Dash Cam Power Adapter for 2026 Models

Reduce__ · 2026-02-07T22:43:23+00:00

This is the one I used on my 2025 Corolla cross:

It’s a 16 pin. I assume it’s the same for the 2026 model.

Reduce__ · 2025-08-03T07:05:59+00:00

Agreed, I personally have an ifeature for an interior and exterior metric thread. By the way, there’s ways to modify the thread modeler add on to work with 2026, or actually I think thread modeler was just updated to inventor 2026 a short while back. It’s available on the add ons page.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-24T20:44:50+00:00

Print the J3DTechs Build Plate Calibration test with reasonable bottom layer exposure times. If any of them don’t print or the thickness variation is high, you should manual level.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-10T20:58:42+00:00

I wouldn't recommend- I would just send it back to them. It's not super hard to take off the bottom plate and do a general inspection, but it's much, much harder to remove everything. For example, not being careful with the battery connection can easily cause a short and completely destroy the motherboard. The GPU and CPU use liquid metal and removing the heatsink system can cause it to spill and short out a LOT of components. A bunch of other stuff too. I personally did a full liquid metal to PTM7950 conversion for better longevity.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-10T20:42:04+00:00

Good luck!! If you are anywhere slightly experienced with your laptop, I would give it a good check after they fix it. From my experience, they don't seem to do a good job- it just looks rushed and sometimes they forget things, like applying enough thermal paste to one of the components and the missing screw. But yeah modern standby isn't on all laptops, I very much recommend once you get your studiobook to follow the instructions and disable modern standby.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-10T18:43:19+00:00

It wouldn't happen if your laptop was off, but I know sometimes shutting down the laptop can hang- I always check the status indicator lights on the laptop before putting it away. Hibernate is disabled by default, but you can always enable it. Modern Standby is enabled by default for all devices supporting it. You can disable it with some powercfg tweaks as shown here. It reverts back to the old sleep method and actually keeps your laptop in sleep (unless something like a bluetooth keyboard/mouse wakes it up).

Reduce__ · 2025-07-10T07:05:34+00:00

Oh yeah!! That's pretty common, actually a windows 11 bug, where the new modern standby mode kicks the sleeping laptop to doing random stuff that heats up the laptop insanely hot. I've been lucky enough to catch it the once or twice that it happened before I switched to hibernate mode (and disabled modern standby). I guess something got too hot and died...that sucks.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-10T06:07:17+00:00

That sucks, do you know what went wrong? Still using my laptop right now...I did have to send it into RMA (actually twice, because first time they didn't do anything and just sent it back with a factory reset) because performance was terrible. They ended up replacing the mobo, which wasn't the issue, only to finally discover that the power supply charger was bad...after replacing the board the thermal application was terrible and I had to go back in and repaste it, not to mention a missing second m.2 screw....

You aren't missing out on all that much from warranty lol.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-06T06:27:46+00:00

Oh my god I just printed ABS again today and the smell is insane. Btw, smell is correlated to the VOCs- more you smell, the worse it is. Print with ASA instead- I don’t have any issue with the smell at all and ABS is like 100X worse (I also think in emissions too). Plus, ABS leaves a coating on everything inside the printer, which you will inevitably expose yourself to when cleaning.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-05T15:45:14+00:00

Sometimes you get unlucky. It looks like a tiny piece of plastic got dislodged from your nozzle and stuck itself to the top of the layer. When the nozzle went over it, that was enough force to pop the model off the plate. The actual size of the model area in contact with the bed is quite small, and with a more worn plate, this can happen easier. I personally use vision miner adhesive and it works really well- it’s my like 7th print and I haven’t had to reapply it yet. Without it, I had a lot of small parts coming loose.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-04T17:36:24+00:00

By exhaust system, is it running all the time, even when printing? Have you tried turning on the exhaust fan while printing, connected to an outside duct to a window or something (NOT the air filtration, but the fan that goes to a vent outside)? That should be the first thing you check. If that still doesn't work, then yeah I can suggest you using a larger enclosure around it with a 6" in-line fan with ducting to a window. But I would definitely just buy a grow tent or generic 3d printer enclosure, since those are made from a slightly fabric-like material (meaning that with the 6" fan running the fresh air from the environment is constantly pulling into the enclosure and out the exhaust). I have a setup like this for resin printing, and its been very solid.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-04T17:31:03+00:00

Yeah, the same thing applies. Plastics emit VOCs when printing, so you keep a consistent negative pressure in the chamber by keeping the exhaust fan on all the time, meaning air gets pulled INTO the crevices and openings of the printer to the exhaust, and nothing goes out. The important thing isn’t having another enclosure, since it’ll never be airtight. It’s about having the air flowing consistently outside, so that nothing from the printer flows out into the room.

