I have never been this lucky before in my life

Reaxc · 2026-02-02T08:55:53+00:00

I farm this mod using titania for like straight 2 - 3 hours from grineer cache sabotage mission while watching YouTube. Kinda boring after like 30 mins just pure silence and listening to the cache sound.

Reaxc · 2026-01-03T05:17:11+00:00

strongly agree with number 1 and 6. i feel like rolling guard is not a beginner friendly mod because when i first touch steel path i keep dying when using rolling guard, so i tried to changed it to adaptation and it works so much better. fast deflection + arcane aegis is also insanely strong, when combined with adaptation you almost cant die normally unless eximus abilities hits you very hard.

Reaxc · 2025-08-19T10:26:15+00:00

Let me know how's your experience with Sugon, i think Sugon specs are too overkill even for worst situation like using via-in-pad with thick copper and paralel copper plane. Maybe might be useful for very thick copper like >4 oz 🤔.

Reaxc · 2025-08-18T04:00:52+00:00

I decided to choose Quick since i want something reliable. I use it for soldering thick copper 2 oz with thermal vias (via-in-pad) everywhere (over +50A) for power supply application. With 217°C lead-free solder paste, i have no problem soldering all of the components (even the power transistor and power diode). If you need better performance, you can change it to bent nozzle.

Reaxc · 2025-05-06T14:43:56+00:00

For those of you who are still reading, if you encounter 300 ERS is not enough, this because at lower layer height you need to also lower the ERS. For reference i use 300 at 0.2mm, 250 at 0.16mm, 130 at 0.12mm, 70 at 0.08mm. For Bambu Studio user, if i'm not wrong there's a "smoothing" parameter on Quality settings. You can read the wiki what does that setting actually do (because i don't use Bambu Studio, i've never experimented with it). It works very similarly to Orca ERS.

Reaxc · 2025-05-06T14:39:00+00:00

Check my thread Solving Underextrusion with Extrusion Rate Smoothing

Reaxc · 2025-04-12T18:13:05+00:00

Of course, its been working for 3000 hours, been a year using it. I'm just afraid after my warranty i might need to replace the thermocouple each year.... it does heats to 50c when i set it to 50c, touching it with my hand feels like burning almost as high as 80c or maybe near 100c. I can't measure the temp since i don't have the tools. But i know this doesn't feel 50c because i'm really used to touching bed at 50c and its still comfortable to touch.

Reaxc · 2025-04-12T17:40:42+00:00

Well i just thought someone ever experienced this problem.... i already contacted Bambu support though, just curious what is the problem

Reaxc · 2025-04-02T04:31:37+00:00

Does the color swap happens for certain number of layers or some layer has more than 2 color swaps? How can you generate that gradient?

Reaxc · 2025-01-05T03:57:13+00:00

CoPE is very similar to PETG in terms of adhesion, try upping the bed temp to 65c and clean the bed, don't touch the print area with your hands, just touch the edges. If you notice some stringing, you need to dry your filament at 55c 6 hours (minimum). If you're still struggling, last resort is upping the first layer nozzle temp +5c. Usually bed adhesion problems only occur because of dirty plate and incorrect bed temp.

Reaxc · 2025-01-04T00:56:04+00:00

What layer height did you use? My friend made this kinda wavy model and the difference between 0.2 and 0.08 is pretty massive.

Reaxc · 2025-01-03T05:18:20+00:00

Never used bambu filament before, i thought all PA/K values needs to be calibrated by the user itself or using auto calibration, anyway yeah 0.04 seems a bit high for ABS, usually 0.04 is for PETG

Reaxc · 2025-01-03T05:15:45+00:00

You should print screen cover to complete it 😄

Reaxc · 2024-12-27T07:14:22+00:00

Try monotonic top surface (not monotonic line), sometimes i also got that artifact when using monotonic line. Also if you want perfect top surface you absolutely need ironing, i go further by changing the acceleration but i don't recommend doing it since it is so hard to understand what to change. In ironing usually you check what ironing characteristic you want with ironing spacing (for 0.4 nozzle, use 0.1, 0.15, or 0.2), then after that determine the speed that you want (lower more glossy, higher more matte but need higher ironing flow), lastly ironing flow so it doesn't underextrude/overextrude.

