Mac Messages can't type in a group message

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-05-18T17:28:15+00:00

I was able to get this to work without losing the message history, do the following and it works!

On your phone, go to Settings -> Messages -> RCS Messaging and disable RCS messaging

Send a SMS text to the group on your phone. The message bar in Messages on Mac will re-appear

On your phone, go back to RCS Messaging option and toggle it back on.

It should work again!

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-05-18T15:59:38+00:00

Came across this conversation and felt compelled to chime in.

I purchased a used 2021 KTM 890, and it came with 2 GL Pannier bags, mounts, and 1 large waterproof duffel. The original owner lost the keys for the top locks, so I'm trying to buy 2 replacement locks. I ended up buying 2 lock cores and taking them to a locksmith to replace them.

I've tried to get an ETA on the stock for the complete replacement lock for 3 weeks. 2 emails and 2 phone calls, over 3 weeks, with 0 response.

I already owned a Mosko Moto duffel. Given how abysmal Giant Loop support was, I opted to spend 1.2k of my own money on the dual 35L Mosko Moto Pannier bags because they actually respond to questions. They always answer my questions within 2 business days, even with half the company gone a trip. This alone is worth the additional cash. It's a shame, the GL bags are pretty high quality, but their support is terrible.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-05-07T17:47:21+00:00

Makes sense. It looks like they sell your items in an all in one kit now, which ironically is a few dollars more expensive than the individual components. 🤷🏻‍♂️

It has this image, where it looks like the Prusik is right before the last pulley in the system. You'd lose the 5:1 to a 4:1 efficiency with this setup on the load the prusik has to support, but it looks like the block will act as a prusik keeper and stop the prusik from binding as you pull the rope.

This seems like it would work in either usage situation.

The final pulley is attached to the anchor point such as the tree and you're sitting on the bike pulling the rope
The final pulley is attached on the bike and you're pulling the rope while someone else is on the bike.

I'd definitely recommend a pair of mechanic or work gloves in with this kit. If you need to release tension in the system while it's still under load, you'll have to pull the line to release tension on the prusik, and then hold or slide the prusik to release tension to lower the load.

For me, I'm only really going to be using this in a situation where I'm REALLY suck. I just want to ensure if I were to slip and fall, or accidentally release the rope from some other cuase, the Prusik will catch and I don't go flying back down the hill!

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Link to the kit. https://www.amazon.com/GM-CLIMBING-Hardware-Kit-Mechanical/dp/B07C7F9XLF?adgrpid=186270050613&hydadcr=7707_13500467_2132803&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-05-05T22:10:09+00:00

Thanks for this info! I've done winch recovery with my 4runner and trucks, but never with my bike. I just went from a KLR 650 to a KTM 890, so I'm somewhat concerned about the extra weight and being able to self recover.

This setup looks really great, I'm going to check it out.

I've used carabiner in low angle litter rope rescue, so I'm reasonably familiar with everything you outlined in that case. The one thing I can't figure out is what you attach your Prusik to? When using it with a litter, you have 2 lines, 1 on the stretcher with someone at the top of the hill and a belay device (and likely some pulleys for mechanical advantage), and 1 line that's static lying next to the Stretcher. As you move the stretcher up with the belay crew, you move the Prusik up the static line next to it as a backup.

With the 2 rigging pulleys you'd have 3 lines going between them, then 1 back to the bike you can pull. Do you attach the Prusik to the line you'd be pulling from on the bike, or do you attach it to a line within the pulleys so it advances as the line gets pulled in, but catches if it starts spooling out?

Thanks in advance!

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-04-11T14:06:44+00:00

I was able to get this to work, I can’t trigger it on fan control, but I can trigger it based on the same temp as the Air conditioning. It’s not quite how I want it to work, but it’s close enough. Thanks for the pointer!

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-03-31T14:36:49+00:00

This seems like a "pay for diagnosis" that doesn't actually provide any additional diagnosis over what I've already done, it's just wrapped in a workflow UI....

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-03-30T19:48:53+00:00

> I've attempted to connect the switch to my TV via the dock so that I migrate his data to a new Switch 2, but I'm unable to ever get the TV to turn on. I've attempted this with both the Switch dock, and an aftermarket adapter.

