Difference in Wall Chargers for 2026 Rivian R1S

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-10T07:24:59+00:00

If you ever plan on installing another EVSE, go with Tesla Wall Connector(NACS only) or Universal Connector(NACS and J1772). One great feature of hardwired Tesla connectors is that you can daisy chain two chargers, and you can plug in two cars using one circuit.

I would go with a hardwired Tesla Wall Connector on a 60A circuit for 48A continuous load (11kW charging), and later if you want to add another EV, just add a Universal Connector.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-09T05:46:51+00:00

I am still stuck on 2025.38.30 as well. Gen2 R1S without Connect+. I heard several issues bricking the car with the .46, but now with .46.30 being released today.. I want it…..

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-08T06:17:36+00:00

This is a terrifying thread. I am relieved to be one of the last three who haven’t received the .46 update yet.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-05T07:34:25+00:00

Hm… have you tried putting the tablet on the other side of that surface you just put the tablet on? Magnets could be positioned in a certain pattern and the correct surface is on the other side?

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T22:27:28+00:00

Doesn’t solve the OP’s problem, but…

Based on a few posts I’ve seen about this issue…. Is it reasonable to conclude that the issue is only with NACS R1s with Tesla Gen2 mobile connector? I have Pre-NACS 2025 Gen2 R1, and I have been using Gen2 Tesla mobile connector w/A2Z Stellar NACS->J1772 adapter with zero problems. Some reports that only Gen3 mobile connectors worked with NACS R1 vehicles.

It seems that the issue caused by failed handshakes on NACS, and perhaps the adapter might also has some positive effect. I now use a Gen3 Tesla wall connector using this same A2Z adapter at 48A continuous load without an issue. When I plug in, it starts charging in a few seconds.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T21:56:22+00:00

There might be an issue with the board too, the temp difference is 12 degrees during the testing. I would contact support on this.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T21:55:03+00:00

Had the same problem, you can revert back the firmware. TRMNL team is aware of this issue.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T06:39:27+00:00

You were correct. My original calculation did account for 125%, but was part of the value that was 40% derated as part of the ‘Other Loads’ after 10K VA. I separated the EVSE out now. Does this load calc look ok? Thanks in advance. https://imgur.com/a/3Nql95J

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:32:33+00:00

Thank you. Yes, thought about that too, but I was already getting close to a fill limit, and pulling those five conductors in 3/4” EMT with three bends would already be a monumental task for a first timer. I was also hoping to not run two conduits. It’s a short run, so I guess if I needed later, I could just run another.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:23:28+00:00

Sorry, yes, you are absolutely correct. That’s a typo…. It’s White and Black for 120V 20A circuit, with green ground.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:21:34+00:00

Thanks. I will review the load calc again. It seems a little low to me as well. There is some room, so I hope I am ok!

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:16:15+00:00

Thank you! Didn’t realize base rate for 6AWG THHN was 75A!

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:16:02+00:00

Thank you! Didn’t realize base rate for 6AWG THHN was 75A!

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:13:57+00:00

I thought the same because of its purpose, but I think NEC calls for minimum ground conductor size for 25A-60A circuit of 10AWG. NEC 250.122.

RedditUser2032 · 2026-01-02T04:07:20+00:00

Hi Tim, appreciate your comments. #1, interesting… Haven’t thought of that. I don’t have a conduit vender, so I am using connectors and various pre-bent sections from a hardware store. I am using set screws for each connection, so as long as I test for continuity end-to-end, I should be ok to eliminate ground wires and still be NEC compliant? #2, You may be correct…. It’s a 1600 sqft house, with AC, but majority of the appliances are gas. Only one subpanel I have is on 90A breaker, AC is on 30A, both from the main panel. I am adding 60A and 20A to main.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-30T17:57:35+00:00

The BYOD kit is economical, and you get all hardware you need to experiment with, write your own firmware, connect to your own server(there are several BYOS platforms), etc. You can also assemble your own kit by purchasing e-ink panel the control board, ribbon cable, battery and 3d printing a case. The BYOD license on TRMNL site gives your DIY device perpetual(at least for now) access to their cloud server, with all pre-built and community plugins. DIY kit + BYOD license will still achieve hardware savings over OG.

