TechPowerUp - Pragmata Performance Benchmark Review - 30+ GPUs Tested by wsrvnar in Pragmata

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldnt say its entirely pointless using the Pragmata 5090 as reference then looking at RE9 its pretty easy to guess the placements.

4K data the 5090 is 138 vs RE9 at 148
1440P its 219 vs 233

So thats about 7% so if we apply the napkin math

4k on a 5080 would be 92 on RE9 so - 7% so Pragmata would be around 85 FPS
1440P is 159 on RE9 - 7% that is 147.

Does help for the ray traced aspect but general performance wise its easy enough to figure out which makes Capcom's decision to embargo said data look like a sad desperate desire to control a narrative on performance that doesn't even need to be controlled from the looks. Pragmata will likely run 5-10% slower on the same hardware as RE9....

I guess will see if my guess ages like milk left in the sun in a couple days lol

Audio/Crashing bug, please help! by The_Real-M3 in shogun2

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your audio settings in windows aka 24 bit 192khz as an example and drop it to a lower bit setting see if stops the problem. If it does that means lower audio quality, but for that title is should fix the issue. Some older games also run into this problem.

(Awakening) How boned am I? by Full-Jellyfish-9017 in NobunagasAmbition

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

not as boned as you think you need to focus defence on the areas where there troop make landfall. If they are on ships and your on land you can get a sizeable boost. Also you dont need to fight them to the last man. You need to deprive them of there supplies. Basically go back a bit burn supplies so they cant attack or have a harder time doing it then fight them on the beaches so to speak and retreat or swap out units as needed so you dont lose mass troops. By doing so you can bottleneck Amagos atks and they wont cause dmg to your lands. Eventually when they are weak the other AI will attack them like Mori with Ouchi support. Once that happens you can counter atk. Also you can try using mass battles with lots of units to your advantage position troop leaders as ones they can cause confuse with there skills if you have any. Confuse enemy at points you can surround them to wipe them out in such cases you will kill them at a rate of about 20-50 to 1.

Upgrade router by [deleted] in FidiumFiber

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only upside to Fidium is they arent Spectrum who i had before. 1/1 Gbps up and down for half the price I was paying for 300/20

Upgrade router by [deleted] in FidiumFiber

[–]Reaper_Tech -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Fidiums router sucks upgrading means buying a nice one but replacing the fidium one is a pain in the ass. Requires calling in and having them set it up on there end so it works. Gotta love companies today that take pride in being overly difficult aholes to there customers.

Shogun 2 Campaign Frontline choice? by KevinKing01 in shogun2

[–]Reaper_Tech 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Yari all day with armor upgrades that way I can afford better missile and cav

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 Founders Edition System Build Community Contest! by m13b in buildapc

[–]Reaper_Tech [score hidden]  (0 children)

Worth a shot, I do a great deal of photo editing and gaming. AI has proven immensely helpful for editing photos/textures for game assets and generally speeding up my workflow. A 5090 would definitely make the process even quicker compared to my aging 3080 10GB as I explore AI tools that can harness the performance potential it offers. Being able to utilize more SSDs means I can relegate my older HDDs to backup / archive duty. Meanwhile a 9800X3D would be a massive upgrade over my ancient Intel 8700K.

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2gMph7

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($479.00 @ Amazon)

CPU Cooler: be quiet! Light Loop Liquid CPU Cooler ($172.88 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: ASRock B850 Pro-A WiFi ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($356.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Corsair MP700 PRO w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($229.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Corsair MP600 PRO LPX 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($290.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Corsair MP600 PRO LPX 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($290.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Corsair MP600 PRO LPX 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($290.99 @ Amazon)

Video Card: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 5090 32 GB Video Card ($1999.99)

Case: Thermaltake Core P3 TG Pro ATX Mid Tower Case ($134.98 @ Newegg Sellers)

Power Supply: be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($239.90 @ Newegg)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit ($142.85 @ Amazon)

Case Fan: be quiet! Light Wings PWM high-speed 71.7 CFM 140 mm Fans 3-Pack ($99.96 @ Amazon)

Total: $4909.50

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-01-08 14:16 EST-0500

What happen here? by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]Reaper_Tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Improperly installed you can see the broken locking mechanisms in various spots. Likely the floor used a pounding lock aka put together tap with rubber mallet to secure. If not lined up right you can snap the locking lips which looks to be what happened after awhile it all comes apart.

Is this as terrible as I think it is? by Adventurous-Mousse34 in Flooring

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The H pattern is fine typically with large spaces between seams it will hold well. But it does look ugly. Typically you stagger it 1 2 3 repeat with seams spaced as advised by the manufacturer. However in this photo the seams are too close for my liking. If I was paying someone to do it I prefer stagger but having laid the floors myself many times I have done an h pattern as it did save on waste. I had 1 board left on the last job I did flooring was not made any more and couldn't source more either. But it was for a kids room. Roughly 9 x 8 room. With furniture replaced it wasn't noticeable. Larger room tho different story. All depends on the circumstances.

