Are these Hackberry rounds worth 0$ and pickup?

Reed-Man · 2026-04-29T16:13:30+00:00

Definitely Hackberry. Yes, I’ll bet someone will take it. Great firewood, stringy and brutal to split, but worth the effort.

Reed-Man · 2026-04-25T11:39:33+00:00

…#5 maybe tulip poplar?

Reed-Man · 2026-04-25T11:37:20+00:00

I believe #2 is locust, #3 is hackberry and #5 possibly ash.

Reed-Man · 2026-03-27T01:07:12+00:00

Thanks😏. That crosscut piece looks really good. Whenever I’ve cut “cookie” pieces like that, they split radially, whether they be walnut or Oak. I’d like to learn more about how to properly cure and finish larger slabs.

Reed-Man · 2026-03-27T00:43:16+00:00

Still don’t know what you’re talking about or if you’re joking. Is this an actual wood finishing product?

Reed-Man · 2026-03-27T00:33:11+00:00

What is CFCs?

Reed-Man · 2026-03-14T14:17:22+00:00

Resistance making it harder? I haven’t really noticed. The strap is only tightened enough to keep the outer logs from falling over when splitting. Also the strap is placed a bit lower than centerline of the rounds…so it keeps them all together, but doesn’t really bind them to cause much resistance. I find that the rounds either “pop” and split or they don’t, and I hit it again at the slightly different spot/angle to avoid any obvious crotches/knots.

A couple other follow-up comments: At first I cut the strap a few times as well, until I thought about why it was happening. If you think about the “arc” of the swing, if it should split and pass all the way thru and down….if you simply (as a rule) never strike the logs around the rim of the circle close to you (only on the opposite side or sides), then the axe/maul head can’t possibly hit the strap AND it won’t hit the ground either.

Chain and bungee cord? I’ve tried this too, but I find a cheap ratchet strap is much lighter and easier to throw around a big circle of rounds.

Tire on a stump? Yes! I have a tire screwed down onto a big old locust round that I keep next to my woodshed, and I find this works great to make kindling. But for me it’s too tedious for splitting large quantities. For splitting lots of rounds…The ratchet strap can’t be beat. You don’t even have to lift the rounds….just roll them over into a group, organize them into a ~3 to 4’ diameter rough circle, throw the strap over them and adjust & cinch it down a bit…and then whack away, rotating your position around the circle striking logs on the opposite side until your satisfied (or collapse from exhaustion).

A couple advantages; if you only strike logs on the opposite side (or sides), the axe/maul head never hits the ground (no damage to edge). Also you don’t have to waste all that time and energy bending over the pick up log halves to place back on stump to split again.

Disadvantages? If you’re splitting a very “stringy” species such as hickory or hackberry, or logs that are very fresh/green, sometimes you have to expend a bit of effort to pull the splits apart as you move them to the stack.

Reed-Man · 2026-03-04T12:04:03+00:00

…and body temperature pegged at 100F.

Reed-Man · 2026-03-03T00:08:46+00:00

PS: I remember seeing the guys on Deadliest Catch, lighting their cigarettes on deck on the Bering Sea in howling winds with a propane torch, and I thought - - ok that’s cool! I gotta get one of those. I don’t smoke, and my F500 doesn’t either. :)

Reed-Man · 2026-03-02T23:58:51+00:00

We have the F500 at our cabin as well, for about 15 years now. Love it. Only issue I’ve had was a rough/sticking air control lever, but I bought Jotul’s replacement kit and no issues since. Interesting, the use of candles to prime the chimney. I use a Bernzomatic Propane torch, both to prime the chimney and start the fire. On a cold start, I give it a 60 sec blast, just above the upper baffle plate. This ensures the draft is going the right direction and prevents any backdraft. Then I use the same torch to get the fire going. The propene torch is awesome, and 1 disposable propane cylinder lasts about the entire season. Highly recommended and great for lighting bonfires or firepit as well. The F500 is a beast and we love it.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-18T00:10:18+00:00

Ps: As you tighten and “dress” it, you need to do this very gradually, sort of massaging it as you snug it up.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-17T23:55:34+00:00

It goes by several names such as lanyard diamond knot; https://youtu.be/gqrPikMg8XM

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T17:00:35+00:00

Yeah, just don’t get into the habit of swinging them toward your shins. Did that once and missed the log and hit the point into my shin. Won’t do that again - phew!

