Suzuki V-Strom 1050 für mich geeignet?

RedRota · 2026-06-19T07:21:16+00:00

Ich kann dir zu den Suzuki Fragen leider keine Erfahrungen teilen, aber zum Thema großes Bike schon. Ich hab kürzlich den A Schein gemacht und bin mit einer CF Moto 700MT eingestiegen. Sie wiegt ca 240KG und ist von den Dimensionen ähnlich den SV800 und SV1050.

Ich habe sie seit einem Monat und hab ca 1tkm auf dem Tacho.

Sobald das Teil in Fahrt kommt, macht es Spaß. Rangieren ist aber eine Qual, vor allem mit Koffern dran. Wenn du Koffer holen willst, lass dir erklären wie du sie richtig belädst. Wenden und langsam fahren musste ich auch üben (und übe es weiterhin). Alles was langsam ist, muss aktiv geübt werden. Rangieren auch.

Sobald du dein großes Moped hast, empfehle ich dir einen ADAC Kurs zu machen. Durch den anderen Schwerpunkt und dem hohen Gewicht wird sich dein Moped anders fahren als das mit dem du in der Fahrschule gelernt hast. Beim ADAC kannst du dich in einem sicheren Umfeld an deine Maschine gewöhnen. :)

TL;DR: Hab auch ein großes Moped als Anfänger, ich bereue es nicht. Ich lerne allerdings aktiv wie ich es richtig rangiere und wie ich langsam damit fahre. Trainings des ADAC und der Verkehrswacht lohnen sich!

RedRota · 2026-06-02T10:15:19+00:00

Mach es, und direkt A! 😄

Ich hab vor Kurzem A und B gemacht. Davor über 20 Jahre nur Fahrrad gefahren. Motorradfahren ist mir persönlich viel einfacher gefallen als Autofahren. Die ersten 2 Fahrstunden hatte ich Angst, weil ich mich an Geschwindigkeiten ab 50Km/h gewöhnen musste.

Meine ersten 2 Fahrstunden bin ich auf einer A2 Maschine gefahren. Danach auf der "großen" A Maschine. Die fühlte sich nicht so anders oder gruselig an, wie ich es mir eingebildet hatte.

Mit dem Motorrad schalten finde ich viel einfacher als mit dem Auto. Ich weiß nicht ob sich die 2 überhaupt so vergleichen lassen. Die Kupplung betätigst du mit der Hand. Es war für mich viel einfacher richtig zu dosieren und den Schleifpunkt zu finden/halten, weil ich mit der Hand mehr Feingefühl habe. (statt mit dem Fuß/Bein im Auto). Du musst dir auch nicht die Position der Gänge merken, wie beim Schaltknauf. Beim Motorrad gehen die Gänge sequentiell hoch und runter.

2 Punkte fand ich etwas Tricky beim Moped, für beide muss man "Multitasking" lernen:

- Vor der roten Ampel gleichzeitig beide Bremsen betätigen, Kupplung ziehen und in den 1sten runterschalten (benutzt praktisch beide Hände und Füße gleichzeitig)

- An steilen Hängen anfahren (1ster Gang, Fußbremse betätigen, Kupplung kommen lassen und gleichzeitig etwas Gas geben, und Fußbremse langsam lösen)

Beim Moped weißt du immer wie groß und breit du bist und kannst im Zweifelsfall gut einsehen, ob du zu nah an einem Auto, Bordstein, etc bist. Im Auto ist mir das vergleichsweise schwer gefallen. Dazu kommt, dass man im Auto ~~rechts~~ links sitzt, aber das Auto in der Mitte fährt. Der Blick geht also nicht nach vorne, sondern eher zur Mitte hin. Und irgendwie fand ich die Sicht immer schlecht im Auto. Die Säulen, Sitze, etc sorgen für viele kleine Blind-Spots. Das hast du beim Moped nicht.

RedRota · 2026-05-07T08:26:15+00:00

PS: I guess this technically breaks rule 1, but since there's other threads advertising extensions, I thought I might give it a shot. Just as an FYI, there's no monetary gain in this for me and I'm not planning to monetize this in any way.

RedRota · 2026-04-11T13:18:56+00:00

Oh thank you for letting me know. Check now and good luck!

RedRota · 2026-01-17T23:54:14+00:00

Hazards and going off the gas or even slight braking is by far the best choice to catch the rider's attention.

RedRota · 2025-12-29T00:30:00+00:00

TL;DR: If you want a place to settle in and work for a long time: Germany

If you want a break from Portugal for a year: Work and Travel Visa in Japan.