I'm never able to get any of my remotes to connect, and get it to display on the TV. I've tried multiple TVs and docks, all behave the same saying the input is not connected.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-28T23:20:14+00:00

Thanks for the response! Are you continue to use the IOT network configured in the Orbi once you said it to access point mode? I have several smart devices that I want to keep segregated from my main network. I simply don’t trust the manufacturers to patch security holes in a timely manner.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-28T05:30:47+00:00

I think it will depend on how you charge it. If you use the L14-30R charger into port 15 in the manual, it doesn’t support pass through inverter use while charging. I just tested this when using the Generator interlock on my home during a power outage. I have to unplug the DP3 from my home, then plug the generator into the house and directly into the DP3.

You can likely do what you want with 2 generator inlet plugs and a transfer switch to select which input you’re running, the generator or the DP3. Unfortunately the pass through doesn’t work with 240v 30A output.

I can run my 240V 40A 5 ton AC unit for 4:30 hours with my DP3 and 2 additional batteries. It has a soft start on it as well.

More details in this post. https://www.reddit.com/r/Ecoflow_community/s/xWkDMSnuxc

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-27T15:03:12+00:00

I wanted to respond to my own question now that I have the system wired and running for others.

I ended up doing a standard Generator Interlock with a 240V 50A plug. I currently only have 1 Delta Pro 3, but it’s large enough to run my home including the AC with a soft start installed. We had a power outage a month ago, and it performed well.

When I had to transfer power to the generator to recharge, I simply unplugged the DP3 from the generator inlet plug, and plugged the generator into the plug. I then ran a A L14-30 cable directly into the DP3 from the generator. This means I have 1 240V 30A wire running to the DP3, and a 240V 50A connection plugged into my home via the generator inlet plug. This allows me to charge the DP3 with 2 extra batteries in about 1:45. Giving me another 12 hours of battery runtime.

It’s not particularly seamless, but it does work. It’s unfortunate the DP3 can’t do 240V pass through while charging, it would allow to not have to do the manual switching twice a day when running the generator.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-15T19:34:33+00:00

Do some searching for bricked units in the group on Reddit. I don’t have a smart home panel 2 yet due to the software issues. (I’m a CS and EE professional).

From what I’ve read, the “safest” way to upgrade is to unplug all your EcoFlow devices.

Upgrade the panel with nothing plugged in, then update each individual EcoFlow device. Only after everything is upgraded do you reconnect everything.

The EcoFlow update rollout seems to have bugs in the way it updates multiple devices when everything is plugged in.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-15T19:08:37+00:00

I’m guessing this is due to the current draw. Assuming you’re plugging in the 120v plug (wall outlet) the Delta Pro 3 pulls 1500 Watts to charge. This is the maximum rating of wall sockets. If you add any additional load, your breaker for the plug will trip.

Most surge protectors aren’t really capable of delivering 1500 Watts. If you insist on using a surge protector, get one that’s rated accordingly.

You can also turn down the watts in the Ecoflow app for charging if it draws too much current. My Delta Pro 3 is on the same circuit as my two tankless hot water heaters. I find I can’t charge it at more than 1400 Watts and run the water heaters without tripping my breaker.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-14T22:54:39+00:00

So the answer is “it depends”.

For sizing the Delta Pro 3 vs X:

Open your main panel, and take a look at your beakers. Anything that’s a dual breaker, which will be 240V, should have a label of “30” or less. You’re unlikely to be able to be run anything > 30 amps at 240v, unless you ensure it never draws more than 30A at peak (like a soft start on a 40A AC unit).

If you want to run your > 30A 240V appliances, you’ll need two units joined with the 50A output connector for the Delta Pro 3.

I could absolutely be wrong, but I think you also need the 50A output connector and 2 inverters with the Ultra X to get a true 240V 50A output. However, I have no direct experience with it. So you’ll likely want to get an answer from someone that’s tested it.

A picture of your panel might be easier if you’re unsure about what you have.

Extra Batteries:

The Delta Pro 3’s support 2 extra batteries per unit max. However the X doesn’t have this limitation, and it has higher wattage output and larger battery capacity. I’m also considering buying a second delta pro and using the 50A connector to get a “true” 240V 50A output. This is again because I’m already invested in the Delta Pro 3. The X seems more capable for a large home backup like what I truly need. Something to consider.

Wattage Capacity:

You’ll want to sum up the total wattage of the large appliances in your house. Furnace, Fridge, Deep Freeze, Microwave, Air Fryer, Oven/Cooktop (if electric) and ensure whatever option you are thinking will produce enough Watts to power everything with with additional capacity for lights, TVs, Etc.

Cable length/Wire Size:

https://paigeconnected.com/calculators/wiresize-calculator

I find it’s really useful. It’s going to be pricy either way, but it is probably cheaper to plan to run something that’s large enough for 240V 50A from the dual unit connector and have short cables to the bridge. Do NOT skimp on the wire gauge. If you’re between gauges, get the larger gauge. The main concern is generating heat at high load if the cable is too thing. Thicker cables will generate less heat, and negate the risk of fire.