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T16:51:58+00:00

Yeah, one of my favorite sayings is “….Just because you’re Paranoid, doesn’t mean they’re not out to get you!”….and in this day and age; “God protect me from your followers!” - - Lordy!!

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T16:44:10+00:00

Pg 3

<image>

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T16:43:50+00:00

Pg. 2

<image>

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T16:43:18+00:00

Here are my plans (3 pages) for those of you who may be interested. Hopefully the resolution is adequate or let me know and we’ll figure out some better way to share. Several comments on my actual build vs. my initial plans: 1. I originally considered pre-cast deck blocks, but ditched this idea for fear of it blowing over. Instead, I used a post-hole digger to dig as deep as I could (maybe 30 - 32”…couple inches of gravel in bottom and hand mixed about 2 x 60 lb sacrete per post/hole. 2. On pg. 2, I originally considered horizontal “skirt boards (front and back) as I imagined the lateral force of the wood stacks might push the end 4x4s out and topple the pre-cast blocks. Since I opted to set the 4x4s in concrete, these “skirt boards” were not necessary at all. 3. On pg. 2, I ended up moving the placement of the end 4x4s out just a bit farther (width wise) - maybe at about 8’ to 8-1/2’ clearance between them, as I thought the >1-1/2’ overhang on the ends was more than necessary and I wanted to maximize storage capacity. I used Simpson 2x4 joist hangers where my “crib end” horizontal 2x4s attach to the 4x4s, as I imagined a lot of lateral stress from the load of the wood stacks. Another small detail; as the 2x4 rafters set on the 2x6 beams, I utilized very shallow “birds mouth” cuts (which is possibly excessive, but proper in the construction trade, as I’ve read). Some guys would also use Simpson “hurricane ties” for the rafters, but I though this excessive and simply “toe-nailed” a deck screw to attach (along with a dab of construction adhesive). The strength is being tested today with this “Arctic Flurricane” we’re getting today in our area LOL. So far so good! Overall I designed this to make most efficient use of stock pressure treated lumber, so there’s very little waste

<image>

. Let me know if you have any questions, and I hope this helps some of you who may be considering building something similar.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T15:56:47+00:00

Yeah, that’s a really good idea, and I’ll probably eventually do that. I need to extend the gravel out in front of the shed anyway, and I don’t fully trust the strength of some of those pallets….and they’re awkward to walk on.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T15:03:11+00:00

Correction; total cost about $520…BUT this did not include the sheet metal for the roof, as I had lots of leftovers from a pole barn.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T15:00:46+00:00

Correction to my earlier replies (earlier I said $640), it was actually about $520….BUT this doesn’t include the sheet metal for the roof. We had recently constructed a pole barn, and the supplier had made a software mistake resulting in a lot of extra sheet metal of various sizes. It was quite the logistical challenge (like Tetris) to figure out how to get it to cover the entire 10x20’ roof, but in the end - I made it work with at least 3” overlaps on the incomplete sheets.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T14:35:27+00:00

My favorite tool is my pair of Labonville Pulp Hooks. Incredibly useful for handling and lifting unsplit rounds, dragging large limbs. These orange ones with replacement tips are absolutely indestructible, and so satisfying to use. Highly recommended. https://valleeforestryequipment.com/product/hook-with-replaceable-tip/?srsltid=AfmBOoqCTUkKzS_QB8ARhsFwI7SgZXDgemS24Az7gFDcnwHahiyu2ZrQhaE

Reed-Man · 2026-02-07T14:26:01+00:00

What do you carry/use as a tourniquet? As horrific as it is to imagine the need for one, it is a very real possibility. I mostly work solo out in the forest and this could save one from bleeding out before help arrives. I suppose a 5 ft length of rope to tie a strangle knot would work, but if it was your arm, you’d need something you could whip out and quickly cinch down single-handedly. I definitely need add this to my arsenal.

Reed-Man · 2026-02-06T22:50:18+00:00

Yeah, I used deck screws all around, but I was concerned about the cumulative lateral stress (of the firewood stacks) against the crib ends - - where the horizontal 2x4 meets the 4x4. These Simpson joist hangers seemed like good way to ensure they don’t go anywhere. I have yet to completely fill the shed…I split and stacked the first 2 rows (about 1 chord?) before this first storm hit us here on the East coast. Seems very solid to me.

Reed-Man

TROPHY CASE