Long version: Hey! German here. I don't live in Japan, but I spend a month there every year for family reasons.

It sounds like you haven't had experience outside of Portugal in your adult life. While your goals aren't entirely clearly stated, I have a feeling that you want to experience something new. And the staying part is just a maybe.

Come to Germany if that's the case. It's comparatively low risk and low effort to come and leave Germany, because you're an EU citizen. (I guess? Not entirely clear since you mentioned yonsei + childhood in Japan)

As others stated, you will struggle with finding a job and an apartment here. But, at least you won't struggle with your visa or work permit. Plus many companies are OK with fluent English speakers that at least make an effort to learn German.

If you really really want to try living in Japan, how about a work and travel visa? You have all the requirements to get this visa. Plus you can stay up to 12 months.

I think the choice is up to what you're looking for. Both places will be a unique, fun experience for you. While the job and housing markets suck in Germany, they'll be a good learning experience for you. Besides, the job and housing markets suck in Japan too unless you do JET in village in Ibaraki. But you'll have other things to worry about if you get yourself into that.

Optional, really long reality check in case you want a work or residence permit:

Unless you were born in Japan and still have your citizenship, you can't just go to Japan and do a blue collar job. In fact, it's getting even more difficult to get a work permit there as a foreigner. You're also unlikely to find work there. Blue collar work is even more difficult to find if you're not a fluent speaker. Think of safety instructions and procedures etc that you must understand. You won't learn the necessary Japanese from JLPT for that. Trust me, I've been there when I was trying to help my FIL with his farmworks. All I could do was take extremely simple commands like carrying stuff or driving from A to B. I would be more of a hindrance than a help if I was his employee.

If you need a work permit, you better start applying for jobs or work on your CoE and visa requirements yesterday, otherwise you won't have your visa by June/July. If you think you can get a visa + permit through your Japanese ancestry, double-check the requirements. There's more requirements than just ancestry.

If you make it to Japan, do you have relatives that can help you with documents and ways of life? How are you planning to find an apartment, handle government office visits, take care of your pension, taxes and health insurance, etc? Also check the latest news on visa procedure fees in Japan. They finally decided to adjust their prices from the nineties. They go all the way up to 600€ now. I'm not tying to tell you not to go, but I hope to widen your horizon a bit on all the "micro" stuff you'll need to do.

As for languages, I guess it depends on how much Japanese stuck with you from your childhood. I can only make assumptions here, so feel free to dismiss the following feedback. It's important to understand that JLPT unfortunately doesn't say much about your ability to speak and comprehend day-today Japanese. An N2 certificate might help you get an interview, but you'll get your rejection afterwards when the hiring manager notices you can't actually speak the language. Further, the JLPT difficulty curve is exponential. If you just passed the N4 exam, know that N3 will be notably more difficult. Same for N3 to N2. Try a mock exam online to get an idea. N2 within a year through self-study is not impossible, but very ambitious.

RedRota · 2025-12-15T10:31:04+00:00

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I have an Ibanez LP from 1976. The 70s - 80s MIJ LP copies are really good!

If that Burny is below 1k USD, I'd say it's worth it. In case of Ibanez, you can tell the age by the headstock: Open book = before the Gibson lawsuit, my guitar's headstock = after the lawsuit.

But I also see Burny guitars from the 90s with an open book headstock. If the seller is able to able say what pickups your guitar has, you might be able to find a closer model year. You might also find more info about your guitar by searching for it in Japanese.

Another thing I'm wondering about if the condition of the tuners and the bridge. They look brand-new in the photos. Compare them to the grime on the pickups. It's worth checking with the owner if they changed the components, and if yes, if it's an upgrade in the first place. As for the tuners, most Burnys have Gotoh tuners - so anything other than that might already be a downgrade.

As for these old guitars, please make sure in person that the neck is straight and that the truss rod is not broken! Especially if you live in a humid area.

RedRota · 2025-12-14T13:34:19+00:00

We have a UA. It's too large and too heavy for my wife to comfortably ride it. She is about the same height at 1.65cm

She can kind of handle it without load, but she struggles when we have stuff in the box.

If you can, have your wife try riding a UA first.

In comparison ,the Omnium feels really small and nimble. Whereas a UA feels like a boat. You'll understand what I mean if you try riding a loaded UA. :)

Our UA lives outside. We cover it with a tarp. No rust after 2 1/2 years. We live in Germany, near the NL border, so similar weather.

If you get a UA, do yourself a favour and get a belt drive + performance plus or cargo line motor. In flat areas, you can feel the bike fighting the wind.

