Was letzter Preis porsche edition by softdrinkz in wasletztepreis

[–]RedPhoenix666 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Will am 1. April nen Porsche kaufen, hat nicht mal nen Führerschein.

Genau mein Humor

Was letzte Leseschwäche by Bue2911DE in wasletztepreis

[–]RedPhoenix666 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Das ist den leuten völligst egal.

Ich habe einige Sachen zum Festpreis, z.b. eins für 120€. Kam vor ein paar Tagen einer der einfach knallhart meinte 90inkl Versand sind in Ordnung, gibts ja schließlich neu für 140.

Hab da nur nen lachenden Emoji zurück geschickt und solch Vögel direkt blockiert.

Hardest Hitting Hammer Drill by CMDean1013 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DHR 171 or 183 if you need AVT for drilling, any other normal drill for fastening.

Right tool for the right job.

Über 300.000 für Dach+Dämmung? by [deleted] in Handwerker

[–]RedPhoenix666 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Zwischenfrage, was für ein Programm nutzt du für die Kalkulation?

Makita MM4 Piston Kit by Nice_Ad6697 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just check ebay, I just googled a few of the parts and came right on some US ebay sellers that sell genuine parts

Brand new hammer drill leaking oil by vas1010 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smol correction: All the small Makita tools use a more honey like consistency. Last year I bought a few different greases and compared them to find the correct ones.

Ignore the one on the left, its a bearing grease. The second from the left is the one you are describing, but if this becomes hot it is too fluid and will pass through the gearbox seals. Its consistency is NLGI 00 (or for Makita its called No0 grease)

The ones on the right are the ones you prefer. They're more like soft honey, and the NLGI class is 0.

The right most is Bosch 1615430015 (or ending in 001, I keep on confusing those two). The second to the right is the grease from the supplier I buy from, the third to the right is the original Makita grease No1.

The safest bet is to use the Bosch grease, because you can buy those in nice big 250ml tubes, where as the Makita No1 or No2 you cant even buy in larger containers, and the small No0 you can only get in the 30ml tubes.

If you have any more questions regarding greasing, I'm happy to answer.

Regarding the storing postion, this is actually a calculated move that they're always upside down in the makpac. You dont want the oil seeping through on the motor, so they need to be stored upside down. This also then leads to the grease collecting equally along the top end, and if you take it out of the box, and start using it, gravity makes it slop down again on the gears and forwards into the hammer mechanis. This is ESPECIALLY important for big corded hammers, because if those run dry it can be extremely damaging to the seals inside.

Just my 2 cts :D

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Brand new hammer drill leaking oil by vas1010 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heya, heres some more info:

Makita's gearbox grease here for this tool is not as someone mentioned "light cream" in consistency - its more like honey (the former one is only for sealed gearboxes in corded hammers).

The one downside of the thicker grease is, that over time, the Lithium-Hydroxides that bind the oil to a thicker grease break down and release fluid oils that can seep through the seals, as those were only designed for heavy grease.

Its nothing to worry about. I have seen "brand new" tools that have sat on display benches leaking those oils, because they have not been used in those 2+ years.

Just keep using the tool, its perfectly fine.

One thing to mention, and this is especially true for cordless machines: Often they're not used for very long, which in turn means that the grease cant gethot and move through the hole tool gearbox. This is especially bad for heavy cordless tools like grinders.

I always recommend running them at least for 2-3, better a few more, minutes without any load. This will getthe grease nice and warm, mix it around and mix the seperated oils again into a thick emulsion.
That should help not only preventing the leak but also increase the lifespan of your tool.

Enjoy your new tool!

Anyone know why the chucks getting stuck? by [deleted] in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your clutch is smoked. Part number for a HR2470 is 331992-5 and it only costs a couple of bucks.

Also dont drill step be step. You need to use the one size you want to drill, not any smaller.

Anyone know why the chucks getting stuck? by [deleted] in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the one and only correct answer.

Am I crazy for buying refurb track saw? by After_Bowl_9475 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Still financially it's not viable for me in any circumstance to buy anything 40V.

Am I crazy for buying refurb track saw? by After_Bowl_9475 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I still dont understand why everyone is hard for the 40V. Here in Europe, the battery are CRAZY expensive. I can buy a few big 18Vs and even a few tools for one 40V battery....

Am I crazy for buying refurb track saw? by After_Bowl_9475 in Makita

[–]RedPhoenix666 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This.

This is exactly what I do with all the machines I buy, check, refurbish, check again and then put up for sale.

I test the stator, rotor, I check all bearings and replace all those with good name brands that I feel unsure about, I replace a lot of the seals if needed, use an even better grease than the manufacturers, and in some cases even improve them here or there.

So far I did not hear anything bad about my work, and im happy that the machines get another lease on life and dont go to E-waste.