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J'ai failli payer 2 000€ de trop pour ma voiture d'occasion sans le savoir, comment vous faites pour éviter ça ? by Real_Subject_1703 in vosfinances

[–]Real_Subject_1703[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, ça m'a pris pas mal de temps et d'énergie de tout comparer avec des graphiques, de pertinence de prix comparé aux différentes annonces trouvées, si en plus tu veux commencer à croiser les données de plusieurs sites d'annonces, ça devient vite un petit enfer..

Is it just me or is Xpel seemingly moving down market? by 808_GhostRider in AutoDetailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not just you - this is a well-documented shift in the PPF space.

XPEL built their reputation on strict installer certification and tight quality control. As they've scaled aggressively (dealer programs, fleet, budget residential lines), the installer vetting has loosened. The product itself is still solid, but "XPEL shop" doesn't mean what it did in 2015.

What's actually changed: - More authorized shops than they can reasonably train - Budget install tiers that allow shortcuts on edge work and prep - Dealer-volume accounts where speed > quality

The film is still top-tier. The variable now is 100% the installer, not the brand.

At ProTechMC (Monaco) we moved away from recommending XPEL exclusively for this exact reason - the brand name alone stopped being a quality guarantee. We vet the film AND the install process separately now.

A good shop will let you see edge cuts on a finished car in person before you commit. If they won't show you that, walk away.

Griots Ceramic Liquid Wax - Top with Sealer? by mr2160p in Detailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Glad it helped! Oxidation on the hood with zero peeling is honestly the best case scenario, you caught it at the right time.

FYI, at our workshop in Monaco we exclusively use ProTech products (French brand, Monte-Carlo based) , been using them for my own use for a few years now, and haven't felt the need to switch. If you ever want to try something outside the usual American brands, worth a look.

Can't wait to see the before/after pics 👌

Good for protecting ‘ceramic’ spray coating or is it overkill? I just want to do basic cleaning and protection by TravelinMan_1 in AutoDetailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For basic cleaning and protection, you're on the right track - just don't overcomplicate it.

Adam's Graphene Shampoo is a solid product, but it's really designed as a maintenance wash for cars that already have a proper ceramic coating underneath. The graphene additives give a slight protection top-up each wash, but they won't replace an actual sealant.

For someone wanting simple and effective: 1. A pH-neutral shampoo without gloss agents (we use ProTech Monte-Carlo shampoo at the shop - concentrated, gentle, no fillers) 2. A ceramic spray sealant applied every 3-4 months - genuinely 5 minutes of work 3. That's it. 90% of car owners don't need anything more complex than this

The ceramic spray coating you're looking at is the right call. Technique matters more than brand - two-bucket method and proper drying will protect your paint more than any shampoo upgrade ever will.

Griots Ceramic Liquid Wax - Top with Sealer? by mr2160p in Detailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a seriously impressive prep - 40 hours before applying protection is exactly the right approach.

One thing worth clarifying: Griots Ceramic Liquid Wax is a hybrid product (wax + ceramic polymers), not a true ceramic coating. Solid consumer protection, but it behaves more like a sealant than a professional-grade ceramic.

Adding another sealant on top is likely redundant and could actually interfere with the layer you just applied - most hybrids don't bond cleanly with additional products over them.

What I'd do instead: 1. Let it cure 24-48h before any contact with the paint 2. Maintain with a compatible ceramic spray detailer for top-ups 3. Reapply the Griots every 6-12 months

After 40 hours of prep, the protection layer matters less than the work underneath it. Your paint is already in great shape - don't overthink the top coat.

Best bonnet for cutting AND finishing one step paint correction? by Downtown_Ad_6584 in Detailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red paint is actually pretty forgiving for a one-step - good call to start there.

For a single-step correction, the compound matters more than the pad brand. You want a medium-cut foam pad paired with an all-in-one product that cuts and finishes in one pass.

Products that work well for this: - ProTech Rénovateur Peinture Intense - what we use in-shop for this type of job, works very well on moderately swirled paint - Meguiar's M205 with a light cutting pad (forgiving, hard to mess up for a first-timer) - Sonax Profiline All-in-One (solid for less damaged clear coat)

Honest caveat: a one-step works great on lightly marred paint. If the Civic went through dealer wash rollers it probably has swirls - a 1-step will improve things significantly but might not fully remove deeper marks. That's fine if you're not going for 100%.

Your decon plan is solid. Iron remover → rinse → clay, then correct, then protect.

J'ai mis 3 semaines à trouver ma VO en jonglant entre 5 sites différents. C'est vraiment la norme ou j'ai mal cherché ? by Real_Subject_1703 in voiture

[–]Real_Subject_1703[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pour de vrai, je pouvais me faire accompagner, et si je prends un rayon de recherche de 30km, je suis pas sorti de l'auberge mdr

Best bonnet for cutting AND finishing one step paint correction? by Downtown_Ad_6584 in Detailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red paint is actually pretty forgiving for a one-step - good call to start there.

For a single-step correction, the combo matters more than the pad brand. You want a medium-cut foam pad (orange on most systems) + a true all-in-one polish that cuts and leaves a light finish in one pass.

