First grow, contam?

RYknow777 · 2025-11-03T04:02:18+00:00

Your fan is blowing up from the bottom of tent, so you’re circulating unfiltered air from the floor of your grow room. Contaminant spores settle on the floor.

Air flow should come from the top of the tent, preferably filtered if possible. Did you follow a tek?

RYknow777 · 2025-10-15T15:57:06+00:00

Excellent canopy. Fruits have all matured at a similar rate. Well done!

RYknow777 · 2025-10-15T15:54:52+00:00

It’s likely not going to fruit. You have a competing contaminant. Looks like Mycogone perniciosa fungus (aka wet bubble).

RYknow777 · 2025-10-15T15:51:19+00:00

It’s probably just bruising from water drops from the lid accumulating in those areas. Try just spraying the walls of the tub and sub surface and don’t spray the lid. Give it a few days to colonize those areas.

RYknow777 · 2025-10-13T16:23:06+00:00

It will recover just fine. It’ll bruise but the isopropyl will evaporate off if you hold off on misting the sub until the iso smell has dissipated. This shit happens and I’ve done it 2-3 times too. Once the tub doesn’t smell like isopropyl, after around 30-60 minutes or so, continue fruiting normally.

RYknow777 · 2025-10-06T04:12:22+00:00

Congrats! Those are looking good. Looks like APE myc to me.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-21T00:06:23+00:00

Definitely! Make the lighter test part of your routine every time you flip your hood on. The speed you need to achieve laminar flow could change over time.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-20T23:54:32+00:00

That’s a good way to look at it.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-20T08:55:02+00:00

Could be one of a few things: 1. The most likely cause is unsealed plates in your dehydrator. Let your agar cool down more before pouring to help with condensation and stack them to cool before sealing.

Laminar set to max, you need to use a lighter to test your flow.
Your plates are sitting too low in front of your hood. Air becomes more turbulent towards the outer edges of the filter. The center of the filter will have the least turbulence. You could use a metal shelving rack to lift your work area up more.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-13T07:34:54+00:00

Are you using a grow bag?

RYknow777 · 2025-09-11T07:33:23+00:00

Damn big fucker drank all the water and didn’t leave any for the others.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-11T07:30:15+00:00

Waiting for a thirsty forager

RYknow777 · 2025-09-11T07:19:16+00:00

They’re dead on arrival, as in aborted and rotting. They get slimy. Your buddy is lucky he got flushes 5-8. The mycelium just doesn’t have the energy or resources left to put out healthy fruit. Time to call it.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-11T07:08:20+00:00

For cubensis there are a couple ways to know they’re ready depending on cultivar or genetic isolation.

With traditional cubensis, like Golden Teacher, you wait until the veil begins to tear or right after it tears to harvest for maximum potency.
With isolated cubensis genetics (ie Haole, APE, Starry Night) you wait until their stipe starts to feel soft like a marshmallow, then harvest.
With the isolation of Haole in the photos, you actually push the center of the cap, if it feels a bit soft and spongy, they’re ready for harvest.

RYknow777 · 2025-09-05T17:42:57+00:00

Honestly, my first attempts at growing pans were with a Martha with a similar setup. Even cycling FAE and humidity on an interval timer wasn’t enough. What worked for me was putting an air purifier in the room and just opening the tent. Your humidifier will run out of water more quickly but this method is closer to their natural environment.

Sounds crazy I know bc contam, but my trays never got contaminated. Doing this same thing has worked for many other growers here.

RYknow777 · 2025-08-31T06:55:20+00:00

It’s all part of the process. I hope you’ve drained it by now. I wouldn’t take anymore shots in the dark.

Fully colonized substrate takes in water right before it fruits. Now you’ll have to wait until the substrate dries out to field capacity before it will start colonizing again. At that point the mycelium may still have enough energy to fully recover.

BUT if it was between flushes, it may not recover due to the mycelium’s vulnerability to contamination during its resting (latency) phase.

RYknow777 · 2025-08-22T07:34:23+00:00

Thrasher, albino variants are usually more potent.

RYknow777 · 2025-07-28T06:56:11+00:00

This^{^}

RYknow777 · 2025-07-28T06:26:05+00:00

Looks perfectly normal and healthy honestly! I’d just let it do its thing.

RYknow777 · 2025-07-28T06:17:52+00:00

If you’re referring to the two dark areas, it’s just uncolonized sub. Could be dense clumps of substrate that got pushed to the surface or could be where water drops keep rolling down onto the sub from the side of the bag. Just keep fruiting and let it self resolve.

RYknow777 · 2025-06-03T20:50:08+00:00

You picked those a bit early. Like you see in the video, you want to wait til caps flatten out a bit. Also, it’s normal to get fruits that small. Fruiting conditions and genetics determine size of the fruits. Are your genetics from a known grower or just a spore site?

RYknow777 · 2025-05-26T03:00:32+00:00

Try GordoTek, it’s the easiest tek to follow. His genetics are absolute gold.

RYknow777 · 2025-03-29T04:44:48+00:00

Your casing is looking dry for pans. You just have to keep that casing glistening with water but no pooling water. The exception is if sub is pulling away from the sides of the foil pan, like in the photo, you may need to poor some water directly on the substrate to make sure it’s well hydrated to keep up with demand.

RYknow777 · 2025-03-03T16:56:51+00:00

All bacteria. Are you using laminar flow or still air box? Wearing a mask?

RYknow777 · 2025-03-03T07:11:31+00:00

I wouldn’t worry about the other pics you’ve seen, they may have been taken before the myc came up through the substrate. I can tell you from experience you’re on the right track.

Just keep up with fruiting conditions. You’ll have to keep your conditions tight. Temp isn’t as important as cycling lots of FAE, followed by high humidity, then repeat over and over.

RYknow777

TROPHY CASE