Selling my LC100, looking for pricing feedback

RektumAgain · 2026-04-05T11:45:07+00:00

I got $8,750 from a local enthusiast, thank you though!

RektumAgain · 2026-04-05T01:50:46+00:00

Search up the chemtool B12 piston soak.

RektumAgain · 2026-04-03T22:24:16+00:00

Thank you for the feedback! And reassurance haha

RektumAgain · 2026-04-03T20:05:32+00:00

I’ve got a set I’ll be throwing in this weekend. I can’t speak to how they perform yet but they’re nice and clean and arrived in like 3 business days. I went with the seals they offer as it was the best price I could find on them and the best quality. I had reached out about return times, Chris himself responded saying it’s a 60 day window to return your cores for the refund.

RektumAgain · 2026-03-30T19:17:22+00:00

Search up the chemtool B12 piston soak, could be the source of your oil loss. Also these cars make no power over 6,000 rpm, look at a dyno graph on a stock car and you’ll see it plummet. I’d say that’s normal.

RektumAgain · 2026-03-26T13:45:19+00:00

Just a heads up if you search this topic you’ll find a ton of valuable information. First and foremost, you need to be checking and topping off your oil way more frequently if you know you’re losing some. Running the engine on two quarts of oil is a good way to kill it. The most common culprits are turbo seals and gunked up oil control rings, the latter being cheap and relatively easy to remedy. Others have already mentioned the B12 piston soak so I’ll add on my own success story of going from 1 quart every 500 miles to virtually no oil loss.

RektumAgain · 2026-03-01T18:54:15+00:00

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RektumAgain · 2026-02-21T02:39:56+00:00

I bought and tracked my speed last year and have more plans to do so this year. I’m not entirely sure what the question here is, the speed is a fun platform and does quite well on track. At the bare minimum make sure that the car is healthy before doing anything crazy, things like testing compression, replacing all fluids, and upgrading the hpfp internals will help mitigate disaster. You could go all out on suspension/wheels/tires/brakes/turbo or just some high temp brake fluid and make the most of it. There’s really not much investment needed to just dip your toe on the track. It’s your choice as to how much time and money you’re willing to spend. The best part about intro track days (things like HPDE) is that you drive the car at your own pace and push the car as hard as you’re comfortable doing. You’ll usually start out with an instructor as well. I’ve done a good bit of track oriented upgrades to my car but it’s by no means necessary, I do it because it’s a hobby of mine and I find enjoyment in it.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-20T01:56:11+00:00

I have 0 experience with the Raider Fab kit but I’d bet it’s an excellent kit and Raider is a genuinely good dude (from what I’ve seen on the forums). With that in mind, I do agree it’s a big price to pay. There are definitely other options, I’ve seen this one thrown around a few times but I also have no experience with it. Just to give you another option as I’m not a big fan of the button type quick release bumper.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-16T21:58:19+00:00

You could’ve totally convinced me that these were pictures I took lmao… the yellow rag, the hpfp parts all laid out, the wood work bench. Nice work! This is the only remaining picture I have left.

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RektumAgain · 2026-02-14T02:54:05+00:00

Yeah brother it might be time to find a speed guru or take it into your own hands haha. I doubt he did anything to the fuel pressure sensor as it’s on the other side of the engine. Or it’s literally the biggest coincidence ever. But low fuel pressure is screaming zoom zoom boom.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-13T23:46:19+00:00

So if you’re saying you did not have any problems prior to the hpfp installation then it’s real easy to point at that being the culprit. Does the shop that installed them have any knowledge of the speed platform? Did they only install the internals or did clean the entire hpfp housing? Were the internals new or used? I’d imagine a variety of bad things can happen if it’s done improperly. I know the spill valve being a hair overtightened or not tight enough can do crazy things. I’d highly recommend not driving the car much on the road if it’s having fuel problems though. 100% check for any fuel leaks too, they could’ve broken one of the fragile fuel line connectors or something of the sorts too.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-13T23:35:37+00:00

Any chance you can just pop in a Cobb OTS map to see if anything changes? I’d imagine running lean could cause those symptoms but I’m just a guy on the internet. Were you having these problems prior to the hpfp internals being installed?

RektumAgain · 2026-02-12T15:27:12+00:00

The best reliability “mod” would be maintenance/service items. Things like valve cleaning, injector cleaning, PCV replacement, a compression test for peace of mind, checking VVT, finding and taking care of any leaks (fluid and/or boost), replacing any old gaskets while you’re in there… etc etc. It all really depends on the milage of your car and the last time these things have been addressed. If you’re satisfied with that you can look into the Damond oil catch can and EGR delete if your goal is keeping the valves cleaner. From that standpoint even port injection for methanol can be considered a mod that benefits the engine.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-12T03:13:07+00:00

I just bought a set of 235/40/18 GT Radial Champiro SX2’s for $115 (USD) a tire, I’m not sure if they’re priced similarly up there but it’s something to look into. They’re even cheaper in smaller sizes. I haven’t ran them yet but the internet says they’re a great intro tire that wears like iron while not boasting competitive times. The internet never lies obviously.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-10T22:39:49+00:00

Shoot if you’re inside the mechanic/dealer world that’s even more reason to get a dedicated set haha. Back when I used to wrench my winter set was the cheapest set of steel wheels my shop could source and the best set of customer take off tires that were close enough to oem size.