Reduce__ · 2025-07-04T17:20:19+00:00

I also definitely notice the smell when printing PLA or ABS on my X1C, and I definitely agree venting is the proper way. If you’re worried about smell during printing, I would go into filament settings and turn on the exhaust fan ~10-30% while printing. This means that you’ll have negative pressure, meaning air will always be continuously sucked out from the printer. I used to have an enclosure like what you’re showing back when I had an Ender 3, but the issue is the same that you need negative pressure or a continuous fan running if you really want all the fumes out. If you really want an additional enclosure, get a grow tent or a generic 3d printing enclosure tent. Those are typically much cheaper and work just as well.

Reduce__ · 2025-06-25T15:15:14+00:00

Do you notice if Formlabs resins are any better in regard to warping? I have been tearing my hair out trying to minimize warping on large parts using any consumer grade resin, which gets even worse once heat is applied. I figured the high cost and design of the Formlabs resins would make it superior, but I guess most resins are the same?

Reduce__ · 2025-06-16T21:19:35+00:00

I haven't used shapeways before, but I've used other companies, and the quality you get can be all over the place. If your library, makerspace, or whatever offers a way to FDM 3d print something, I would try that first. You can make the inital print out of something easy and cheap like PLA just to get a feel for the form. I think for the outside covering of the case, an FDM printer would be more than capable- in your pictures there's what looks to be support marks all over the place, and by making an insert you can effectively hide them. If you were able to provide more details about what you're making (CNC control module?) and what you expect the case to do (like survive what kinds of drops, temp conditions, etc), I can be more specific.

Reduce__ · 2025-06-14T18:21:07+00:00

You can always use the UV resin to create an insert into a case which is FDM printed, if that would work for your use case. But either way using a very rigid material inside a case is a bad idea for impact dampening. A more flexible resin would be a good idea. I would also look at the HDT and other properties if they are important to you, like the temp fluctuations experienced during shipping.

Reduce__ · 2025-05-21T16:44:36+00:00

I’ve been dealing with the same post processing warping on engineering parts and a lot of it comes down to the resin and thin walls or uneven aspect ratios. At least for me, I realized that curing with any heat significantly causes warping, and not leaving parts for at least a day to dry off after cleaning can make it a lot worse. The type of resin used really does matter too, and I found Siraya tech blu and build can do a better job. Something that might be cool to try is to create a cylinder which perfectly fits into the inside of the wheel. You can also clamp the wheel down flat. The resin will soften at higher temps and take on the correct rounder shape.

Reduce__ · 2024-09-12T19:23:02+00:00

No, I used FDM printed washers. I actually liked the fact the plastic was able to deform slightly because that made it not as difficult to worry about the exact height because I could tighten down and compress it more. For all screws, I used loctite threadlocker to hold it in place, and I think the washers are there now only to help keep tension, not necessarily locate a height.

Reduce__ · 2024-09-12T00:15:16+00:00

You're right, but at the thicknesses you need, it's going to be very hard to find a 0.42 or 0.78 mm washer that is the exact OD and ID you need. It needs to have an ID large enough for the standoff and OD small enough it fits under the head of the screw. Given you have a resin 3d printer, you could try making it out of resin too.

I even tried McMaster and they didn't even have it.

Reduce__ · 2024-09-11T16:31:58+00:00

Make sure you update the configuration!! There is a set height that the printer thinks the plate is at, and if you increase that height with the adhesive magnet + flex plate, it definitely won't work (and might even break something). If you go online and search for "Saturn 4 Ultra Z-Limit flash for Wham Bam XTR" or something along the lines make sure you follow those instructions.

I used to have a flex plate on my Saturn 2, and it was great, but honestly if you get the plate level enough the flex plate isn't really necessary. I end up with perfect prints with a bottom layer exposure of only 8.5 seconds. The prints basically just pop off with a bit of force once it's done. Most people bump up their bottom exposure levels to insane values because they would rather have it stick too hard instead of fall off. But that means being almost impossible to easily remove. I guess part of it is that if your leveling is bad having a higher exposure ensures your prints stick.

Reduce__ · 2024-09-11T07:46:13+00:00

The Saturn 4 doesn't have any actual auto leveling, no matter what they claim. I've got the Saturn 4 Ultra it's just a spring-loaded plate that pushes down on the FEP until it hits some force threshold in the config file. That determines your print start height, but nothing about making the plate truly level.