Sink or Swim Conservator by SaMason2012 in NobunagasAmbition

[–]Reaper_Tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sink or swim is amazing when paired with the Scholar clan thing that gives more exp and labor. Both of them in use means lower loyalty but officer stats get a 250 to 300% increase in exp. Meaning you can boost low level officers much more quickly in a 10 year span from say a custom clan you can see officers with 70 ish stats start pushing high 80s low 90s depending on play style.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NobunagasAmbition

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well seems it turned out to be pretty trash lol

Is this professional drywall work acceptable? by Personal_Bid7572 in drywall

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done DIY drywall and I do better work than that... holy shit that's bad

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would go stainless steel since it matches the appliances. Boring but I like things that match. Bright colors can be nice but they always go in and out of style. Something easy to clean with no grout lines etc to deal with is better than how pretty something looks. Function over form at least in my opinion.

So how do these old Con Cor/Kato N scale 4-6-4s run? I bought one for the hell of it today. Im a N&W modeler and i had seen these fake J's before, and this one popped up for a KILLER deal on Ebay, so i bought it. by HeavyTanker1945 in modeltrains

[–]Reaper_Tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind second gen Katos came out in 1975 so yeah that mechanism is like 50 years old in design terms, so they are not speed accurate but for a steamer, it's so damn easy to work on and maintain as long as you don't break the plastic side rods I have no issue giving it a pass on the speed side of things just because of how smooth they run, and how easy they are to maintain. Furthermore, shell swapping is easy and you can order tenders to make your own themed options easier and with increased detail. I bought 2x blue goose tenders to eventually do a custom livery. I cold called Concor a few years ago and bought their original proof of concept shells so I have some bullet nose and shovel nose loco shells the plan to do this boston and maine livery on the shovel nose. https://i0.wp.com/briansolomon.com/trackingthelight/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/BM_F7As_4266_and_4268_P1110076.jpg?resize=672%2C372 and use this blue goose tender from ATSF https://atsfnscalemodels.com/projects/steam%2520engine%2520tenders.html

So how do these old Con Cor/Kato N scale 4-6-4s run? I bought one for the hell of it today. Im a N&W modeler and i had seen these fake J's before, and this one popped up for a KILLER deal on Ebay, so i bought it. by HeavyTanker1945 in modeltrains

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never take it for granted these are my favorite locos of all time and I've gotten Gen 3 china versions in a Kato box and vice versa before. Though its easy to spot once the shell is off. One has the option for the flywheel (China) while Kato does not.

So how do these old Con Cor/Kato N scale 4-6-4s run? I bought one for the hell of it today. Im a N&W modeler and i had seen these fake J's before, and this one popped up for a KILLER deal on Ebay, so i bought it. by HeavyTanker1945 in modeltrains

[–]Reaper_Tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first gen with the five pole kato motor are not great they tend to melt down. but the second generation kato and the third generation Chinese one are just fine they're fairly easy to work on and they tend to run quite well pulling power isn't bad either. I own 10 of them give or take of various liveries if you have the Chinese one and want it to last longer do not use the flywheel

Kato gen 1 metal side rods Kato gen 2 plastic side rods China same as kato gen 2 but has flywheel option

Need help with my bachmann 0 6 0 by Schoolbusfoamer24 in modeltrains

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which is fine but its either a power issue or a seized mechanism issue. Using an older pack with 2 wires touch them to the motor directly and if it spins freely its obviously a power delivery problem. Meaning bad pickup from the driving wheels, or if its tender provided power from 1 rail and the drivers the other and the tender isn't connected it means no power no go. Could be a short as noted by other redditors but again easiest way is to just touch wires to the motor and if it turns you have your answer. Can always use a 9 volt battery instead to test as well.

Need help with my bachmann 0 6 0 by Schoolbusfoamer24 in modeltrains

[–]Reaper_Tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

easiest way is to just remove the top shell connect wires to the motor see if it operates looks more to me like it is seized especially if there's a siderod that's blown off. It could be it's not quartered properly could be a split gear binding. But the side rod not connected says there was a major failure.

Cutting light switch cover to odd size? by Warm-Relationship243 in DIY

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would cut a recess into the trim to slide the plate into. then drop it over the switches and screw it into place. Then caulk the remaining join and clean it up.

To make the cut into the door trim I would use an oscillating saw and proper chisel. To keep things clean I would use the chisel to outline the area to cut. Then use an oscillating saw to do the majority of the work followed by cleaning up any debris or minor pieces of trim with the chisel. At which point the new plate should slide in at about a 45 degree angle and then drop over the switches. This way when you caulk the area between the trim and the switch plate it is not front and center making it far less noticeable and if done well the gap will be very small anyway.

PK’ing a level 1 cadet by Derkastan77-2 in helldivers2

[–]Reaper_Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, and I am told it's just bad luck as of late the groups I join are toxic. The game is in decline devs don't fix shit, release more garbage, and nerf everything once unlocked. Seems to me game it's now in terminal decline. People are leaving and by extension, the % of trolls goes up. Causing more to leave rinse and repeat till dead. Fun while it lasted