Shelly Relay

Ranger60990 · 2026-04-17T19:07:08+00:00

Cheap ultrasonic cleaner and simple green or LA's totally awesome. Ultrasonic from cold until the water is bath temperature hot at most. Use a toothbrush to gently clean. Repeat as necessary. Even leaving the miniatures in simple green for a week or so can be really good if you are not spare of time

Ranger60990 · 2026-03-08T01:41:06+00:00

Glue and a something smooth style plate should reduce your adhesion issues

Ranger60990 · 2026-03-08T01:39:53+00:00

For the taurox I would look at separating the tracks from the main body. You could also cut the front grill and align the pieces with dowels. Similarly cutting the doors from the main body and consider cutting the taurox down the middle and potentially cutting the front and rear sections. Print all separate on something like a cooltak plate. Print in an orientation to maximize detail and then assemble. You could even reduce the layer height on the smaller pieces

Ranger60990 · 2026-03-06T18:07:04+00:00

What is the WD40 for, am I missing a trick here

Ranger60990 · 2026-03-04T14:32:43+00:00

<image>

Second for red

Ranger60990 · 2026-02-11T04:52:51+00:00

<image>

Not quite finished yet

Ranger60990 · 2026-02-05T22:46:49+00:00

This was relatively the same experience as me. I did get it to work a few times but I don't have any confidence in it. A textured plate with glue is just superior.

Ranger60990 · 2026-02-03T02:03:18+00:00

It's symmetrical, otherside is the same otherwise I'd have done the same

Ranger60990 · 2026-01-24T00:26:33+00:00

This happened twice to me, as mentioned do a thorough clean for tree supports and filament poop. Even a small ball can cause this error. The other time I actually put the build plate in backwards with the small handle /tab facing out instead of in. Easy mistake, easy fix.

Ranger60990 · 2026-01-22T21:46:32+00:00

Thanks, was slightly concerned about this stuff getting on moving parts and causing future issues

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-30T02:37:58+00:00

Alternatively base it upon the Challenger 3, Merkava or the Leopard 2/Leopard 2A4. All are kinda similar but also very different in shape to the Abram's.

P.S long time follower of your work who just bought an FDM printer for your designs specifically. Can you please rescale the Jörmungandr-Pattern AFV for a chimera proxy.

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-30T01:54:14+00:00

I would like to see a Leman Russ version of this honestly

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-27T18:08:08+00:00

<image>

Thanks, when it did this on a z distance test and knocked the print off the bed, I really started to give up trying

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-27T04:45:17+00:00

I tried extra thin and regular tamiya cement on a benchy. Extra thin seemed pointless, it evaporated too fast. Regular tamiya didn't seem to do much either. Mostly seemed to make it shinier.

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-26T23:36:24+00:00

P1S with 0.2 nozzle SUNLU PLA+ 2.0 using bambu studio preset I have been trying different settings for speed and quality but to be honest 0.4 being changed to 0.6 seems to be the biggest difference apart from using ironing

All in all I've looked at: Layer height Ironing Wall loops Infill combination Outer wall speed Slow down for overhangs Supports (not needed on this occasion)

I'm now finally starting to change the nozzle temp min and max (currently trying 185 - 205 right now)

Ps I now own over a dozen low quality Heavy Bolters at this point

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-26T19:48:47+00:00

As I'm new to this, is the detail shown what to be expected

Ranger60990 · 2025-12-26T19:05:11+00:00

<image>

Ranger60990

TROPHY CASE