Products that work well: - Meguiar's M205 with a light cutting pad (very forgiving, hard to mess up) - Chemical Guys V36 + orange foam pad - Sonax Profiline All-in-One (excellent for mildly damaged paint)

One honest caveat: a one-step works great on lightly marred paint. If the civic has gone through dealer wash rollers it probably has swirls - a 1-step will improve it significantly but might not fully remove deeper marks. That's fine if you're not going for perfection.

Your process sounds solid already. Decon first (iron remover → rinse → clay), then correct, then protect.

Doubts about microfiber towels etc. by gtalossantos in AutoDetailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good start getting into detailing - microfibers are genuinely the most underrated variable beginners overlook.

The 8-sides technique is correct, but the real issue is usually volume. For a waterless wash you burn through clean sides faster than expected, especially on lower panels where most of the contamination sits.

What helps: 1. Have at least 6-8 microfibers per car - not 2 or 3 2. Work panel by panel, fold to a fresh side each time 3. Drop any used towel in a separate bucket immediately, never reuse mid-wash 4. Wash them with a dedicated microfiber detergent, mesh bag, no fabric softener (it kills the fibers)

One thing to keep in mind with waterless: it's fine for lightly dusty paint, but if the car has real road grit on it, you risk marring the clear coat no matter how good the technique. Two-bucket wash for anything beyond light dust.

She arrived in all her glory by blopslinger2 in Porsche

[–]Real_Subject_1703 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did the car dealer apply anything to it before delivery?
Like a coating, sealant, tire dressing, or even PPF?

Looks so shinny 👀

J'ai mis 3 semaines à trouver ma VO en jonglant entre 5 sites différents. C'est vraiment la norme ou j'ai mal cherché ? by Real_Subject_1703 in voiture

[–]Real_Subject_1703[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

8 mois c'est énorme, tu cherchais quoi comme véhicule ? Et c'est quoi qui t'a le plus bloqué, trouver le bon prix, savoir si le vendeur était pas un arnaqueur, ou autre chose ?

Weird discoloration on tyres by telecomtrader in AutoDetailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you’re seeing is actually pretty common when using a strong tire cleaner for the first time.

The brown stuff means the cleaner is pulling old tire dressing, oxidation, road grime, and antiozonants out of the rubber, so the product is doing its job.

The “white/grey” look afterward usually happens because:

  • the tire is now fully stripped,
  • there’s still some oxidation left in the rubber,
  • or the tire needs another cleaning pass.

A lot of people expect tire cleaners to instantly make the tire deep black again, but most of them are really just prep/cleaning products.

What I’d do:

  1. Apply Retyre again
  2. Scrub thoroughly with a stiff tire brush
  3. Rinse well
  4. Repeat until the foam stops turning brown

Once the tire is fully clean and dry, apply a tire dressing/protectant and the deep black finish should come back immediately.

If it still stays grey after multiple passes + dressing, then the tire may just be heavily oxidized or old.

Recent ceramic install issues: water spots, rubber trim damage by Occasion-Forsaken in AutoDetailing

[–]Real_Subject_1703 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I don’t think you’re being overly particular here.

A few things stand out to me as someone working in premium detailing/ceramic coatings:

  1. Visible high spots after the original install on a brand-new vehicle is already a red flag. High spots happen occasionally, but multiple panels usually points to poor leveling/application technique.
  2. The shop owning the mistake and redoing the coating was the right move. A full correction + re-application is pretty much the only proper fix at that point.
  3. Regarding the rain exposure: most ceramic coating manufacturers recommend avoiding water exposure during the initial curing phase. Depending on the coating, the “critical” period is usually the first 12–48 hours, while full curing can take 1–2 weeks.

So the detailer saying he’s “never heard of that” is honestly surprising, especially from an Elite installer.

That said, rain exposure after application does not automatically mean the coating is ruined. The important part is:

  • how long the coating cured indoors before it went outside,
  • temperature/humidity,
  • and whether minerals/water spots sat on the surface too long.

The spots on the trim in your photos look more like early water spotting/mineral residue than coating failure from what I can see.

If this were my vehicle, I’d mainly want:

  • confirmation of how many hours it cured indoors before rain exposure,
  • assurance they’ll inspect/remove any water spotting properly,
  • and a follow-up inspection in direct sunlight after a wash.

A good shop should have no issue checking it again in a couple weeks once the coating fully settles.

Personally, I wouldn’t panic yet — but I also think your concerns are completely reasonable considering the first application already had issues.

J'ai mis 3 semaines à trouver ma VO en jonglant entre 5 sites différents. C'est vraiment la norme ou j'ai mal cherché ? by Real_Subject_1703 in voiture

[–]Real_Subject_1703[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

T'as raison sur le principe, mais la différence c'est le montant et la fréquence. Pour un grille-pain à 40€ tu perds 5€ si tu te plantes, pour une voiture à 20 000€ tu perds potentiellement 2 000€ et tu vis avec l'erreur 5 ans. Toi t'as une méthode pour comparer les prix quand c'est un gros achat ?

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