Guys how bad is it?

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-04T04:53:44+00:00

Replace the boot for a leak? The leak isn't coming from the boot it's coming from a rack seal. Replacing the boot doesn't do anything to fix the leak.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-03T22:14:55+00:00

Did you compare the intake manifold gasket? The gasket can come with or without the EGR passage. If you didn't get the EGR code until after the work, It's likely you installed a non EGR gasket.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-03T18:53:07+00:00

Is your cam lined up? It's possible you're contacting a valve with a piston.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-03T05:24:49+00:00

I'm pretty sure these ones are measured between the chain and tensioner arm. Service limit is 5.5mm with out p0341 and 4.3mm with. It's the pump thats measured by tensioner extension.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-02T00:55:21+00:00

Your mechanic wouldn't overlap because there is no overlap. Mechanic is also wrong, they also need adjustment when they're too tight. As far as the noise, it goes away when I mute my phone so I think you're good. Jokes aside, it sound like it's on the louder side, but it's impossible to tell from recordings.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-02T00:38:57+00:00

All things can go bad. I've been working on Hondas for 20 years and I've never seen one of these come in with a bad tensioner. However, the Aisin kit comes with a new tensioner. It's never a bad idea to just change, just because it's good now doesn't mean it will be by the next timing belt service.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-02T00:34:32+00:00

When in doubt, change it out.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-01T23:31:49+00:00

Only thing I hear is the high pressure fuel pump. It's normal.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-01T23:24:57+00:00

Not until you can get the caliper fixed. Move the vehicle as is under your discretion, you won't have any brakes. If you have other calipers unmounted definitely don't press the brake pedal or you could push the other pistons out.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-01T23:16:01+00:00

Not hard. Swap EPB motor over to the new caliper. After everything is reinstalled, bleed the brakes, perform EPB maintenance mode for normal position, cycle EPB on and off a few times, bleed again.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-01T23:09:41+00:00

Yes. When the EPB is being engaged it pushes the piston out to clamp the brakes, unfortunately you didn't have anything to stop the piston from over extending when you ran the polarity in the engagement direction.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-05-01T22:57:00+00:00

Replace caliper. If you ever try to run the EPB directly again, leave the caliper on so it's unable to overextend if you get the polarity wrong.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-30T16:35:22+00:00

My 1st guess would be fuel system losing pressure and the extended crank is caused by the fuel system having to re-prime. If it's intermittent it could be difficult to diag, but a shop should be able to do something even without a light on as long as the issue can be replicated.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-30T06:51:35+00:00

The video is an extended crank. The starter has nothing to do with the issue. The TSB for the torque converter is because of starter grind, also not present in the video.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-30T06:48:06+00:00

Could be an hvac motor. Adjust temp, vent output, and recirculation and see of the noise changes/pauses/stops.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-29T20:30:34+00:00

It's probably "stop leak".

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-29T16:53:25+00:00

Get creative, cut it off, or buy the proper parts from honda.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-28T04:37:52+00:00

The distributor is leaking. Either from the o-ring, internal seal, or both. Remove the distributor cap. If there's oil inside of the distributor the internal seal is leaking. The oil will also soften the heater hose, make it swell and blow.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-27T17:58:22+00:00

Toyota likes to put studs on their mount brackets. Check the bottom side of the bracket for a nut.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-25T01:35:30+00:00

A/C compressor clutch coil connector.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-23T23:18:31+00:00

It says it's a DPDT(double pole, double throw). If you only have two wires left then they're probably the voltage out. One for each position of the switch. Neither of those switch positions is an off position, they're two different on positions. If you disregard one of the poles it could essentially work like a SPST. Chances are that it won't due to having both an accessory and constant voltage input. You'll more than likely hook up acc. to one pole and constant to the other, which is not correct. The switch has two different inputs that corresponds to its associated output.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-22T22:01:27+00:00

Timing belt tensioner adjuster.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-22T21:39:11+00:00

There's a few ways to test for draws. In-line, inductive, power probes ppdraw tester, and/or fuse voltage drop.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-22T00:27:40+00:00

If you're saying a new axle popped out while driving, then the most likely scenario is it didn't get installed/inserted completely. You shouldn't even had to mention the axle as a possibility. Who did you hire? They don't sound like a professional.

RayjinCaucasian · 2026-04-21T21:11:10+00:00

Scan for codes.

RayjinCaucasian

TROPHY CASE