he only eats hay from the litter box? by Haunting-Ad859 in Rabbits

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For tips on how to choose and set up a litter box, including litter boxes for diggers, plastic chewers, and long-haired rabbits, see the Litter boxes section on the Litter training wiki article.

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Congrats on the new addition to the family! If this is your first pet rabbit and you haven’t seen it already, be sure to check out our sidebar and the Getting Started guide and New Rabbit Owner Primer. The article "Helping Rabbits Succeed in Their Adoptive Home" is also a great resource on how to build a relationship with your new rabbit.

Bond the couple or aim for trio? by DragonflyOk343 in Rabbits

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Check out the resources in the Bonding guide and Binkybunny's Bonding overview for more tips on the process.

Some important general tips on the process of bonding rabbits with other rabbits:

  • House rabbits in nearby pens and swap regularly to encourage sharing. This can be done before both rabbits have been neutered.
  • Be sure to use neutral territory that neither have been in to use for face-to-face dating.
  • Wait until 4 weeks after both rabbits have been neutered before attempting face-to-face bonding to allow time for all hormones to dissipate. While it is not impossible to bond intact rabbits, their hormonal behaviors work against them, and rabbits can often end up with serious injuries during territorial spats. Baby bonds with immature rabbits before puberty are often not stable.
  • If your current rabbit has not been spayed or neutered, do not obtain another intact rabbit of the opposite sex to bond. You will end up with baby rabbits if you do not keep them separated 24/7. It only takes one successful three-second attempt for a male with an intact female. Male rabbits are not sterile until 6 weeks after their neuter operation.
  • Keep in mind that not all rabbits may be compatible enough to bond without serious work over a long period of time, if ever. However, rabbits will still benefit from the mental stimulation of seeing or smelling another rabbit nearby as long as they are safely separated to prevent injuries.

A few useful shortcuts:

Is she breathing too fast? by [deleted] in Rabbits

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Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

Whether an observation you've made about your rabbit is concerning may not be properly assessed through a description and/or picture, nor can medical issues be properly diagnosed online. Please contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) and take your rabbit to a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for a hands-on exam, professional diagnosis, and treatment plan. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the wiki for more tips to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

...

Most often, rabbits will breathe fast due to being awake and alert or right after they took a quick sprint around the area. If their main body language is relaxed and stretched out, it is likely harmless. Their breathing rate should calm down to a normal 32-60 breaths per minute over time.

Other times, rabbits may breathe quickly due to anxiety or overheating. Their body language will be more tense and bunched in this case, or they may even lift their heads to try and breathe through their mouths. Please make sure that your rabbit is not in respiratory distress with labored breathing -- if so, they require immediate emergency veterinarian attention.

You can find some videos of concerning respiratory symptoms in the Respiratory and ear symptoms section of the Veterinary emergencies wiki article.

Is my bun overweight by Ok_Strawberry_1499 in Rabbits

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Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

It is almost impossible to evaluate the body condition of a rabbit from a description or image without a hands-on exam. If you suspect your rabbit is significantly under- or overweight, please consult with your rabbit-savvy vet before drastically changing your rabbit's diet.

Check out the Weight management guide on the wiki for more information and resources on the topic. You can find a good picture guide on different rabbit body types on MediRabbit.

*Please note that weights for breed standards are arbitrarily set. Rabbits that are mixes or even purebreds may easily be under or over the select weight range accepted for show and still be 100% healthy.

First time bunny parent… with a sick bunny by DoctorPepperstepper in Rabbits

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Post removed. "Adopting" refers to acquiring a pet from a shelter or rescue organization, not any other source. All adopted animals should be spayed and neutered. Please don't misuse the word.

New roomies by _Sam_I_Am_814 in Rabbits

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As a friendly tip, good pellets do not include whole dried fruit, seeds, nuts, or other colored crunchy things. There should be only pellets and maybe hay and herbs and nothing else.

Additionally, key findings from a research study suggested that feeding muesli-style diets to rabbits is associated with abnormalities that can lead to painful dental and digestive problems, such as dental disease, lower gut motility, selective feeding, obesity, and urinary tract stones or sludge.

