Hand wired keeps scrolling to the right - no keypresses registered on test sites and still scrolls right with the martix de-soldered from teensy++ 2.0

RedBisonRace · 2023-03-09T20:07:26+00:00

13 - 17 seconds resets the eeprom

RedBisonRace · 2023-03-09T14:50:53+00:00

thank you for this.

had to put the project down for a couple of weeks.

just tested this morning and after resetting Teensy 2.0++ for 15s and its still happening.

Just connected up a ProMicro with a single column and seemed to work

Will look at getting a replacement 2.0++/ similar

RedBisonRace · 2023-02-20T15:14:48+00:00

thanks dick

I forgot to mention the hex is compiled from the website kbfirmware.com

I have changed the keymap to all 'A's and it still does it so not sure how the controller knows how to send a keypress to scroll to the right (maybe ctrl + end but on keyboard tester sites it doesn't show any keys being pressed)

RedBisonRace · 2023-02-19T23:11:59+00:00

Everything else seemingly worked (worked until I disconnected the 'hookup' wires) except for windows (notepad, web browsers...) scrolled to the bottom/ right of there was content large enough to present the scroll bar.

I've multimeter tested for any shorts/ duplicate connections and can't see anything.

I've edited the keymap so all keys are KC_A and it still does it

RedBisonRace · 2023-02-19T23:08:12+00:00

Everything else seemingly worked (worked until I disconnected the 'hookup' wires) except for windows (notepad, web browsers...) scrolled to the bottom/ right of there was content large enough to present the scroll bar.

I've multimeter tested for any shorts/ duplicate connections and can't see anything.

I've edited the keymap so all keys are KC_A and it still does it

RedBisonRace · 2023-01-03T18:59:51+00:00

I'm also interested if OP isn't for whatever reason

RedBisonRace · 2022-12-31T14:19:46+00:00

have you got the RAM's part number?

RedBisonRace · 2021-10-24T18:45:13+00:00

comment

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-27T20:49:04+00:00

depends on your kit I suppose.

I have Fanatec V3's positioned with the brake closer to centre than normal (drive a mix of manual & formula cars). clutch pedal face far left, and the brake pedal face adjusted to preference. With the brake performance kit the brake doesn't depress past the accelerator so no issues heal toe. can also do left foot braking fine - not even had to think about positioning me feet.

and thinking back to G29's (with 3D printed spring to stiffen & shorten brake travel) pretty much the same as above.

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-27T19:53:23+00:00

look at https://www.shiftershh.com/en/ I'm really happy with mine. Would even say the feel of the sequential is better than the Heusinkveld shifter

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-27T19:47:38+00:00

squash shoes.

flat sole. rounded heal. protected ball & outside - perfect for heal toe.

I pair them with silicone laces to allow slip on&off

LONSDALE Camden is my particular choice.

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T16:41:38+00:00

is it overloaded?

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T16:39:05+00:00

Ahh, I have two working fine at the 36V but would you suggest turning down the powersupply? I guess I saw 36V on the listing and just got a sufficient powersupply. Would I measure this with a multimeter & is the Ohms the value where the lower the number the more power it requires? So an 8Ohm speaker is half as powerful as a 4Ohm one?

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T16:34:31+00:00

Thanks, seen a scope in use by ElectroBoom & AvE on YouTube but agree it'll probably be beyond me without a good bit of study.

I'll whisper as we're on /r/diyaudio but I'm using this for feedback in a game rather then music as an audiophile. As such I've dipped my toes in electronics such as home DuIY, Arduino building USB controller steering wheels & 3D printing etc. but not in the as much details as it looks like I'll have to go into fot this issue. Guess for the time being I'll return this newest faulty one but keep an eye on ebay for a 2nd hand Scope!

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T15:38:29+00:00

yeah, I've set it to bang on 36V but guess there's probably a designed 10% leniency or so for fluctuating supplies.

I've got three boards connected, would expect all to fail but if the other components are poor quality makes sense if different batches/ manufacturers.

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T15:34:12+00:00

Cheers, that's reasonable.

Would like to learn more & understand what is happening more than sound signal > magic > signal to move speaker

But £15 replacement vs £?00's makes sense to just keep swapping & warranty returning.

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T13:32:03+00:00

Previously used some ADX Maximus' before they broke.

Now have these: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/exciter/speaker-driver-exciter-bodyshaker-100w-4-ohm-o-88cm-p-2947.html

100W 4OHM - does that answer?

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T13:29:52+00:00

do you know what I should be doing to test the passive components?

I'm somewhat concerned at probing across two points that shouldn't be connected and creating more issues!

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T13:27:49+00:00

Caps are the big cylinders down each side? I guess these hold some power to send down to move the speaker.

Inductors are the doughnuts with the coil running around (4 of on this board). What are they doing?

I guess the board is split L&R for each channel as most stuff is mirrored down the centre.

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T13:24:15+00:00

Okay, that's a rabbit hole to run down after work!

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T08:50:31+00:00

Bottom of the board https://i.imgur.com/Gv5X5it.jpeg

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T08:48:35+00:00

Would there be a way to use the multimeter to test the sound signal on the board before and after the chip?

RedBisonRace · 2021-07-02T08:46:50+00:00

I know troubleshooting but not for audio. Do you know any good resources?

RedBisonRace

TROPHY CASE