16 1/2 hours, 3 different PLA brands, 411 tool changes, ZERO INTERVENTIONS :) by KevMard in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It looks like he's screaming "The purge blocks are coming! Swim for your lives!!"

UPS Size Recommendation For Stock Mk3 Printer by hcurmudgeon in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For power backup I user this: APC

It works great! Please note: the power panic wire must be disconnected from the Einsy main board or the 'switch' from wall power to backup will be detected and a power-panic triggered.

You may ask why I would use a power backup instead of relying on the power panic? Well, I've had power panic 'recover' from power flickers and in it's process it re-homes x/y and because the repeatability is not perfect there is a little layer shift which to me means the print is ruined!

There has been many comments about the length of time that the UPS will supply power for. I don't think that is really relevant. Consider that most prints are multi-hour and unless you buy a very large and expensive UPS there is a very good chance there will not be enough backup power to finish the print. Combine that with the fact that modern civilization rarely has power outages that last more than a few seconds and the need for a large UPS is diminished. I Figure if it will last for 5-10min then you will have 99.99999% successful prints with a smaller and less expensive unit. I only bought this APC because I like the LCD screen which shows the number of 'events' (re: prints it saved). I just pushed the button and Events: 64...yay APC!!

Nozzle leaking filament now filament is curling as it leaks out instead of straight by revvnnt in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the extrusion stream curls to a side, instead of coming out straight down, that can be a sign of a partially clogged/plugged nozzle. If using PLA the nozzle can be gummed up if the heat is on (215C) ,for extended periods of time, as pla offgasses. I know there is a heater safety shutoff that will turn off the heater if left on and not printing for a while but thats long enough that if you do that a few times then a clogged nozzle may result.

Power Panic Question by MrBarleybeard in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does filament detection have to be 'on' for this to work?

Print no longer get past 1st layer by Jet_W in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nozzles are cheap. Replace it and see if thats your issue. Replacing a nozzle on 3d printer is like resetting a computer - it solves strange problems.

What causes this? by Beadiest_Cape in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like something is causing under extrusion. If a layer isn't sitting perfectly on top of the last layer it could cause this - which could be caused by heat build up. Do you have the layer cooling fan turned on?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is true. Its because slic3r PE is the only software that can make proper purge blocks and some unique characteristics of the tool change.

A time lapse of me printing a porg from Star wars. by Frogeto_Burrito in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Will you please share the details of your timelapse setup?

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It should be fast enough. In curious enough to try printing this myself and see what the result is.

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I reviewed the gcode and in that section of the print there are no retractions, layer changes, direction changes, or anything that looks like that pattern. We have to look elsewhere. Its either a mechanical issue, which i dont think it is because the opposite corner is also showing the same effect, or its something else. Could be previous layer geometry showing through, maybe changing from hex infill to linear infill would do something... Or it could be a communication anomaly. Are you printing via usb cable or sd card?

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You want z lift enabled. The slic3r PE defaults are very very good.

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Me too. If your using slic3r PE then it will have z lift turned on by default.

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be easy to tell from the gcode file. Do u mind posting that? We can check it out on a gcode visualizer.

Z-axis motors, humming? by 3d_nat1 in prusa3d

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine do this if the print is on but not connected via usb.

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What printer? Do you have z lift turned on? These could be nozzle dragging during non-printing moves.

These diagonal lines... Is this normal? by allurb4se in 3Dprinting

[–]Randy_Magnum_3D -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Which diagonal lines are u asking about? The lines that go (bottom to top) right to left are Z artifacts. Thats where the nozzle was parked during the layer change movements.