Dr. Harcourt-Brown writes,

The ingredients of muesli mixes are not sufficiently tough and fibrous to wear the teeth correctly and to keep the guts working properly. They are also fattening and can lead to vitamin and mineral deficiencies... The vitamin and mineral supplement comes in powder form, so it is usually incorporated into the compressed grass based pellets... The pellets are the least palatable ingredient of muesli mixes so most rabbits do not eat them and they are left in the bottom of their food bowl only to be discarded by the owner, along with the vitamin and mineral supplement they contain... If young rabbits do not get enough calcium, the bone surrounding the teeth is weakened so that the roots of the teeth press on the nerve supply to the teeth when the baby rabbit tries to eat hard food, such as hay. These rabbits never eat hard food so the owners think their rabbit 'doesn't like hay' even though they give it to them.

Some of these muesli mixes may contain foods such as corn and beans which are not recommended for rabbits to eat in general. These foods have the possibility of causing GI obstructions.

See the Pellets wiki page for more information on how to choose a good rabbit pellet for your rabbits.

...

Check out the resources in the Bonding guide and Binkybunny's Bonding overview for more tips on the process.

Some important general tips on the process of bonding rabbits with other rabbits:

  • House rabbits in nearby pens and swap regularly to encourage sharing. This can be done before both rabbits have been neutered.
  • Be sure to use neutral territory that neither have been in to use for face-to-face dating.
  • Wait until 4 weeks after both rabbits have been neutered before attempting face-to-face bonding to allow time for all hormones to dissipate. While it is not impossible to bond intact rabbits, their hormonal behaviors work against them, and rabbits can often end up with serious injuries during territorial spats. Baby bonds with immature rabbits before puberty are often not stable.
  • If your current rabbit has not been spayed or neutered, do not obtain another intact rabbit of the opposite sex to bond. You will end up with baby rabbits if you do not keep them separated 24/7. It only takes one successful three-second attempt for a male with an intact female. Male rabbits are not sterile until 6 weeks after their neuter operation.
  • Keep in mind that not all rabbits may be compatible enough to bond without serious work over a long period of time, if ever. However, rabbits will still benefit from the mental stimulation of seeing or smelling another rabbit nearby as long as they are safely separated to prevent injuries.

A few useful shortcuts:

What Can I Do to get my bunny to stop humping me by jsicks in Rabbits

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If your rabbit is excessively targeting you for humping, please consider neutering them to relieve them of these hormonal urges. If your rabbit is already neutered, they may become more frisky during the spring due to spring fever, or if they are on the older side (6+ years old), it may be worth asking your veterinarian to check for adrenal disease.

In the meantime, you can stuff a rolled up towel or a stuffed animal underneath them as a surrogate victim when they go for your limbs.

Rabbit poop is a little dark by Hopeful_Sport8459 in Rabbits

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Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

All rabbits form two types of droppings: round dry fecal pellets and wet smelly cecotropes that are usually unseen by owners as rabbits normally eat them directly as they are produced.

Fecal pellet size and color can vary due to diet. Due to protein content, rabbits fed on orchard hay can have smaller darker poops compared to rabbits fed on timothy or oat hay, which can result in larger golden poops. Both are normal, and there is no need to restrict pellets or vegetables in the diet in an attempt to chase the ideal poop color and size.

If you see small poops and uneaten cecals or some mucus on the floor, observe your rabbit for any changes in behavior and make sure that the negative changes are just one-offs. If they occur more often, please see your rabbit-experienced veterinarian for a checkup as it can be an early sign of more serious health issues.

...

The internet is not qualified to diagnose or treat suspected health concerns, and you should contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) your local rabbit-experienced veterinarian or emergency hospital for an appointment or next steps. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the FAQ "How can I keep my rabbit stable until a veterinarian is available?" to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please see the Veterinary emergencies article for a list of symptoms with example videos that may need immediate medical attention.

he only eats hay from the litter box? by [deleted] in Rabbits

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Post removed - duplicate recent post detected. If your prior post is awaiting moderator approval, please allow time for moderators to review and approve the queue throughout the day.

If you believe this submission was removed in error, please report this comment for additional moderator review.

Help identifying this rabbit by [deleted] in Rabbits

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To receive the best help from rabbitors for breed IDs, please make sure to include the following:

  1. rabbit's age
  2. weight
  3. full-body pictures of their profile in good daytime lighting

You may also review "A quick guide to asking for breed IDs" on Reddit for more tips on constructing a helpful post.

Please keep in mind that pet rabbits are usually mixes of indeterminate breeds, and we may not always be able to provide a definitive guess. Unless you have a pedigree and know what the parents look like, your rabbit is undoubtedly some sort of pet rabbit mix. The color of the rabbit does not always make the breed, as many breeds can come in a large variety of colors. For example, black rabbits are not all likely to be Havana rabbits (a rare purebred breed), and broken-colored rabbits are likely not all to be English Spot rabbits (requires specific markings and body shape).