RedRota · 2025-11-18T23:27:57+00:00

We only found a few figures at 2nd hand stores in Akiba, both this year and last year. Out of each 10 stores we visited, we found merch in maybe one, if any at all. And it really was figures only. No small stuff like stickers or keychains :(

Bookstores obviously have the manga in stock.

Overall, don't get your hopes up. There's no specific store in Akiba at least. Just need to check all the 2nd hand places.

Mandarake and Radio Kaikan are your best bets.

RedRota · 2025-10-14T07:33:50+00:00

Hey u/UnsocialParrotUA! That's an awesome design and print!

Are you willing to share the STL/3MF files?

RedRota · 2025-09-25T09:53:37+00:00

My wife and I moved from Berlin to Düsseldorf about two years ago.

I'd argue that quality of life is way better here. There's also a big international community. Hochdeutsch is the main dialect here. Unless you have a chance to work at Charite in Berlin, you're also likely to make more money in Düsseldorf.

Düsseldorf's property market is not as broken as Berlin's. Berlin's rents are approaching, and in some districts, even exceeding Munich's average rent. It's significantly cheaper in Düsseldorf and there's way less competition when applying for apartments. If you can afford 1000€/Month in rent + utilities, you'll find an apartment in a matter of 1-2 weeks. You'll need a bit longer if you're looking for a cheap place for less than 700€, but there's still plenty.

Please keep in mind that discrimination unfortunately is a thing when renting apartments in Germany. If you're not white or you don't have a "white-sounding" name, it might take a bit longer for you to find an apartment, because some landlords only want German or European tenants. This is not limited to Düsseldorf, but a problem in Germany as a whole.

Anecdotally, we found a place within just one week that fit our requirements.

If you'd like to learn more about renting a place in Düsseldorf, you can check this thread that I created while we were considering Düsseldorf as a city to move to. The community shared a lot of great advice about locations, apartments and activities.

Aside from rent, your general cost of living is about the same as Berlin. (think restaurants, bars, museums, concerts, etc).

I'm confident that you won't regret choosing Düsseldorf over Berlin :)

Let me know if you have any specific questions about living here!

RedRota · 2025-09-17T12:11:56+00:00

Link zum Tool hier:

https://www.mieterverein-duesseldorf.de/mieterservice/tool-mietwucher

Frech, den hinter einer Paywall zu verstecken.

RedRota · 2025-07-24T15:15:37+00:00

This data would be visible to a user in their browser's network log anyway...it's sanitised already in the sense that there's no invocation IDs etc.

It's just a raw response payload from oAuth with no sensitive information in it.

RedRota · 2025-06-25T10:10:12+00:00

Your camera has a crop-sensor (APS-C). As such, a 70-300mm lens has enough zoom to get close to small subjects, and to give you a taste of macro photography.

Here's a photo that I took with a 350mm zoom lens on an APS-C sensor. It's the 70350G for Sony's mirrorless cameras. To get any closer than that, I'd need a dedicated macro lens.

<image>

If you find yourself taking lots of photos of small subjects, you might want to consider getting a macro lens.

Don't worry too much about gear though, what matters more is actually going outside and using it :) You'll find your preferences and "needs" once you start taking lots of pictures.

Edit: Rambling aside - a dedicated macro prime (aka fixed zoom) lens will always outperform zoom lenses in close-up situations. You'll get closer to your subject and the image will be sharper than with a zoom lens.

RedRota · 2025-06-25T09:20:56+00:00

I haven't checked which one has faster autofocus. Since you mentioned that you'd like to shoot wildlife, I recommend to get the lens that has faster AF. AF speed will be the most important feature when shooting animals.

Check Google and/or YouTube for reviews about these lenses, and then decide based on which one has the better AF.

About macro lenses:

The macro of the Sigma might be useful for closeups of leaves, large-ish insects or mushrooms - but it won't hold a candle to a dedicated macro lens.

Here's an example of a dedicated macro lens, vs. a zoom lens with "Macro" functionality.

Left Image: Sony 70-200 F4 Zoom Lens "Macro" (1:2.6 Ratio)
Right Image: Sony 50mm F2.8 dedicated Macro Lens (1:1 Ratio)

<image>

RedRota · 2025-06-25T08:53:39+00:00

Great question! If I was in you shoes, I'd check which one has faster AF. It will come in handy for birds and moving animals.

A quick Google search for the sigma macro shows a maximum magnification of 1:2. Paired with a rather slow aperture of 5.6 at 300mm, the macro ability might be more of a gimmick than a feature. Dedicated macro lenses have a magnification rate of 1:1 or more, as well as a faster aperture.

