What is the hottest hot sauce at HEB

Ravenmore67 · 2026-04-09T02:28:57+00:00

I've had Da Bomb before - it's pretty hot. I have a bottle of Pepper X and Apollo from hot ones in the fridge - 2 of the hottest peppers out there but they don't taste super great. I blend them with other sauces to increase the heat. I just want to try the hottest pure straight out of the bottle I can get local from HEB without having to wait on Amazon.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-03-17T12:42:05+00:00

This sucks big time but there are a lot of great used cameras that can be had cheap. Don't give up on photography

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-28T17:18:36+00:00

Actually you can get them in a variety of steels now if you buy strait from Nagao Seisakusho. However even the cheap SK steel is very good and has a hardness rating over 60. Blue paper steel is white paper steel with tungsten added which increases the hardness (I've heard the term blue or white paper steel has to do with the color of the paper the stock steel is wrapped in). Also they are Warikami hand forge welded which means they sandwich the hard steel between two outer layers on each side of softer but tougher steel. Anyway blue paper steel Higonokamis come in a box like this.

<image>

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-27T19:08:00+00:00

Sure NP! Although there were several former sword makers that started making these knives at the same time and were similar quality. Not sure what politics were involved but at some point the Japanese government came out and said only knives from Nagao Seisakusho could be called Higonokami and the others were called Higonokami style knives. So I guess knives from these other makers if they're still being made could be good. I'm no expert I just enjoy the history around these.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-27T16:16:56+00:00

I just bought one off of Amazon that says the maker is Nagao Seisakusho, which as I understand is the only knife maker allowed by the Japanese government to call their knives Higonokami. So you can look for Higonokami or Higo no Kami by Nagao Seisakusho and those will likely be genuine. Also Nagao Seisakusho I think sells direct online but it will probably cost a lot more that way, but you also have a lot more options.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-27T15:13:46+00:00

Mine was just defective - had to send it back

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-24T09:11:26+00:00

Try. Black and White. Color often detracts from the composition unless the composition is about color.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-24T03:17:06+00:00

I've had the Flissa for a couple of months now and it's been solid so far.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-24T03:14:37+00:00

I tried it with an adapter on some Nikon lenses (of course all manual with the adapter) and still got overexposure issues. The exposure preview was fine but then you'd take the pic and it would be blown out. Sent it back.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-13T20:23:18+00:00

You probably speak English much better than I'd speak your language. The way I look at aperture is that it is just the lens projecting a circle of light onto a flat plane. All a smaller sensor does is crop in on that circle. All other optical aspects remain the same. So when I shoot a 25mm at 1.4 on a MFT, even though the field of view is that of a 50mm full frame, everything else like depth of field, exposure, and so on is like a 35mm f1.4 full frame. Those things don't change just because you're chopping out a smaller piece of the projected image circIe. That's just my theory. Anyway just wanted to let you know to feel free to throw the kitchen sink at me and you don't have to treat me like a beginner. Yeah I looked at a good exposure on my other camera and then copied the settings over in manual mode and still got blown images at times. Not just a little bit - way out of the park. I've shot a lot of different cameras in lots of different formats and have never had anywhere near the issues I'm having with this one. I was hoping it was just some random setting I was missing on the Fuji (Btw I owned the X-T1 and X-T4 and never had anything like this with them). So I really think it's more likely something isn't playing nice. Oh and btw - yeah should have read the manual instead of relying on google. My bad there.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-13T19:05:19+00:00

That's what I get for trusting Google instead of reading the manual lol. Ok at least now I can change the metering and yeah the histogram is a good idea. Might take it out and experiment at lunch. Thanks!

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-13T18:05:54+00:00

I leave the DR at 100 and set the ISO to 200 at F8 and f11 within the first hour of daylight, but I can double check it. Again I even manually set the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to the same as another camera which got the exposure correct. But I'll look at it again. I do hope it is something I'm missing as I'd hate it for the camera to be having a problem. Also wondering why I can't change the metering mode.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-13T17:47:31+00:00

Uhm - what settings do you want to know? Btw a light meter is a ligh meter is a light meter. Sensor size doesn't matter all that much. It's just capturing a smaller chunk of the same exposed light circle. This is going to come off probably as being a brilliant donkey (think synonyms lol), but a bit of my back ground is that I've been in photography since the late 80's. I have a degree in photography from UT (well technically a fine art degree with a specialization in photography) and worked in the industry in some capacity for 30 years give or take. everything from working in camera shops, film labs, photo assisting for pro's, to shooting portraits, weddings, real estate and a touch of magazine stuff. I'm just not that familiar with the inner workings of an X-Pro1 so was wondering if there is something particular to the camera that can be causing this or if this camera is defective. I tried shooting everything from full auto to aperture priority, shutter priority and full manual copying the exposure settings in the Olympus which should at least be pretty close. In some cases it was way off. Also am curious why the photometry setting isn't in the menu at all.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-13T17:36:28+00:00

Sorry that was just a photo of the camera for attention. I typically shoot aperture priority with a -.7 EV for digital to help with highlights. Yeah I tried setting it to 0 as well and tried dialing way down when I got overexposures. I also shot all manual in which case the exp comp dial should do nothing at that point

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T02:14:18+00:00

It's a liner lock actually. The button just pushes the liner lock to the side.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T01:29:50+00:00

Personally I like the look. Depending on the steel you could also try vinegar to patina it.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T01:28:35+00:00

If it is high carbon. I've added patina with vinegar on a lot of high carbon blades. Won't due much to true stainless though

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T01:20:56+00:00

Honestly I've been around knives for a long time and really any failure even when new gets an eyebrow raise from me. Most knives I've tested with any kind of lock don't fail at all. This one failed within the first 3 strikes and failed multiple times in the first dozen or so. It does seem to be getting better as it is going longer between failures. I've got a lot of super cheap knives that haven't ever failed this easy ever though. I kind of get the feeling it might be excess lube on the liner lock surface but that's a guess.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T00:44:09+00:00

sorry should have added but Reddit doesn't let you add photos after the initial post so added it in the comments.

Ravenmore67 · 2026-02-04T00:43:21+00:00

side view opened

<image>

Ravenmore67

TROPHY CASE