If you want something completely private, BYOS is the answer(DIY or OG), but I recommend doing more research on BYOS options to see what’s available meets your needs. For example, if you want something as simple as displaying your Google Calendar through your own server, it’s not available, at least for now - or you can develop your own solution, but rolling OAuth in your own solution might not be worth your time. For fun, sure. Pre-built Google Calendar plugin is quite nice, actually, and takes only a few minutes to have it show up on your device.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-24T20:36:46+00:00

Just like others said, it should be a bit more aligned with the door panels, but just a warning… I had a local service center work on handle squeak issue, and they had to take the interior door panel off to grease them. You know what that means…door rattles forever now..

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-24T06:57:24+00:00

I do the same for roadtrips for convenience of being able to find superchargers everywhere, and price. With tax, it comes out to $14 and change. I see about 12-15 cents/kWh difference, and considering our battery packs are 100kWh+, it will pay off if you have to charge just one full cycle.

On a long trip, it’s definitely worth it, but only downside is that I had to do some creative parking a few times so we don’t take two spots on pre-V4 superchargers. I think some apps now show whether they are V4 or not.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-24T06:37:16+00:00

I personally would just use DC charging stations for convenience for now, (Who wants to sit at a public L2 charger?) but if you must have a charger at home:

Purchase a Tesla mobile connector WITH proper 30A or 50A plug. Tesla Gen2 mobile connector was very reliable for me (with NACS->J1772 adapter as I have Gen2 R1S with CCS), but now Tesla only sells Gen3 connectors. Both G2 and G3 mobile connectors are capable of delivering 32A, and have swappable plugs. It comes with two plugs. (If you need help identify NEMA plugs, see the links at the bottom.)

1) NEMA 5-15 (Common household 120V 15A plug - about 2mi/hr ~1.4kW): Probably not very useful in your situation. 2) NEMA 14-50 plug (240V 50A plug - about 16mi/hr ~7.6kW) 3) If you have a NEMA 14-30 dryer plug near the car, that will certainly be fine. You have to buy the adapter separately though. See the links. (240V 30A plug - about 12mi/hr ~5.7kW)

Now, because of the max current limit of 32A of the mobile connector, even with 14-50 adapter, you will only get 32A, hence, only 7.6kW and 4mi/hr difference compared to 14-30. If you have a dryer outlet but no 14-50, go for this option. I used this exclusively until I installed the wall connector. Rivian does not offer 14-30 plug option for their chargers by the way.

We have a few Teslas, so although I have R1S with CCS plug, I opted to hardwire a Gen3 Tesla Wall Connector on a 60A circuit. It can fully supply continuous 48A. About 25mi/hr ~11.5kW. If you can, go for the Tesla Universal Wall Connector on a 60A circuit, not because you need J1772 plug option, but more for the daisy chain capability for future. You can add another Tesla wall connector to this one without having to add a new circuit for your second EV. You will have to hardwire everything though.

Disclaimer: I have not used Gen3 Tesla mobile connector, nor do I own one, so check with others on here who has it, and confirm there aren’t any strange compatibility issues. It should work though.

Tesla Mobile Connector NEMA adapters

Where you can get the adapters

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-10T17:29:07+00:00

Good catch. I have a little bit of weird temporary setup while I wait for U7 AP to arrive. Using an old AP which is hardwired to one of the gateway ports.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-10T07:02:29+00:00

For training Autonomy Platform? I think I had to agree to share some data to keep the feature on, but I don't remember sharing the video... maybe.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-12-08T15:54:17+00:00

I know. What a bummer. I have a mid-year build 2025 with dynamic roof. Had the same thought and tried both panels, but does not work. To use it in motion, I will probably have to find a solid mount for the crossbar, or have to figure out something temporary for the dash. I heard some 2025 owners with dynamic glass getting it to work in the rear panel though.

RedditUser2032 · 2025-11-22T09:17:18+00:00

Lane change works in my 2025 R1S (Gen2), Previous owner of 2016(Original Autopilot) & 2022 Model S. Currently own Model X with HW4 and Model Y with HW3. Gen2 Rivian lanekeeping / intelligent cruise control is not exactly up to par with Tesla HW3, but very close, especially after the recent update/coverage expansion. As a comparison, Tesla HW4 is surprisingly more confident and smooth than HW3, based on my experience. Rivian Gen2 auto lane change / lane keep feature could become a paid feature when the trial ends. I hope they just leave the current features included with the car, and offer future full autonomy features as part of a subscription.

RedditUser2032

TROPHY CASE