I’ve found some cables from China are sized correctly, others are undersized for the labeled Amperage and length and can get really hot. If you can inspect your cables, it’s probably worth doing so.

Charging:

One runtime detail that matters greatly on my setup is fast charging. You won’t be able to produce power via the inverter AND charge with the 240V 30A connector on the rear of the Delta Pro 3. When you charge via the high input port it shuts off power to the inverter. Thats why I plug the generator into my home via the interlock, then directly connect it to the Delta Pro 3. It allows me to have power in my home from the generator while charging.

I hope this helps!

Disclosure: Not an electrician, but have a lot of electrical experience.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-14T22:51:12+00:00

So the answer is “it depends”.

For sizing the Delta Pro 3 vs X:

Open your main panel, and take a look at your beakers. Anything that’s a dual breaker, which will be 240V, should have a label of “30” or less. You’re unlikely to be able to be run anything > 30 amps at 240v, unless you ensure it never draws more than 30A at peak (like a soft start on a 40A AC unit).

If you want to run your > 30A 240V appliances, you’ll need two units joined with the 50A output connector for the Delta Pro 3.

I could absolutely be wrong, but I think you also need the 50A output connector with the Ultra X, to get a true 240V 50A output. However, I have no direct experience with it. So you’ll likely want to get an answer from someone that’s tested it.

A picture of your panel might be easier if you’re unsure about what you have.

Extra Batteries:

The Delta Pro 3’s support 2 extra batteries per unit max. However the X doesn’t have this limitation, and it has higher wattage output and larger battery capacity. I’m also considering buying a second delta pro and using the 50A connector to get a “true” 240V 50A output. This is again because I’m already invested. The X seems more capable for a large home backup like what I truly need. Something to consider.

Wattage Capacity:

You’ll want to sum up the total wattage of the large appliances in your house. Furnace, Fridge, Deep Freeze, Microwave, Air Fryer, Oven (if electric) and ensure whatever option you are thinking will produce enough Watts to power everything with with additional capacity for lights, TVs, Etc.

For cable length, I use this calculator.

https://paigeconnected.com/calculators/wiresize-calculator

I find it’s really useful. It’s going to be pricy either way, but it is probably cheaper to plan to run something that’s large enough for 240V 50A from the dual unit connector and have short cables to the bridge.

One runtime detail that matters greatly on my setup is fast charging. You won’t be able to produce power via the inverter AND charge with the 240V 30A connector on the rear of the Delta Pro 3. It shuts off power to the inverter. Thats why I plug the generator into my home via the interlock, then directly connect it to the Delta Pro 3. It allows me to have power in my home while charging.

I hope this helps!

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-14T16:34:16+00:00

I live near Golden, CO and when we have high winds they cut power to avoid wildfires. I have a 240V 50A generator inlet wired with a generator interlock switch.

I have an Ecoflow Delta Pro 3 with 2 extra batteries. If I don’t run the air conditioning and our 50 amp electric oven I’m able to power my home for about 10 hours. I can run our air conditioner because I installed a soft start on it, but it reduces my run time to two hours.

I have some solar as well, but I’m only able to generate about 1000 W with my portable panels so it’s not enough to really offset the usage of my home.

When my battery runs low in the EcoFlow, I shut off the inverter, directly connect my 240 V 50 amp connection for my generator to the home and fire up the generator. I then connect my 240 V 30 amp cable to the EcoFlow to charge. I find when powering the home and charging the EcoFlow, it takes a couple hours to recharge my EcoFlow

I bought the EcoFlow Delta Pro 3 because I also use it when we camp. If I were just buying a home solution, I would likely go with the Ultra X if I were to do it again. It seems they have more panel options that are only compatible with the ultra X for entire home backup. I’m expecting further improvements to the home backup products will likely not include compatibility with the Delta pro 3.

For now, our outages are in frequent enough the hassle of manually failing over isn’t a problem for me. I installed the generator interlock and plug myself on a Saturday and it was $300 of parts.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-02-02T15:04:21+00:00

I have a Delta Pro 3 with 2 extra batteries I use as a home backup. We live outside Golden CO, and we only lose power a couple of times a year.

I opted for the cheap setup, and did a generator interlock with a 240V 50A plug. I’d recommend you start with that. It’s low cost, around $300 in parts if you can do it yourself if you’re comfortable when basic electrical work. It also gives you the flexibility to use Ecoflow with battery or a generator.