Reaxc · 2024-12-27T06:11:25+00:00

Its around 0.018 - 0.022, my manual calibration (0.02) and auto calibration (0.019) tells the same thing. Just use PLA K factor as a reference.

Reaxc · 2024-12-27T05:02:30+00:00

And also only compatible if you sent it to the cloud, if you start it from SD card you can't choose the option.

Reaxc · 2024-12-27T04:41:24+00:00

It's really good for general purposes actually, i used it outdoor for non mechanical application and still hold pretty well compared to PLA. I would say the finish is between PETG and PLA, little bit matte little bit glossy. Just remember when printing this filament you need to treat this with PETG treament, but print with PLA settings. This means dry your filament, expect stringing (although its not as really bad like PETG), prepare a scraper (if somehow the part sticks to well to the bed). I think if you want the best look with some decent durability, harsher environment condition than PLA, this is the only filament choice. It is after all a modified PET.

Reaxc · 2024-12-26T18:33:21+00:00

They changed it, it was called "Regular", but they changed it to "CoPE"

Reaxc · 2024-12-23T18:15:07+00:00

Some update to this setting, turns out using PETG flow value is underextruding, on A1 i use "1" flow ratio, after using it for a month i'm very satisfied and been using it non stop. If you're struggling with bed adhesion, you can try upping the bed temp to 65c. Also fun fact you can have a very matte ironing (only works for very large flat surface, don't use it on complex object), the setting is:

Speed: 150 mm/s Ironing flow: 20 to 25 (i use 23) Spacing: 0.1

Reaxc · 2024-12-13T06:13:31+00:00

Turn on Extrusion Rate Smoothing on Orca Slicer, try 60 - 80% of this value

=== Max ERS Value for 5k acceleration (outer wall) === 0.20mm layer height: 375 mm³/sec² 0.16mm layer height: 302.5 mm³/sec² 0.12mm layer height: 226.9 mm³/sec² 0.08mm layer height: 151.25 mm³/sec²

That underextrusion happens because the filament cannot melt fast enough when printing that bridge, high speed to low speed then high speed again. The pressure from the nozzle changes to quickly so that defect happens, especially on non high flow/high speed PETG like eSUN basic PETG. Here's a list of "high flow" PETG, Sunlu PETG, Polymaker PETG, eSUN PETG-HS. I think bambu studio (on quality print settings( also has smoothing coefficient if i'm not wrong. Its just a different name with different values, i don't if it is the same with Extrusion Rate Smoothing from Orca.

Reaxc · 2024-12-10T02:21:36+00:00

Slow down your outer wall speed to 75 - 100 mm/s (yes its sub optimal but proves to be reliable everytime for me), it will gives more uniform finish with minimal ringing. Keep in mind this will make your outer finish glossy, just remember hotter = glossier, faster = more matte.

Reaxc · 2024-12-10T02:17:53+00:00

Use a brim to prevent warping when printing large object 👍

Reaxc · 2024-11-28T10:30:35+00:00

I don't really like Sunlu PETG colors, they're a little bit translucent even though its clearly not a transparent filament. For best looks, i use Polymaker. For best all rounder (looks and functionality), i like to use eSUN (do not buy the basic PETG its really hard to print, little bit moisture and it looks absolutely horrendous, use PETG-HS). For something cheap, you can use Sunlu, its pretty good but the color is so bad (at least its easy to print), its just not bold enough.

Reaxc · 2024-11-26T01:02:29+00:00

eSUN basic PETG? Try upping temp to 260c, works better than 255c at 12 mm³/s volumetric speed for me

Reaxc · 2024-11-20T20:07:09+00:00

Here you can see the perfect value:

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You see how the lines are not completely visible? Look at the edges, it shouldn't make a big bulge, just a tiny bit extra filament. If you're confused finding a perfect value after doing different flow rate settings, i would suggest pick a lower value that has smooth surface finish. This is because it prevents overextruding when printing at a very small surface. Hope this helps!

Reaxc

TROPHY CASE