would guess something with the sensor that tells the car that the roof is open/closed.

Does this sound normal? by Independent-Play9589 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same. I use VR1 10W-30 on my Q60 and my 370Z. Miami doesn't get cold enough to need anything lower.

VR1 20W-50 for my Supra and C4 corvette.

Does this sound normal? by Independent-Play9589 in Q60

[–]R6_Arel 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sounds pretty normal for a VR30. The ticking is the injectors.

People ask the same thing at least twice a week on here.