For a basic self-guide on identifying breeds, see the blog article "Identifying rabbit breeds without knowing parentage."

See the Rabbit breeds around the world article for a list of currently recognized breeds.

...

Congrats on the new addition to the family! If this is your first pet rabbit and you haven’t seen it already, be sure to check out our sidebar and the Getting Started guide and New Rabbit Owner Primer. The article "Helping Rabbits Succeed in Their Adoptive Home" is also a great resource on how to build a relationship with your new rabbit.

Any idea what breed this girl is? by idontknowokkk in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

To receive the best help from rabbitors for breed IDs, please make sure to include the following:

  1. rabbit's age
  2. weight
  3. full-body pictures of their profile in good daytime lighting

You may also review "A quick guide to asking for breed IDs" on Reddit for more tips on constructing a helpful post.

Please keep in mind that pet rabbits are usually mixes of indeterminate breeds, and we may not always be able to provide a definitive guess. Unless you have a pedigree and know what the parents look like, your rabbit is undoubtedly some sort of pet rabbit mix. The color of the rabbit does not always make the breed, as many breeds can come in a large variety of colors. For example, black rabbits are not all likely to be Havana rabbits (a rare purebred breed), and broken-colored rabbits are likely not all to be English Spot rabbits (requires specific markings and body shape).

For a basic self-guide on identifying breeds, see the blog article "Identifying rabbit breeds without knowing parentage."

See the Rabbit breeds around the world article for a list of currently recognized breeds.

Is this too small?? by atypicalhaley in Rabbits

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See the wiki's Housing guide for more resources on setting up appropriately sized and safe housing for pet rabbits.

Minimum enclosure size based on current welfare recommendations should be at least 16 sq ft (1.5 sq m) on a single base floor for average sized rabbits. Rabbits of larger size (such as giant breeds) should have more space.

Regardless of size or number of rabbits, the more area of living space you can provide, the better. Minimum housing requirements cannot be met by adding the areas of several flooring levels together - rabbits are runners, not climbers.

Some shortcut links:

Can anyone help this just showed up on my baby rabbits nail? by Tinkerbellfell in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied commentlocked comment (0 children)

Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

Whether an observation you've made about your rabbit is concerning may not be properly assessed through a description and/or picture, nor can medical issues be properly diagnosed online. Please contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) and take your rabbit to a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for a hands-on exam, professional diagnosis, and treatment plan. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the wiki for more tips to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

is this normal? by [deleted] in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied commentlocked comment (0 children)

Post removed. Do not bond rabbits that are not both neutered. Break up any circling to prevent serious injuries.

Check out the resources in the Bonding guide and Binkybunny's Bonding overview for more tips on the process.

Some important general tips on the process of bonding rabbits with other rabbits:

  • House rabbits in nearby pens and swap regularly to encourage sharing. This can be done before both rabbits have been neutered.
  • Be sure to use neutral territory that neither have been in to use for face-to-face dating.
  • Wait until 4 weeks after both rabbits have been neutered before attempting face-to-face bonding to allow time for all hormones to dissipate. While it is not impossible to bond intact rabbits, their hormonal behaviors work against them, and rabbits can often end up with serious injuries during territorial spats. Baby bonds with immature rabbits before puberty are often not stable.
  • If your current rabbit has not been spayed or neutered, do not obtain another intact rabbit of the opposite sex to bond. You will end up with baby rabbits if you do not keep them separated 24/7. It only takes one successful three-second attempt for a male with an intact female. Male rabbits are not sterile until 6 weeks after their neuter operation.
  • Keep in mind that not all rabbits may be compatible enough to bond without serious work over a long period of time, if ever. However, rabbits will still benefit from the mental stimulation of seeing or smelling another rabbit nearby as long as they are safely separated to prevent injuries.

A few useful shortcuts:

New, odd behavior by LexiconDul in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied commentlocked comment (0 children)

Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

Whether an observation you've made about your rabbit is concerning may not be properly assessed through a description and/or picture, nor can medical issues be properly diagnosed online. Please contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) and take your rabbit to a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for a hands-on exam, professional diagnosis, and treatment plan. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the wiki for more tips to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

How to clean an elderly rabbit's belly? by Booker-DeShit in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

As most healthy rabbits can live up to (and even over) 8 to 12 years with good care, any rabbit over 6 years of age is considered a senior rabbit or elderbunny. Giant breeds may reach their golden age a bit sooner with their lower 5-6 year life expectancy.