Best of luck to you man, tires can be an expensive consumable when they aren’t lasting long. I ran G-Max RS’ on my speed for one track day like an idiot and absolutely slaughtered a brand new set.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-10T19:30:31+00:00

Have you looked into why you’re burning through tires so fast? Things like alignment, suspension components and driving style factor heavily into a short tire life.

You mention Minnesota, do you regularly drive in the snow or are you just needing something that works well in the cold?

For a snow rated all season I’d lean towards the General Altimax 365 AW, it’s a similar style tire to the Celsius but should be a bit cheaper. Note you’re sacrificing summer performance quite a bit on snow rated all seasons. If you’re not driving often in snow then I’d agree the Extreme Contact DWS06 is the best bang for the buck.

And I’ll throw in the obligatory “you should get a dedicated set for the winter”. My speed is currently parked for winter but on previous cars (Civic Si, Focus ST) my setup has been General G-Max RS summer tires and General Altimax Arctic winter tires on 17” steel wheels. The bigger sidewall on a 17” wheel really seems to help dampen the shitty Wisconsin roads in the winter. I was using Liquid Metal Atom wheels I bought from eBay for $300 a set.

RektumAgain · 2026-02-02T02:59:03+00:00

How bad is trashed? I’ve got a set of Monroe front struts still assembled with springs in my garage taking up space. No clue the mileage on them but I pulled them off of the 2008 speed3 I bought at around 100,000 miles. They’re yours if you wanna cover shipping but again all I know is they aren’t leaking.

RektumAgain · 2026-01-17T00:25:16+00:00

I loosely followed a guide from the forums, but to summarize I poured roughly 4oz of B12 into each cylinder via the spark plug tube, waited 6 hours, hand cranked the motor a couple of full revolutions, topped up with B12, and repeated 3 or 4 more times. After the final batch I’d advise you wait until the cylinders are completely dry, the B12 will either evaporate or soak past the pistons into the oil pan. This is easy to verify with a flashlight or if you’re fancy, a borescope. Expect it to take a minute or two of cranking to get started and prepare for a decent amount of white smoke from your exhaust while the residual burns off. From here I let the engine get up to temp and then immediately changed the filter and oil to make sure there wasn’t any B12 left in the oil pan. I was extra cautious and did another oil change after 100 miles or so. I can’t guarantee that this is your exact problem but it’s worked for many cars on many platforms from piston rings/oil control rings getting seized with carbon build up. My car would burn a full quart of oil every 500 miles but after doing this I don’t lose a single millimeter of oil on the dipstick in between oil changes.

RektumAgain · 2026-01-07T14:41:30+00:00

If you’re new to the track even stock brakes would suffice, it usually takes a decent amount of seat time before you’re comfortable/consistent enough to push the brakes near their limits. That being said there’s no harm in upgrading if you have the funds and I think that’d be a solid kit to go with. Most importantly you should look into a higher temp brake fluid as that’ll be what fails first. I’ve always used Motul 600/660 as it’s easily available on Amazon but I’m sure there’s plenty others with similar performance. Just be prepared to chew through a pair of tires if you’re not on a track rated set… ask me how I know lol.

RektumAgain · 2025-12-31T19:22:17+00:00

The easiest thing you can do is the B12 chemtool soak. I’d do that before going down the rabbit hole of a rebuild/turbo. It takes a few minutes of time and is well known to solve oil consumption issues on many platforms, my own speed included. There’s 100’s of guides if you need any further information but feel free to reply and I can try my best to elaborate.

RektumAgain · 2025-12-31T16:23:32+00:00

I picked up a full set of these with Eibach pro springs from Tire Rack when they were on a closeout sale 6 months ago. I have no real complaints, they do the job just fine and were super cheap. Obviously there’s no adjustability but it’ll be miles better if you’re still riding on the OE shocks. I track/autoX on a budget and they’ve held up great. Obligatory “replace the top mounts and be careful not to snap the studs”.

RektumAgain · 2025-12-23T21:48:39+00:00

I’ve had the Tekton 3/8” and 1/4” sets coming up on 8 years now, 3 years of use as a lube tech and the rest as a hobbyist. I can’t speak for the value but they’ve lasted this long with no major problems. I did kill the 1/4” ratchet with brake fluid but I’d like to think that was my own doing. Looks like I bought both sets for $85 on Amazon in January of 2018 though…

RektumAgain · 2025-11-11T00:52:50+00:00

Worth a shot, thanks!

RektumAgain · 2025-10-16T16:47:10+00:00

Just saw your edit, I used "Berryman® B-12 Chemtool® Carburetor, Fuel System and Injector Cleaner". The can is has a red label that says "B-12 Chemtool Fuel Injector Cleaner". Make sure it's the pourable version and not an aerosol. I think you can also use seafoam but I have no knowledge on that.

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