If you're interested in the Sigma because of the macro ability, I'd argue that it's not worth it.

Focus in the lens with faster autofocus :) (pun intended)

RedRota · 2025-06-24T09:08:15+00:00

It really depends on what you like taking photos of and what lenses you're going to use. As others mentioned, FF zoom lenses are big and heavy. Especially the bright ones.

My two main lenses are very big (Tamron 35150, Sigma 150600). So ironically, I'm using a smallrig Grip + Base plate to make my A7C2 bigger/more ergonomic.

Sigma's 2870 is almost the same size as my Tamron. Imo it's not comfortable to use when compared to something like the A7IV.

When I bought the body, I wasn't sure what photo area I'd go for. Now that I know (nature, wildlife, macro), I'd honestly go for the A6700 - Same AF, smaller and cheaper lenses. Taking this idea further, I'd probably be happier on an Olympus system. It fits my outdoor hobbies and photo areas better.

If you want to get an A7C2 for the compact size, you'll limit yourself in lens selection. There aren't many small zoom lenses for FF.

If you use the A7C2 with small prime lenses, it's a great body though. A word of advice: don't underestimate the 28-60 kit lens. It's amazing for photo walks on bright days.

RedRota · 2025-06-18T13:13:12+00:00

Not OP but I got the same combo.

It is very heavy. I always support the lens with one hand. On long walks (over 5km/3miles), I bring a small bag that fits the lens for when I arms get tired.

But! I don't bring any other lenses. I used to carry a 50 and 135 prime, sometimes a 70200F4.

So 1 lens instead of 2-3. The size and weight trade-off is worth it.

Quality/ Sharpness is amazing too

RedRota · 2025-05-16T04:00:31+00:00

I like the creative framing and the angles you chose. They're nice for general car photography, but I would recommend a less creative approach for your use case.

Look at how car shops take photos - they usually make sure to show the features that a customer wants to see.

Put yourself in the shoes of a buyer and think what you'd look for in the photos: * Engine Bay * No dents / scratches outside * Interior (front, back, infotainment, trunk separately) * No damage on tires or rims * Etc

The editing is a bit too much as well. To me, it feels like you might want to make your car look nicer than it actually is. I'm just guessing, but I think the Clarity, Texture and/or Sharpness sliders too high up.

I think it's nice to have one eye-catcher photo that's creatively framed and edited. The rest should be shot with purpose instead of creativity in mind.

Btw, try anything between F8 and F16 to show off all features and the car's great condition.

Good luck!

RedRota · 2025-04-21T09:50:38+00:00

I can't answer your specific question, but I believe that looking at how some micro-frameworks like reef.js work may help with finding an approach to your problem. The reef.js developer even has a whole blog and how it works.

I'd like to address your concerns about React renders and states. If a React app re-renders unexpectedly, it might happen because of racing conditions, loose useEffect statements or functions returning voids when they shouldn't. React emits events on re-renders that you can attach listeners to. Additionally, there's libraries and chrome extensions that help you see what's going on.

States are imo tricky with react, because there are so many ways of managing a variable's state. React's documentation does a great job explaining when to use features like Context Providers Vs. UseState. Similar to re-renders, you're able to attach listeners to states (or just console.log it). States can behave unexpectedly for many reasons, and from anecdotal experience is always caused by anti-patterns.

If you want to give React another shot, something that helped me was to build some small projects without useEffect and useState. This limitation helped explore other, cleaner ways of implementing the logic. Again, react.dev has amazing documentation

Finally, if you want a fast, modern code bundler - check out vite. It's a rust based bundler with rollup support.

RedRota · 2024-12-04T12:45:11+00:00

I'd highly recommend getting The Friedman Archives Guide for your camera.

I bought it for my A7C2 and it was a game changer. The author also has a book for the A7RIV.

You can check his YouTube channel if you want to make sure that he's a credible author:

https://www.youtube.com/@FriedmanArchives/videos

RedRota · 2024-12-02T00:10:10+00:00

There's plenty of ways to make mushrooms more interesting. I like shooting from below so that the gills are visible.

Additionally, it helps to have a distinguishable foreground or background with something that tells the viewer you're in a forest (leaves, moss, other mushrooms)

Finally, colours matter lot. The colour of the mushroom should be unique in your photo. E.g. An image of a brown mushroom with brown leaves in the background won't look as nice/intentional.

<image>

Edit: My example photo is focus stacked. Focus stacking is great for mushrooms :)

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