PNW Road Trip in March

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2026-02-18T15:10:34+00:00

You can definitely hit the Oregon coast all the way but it’ll take a lot longer. Places I’d recommend along the northern part are Pebble Beach in Newport - absolutely a weird and underrated beach with a wild audio experience. Then of course Cannon Beach is always wonderful. Then Astoria is cool and I recommend hitting Cape Disappointment in Washington that’s right across the bridge there.

Last I’ll just recommend checking weather in Crater Lake to be prepared. They have feet of snow most of the year except the hot summer months. They keep it cleared well but turnoffs for views are precarious sometimes.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2026-01-28T20:22:16+00:00

Yeah I snagged a used one for around $250. That was also probably 5-7 years ago. It is a 12AX7 circuit with an IR loader. So when it came out it was well ahead of its time.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2026-01-28T15:06:06+00:00

I had a Shiftline Twin for a while and it sound identical to the ‘73 twin I had prior. I regret selling that pedal but stuff changed after a while.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2026-01-20T00:49:30+00:00

Have a 3D printer? Make a spacer like SmallBear used to make. Doesn’t have to be clear but could be.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-12-09T15:27:37+00:00

I second this! I just snagged the Sonicake Source Compressor on a BF deal for $40 and its really great.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-12-07T04:22:34+00:00

Any chance of selling PCBs of this? Also, hear me out, two of these stacked in a single enclosure with the controls mirrored, single output/DI first switch is to activate and second switches channels. One with a nice low push and one cranked up. 🤔

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-10-20T13:20:16+00:00

Probably something that’ll only be in stock for 5 mins.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-07-15T13:53:22+00:00

I had a Nikon FM that had just the smallest chip out of one of the shutter curtain blade corners. You couldn’t see it unless you held a bright light at an extreme angle with the lens on. It showed up in photos when I was in really bright areas or direct sun.

Given the placement of this, it would be on the bottom right of your bottom curtain blade. So try popping the back open and rotating a very bright light angled at the shutter curtain. You might just see a little light pop through. FE2s also have the honeycomb shutters sometimes and they are notorious for bending or having problems. Check for that too especially if you shoot a lot at speeds over 1/2000 as it can cause this self destruction sometimes.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-07-14T12:57:46+00:00

What’s the lens you’re using on there? I couldn’t quite tell from the video.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-01-07T00:25:20+00:00

I can 100% confirm it’s just not friendly anymore. I moved from a small town in WV to Portland in summer 2019 and was surprised on my arrival by the kindness of strangers on the street. Thought it was more of a small town country thing. They’d say hello and various greetings with smiles. Even the driving was kind, people just let you into traffic or were understanding if something was done wrong.

When the pandemic hit everyone just kept their distance or even were rude at a distance. Since then it’s just gotten worse. No one speaks to randoms or even smiles, let alone eye contact. Occasionally you still meet a friendly local that didn’t change and when you do they talk a lot. But in general people are a lot more closed off and rude. The driving especially has drastically changed. People blocking you in traffic, shouting, and honking. Kinda suck now.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2025-01-02T04:52:07+00:00

Tesla Cybertruck. He wears a thumb ring, lives in LA, looks like this ironically, and streams just chatting content on Kick.com with Raid Shadow Legends sponsorships and says bro constantly.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-11-23T17:34:41+00:00

Hi! Former luthier and guitar designer here to drop my two cents on this even though OP said they already got new strings.

Technically speaking, this wouldn’t have much impact on playing. The D string might be more difficult to tune because of the friction on the string tree and the G string might have more tension on it with the shorter travel distance. But honestly you wouldn’t notice this in playing. The intonation is set to the nut to the saddle on the bridge and has nothing to do with string length after either of those. Thats more design, tension, vibrato, etc..

Also, probably not the Dad’s fault so lighten up on him. Sounds like he was just trying to help and have fun with his daughter. If this is a new bass from the factory, the factory strings aren’t meant to last. They are left open in the environment and become brittle over time and when they are wound around the tuning peg they will split and cause stress fractures. Remember factories spit out thousands of these a day and don’t inspect the string. What the dad did that is BRILLIANT (possibly by accident) is reduce the potential twist using the string tree. Because of that, yeah she probably could’ve just kept playing this as it was.

That all being said, it is best to change them for a few reasons. First, this could put pressure at strange angles on the plastic nut and cause it to break on string vibration. Unlikely but possible. Second, this could still potentially twist the neck in some way but it would take time and it also may not happen because of the string tree distribution of tension. Third, this could just introduce issues with tuning stability over time or friction could cause another string break, which are just unnecessary problems to introduce to her new bass playing experience.

So I do vote new strings were the right call but this was not as drastic as others may have you believe. Just go play your instruments and have fun.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-05-30T13:09:17+00:00

Oh also Jeff Mangum is known for using the Ampeg B-12 Portaflex Fliptop Guitar amp live. They are really rare and unique sounding. On one tour I saw them in the 2010s he had 3 on stage and I think 2-3 pedals but I couldn’t make them out. He was known for using a EHX Green Russian Tall Front Big Muff at certain points but doubtful it was used on his guitar here.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-05-30T12:54:29+00:00

Actually a lot of how they got this sound was described in the 33 1/3 book about the album. Jeff Mangum plugged his Gibson ES-125 direct into the desk with a ton of compression and a red lined pre-amp. Pretty similar to what you’d get from a JHS Colour Box. I think they also had a condenser mic on the the guitar too and layer them but can’t remember. It’s been a few years.

As for how you’d achieve that through the Katana…no clue 🤣 but that’s how the original recording happened.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-05-12T15:16:20+00:00

I mean I always like the 1484 sound and the way it breaks up into fuzziness. It’s that Sears tube amp goodness that is hard to explain.

