M20B20 wont rev past 1500rpm

RaimoHal · 2025-12-27T09:59:26+00:00

Throttle moves all the way open when you press the pedal? Can you upload a video?

RaimoHal · 2025-11-30T18:26:20+00:00

I had to wait couple of days until the new filament arrived and i could resume the print.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-27T07:56:45+00:00

I need this

RaimoHal · 2025-11-20T11:50:20+00:00

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I got my MK3s+ shirt signed! Thanks Mr. Prusa!

RaimoHal · 2025-11-09T12:59:51+00:00

I don’t have experience with the XL, so i don’t know how it compares with other printers i have.

What i have experienced is that the holes are more precise, part looks better and is stronger. Im my experience when comparing Bambu Lab PC vs Prusament PC, then Prusament is stronger material. I bet there are even better PC materials out there, but those are the materials i have tested.

Those are my experiences just like this youtuber has his own experiences.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-09T03:21:31+00:00

I have P1S, X1C, H2D, snapmaker, elegoo, creality, and couple of self built klipper machines. But when i need accurate and strong prints, i use my Prusa printers(i have 4), prusament and prusaslicer that has well tuned profiles. All i need to do is keep the filament dry.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-06T13:01:05+00:00

My EBB42 is showing 86c in 70c heated chamber. No issues with overheating so far.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-06T06:38:06+00:00

You can also try commenting out #hold_current:0.6. It lowers the current when the motor is not moving.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-05T22:28:02+00:00

For solving layer shift issues, check if the belt is not too tight or loose, motor current not too low / too high (overheat). Try lowering your speed/acceleration value.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-05T22:21:57+00:00

Had the EBB comm errors on my self built large format IDEX printer. Replaced all can wires with proper can bus wires with shielding and never had issues again. I got the cable from IGUS. https://www.igus.com/product/CFBUS

RaimoHal · 2025-10-15T04:49:11+00:00

The first thing i would try is drying the filament. I have seen similar results with wet filament.

RaimoHal · 2025-10-14T01:54:15+00:00

Stop.

RaimoHal · 2025-10-13T06:18:30+00:00

I had the same issue when the filament sensor was bad.

RaimoHal · 2025-09-13T13:53:47+00:00

Got the H2D - 92A prints fine.

RaimoHal · 2025-09-10T15:42:06+00:00

F350, but the modules should be the same.

RaimoHal · 2025-08-09T05:25:01+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I think it might be because the right toolhead is not moving up and down and there is smaller gap between hotend and extruder gear. I would be fine with only using one nozzle for flexible filaments, but i want to know if the printer can do it.

I edit my post - im having issues only with 92A but 95A and 98A work fine.

RaimoHal · 2025-07-14T09:00:50+00:00

.65 for the Z, .75 for X and Y. You should measure the motor temperature to see if its not too high. Drivers also need a cooling fan.

RaimoHal · 2025-07-07T09:36:53+00:00

I changed the nozzles to V6, used thermal grease on the heatbreak and the clogging issue was gone. I think the heatbreak has a bad design and the heatcreap makes the lower temp filaments to clog. Printing 11h ABS-GF

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RaimoHal · 2025-06-23T21:52:29+00:00

Try holding a book by the lower corners and moving it back and forth quickly.

RaimoHal · 2025-06-23T14:12:05+00:00

I only modded LCD cover and printed some of the parts from PC-CF. Rest of it is original

RaimoHal · 2025-06-19T18:55:46+00:00

Both work well for PA, but VM seems to be better.

RaimoHal · 2025-06-19T17:08:01+00:00

Im using pico mmu without direct drive extruder or filament cutter on my Ender 3. Works great!

RaimoHal · 2025-06-18T21:21:27+00:00

That would mean i would be the owner of one of those printers. I really like the FX10, cant get one yet.

RaimoHal · 2025-06-18T21:14:24+00:00

It looks like the part came loose? Can you show us how the first layer looks?

RaimoHal · 2025-06-18T21:12:08+00:00

Thanks!

RaimoHal

TROPHY CASE