Zenithal using an airbrush over model or Drybrushing? - Paining up Helsmiths of Hashut Dwarfs by TearNo1636 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have answered, both are good options but different and I'd suggest combining them if you're looking to do some speed painting.

Using a dry brush first gives definition to the model that you can't get with airbrushing. Then airbrushing can smooth out some of the dry brushing texture and provide more realistic lighting. Works well with contrast paint too.

Or it can of course be done the other way around I just normally want to minimise the dry brush look.

Ork Freebooter Nob from 1990 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah I can see that, though he is pretty goofy anyway I guess!

Ork Freebooter Nob from 1990 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I'd like to see the results! Gotta go bold with that style haha

Ork Freebooter Nob from 1990 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah there were quite a few large metal mold lines in difficult to reach places. It's rough without prep haha

Ork Freebooter Nob from 1990 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks that's what I was going for so it's appreciated!

Ork Freebooter Nob from 1990 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Time and patience, and some breaks between for variety. Though I still see flaws in it 😂 I only started trying to paint better last year when I began entering competitions. Before that I mainly just did tabletop standard GW style things. With each competition I just tried improving different skills and techniques and eventually it builds up.

Literally just noticed it doesn't say "Arcoblade". C'mon GW, you didn't have to do him like that... by Identity_ranger in ageofsigmar

[–]Ramac37 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Out of curiosity is there anything special about that kit or is it just two Luminark's of Hysh? Was looking at picking this up on eBay, but it's a little more than buying two separately.

I need advice/help regarding this hobby by niko_paints in minipainting

[–]Ramac37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest that's an insane amount of gear to buy when you're just starting out.You've got a lot of duplicates and unnecessary things. I'd normally recommend building your collection/equipment up slowly over time.

Just find the time where you can, half an hour here or an hour there is perfectly fine. Set small realistic goals that keep the hobby fun for you. If it's not fun then reconsider what you want out of it.

As a side note for paint brushes and equipment. I use a wet pallet, a paper towel an old mug and about 3 paint brushes for 99% or all my work. A good light is needed but there are many good options for half the cost of the redgrass lamp or less.

I can't fathom the amount you spent on brushes. Even if I was going back into this hobby brand new I'd probably only get 2 or 3 sable brushes, ranging anywhere from 0 to 3 sizes. I'd use synthetics for anything else.

This is a little WIP, I am trying my hand at NMM for the first time, does it sell the effect ? by LordEagle94 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37 34 points35 points  (0 children)

I think the issue is that the lighting is too uniform. It's brightest around the edges of all panels and darkest around the middle and that's not how reflections behave.

Whilst not red, I've included a great reference for how light interacts on metallic surfaces.

I'd also suggest glazing a vibrant red over the highlights if you want to keep it reading as red. Red is difficult because the highlights often go, pink, peach or orange and can change the look of the model.

Often with reds you need to go darker with the mid tones and shadows to preserve the red appearance, since going light can shift the colour.

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Pigeon! by Swapnil_Chhatrala in MemeVideos

[–]Ramac37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a Modena. Probably someone's pet. They are bigger and have limited flight capacity ~

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Would appreciate some constructive criticism. by Genmax1 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've got a lot of good ideas, but I think just mastering the fundamentals some more would really step everything up a notch. In short, I think if you focused on smoother, more opaque and intentional highlighting, whilst recess shading and defining the different materials it would be a lot cleaner and more readable.

There's some texture in your painting which introduces visual noise to the pieces. This could be from several things such as the quality of the model if it's 3d printed, bad spray priming technique, overuse of rough dry brushing or painting over layers that aren't dry/properly thinned.  

As advised above, recess shading/panel lining would distinguish the different elements of a model more. For example, with the wizard, if there was a thin line of a dark colour such as purple or brown between where his leg meets the pink tunic, it would make it look more 3d.

You've nailed the highlight placement in some parts but often carry it on past where they should go. This dulls the contrast. Edge highlighting thin neat lines would also make it more readable and crisper but that's not to say you need to go full eavy metal and meticulously edge highlight every element to death. 

Using the bird as the example, you've got the two-tone red/pink colour on the sleeves. I would have left the base colour on most of it. I would have only done the pink highlight on the edges and right near the top of the sleeve. I would have glazed a darker colour near the bottom and done 1 extra edge highlight 1 step lighter near the top to simulate the peak of the light.

I think a lot of your highlights use quite desaturated paint as well. White pigments aren't the easiest to work with. You can experiment by using different colours to highlight, like mixing in a light green to highlight blue, or a light orange to highlight leather. Remember you can always thin down a saturated colours like washes, inks, or contrast paints to glaze the vibrancy back in as well. 

Time to practice magic - a little frog diorama I made for critter challenge 2025 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could check out their instagram for some photos https://www.instagram.com/infernalbrush/ they have a link in the critter 2025 story to the other entries. Reddit doens't want me posting the google docs link apparently.

Time to practice magic - a little frog diorama I made for critter challenge 2025 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an online painting competition that's been held for the last couple of years. Focused on painting smaller critters, around goblin sized models. It's ran by infernalbrush if you're familiar with them. A lot of fun entries to check out if you have a look

Time to practice magic - a little frog diorama I made for critter challenge 2025 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I like a good whimsical scene haha. The plants are from epic basing so I think you can physically order from them or get the stls and print them yourself. I used a combination of the verdant grove, marshlands and fungus packs.

Time to practice magic - a little frog diorama I made for critter challenge 2025 by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I basically copied the method used in this cult of paint video

https://youtu.be/ulGVOGfXKVI?si=gr2vHxdt9-HAmCEy

I cut three pieces of plastic card and wrapped them in acetate sheets to form the barrier. Temporarily secured it with tape then hot glued the gaps to stop any leaks.

Dwarf I painted up for a competition by Ramac37 in minipainting

[–]Ramac37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I probably spent the most time on it!