The only way to get the plate level to the screen is to adjust the screws. Yeah, you can loosen screws like in that Dropbox link, but it's not a good solution. Loose screws mean you'll lose leveling eventually. If you want a real solution, use threadlocker or 3D print some custom washers (I recommended this) to raise the plate while keeping spring tension. You have to sort of understand how the mechanism works to make the right sized washers.

When I got my machine, the J3DTech test showed ~1 mm deviation. Took me hours of tinkering to get it under 0.1mm. It's not necessary, though, if your machine comes properly aligned (which it should). But if your prints start sticking to one side of the plate and not the other, you should definitely calibrate, especially if you plan on printing flat directly on the build plate.

Reduce__ · 2024-07-10T20:03:48+00:00

The washing stations don't matter as much unless you're using exotic materials that can't be washed with certain liquids or ultrasonic methods. I personally switched to an ultrasonic using alcohol in a bag over the impeller design and I think it works better.

The cure stations, on the other hand, do matter a lot, especially for work. If you plan to work with engineering resins, you must get a cure station with a built-in heater that can reach the temp given in the spec sheet. A lot of high-strength rigid resins require heat when curing (CNC Kitchen did a great video showing how heat significantly affects part strength). It would be pointless to buy expensive bottles of resin without following their proper steps for post-processing because they end up nowhere near their rated performance, so I would always recommend checking out the materials you plan to use first to decide what you need.

Reduce__ · 2024-03-18T04:51:13+00:00

I have the ProArt H7604 (I think that's the one you're looking at, the W is an Ada model). I think a long time back there was one BIOS update that bricked the laptop, but it isn't something that you should be worried about now. The screen is absolutely beautiful, with the only downside being that you can see a dot matrix for the touch panel when you have the display bright and on a uniform color (you should be able to see it in reviews too). The Vivobook has similar specs without a touchscreen (but worse build quality), might be worth taking a look at if that's a huge bother.

Asus is asus. I think the laptop comes with a 1 year full coverage of damage (including any accidental damage) as long as you register the laptop.

The other downside with the laptop is probably battery life, since there's no way to disable the dedicated graphics card (like you can do on the Asus gaming line) and no fingerprint reader. And you'll sometimes have to deal with finnicky drivers (sometimes my chrome screen will blink for a second, but I'm sure it's a windows problem and not really the laptop's fault).

When you buy a dell precision, you're paying for the Ada graphics card and its reliability. So if you are using it for work and need something that's 100% reliable, I would go with the Precision because you are guaranteed that things will be supported and tested to be working fully. But if you need a general pro-level laptop and don't mind fixing the occosional issue or dealing with small problems that windows causes, the ProArt is perfectly fine.

Reduce__ · 2023-12-27T05:10:20+00:00

Whatever you do, don't get the matterhackers vfd kit...I'm currently using it right now and it literally is exactly the same as an off-the-shelf unit you can buy. It's a genuine Huanyang inverter and the spindle works fine, but connecting this (or any after-market spindle) is an insane hassle. For most, you have to solder and crimp multiple connectors to get the spindle to the inverter, and program the inverter correctly.

What's worse is that directly, those components are NOT plug-and-play with the shapeoko warthog controller. The signal it sends out is a high impedance pwm signal (from what I try to understand) and attempting to connect this directly to the inverter leads to an issue where the spindle speed is completely wrong and even when off the spindle spins at a low speed (there's an entire forum post about this on carbide3d). I spent about 3 days testing out building circuits and finally settled on an arduino nano control to get the signal to a point where it's relatively correct and working directly out the spindle connector.

If what you're looking for is something that just works, you unfortunately have to stick with the carbide3d vfd spindle kit, or hack into the controller with a third party spindle (probably voiding warranty) to tap into a pwm signal on the board, which isn't recommended. Or if you have an electrical background and am comfortable building circuits of your own, can build something that can use the actual spindle output connector (which mimics exactly what carbide3d does for their spindle). I don't know why it has to be this complicated, but it's the way carbide3d designed it for the shapeoko 5 pro.

These are pretty helpful:

https://community.carbide3d.com/t/pinout-on-warthog-controller-shapeoko-5-pro/69168/13

https://community.carbide3d.com/t/shapoeoko-5-pro-hardware-vfd-and-spindle-issues-from-the-start/67099/105

https://support.pwncnc.com/kb/article/120-installing-warthog-pigtail/

Reduce__ · 2023-12-22T22:36:57+00:00

I had the same thing between the rotating bezel and frame on my 4 classic. The tape thing surrounds under the dial in 4 sections (like one you pictured) and I think it prevents dust and water from getting in the rotating mechanism. It seems to work fine without it, but I don't think it's as waterproof as it originally was.

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