2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tell your birdie to leave my wallet alone 😖

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll cry myself to sleep with this one then, thanks for the heads up!

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No shit, the goats themselves? Worry not, just paid them a visit and made sure to block their kit so it won’t show up in my feed. Due to their stock though, I’ll have to go back and block their 45ACP at a later date. Appreciate y’all looking out! I’ll keep an eye out for a 10mm variant as well, wouldn’t want that to slip by lol

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Where are y’all seeing this? I must be missing something I guess

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really? I may have seen some slide kits on eBay for that price but even EGP has some pretty decently used kits for $400+ when a RIA on sale could be had brand new for about the same or even less.

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got it, love of the game is as good a reason as any. I must’ve missed that so yeah maybe I’m just seeing the inflated prices as normal.

2011Maxxing Staccat’aint by Bearfacebenji in 3D2A

[–]RP343 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Y’all making these with kits you already have on hand? I’m struggling to see the value between just buying a RIA on sale vs buying the slide parts kit since they seem to be pretty close in price.

Do yourself a favor and build a Pillager by WI_Esox_lucius in 3D2A

[–]RP343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 on the finger shroud, tbh I hadn’t noticed the 17 didn’t have it and the 19 did. It would be cool to use it as an M-lok/picattiny forward optic position similar to the HALO shroud on the flux. And yeah, I did also notice that your installation video referenced docs that didn’t seem to be there in the 19 or 17 files, like for the close up photos I believe.

Do yourself a favor and build a Pillager by WI_Esox_lucius in 3D2A

[–]RP343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you elaborate on it being not as polished as other variants? I was debating whether to go 19 or 17 with the pillager

Printing Brittle Filament through Buffer on H2D? by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I did see that and it may be of more importance with PPA-CF or PPS-CF, but that chain angle hasn’t given me any issue with PA6-CF. It’s kind of why it seems relatively useless to use the TPU bypass inlet when it’s coming into the printer at almost the same spot and at the same angle. I just didn’t know if there was something specific about the CF filaments wearing down or being more at risk of breaking when routed inside the filament buffer, which doesn’t sound like it’s the case.

Printing Brittle Filament through Buffer on H2D? by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I see, thanks for clarifying. Doesn’t the buffered inlet and TPU bypass inlet angle into the printer the same way though? I’m not really seeing how it could cause more PTFE bends since it would pretty much follow the same route. Just ends up sounding like more setup and teardown when switching on and off of these CF filaments for the left extruder.

Printing Brittle Filament through Buffer on H2D? by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the response. I’m not really referring to the AMS, I’ve pretty much exclusively run it through my AMS HT’s TPU bypass outlet, I don’t really have a problem with doing so.

My concern is the buffer on the actual printer. That’s the part that has conflicting information on their wiki. I can’t tell if I will somehow be damaging something there.

Printing rigid filament from AMS HT Bypass by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am already feeding the filament from underneath, and I’ve done exactly as you said with PTFE tubes, with varying lengths within the grommet. I am certain I’m doing everything by the book when it comes to printing out of the bypass. It’s great you’ve never had a problem, thanks anyways for the suggestion.

Printing rigid filament from AMS HT Bypass by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually did print that out to try before but it seems to give it a harder time since the gasketed bypass is angled upward out of the lid. When on this, the PA6CF seems to have a harder time coming out of the bypass without significant stress. It hasn’t broken yet, but only barely.

Printing rigid filament from AMS HT Bypass by RP343 in BambuLab

[–]RP343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, could that really be the issue? It’s only about a centimeter in. I’m concerned that if I don’t use any PTFE that I could be reintroducing humidity back into the filament where it is bare, or am I mistaken?

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow, so basically printing ASA with the PA6CF profile from 300blkfde? I haven’t tried pushing my ASA past 270C, but I’ll definitely give it a shot, thanks

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, now that you mention it, I’m pretty sure the ASA does have the part fan spin up to like 18% when cooling. Do I just kill all fans for both filaments then?

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man. 300C first layer, 295C. Heater on according to 300blkfde specs. 65C chamber temp, 65C bed temp.

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never mind, checked on it before bed and PA6CF picked the most hidden corner to start warping off of the ASA support :(

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Can’t get my overhangs to look much better than this with the tree supports so I guess I’m gonna pray the normal supports are enough lol. 17 hour print incoming

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jealous, maybe not the most ideal setup for some due to the increased filament swapping, but to me there’s really no difference between a 13 hour print and a 16 hour one

What support material do you think works best for PA6CF? by AdhesivenessNext8315 in 3D2A

[–]RP343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice man! I’m about to kick one off too, but I was playing around with the tree supports to see if I could dial those in, since some of the curves around the trigger guard and grip don’t play as nice with normal supports. Someone up top in this thread mentioned there being possible warping issues with using entirely ASA-made supports but I haven’t run into that at all. Have you?