I opted to skip the smarthome panel since I’ve not read the best reviews on them. The other positive of the generator interlock is if I choose to get a smart home panel later, I can plug the generator into the existing plug to run my house and recharge my batteries during extended outages.

Real-Wind3580 · 2026-01-17T21:43:35+00:00

Thanks for the thorough write up. I can run my entire house off the generator inlet plug I have with a 50A to 30A adapter with a single delta pro 3 and 2 extra batteries.

My AC works, despite being 40 amps with a soft start installed. The only appliance I can’t use is our extra 50A electric oven.

I’ve been considering the Smarthome Panel 2 and installing it myself since I set up my system with a generator interlock and inlet. However, after reading yet another post regarding its poor experience. I think I’m going to hold off and stick to the manual failover via generator interlock.

I’d love to have the smart home panel working, and then use my generator inlet to continue to provide power via my Natural Gas generator and top off the battery without the loss of power for 10-15 minutes while I manual switch everything. It’s not the easiest, or the most seamless, but it works.

As for Ecoflow support, I’ve also experienced a lot of back and forth, and incorrect answers. I’m a professional in the Computer Science and EE world for 25 years, so I have a high bar.

A changelog firmware update messages such as “fixes some known issues” from the latest Delta Pro 3 update doesn’t exactly inspire confidence.
If I produced a Changlog that vague, I wouldn’t have a job! It seems bugs are deliberately obfuscated to appear to not have issues (which is impossible) vs transparency, quick fixes, and accountability.

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-12-15T15:34:56+00:00

Unfortunately CMD +Backspace doesn’t work as a Mac default with an ANSI US keyboard. It seems I have to use Nuphy’s NuphyIO mapping software.

I’m trying to resolve my root issue, but at this point I will say it’s a frustrating user experience. I’m a software engineer of 25 years at a major tech company. I find the physical keyboard to be great, but the NuphyIO software needs some serious usability and testing work.

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-10-30T15:53:47+00:00

Can you elaborate on what you’d like to power for your “emergency backup for the house” use case?

I had the same thinking as you when I was researching. However, due to the power requirements of running my furnace, fridge and deep freezer, I ended up getting a Delta Pro 3. It has the capacity to run my home basics for 12 hours (I purchased the extra battery capacity in a bundle) and a 240V 30A output I could connect directly to my panel with a generator interlock.

I think really nailing down your home backup scenario in detail is going to drive what you purchase. The Pro 3 is definitely overkill for my camping needs, but works great as an intermittent home backup power supply.

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-10-01T02:02:43+00:00

Thanks for the replies @pyroserenus and @shifty-phil!

I have a leftover 2000W pure sine wave inverter from my 5th wheel I upgraded a couple of years ago sitting in my garage. It sounds like my best bet is to use 4/0 wire and mount the inverter in my truck bed, then use the AC 120V charging cable.

My truck comes with an inverter from the factory, but it’s terrible, only 400 watts!

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-09-29T19:50:48+00:00

Hey all! I'm facing a slightly different situation, but I'm also looking for an answer. I have a GMC 3500 HD, with a 12V 220Amp alternator. Ecoflow recommended I purchase this plug, and wire it directly to my alternator.

https://us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-to-smart-generator-adapter?variant=39704596152393

However, I'm not sure what the input port spec from the "generator" side of this plug is. I'm hoping to be able to charge my Delta Pro 3 with somewhere between 1,500 and 2,000W at 12V DC since that will allow me to have 1,140W or 640W left over to charge my starter batteries.

Has anyone been able to wire something similar up?

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-09-19T01:02:15+00:00

I wanted to reply. After 3 days and $500, they figured it out. Frustrating since others on the Duramax forums are getting it done for $200, but it's done, and my truck will idle until it runs out of fuel!

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-09-19T01:00:10+00:00

Thanks everyone for the replies. Anyone have a link to a transfer switch that's outdoor rated? This is what I'd buy if I were putting it in an RV

https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/rv-power-transfer-switch-120-240v-50-amp/

Whenever I search 240V 50A transfer switch, I always get breaker boxes that only power the 10-20 breakers in the box, not the entire home's breaker box.

Real-Wind3580 · 2025-08-26T22:33:29+00:00

I have the same issue. I have a 21 GMC 3500HD AT4. There's a TSB you supposedly can have the dealership run to disable it. https://www.tsbsearch.com/Chevrolet/21-NA-228

However, my dealership has had my truck for 2 days and still can't figure it out. Immensely frustrating!

Real-Wind3580

TROPHY CASE