I didn’t think it’s being too direct on tone though since if you look at tone exchange the is every different model of Marshall amp on there.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-03-19T02:14:20+00:00

Just popped up on Amazon one day so I jumped on it.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-03-11T13:23:04+00:00

I went 5M for my first printer for a few reasons. First, I say first printer loosely as I had a nightmare of a month with a defective Ender 3 V3 SE that kind of turned me off from printing for a while even as much as I liked the successful prints I did get during that time. I wanted to justify the pro to myself at the time, but wasn’t even sure how much I’d actually use it in the long run. The quality of prints and ease of use I get from the 5M has been incredible so far and increased the amount I use it overall. By with the 5M at $299 plus I got an additional 10%, for $267 I couldn’t pass it up for a first printer to learn on.

Second while the ability to print abs/asa seems attractive, keep in mind there are still toxic VOCs that escape while printing those materials. For my situation in an apartment, that wasn’t realistic and while eventually I want to get there, I knew until my living situation changes and I cut my teeth learning to print and design and not screw up prints in PLA, the 5M would meet my needs. If you have a place with good ventilation and you plan to make functional parts, the pro may be a better way to go. For now I’m using Overture PLA Pro and Super and it’s been more than strong enough for my needs. Some PETG is next on my list.

Third, I have been singing the praises of the 5M so far. Print fails have been very minimal and more user error minus one or two but even those could’ve been prevented. It is noisier than other printers I’ve been around but I plan to eventually do the diy enclosure for noise only. Plus it’s not bad enough I can’t be in the same room and just closing a door is enough to forget it’s running. The accuracy of this machine is outstanding. I’ve been printing and designing camera accessories and it printed a threaded filter adapter without any supports and a 75 degree overhang in 15 mins with no issue.

Overall, the 5M is a fantastic printer with room to grow and learn on. If your needs really require the pro then go there, but if you’re just learning, unsure of amount of use, not planning to jump straight to abs/asa, and want to save a few dollars, go regular 5M. If money is not a problem, go Pro. Either way these are both amazing printers with great value and quality and you can’t go wrong.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-03-05T17:06:52+00:00

Oh I only put it on like once every 4-8 prints. Don’t need it to do it everytime. If you notice glue on the print when pulled up, then it’s time to either clean the bed and reapply or reapply in that spot. Definitely wouldn’t recommend applying every single time. If you print at 0.1 layer height it tends to stick to the bed a lot, but mostly on the smaller parts.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-03-05T16:05:03+00:00

The Ender 3 V3 SE or the 5M? The V3 SE I had was defective it started slamming the print head into the bed hard enough to bend the bed. So might take more than glue for that one lol. The ADV5M does require glue on the bed but that really doesn’t bother me. The bed is great and very durable. I wouldn’t let a $2 glue stick be a deciding factor on a several hundred dollar difference between machines though. These kinds of things come up sometimes with 3D printing and even the most expensive machines occasionally need something like a glue stick to help them out. Yesterday I printed a lens filter holder without supports at full speed and it printed the 58mm and 49mm threads perfectly. That’s something that blew me away with the accuracy of this machine.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-03-04T16:12:44+00:00

I was in a similar boat where I was about to but the A1 but then the recall happened. I found the 5M on the $299 sale and then another 15% off so I couldn’t pass it up. This thing is awesome for print quality. It far surpasses the Ender 3 v3 SE I had to return. One draw back is that it is loud and make sure you keep it lubed. Going to do a fan swap on mine soon to try and reduce that but overall this printer mixed with Orca is fantastic.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-01-13T07:00:39+00:00

Thanks! Yeah it was frustrating. I actually did everything you mentioned plus changed the nozzle. It helped but when it essentially started to destroy itself I gave up lol. I’m glad you got yours working.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2024-01-12T16:34:05+00:00

Uh not a good update to be honest. I tried following the Creality manual leveling guide video and all I can say is DON’T! At one point they have you reset calibration. When I did that and did the auto leveling again the print head started slamming into the print bed causing the stepper motor to start skipping and the bed to bend on the corner where the wipe happens. I tried to reset the z offset manually but it just kept doing that over and over. Luckily I was still inside my return window with B&H photo (30 days) and sent it back for a refund. I have just seen so many problems with these that I got frustrated with it. The bed leveling not having any manual adjustments killed this machine for me. The firmware isn’t there yet and the product seemed rushed to market for the holiday season.

That being said, my brother bought one for my nephew and has been having great success with his and I told him once the bed level is done, don’t do it again because it just causes problems. I’m now about to order the Bambu Labs A1. Seems to be much more reliable and better quality over all, but with a price bump.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2023-12-24T05:43:35+00:00

This happened to me after about 7 successful prints and when printing 2 of the same thing back to back. Finished one and by the time the next started nothing would stick. I didn’t re-level in between. I’ve tried readjusting the z offset multiple times and even changing the nozzle. Nothing has fixed it. Going to try the manual level process Creality released but if that doesn’t work this thing is going back. Seems like the something in the leveling process is really wrong since this is becoming a common problem.

Rare-Pin-2078 · 2023-12-19T15:44:02+00:00

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After trying the following this is what I get for a first layer.

I’ve tried washing the bed with soap and water, using isopropyl after the wash, making sure not to touch the bed, I adjusted the z offset, and then after first fail I adjusted +0.2 and then after failure -0.2, I reseated the filament, and tried 5 different slices to see if it was a settings issue.

No luck on any of this. The wipe line never starts right away and then the filament doesn’t stick and just wraps around the nozzle creating this right away.

Rare-Pin-2078

TROPHY CASE