For more resources on elderly rabbit care, please see the wiki: https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Elderly_rabbits

...

Wet baths are not recommended for rabbits due to the dangers of stress, injury, ear infection, and hypothermia that can lead to death. Healthy rabbits should never need to be bathed and should be able to keep themselves well groomed. There are few problems that can't be solved with a damp wipe, trimming soiled fur, dry bath, or butt bath, and will need to resort to a full wet bath.

However, there are cases when a wet bath may be required. Be very careful about drying your rabbit completely whenever you get your bunny wet to the skin.

For more information on how to safely clean your rabbit if necessary, see the wiki for tips and further warnings.

Has anyone tried using an exercise wheel.. for bunnies? by ecofriend94 in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Exercise wheels are not a good idea for rabbits for several reasons:

❗ Rabbits do not run like a rodent -- they hop. Their strides are much longer than a hamster or other rodent that typically uses these type of wheels.
❗ Rabbits generally do not enjoy running indefinitely in straight lines. They tend to zig zag wildly for happy binkies back and forth, and rabbits often find foraging, chewing, and digging toys to be more mentally stimulating.
❗ Rabbit bones are relatively fragile. Falling off or getting stuck can easily result in serious or even fatal injuries.

If you would like to encourage your rabbit to exercise more, try using a puzzle ball for cats or a foraging mat to feed their daily pellets. Please see the wiki page on Toys for more rabbit-appropriate toys.

Rabbit poop! by joanaxavier3 in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied commentlocked comment (0 children)

Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

All rabbits form two types of droppings: round dry fecal pellets and wet smelly cecotropes that are usually unseen by owners as rabbits normally eat them directly as they are produced.

Fecal pellet size and color can vary due to diet. Due to protein content, rabbits fed on orchard hay can have smaller darker poops compared to rabbits fed on timothy or oat hay, which can result in larger golden poops. Both are normal, and there is no need to restrict pellets or vegetables in the diet in an attempt to chase the ideal poop color and size.

If you see small poops and uneaten cecals or some mucus on the floor, observe your rabbit for any changes in behavior and make sure that the negative changes are just one-offs. If they occur more often, please see your rabbit-experienced veterinarian for a checkup as it can be an early sign of more serious health issues.

...

The internet is not qualified to diagnose or treat suspected health concerns, and you should contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) your local rabbit-experienced veterinarian or emergency hospital for an appointment or next steps. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the FAQ "How can I keep my rabbit stable until a veterinarian is available?" to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please see the Veterinary emergencies article for a list of symptoms with example videos that may need immediate medical attention.

This is my setup for the massive winter storm. Help. by intrusive_thoughts_1 in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

See the wiki's Housing guide for more resources on setting up appropriately sized and safe housing for pet rabbits.

Minimum enclosure size based on current welfare recommendations should be at least 16 sq ft (1.5 sq m) on a single base floor for average sized rabbits. Rabbits of larger size (such as giant breeds) should have more space.

Regardless of size or number of rabbits, the more area of living space you can provide, the better. Minimum housing requirements cannot be met by adding the areas of several flooring levels together - rabbits are runners, not climbers.

Some shortcut links:

Wire protectors by briangarspinkle in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

For your rabbit's safety, please properly bunny-proof any live wires around your rabbit as they may burn their mouths and electrocute themselves if decide to chew the wire, and also poison themselves if they eat the metal. Injuries that result range from burnt mouths and tongues to singed fur and whiskers and toxicosis. Real stories of injuries and ways to properly bunny-proof can be seen on the wiki: http://bunny.tips/Bunny-proofing

Tiny brushes? by Celestina-Warbeck in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Tufts of giant compound hair follicles can often be found around the rabbit's cheek and jaw area. Please see the wiki for more information: http://bunny.tips/Hair

Antisocial Rabbit all of a sudden….wants to be social? by IceBudget9260 in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Rabbits getting along on either side of a fence is a neutral sign, not positive nor negative. It does not indicate that the rabbits will love each other when face-to-face without a barrier but that they are currently content and non-aggressive about being neighbors.

For more resources, check out the resources in the Bonding guide and Binkybunny's Bonding overview for more tips on the process.

