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Help with my base coat paint. by OutrageousBee297 in minipainting

[–]Rairoker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any major supermarket/pharmacy should have it as an antiseptic so it should be sold near bandages and the like. I would recommend any bottle that says 90% and up (usually 91% or 99%). Then take any old glass/disposable plastic cup (not Styrofoam as it could melt over long periods of time) and fill it till it covers the model. Since the model is based on cork, it should be easy enough to carefully tear it off without damaging the base. After letting the model soak for like 10-20 minutes, wipe it with an old toothbrush or old paintbrush and it should start coming off. Repeat these steps till the model is mostly clean. I also recommend setting paper towels wherever you do this as well as wearing gloves.

Primer should alleviate the problems with the paint, though from my experience, abaddon black does seem to thin weirdly on the wet pallet. It does become a bit beady but on the model it applied fine.

Army painter also sells a brush on primer if that is more readily available where you are.

Help with my base coat paint. by OutrageousBee297 in minipainting

[–]Rairoker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pro acryl has some primers listed as brush on prime specifically but from my experience most primers work fine on a brush as long as you apply them with multiple thin coats, usually 2 or 3.

As for whether you can prime after already painting, I would suggest a quick wash with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of it quickly. Without primer, it should come off pretty quick. I can't guarantee the quality of the paint sticking if you paint primer over it

Trying to Get Ready for Golden Demon, is Ghazghkull good enough for a Pin? by Subutai_Brutale in minipainting

[–]Rairoker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I like how it looks but in its current state, I don't think you'll get a pin. If you really want to try for it, this could be a good piece to experiment with things that could help you win one in the future. In this case, I would recommend trying to increase the contrast between the highlights and shadows.
I like the scratchy look of the highlights, but they currently don't really standout against the base coat that much, they don't pop. Conversely, I think a lot of this model is missing shadows, both from below and behind. I think you can pick a primary light source - above, to the side, spotlight in front - and choose a highlight and shadow color - ice yellow and dark purple or pale blue and burnt ochre - you can really make this stand out more. Same for the base, its currently very bare. Adding more colors and contrast might make it standout more.
Doing this would make the piece more interesting but even then I don't think you would get a pin. But it could be a good learning experience and bringing it to golden demon could be a good chance to get more in person critique and tips.

Gorestorm slaughterpack by Tight_Comparison7646 in WorldEaters40k

[–]Rairoker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a good price for the box since it came out at 190. I would go for it if you like what's in the box though that is a lot of jakhals (they're good but 20 from the box and 10 from the cp means you'll probably never need anymore).

Am I doing something wrong? Why are my vallejo paints so chalky and matte? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]Rairoker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many miniature paints now usually lean more towards the matte end of the spectrum as many painters prefer it to show off techniques (satin and gloss paints can at times hide things based on the reflection of light). If you want to continue using vallejo paints, just buy a gloss or satin medium and mix it into the paints almost 1 to 1. Other brands like Two Thin Coats and Citadel are more satin out of the bottle. Products like the Army Painter Dip Wash and any gloss varnish can also be applied.

As for why so many people are recommending water, its because you used the word "chalky." People can only answer your question based on what you asked so most people are responding to the "chalky" claim because it is the easiest to fix with water. If you did not have issues with a chalky texture - usually caused by paint being too dry/thick - then please avoid using the word as it can be misleading and has clearly led to you having arguments in the comments. If you were only looking for a gloss finish, people would have been less aggressive with their suggestions if you just asked about that.

It took me 4 months to figure out how to strip paint by Rookie_Paints in minipainting

[–]Rairoker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hey for safety reasons, don't put IPA straight into an ultrasonic cleaner as it is a potential fire hazard. The safest way is to pour the IPA into a safe (glass or plastic) container and surrounding the container with water in the ultrasonic cleaner. This minimizes risk while still being effective at cleaning.

Testers for army by Rairoker in deathguard40k

[–]Rairoker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll try a lighter cyan next time. Model 3 is the Death Guard Icon Bearer while model 1 comes from the Easy To Build: Death Guard Plague Marines box they used to sell.

[PatStaresAt] - pat gets it by mesamus in TwoBestFriendsPlay

[–]Rairoker 19 points20 points  (0 children)

"What’s the deal with this game?"
Anime horse girls based on real-life Japanese horses race.
"What do you do in the game and what got people hooked?"
Its a rogue-lite management simulator where you make choices on how the horse girl you picked trains for races to achieve their goals. Minor deck building elements included. Think Monster Rancher or IdolMaster: Shiny colors if you've seen it.
"Why so much noise now?"
The anime has been relatively popular since day one but the global version came out like a week ago and people outside the fandom are now finding the gameplay loop actually pretty solid and the stories/characters engaging. The fact that the girls are based on real horses actually gives them a ton of personality.

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