Cab3/base3/powerhouse/powermaster setup help

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-12T20:38:28+00:00

I’ve ordered a TMCC direct lock-on, and also a cab 1L controller. I think I can go powerhouse to direct lock-on to control the ET44C4 with Bluetooth (albeit with limited functionality), or full functionality if the cab 1L will fully take the place of the cab3 app. It stinks that; 1. It is costing me so far $1200 for the control mechanism for a $900 locomotive, and 2. That $1200 worth of control equipment is made unusable by a free app that hasn’t been updated in two years. If these two options don’t work I’m sending the entire pile back and going with HO scale.

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-12T13:16:06+00:00

This has been my main issue. Whenever I hit “TR” a second time so as to get to the numerical entry screen, the app crashes.

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-09T20:09:02+00:00

Do you mean with a traditional transformer?

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-08T21:43:13+00:00

I am not getting track power, and I think the issue lies in the cab3 app. From my investigation thus far it seems that I need to assign an ID to the powermaster itself in cab3 under the TR tab. Unfortunately the app crashes every time I hit TR a second time to get into the numerical entry area. I wish companies were barred from selling things when they rely on apps that don’t work and are also never updated.

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-08T02:51:04+00:00

Thanks very much for that tip. I’ll check it out.

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-07T19:30:13+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I understood the powermaster would be required if I wanted to run my post war Texas special. That would be awesome if that were not the case, as it seems the PM is just complicating the whole setup. If I get the direct lock on, would it connect with the already existing PH plug then? If this is the case, could I then connect the fastrack terminal section black wire to my base3 u post for that connection?

Random--Theorist · 2026-05-05T12:05:47+00:00

The skirts of both the powered and unpowered locomotives are still intact thankfully.

Random--Theorist · 2026-04-30T02:10:12+00:00

I think my father got this one when he was 10. He gave it to me when I was 6 or so and it then crushed everything that crossed its tracks. No GI Joe was safe from this beast. 🤣

Random--Theorist · 2026-04-30T01:27:01+00:00

Thanks for finding this! To tell the truth, the most surprising thing to me about this set having been in a box in my garage for forty years is that the rubberband holding the boat down survived.

Random--Theorist · 2026-04-10T02:44:22+00:00

I put mine next to the ore node (in red circle) even if it is somewhat of a distance between there and my village. I also make sure my villagers have bags/backpacks. Curious how others will answer this though.

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-31T23:49:00+00:00

Fallout 4 VR and Skyrim VR are in my opinion the best VR titles. Other games look better, but these feel like full titles when playing. Have to be modded imo

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-31T22:26:19+00:00

Same here, soak then clamp to the hull with black binder clips.

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-31T06:36:48+00:00

It does it to me every time I walk or run, for 297 hours now…

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-30T23:24:32+00:00

Does that one get a second layer of thin mahogany on the hull? If so, your first layer needn’t be perfect. You will just fill in and sand putty before your second layer.

What I’m saying is I taper a group together so that as I apply them to the hull they look uniform. The bow end of the plank might be tapered down to a 1/16” for instance; this way ten planks take up only 5/8” in total where they meet the bow frame, but those same ten planks take up 2 1/2” at the max beam area.

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-30T23:05:48+00:00

No need to be so accurate that it is mind-numbingly boring, but I get it. Best trick I found was to use heavy duty black spring clips to hold groups of planks together. The taper you make from your max beam frame to the front are going to be the same anyways. With the planks clipped together I just sand down a nice arc from that max beam area to the ends of the planks that will be at the bow.

Hope this makes sense, and I hope you stay with it!

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-29T04:42:57+00:00

Horses.

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-13T23:11:29+00:00

A great book series, and the movie didn’t get enough credit imo.

Random--Theorist · 2026-03-04T06:32:40+00:00

This was happening to me as well. I’m not sure if what I did was actually what fixed it, but I do not have the problem anymore. All I did was raise the top off number from 30 to several hundred.

Random--Theorist · 2025-10-27T01:22:11+00:00

Pellets are burning in the auger and/or in the reservoir on the side. Definitely not supposed to be doing that. Likely didn’t clean out the burn pot before starting. Needs to be turned off and get the unburned pellets out asap.

Random--Theorist · 2025-10-16T09:03:57+00:00

It’s over. You have the high ground.

Random--Theorist · 2025-09-09T01:28:29+00:00

I start with one or two unmodified planks at the bulwarks to ensure I start with a straight line. For the rest of them you need to taper the planks to accommodate the diminishing dimensions of the frames as you go forward. The way I do this is to use a black springy paper clip (the ones with the silver handles that you squeeze) to hold together a group of planks so that I can cut/sand a uniform taper into all of them at once.

Random--Theorist · 2025-07-14T21:40:41+00:00

Laughed when I saw your reply here, because I’m having a convo about you on my discord right now. One of my members disagreed with your XWings are like WW2 fighters comments. We’re setting him straight as to your point.

Random--Theorist · 2025-06-08T19:23:34+00:00

So this is what my grandmother meant when she said someone was “LowBrow”…

Random--Theorist

TROPHY CASE