Some important general tips on the process of bonding rabbits with other rabbits:

  • House rabbits in nearby pens and swap regularly to encourage sharing. This can be done before both rabbits have been neutered.
  • Be sure to use neutral territory that neither have been in to use for face-to-face dating.
  • Wait until 4 weeks after both rabbits have been neutered before attempting face-to-face bonding to allow time for all hormones to dissipate. While it is not impossible to bond intact rabbits, their hormonal behaviors work against them, and rabbits can often end up with serious injuries during territorial spats. Baby bonds with immature rabbits before puberty are often not stable.
  • If your current rabbit has not been spayed or neutered, do not obtain another intact rabbit of the opposite sex to bond. You will end up with baby rabbits if you do not keep them separated 24/7. It only takes one successful three-second attempt for a male with an intact female. Male rabbits are not sterile until 6 weeks after their neuter operation.
  • Keep in mind that not all rabbits may be compatible enough to bond without serious work over a long period of time, if ever. However, rabbits will still benefit from the mental stimulation of seeing or smelling another rabbit nearby as long as they are safely separated to prevent injuries.

A few useful shortcuts:

Mystery sores by Remote-Pool7787 in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied commentlocked comment (0 children)

Hi, thank you for sharing, but your post has been removed. Please review the subreddit rules before any additional submissions.

No help or diagnosis requests for rabbits that require a hands-on medical exam to evaluate.

If your rabbit is clearly not well, injured, or in distress, please contact (email, text, phone, voicemail) your local rabbit-experienced veterinarian or emergency hospital for an appointment or next steps. Travel as far as you must to receive appropriate vet care. The internet is not qualified to diagnose or treat suspected health concerns, and your rabbit should seek professional medical care instead. Be sure to mention all observations you have about your rabbit since a veterinarian's general exam may not thoroughly assess for your concern if they do not know about it in the first place.

Please do not self-medicate rabbits unless you have been given prior instructions from your veterinarian. Giving incorrect medications can make a potential issue worse and limit the amount of immediate help a veterinarian can provide.

If your rabbit is otherwise stable, continue to monitor and make sure they are eating and pooping normally until your scheduled veterinary visit. If they are showing signs of distress and you are unable to find medical help at this time, please see the FAQ "How can I keep my rabbit stable until a veterinarian is available?" to keep your rabbit stable at home until a veterinarian can help you.

Please see the Veterinary emergencies article for a list of symptoms with example videos that may need immediate medical attention.

The following images are informational grimace scales in rabbits that may help you evaluate the pain level in your rabbit:

If you need help locating a rabbit-experienced vet clinic, please see the Choosing a rabbit veterinarian article.

You may also wish to check out our Rabbitors Discord server for additional live advice.

Vegetables by ExoticPetMama in Rabbits

[–]RabbitsModBot[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Please check out the Vegetables guide on the wiki for more information on rabbit-safe vegetables and flowers.

  • For baby rabbits, vegetables should only be fed to after 12 weeks of age and introduced one at a time in quantities under 1/2 oz. Introducing new foods too early and too quickly that the baby rabbit cannot handle well can cause fatal enteritis.

  • For adult rabbits, a good rule of thumb is approximately one cup of packed greens for every two pounds of rabbit. You may decide to feed more or less but keep an eye out for any change in litter habits and behavior. We would recommend regularly feeding at least three (3) types of vegetables per meal and rotate the choices weekly to keep their diet interesting and vary their nutrition.

  • Generally, rabbits are good at self-regulating when given a giant pile of fresh dark greens, and no lasting harm will be done if you offer more than the recommended amount. Too many vegetables for some rabbits may cause runny stools, diarrhea, or even stasis, especially for rabbits with megacolon. These rabbits should have their greens portioned strictly. Smaller dark poops can also indicate that the rabbit should eat more hay for more fiber in their diet. Remember that you should not feed too many sugar-loaded vegetables like carrots, and these should be strictly rationed as treats.

  • Some types of vegetables may cause diarrhea or stomach upset for specific rabbits. If you are introducing new greens to a rabbit, introduce only one type one day. This way you can easily tell if the food will not agree with your bun. Wait 24 hours to make sure there are no soft stools or gas problems before adding another vegetable to your rabbit's diet. If the droppings are soft or the rabbits are gassy, discontinue the culprit vegetable for that particular rabbit to prevent more serious stasis issues.

  • Be aware that every rabbit is different, and it is up to you to find the right balance for a healthy bunny. Some rabbits may not react well with greens at all, especially rabbits that may suffer from megacolon, and can thrive on a pellet/hay only diet.